48" X cat design and build
04-21-2014, 02:55 AM
#102
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Cheers 1wes
thats a question i cant answer without testing it fully and setup and GPS run ,my boats are not designed for all out speed but handling aswell
thats a question i cant answer without testing it fully and setup and GPS run ,my boats are not designed for all out speed but handling aswell
05-17-2014, 10:47 PM
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05-18-2014, 09:42 AM
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runs fine in the chop jumping off the wake bit of a difference LOL,just gunned it and let it go haha
the 1 on the website is 38" and runs really well ,especially now getting to the nitro setup and tuning
05-19-2014, 10:04 AM
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05-19-2014, 12:17 PM
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Hi Bud
thats the course they laid out
I could of opened it up more but with the wind and running in new engine in i was concentrating more on keeping it on the water and running and getting the laps in LOL
My son races the 38" and came 2nd so good day for us both and my design builds
thats the course they laid out
I could of opened it up more but with the wind and running in new engine in i was concentrating more on keeping it on the water and running and getting the laps in LOL
My son races the 38" and came 2nd so good day for us both and my design builds
05-21-2014, 09:02 PM
#112
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IS the course short so you guys can not get up to speed? Looked like no one was ever over 35-40mph. That must be painful to run that slow. Boat will only come alive at the 50mph mark.
Cobus
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05-21-2014, 10:53 PM
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Mart
05-22-2014, 02:35 AM
#114
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Hi Cobus
Thats how they laid the course out,the course is for all classes from small nitros to the gas boat classes maybe thats why they do it
I could of pushed faster but a few factors ,breaking in brand new engine and running rich ,setting up the boat and getting the feel for it and see how it handles ,there was also the cross wind which at times was blustery
The main goal was get and keep it on the water, break the the engine in and points on the table
Its awkward at mo as the lake i was using for testing is no longer available as theyve turned it into nature reserve and fishing pool
Iv got a couple of options im looking at for new water for testing instead of trying to do it at the race meetings
Thats how they laid the course out,the course is for all classes from small nitros to the gas boat classes maybe thats why they do it
I could of pushed faster but a few factors ,breaking in brand new engine and running rich ,setting up the boat and getting the feel for it and see how it handles ,there was also the cross wind which at times was blustery
The main goal was get and keep it on the water, break the the engine in and points on the table
Its awkward at mo as the lake i was using for testing is no longer available as theyve turned it into nature reserve and fishing pool
Iv got a couple of options im looking at for new water for testing instead of trying to do it at the race meetings
05-22-2014, 07:28 AM
#116
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Thanks Steve
Its quite costly shipping your way and the $ against £ aint great (for you guys) at the minute
Got this pic emailed to me of it in action
Its quite costly shipping your way and the $ against £ aint great (for you guys) at the minute
Got this pic emailed to me of it in action
05-26-2014, 09:34 PM
#117
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An observation. In the photo showing the new ball link on the rudder, you have the cap head fitted with the head above the brass ball. From my experience, generally the head is a smaller diameter than that of the brass ball or the corresponding hole in the nylon part of the ball link. Under extreme loads or after some wear, there is the "chance" the nylon part will pop off the brass ball, passing over the head of the cap screw and float free. Result, no control to rudder!!!!
A very simple way to take care of this is to use a large O/D washer under the head of the caphead that effectivley "traps" the entire ball link assy in place. The O/D should be larger than the hole in the nylon part by say 1mm all round (therefore 2mm in dia) This simply makes it 100% impossible for a "pop off" Security for the price of a washer!!!
A very simple way to take care of this is to use a large O/D washer under the head of the caphead that effectivley "traps" the entire ball link assy in place. The O/D should be larger than the hole in the nylon part by say 1mm all round (therefore 2mm in dia) This simply makes it 100% impossible for a "pop off" Security for the price of a washer!!!
Last edited by nick.henderson; 05-26-2014 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Last comment added.
05-28-2014, 12:51 AM
#119
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I don't disagree with Nick but heck in 8 years of racing I have never had a ball joint pop off. When it is so worn that it will pop off your should have replaced it long ago. Also like the black ball joints http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFPW8&P=M they have a easy off side. Always mount them easy off to the bottom. Have to use a prybar to get that sucker off.
Cobus
Cobus
05-28-2014, 01:29 AM
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Lol Cobus
Iv started doing the jobs and looked at the ball link,it won't pass the head of the bolt anyways if it did come loose or pop off so no worries there
Iv started doing the jobs and looked at the ball link,it won't pass the head of the bolt anyways if it did come loose or pop off so no worries there
06-01-2014, 12:11 PM
#121
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Hi all another from todays running started leaning out and pushing it abit more ,wow this thing is awesome to drive and so much fun with still more to come from it and abit more setting up
Sorry about vid quality
http://youtu.be/CPEqr0S8zSA
Sorry about vid quality
http://youtu.be/CPEqr0S8zSA
09-25-2014, 07:41 AM
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09-25-2014, 11:02 PM
#125
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Cheers SS
problem is bigger stretch of water ,but hes super happy with it so far ,he going to be testing some props on next run so will how he gets on
problem is bigger stretch of water ,but hes super happy with it so far ,he going to be testing some props on next run so will how he gets on