F1roddo

Looks great Mickie. That motor looks so small in there mate, job well done.

Lets go guys, here's your chance to be the first to get a great new hull, super deal on price, set it up the way you want and get it on the water ready to rock!!!

If I had the funds available, I would.

Cheers
Chris

mickieb49

  Thanks Chris,  i have found a way to get some running gear for his hull, so hopefully will have one running with twin s520's within the next month or two  time permitting......
  I will have a few more hulls built soon and am intending on getting them shipped around to a few clubs to get some feedback there ,   I know there are a few people out there that will not buy a hull when it's not proven, this i am trying to rectify.  I am not trying to push the scale wheelbarrow nor am i trying to provide a $1000 quality boat, but one that will allow people with a more realistic budget a chance to get a big cat hull, naturally there are alot of scheptics , time will tell....

 Thanks for the support thus far, and keep posted as i WILL have one up and running in the very near future.
Mick

mickieb49

Engines, clutches, mounts, struts, rudder, shafts, exhausts all just ordered....., cleaned out the bank account but hey it is no good in there anyhow.
 So i will continue this thread with the fitout and running very soon.
  FYI,  i will have one of these hulls down Sheparton October long weekend for those interested on having a geezer.
Regards Mick

bentley marshall

I bet that wansnt cheep !!!!! ...cheeper engine is the 39cc blata clone engines (pocket bike engine) ...can get big bore kits for them too bring them up to 50cc ...

tey should fit in ya spoons no probelm ...

mickieb49

Yep you are right it  ain't cheap to set up twin S520's ,but they also have contra rotating abilities too, didn't think the Blata do that.  I think it is well worth the expense.
   When you think the rest was dear, then you have to put $160 worth of props on the back....Aww well whats a few more $,  
  I was going to paint the hull first now i think i will wait till the first runs, knowing my luck i will put it up the bank , I am still going to paint it though.
regards Mick

F1roddo

Yes, yes, Mickie......... set it up and run it first buddy, then paint it when its all done and run. Looking forward to seeing how those 520's fit in the sponsons, think there will be plenty of room for sure.

When this thing is finished and tunned, it is going to absolutely fly!!!!

Looking forward to your build buddy.

Cheers
Chris

mickieb49

Gee thanks Chris, just ordered the Exhausts, 4 of everything ain't cheap.....
Here are some pictures of the next hull out of the mold, bulkhead is in so are the Transom doublers, just have to stuff as many pool noodles in the nose, give the join a sand then polish the whole thing up. This one is going down to Sheparton
Nearly got the paint scheme all sorted, just need to purchase all the materials then it's BUILD'N time

Cheers all
Mick

mickieb49

Well alot of the main parts have arrived, only waiting for the Manifolds and headers and props to arrive then i am away, but that shouldn't stop the build finally start to progress.
I have use RCMK Hydrolift parts for the majourity as that is what i was basing alot of my initial measurements from.
The S520's sit in there nice, we will see how the exhausts can muck that up????

Cheers Mick

bentley marshall

looks good mick even those twins look small in there

BlueWave

Cool, I have been following since day one. Can I ask I notice from the pics where will the rudder arms mount?

great build!

adam

martno1fan

Hi Mick looks good so far,looks like your using a lot of csm in you build? id be inclined to use less of that and go for a biaxial cloth instead of the twill cloths as its much stronger but also cheaper.If you go for that layup then you will shave off a lot of the weight in your build.For an example i use one thin layer of matt about 300 g then 450-600 g biaxial cloth this gives a bullet proof hull,also rather than use wood in the transoms use coremat then biaxial cloth then carbon in that order and you will save weight again.Like i say looks good but i can see theres a lot of extra weight in there thats not needed,also for the seems use 2-3" tape its much neater and a cleaner look i know its not easy to get down in there but it is doable.Hope you dont mind me offering advice just trying to make things easier for you.Also in the pics you will see i used biaxial carbon too,this stuff cuts great and keeps nice and neat with not much fraying as it has a thread running along holding it in place,its also very strong,i use 450g thickness,nice and thick and lays very well and much easier to work with than twills,not quite as pretty but more practical i think.
Mart

mickieb49

Ok Thanks Mart,  i was contemplating using Biaxial cloth , just never have had much experience with the stuff where i have been building with CSM for about 20 years and have had great results,  am thinking though on putting some carbon around the engines and across the tunnel and around the transom though.
  I guess the reason i use wood in the transom area is because that is pretty much all i can get, saying that i may have to investigate a little further with my fiberglass supplier.
  I'm not too sure i can shave too much more weight off as this hull already weights 6.2kg,  and with the twins in there i don't think weight will really be an issue, but point taken.  It is much easier to add weight than remove it.

 I appreciate the input and am by no means shunning it, it what helps make me a better builder in the end.

Regards Mick

martno1fan

Once you have tried the biaxial cloth you will wonder why you havent used it before,it is so easy to use,no fraying like with twills which can be a nightmare for hand layups.Just cut it to size and lay it in the hull and it is so easy to manipulate even arround odd shapes,a small cut here and there and you will find it goes where you need it to,in fact what i do is cut it before i even lay the gelcoat,take it and cut it to shape and lay inside the mould and manipulate it and make the cuts needed then its ready to use when your ready.The threads that go through it are elastic which allows the cloth to stretch enough to shapes better,its also very strong.You will find that the hulls will be so stiff theyre hard to twist ,you wont believe the difference between biaxial and twill cloths when it comes to stiffness.
Mart

mickieb49

Ok , i think you may have convinced me to give it a try,  building a 49" F1 next so that may just  have to be the guinea pig!   or the next hull out of this mold? 
Regards Mick

Hesco Racing

Are they counter rotating motors? Also think you should swap them around keep the pipes in the middle

Cobus

mickieb49

Hi Cobus, yep they are Contrarotating, but to get the props rotating outward the carby's have to be on the inside, will involve some interesting routing for the exhausts. Shame because the motors fit better with the carby's outbd.
Mick

Hesco Racing

I would sacrifice function over form. Are you planning on racing the boat or running for fun. I am sure the difference would not be so significant.

Cobus

Pat Kinney

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Micki,
Set the motors up as counter rotating. Turn the cylinders around so the carburators are to the outside. Check with Gizmo (Bruce), but if I remember correctly this will work and allow the exhausts to be to the center. Should take 4 gaskets and maybe a little grinding.

Pat

mickieb49

Thanks for the input guy's , i am going to try to keep the exhausts on the outside, i know many of people have done just what you said pat,  i had the idea of doing it this way when i started the build.  But will give Bruce at Gizmo's to see if turning the cylinders around works too.
  Because i was going to try to have the exhausts on the outside i now have to wait for the header pipes and manifolds to arrive before i can glass in the engine mounts.

  One thing i missed was the Brass tubing for the drive shafts,  anyone know of a good shop to get the good quality thick brass tubing?  Link maybe?

Cheers Mick

martno1fan

You dont need thick brass tubing you want thin walled tubing ,5/16 diam is what most use.
Mart

Hesco Racing

As Martin says 5/16 and if you want to go a bit thicker add the next size up K&S tubing, it fits perfectly over it. Warm them up separate and quench before bending them together.

Cobus

mickieb49

So you think that there is not much diference between Rotating outwards and rotating inwards? i thought that outward rotating props was a more stable boat especially in the turns?
Checked with Bruce at Gizmo's and he said you can rotate the cylinders but need to do some mods to the transfer ports.
I am thinking if there is no real difference between the rotations that i will go for the inward rotations as i will be alot easier. Even though the other way has room to do that too.
Mick

martno1fan

It made a night and day difference to the Apache she went from a wild ride to a stable fast boat even on the sea,id ask someone who has experience with large cats what they think before you decide what to do.
Mart

mistycreekboats

My Feedback: (1)

Matho already said which way - (on the counter rotating post) and you don't get much more experience than him with big boats

Randy

mickieb49

Hi it's been a while since my last update but here is some progress, my headers finally arrived, have to get them modified slightly to aid fitment of the pipes, it is all go ahead now as i have most of the parts to get this baby happening.
Not much room now with the exhausts in.
Mick