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  1. #1

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    49" GAS F1 OUTBOARD TUNNEL BUILD

    Hi guy's , just thought i'd share the latest moulding project.
    It is a 49" long Gas F1 tunnel hull specifically designed for an outboard only, this was based from a set of Jerry Dunlaps plans just embigginated ! and have put a differrent style cowl, i am not trying to be pretentious by putting a scale like cowl on what is not a scale hull, so here it is.
    Length : 49"
    Width: 21"
    Tunnel width: 11 1/4"
    Sponson Height: 4"

    The pictures you see are of the plug, i will be making a mold in the comming weeks, testing will be then soon after. I am using a Lawless leg and a RCMK SX-254.
    Coments welcome
    Thanks for looking
    Mick
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  2. #2

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    RE: 49

    Looking good Mick!!

  3. #3

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    RE: 49

    .Mick, finish off the cat, lol
    You have to many projects going on mick.
    Keep up the good work Mick

  4. #4

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    RE: 49

    Hope you are not taking her into the rough stuff tunnel looks a little on the shallow side? Will be a great flat water boat.

    Cobus

  5. #5

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    RE: 49

    Hi , thanks for the input guy's, Cobus, it is deeper than you think, but not having any other hulls to compare , it may seem shallower than the other tunnels, i can actually fir a whole pool noodle in each sponson without shaping  or cutting them down.
        I actually plan on pulling the mold for this within the next week or so so when the first one comes out of the mold we will see.
    Yes Peter i am also working on the cat.
    Mick

  6. #6

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    RE: 49

    LOL, Mick, I just wanted to nudge you along.[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]

  7. #7
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    RE: 49

    I think Cobus was refering to the tunnel depth ie distance between tunnel floor and sponson ride surfaces,it does look shallow,waves will be hitting the tunnel floor causing her to bump arround not good in anyhting other than flat water.
    Mart
    Waveridermouldings,Manufacturer of quality race proven Hulls.

  8. #8

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    RE: 49

    Our 47" tunnel has a 65mm tunnel height in the back and 80mm in the front. Runs over 8" swells without even blinking. Turns at full speed. and yes our sponson is not much thicker than yours a pool noodle just fits in it.


    Cobus
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  9. #9

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    RE: 49

    Ok, i have got 40mm at the back and 55 at the front,  i can see your point,  aw well it is a little too late now for this hull, maybe the next? 
      The main reason why i started this build was i had trouble getting a hull here at a reasonable price, everyone wasn't going to post anything over the 43" mark internationally,  i tried to get a Zippkits illusion tunnel from the USA and they refused to send it to me, and our dealer here didn't have any in stock.
      Mark Jordan's hulls were meant for an inboard, which was no good as i already had a Leg.
     So now i will have a mold for one and if proved i will am happy to lay some more up to who ever likes the hull enough to buy one? 
    Regards Mick

  10. #10
    martno1fan's Avatar
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    RE: 49

    You could add a fillet to the existing mould youve made this will give you a hull with a deeper tunnel then just remould from the new part.
    Mart
    Waveridermouldings,Manufacturer of quality race proven Hulls.

  11. #11

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    RE: 49

    A general fix done on the nitro boats is adding stumble blocks in the tunnel in the front. It seems to help the guys out of trouble. O and the illusion I could be wrong but the tunnel is also very shallow. And add some gates to the top of the tunnel. Looking at the deck the aerodynamic center is close to the cg if not a bit behind. She is going to be flighty and fast in the flat stuff.


    Cobus

  12. #12

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    RE: 49

    Hi, when you say "Gates" i assume you mean the fins than run longways from the front of each sponson aft ?
     I wasn't going to put stumbling blocks in place until i have run it , as it is easier to add than remove when you have the mold.   I was going to add a 1L gas bag in the nose when i join the deck and bottom half to help with c of g , after reading thie Gas outboard thread this was one thing i have come accross that is needed?  
       Got a little more sanding to do then it's onto the primer /polish like mad /   make the flange,  then molding shall begin.
    Thanks heaps for the input guy's  it is very much appreciated.
    Mick

  13. #13

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    RE: 49

    I would not use a bag in the nose for ballast. Once you have the hull and deck lay and fit all you can even if you have to tape the hull and deck together. Then mark the cg and check how much you have to ad in the front. I would guess from your size about 200 grams would do. Remember your boat is between 4 to 5 inches longer than most of the boats talked about on the outboard forum. More boat means weight forward of the cg line. Then once you have how much you must add layup some more matting in the nose to strengthen it. When you have a coming together with another boat the nose is the part that suffers most of the time. So if you must ad weight use it this way. Make up your battery pack by removing a battery from the 7.2volt car packs That way you gain some ballast weight as well as longer battery life for the 1/4 scale servos you are using. the sub C cell gives 6 volt longer than AA batteries (of the same mAh).

    Just my 2 cents

    Cobus

  14. #14
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    RE: 49

    The 7.2 v hump pack should be fine for powering his servos ive been using one for 5 years works exellent.
    Waveridermouldings,Manufacturer of quality race proven Hulls.

  15. #15

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    RE: 49

    Thanks guy's, i will do just as you mentioned,   it may be a while before it get to that, specially scent it is the festive season, but  am hoping it will be weeks and not months.
    Regards Mick

  16. #16
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    RE: 49

    my tunnel hull, so far
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  17. #17

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    RE: 49


    ORIGINAL: sharpy022

    my tunnel hull, so far

    Nice lines you have there, just wondering though, have you put the pivot line for the outboard inline with the transome? just i have heard that they don't perform that well if it isn't? Anyone care to chime in ?

    Mine is nearly ready for primer/molding shuld be a week or so away?
    Regards Mick


  18. #18

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    RE: 49

    Hi All, just thought i'd chime in on the progress of the mold. It is done, just have to buff it back up before i can pull the first hull out . Will not be for a few weeks as i have to move house but hopefully will not be a long drawn out build from then.
    Regards Mick
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  19. #19

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    RE: 49

    Ok guy's, sorry for the delay, but have just got back into boats after moving house and building the man cave.
    First hull is out of the mold, turned out pretty well considering i am just a amateur ,
    Besides that, i need to figure out the radio box next before i can join the halves, hoping to be doing this on the weekend????
    Cheers for now
    Mick
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  20. #20
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    RE: 49

    Mick,
    Looks good, lots of blue pva there, see you on Sunday

    Cheers
    Remember, Always look after the ORGANIC part of the model

  21. #21

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    RE: 49



    just a Quick update, hull is joined and painted, thought i'd add a few other pictures of some Airbrushing that i did.
    Regards Mick

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  22. #22
    The Ghost's Avatar
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    RE: 49

    Mick, They are looking good, when are they going to be finished

    Cheers
    Remember, Always look after the ORGANIC part of the model


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