jdmartin

I just picked up a mint PB 1/8 Gas Hydro from my LHS, minus the motor and drive system. I want to build this boat up and present it to my grandson for his birthday. Obviously no problem locating a new Zenoah G26PUM motor, but I'm striking out trying to locate the flex drive system (part number PRB2265 and the collet PRB2263.

Does anyone here have any ideas as to where I might be able to locate one? Ebay searches are futile, as well as numerous online parts houses.

Thank you...

Jim

Hydro Junkie

Aeromarine Laminates would have the parts you need. While they're not Pro Boat parts per se, you just have to cut the cable to length The website is down at the moment for maintenance, but when it comes up, here is the address:
http://www.aeromarinerc.com

jdmartin

Thank you very much for the reply. Ihad tried their site a few days ago, and noticed it was down at that time also.

Sure hope the maintenance outage doesn't last too long!

tapkoote

WareHouse Hobbies has cables and hardware also
http://www.whobbies.com/

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Just don't buy the Zenoah from ProBoat as you can get it a lot cheaper elsewhere. www.gizmomotors.com has one of the best prices around for one. He also carries everything else that you may need.

jdmartin

Thank you VERY much for the links and replies. Do any of you know what the size is of the stock flex cable? Is it a 1/4" square on both ends or just one, and what is the total overall length?

It appears that I can get a custom cable manufactured by Enforcer Direct, but I can't find any info on the original flex cable....

As always, any info at all is greatly appreciated...

Jim

TheFridge189

It depends on what motor you end up going with. The original Zenoah with a clutch had a square end and a round ferrule. I'm not sure about the non-clutched model. Here is a link, not sure if it's the correct length. If all the gasser proboats have the same length then this is what you want if you end up going with the orignal clutch:
www.bonzisports.com/store/product_info.php

stevo7896

That's going to be a great gift for your grandson.You both will have a blast. If you order stock parts ,it going to be designed for the clutch installed.I would strongly advise to do without the clutch .Its still easy to bring it in without a clutch and it will perform much better. When ordering parts from gizmos ,wharehouse hobbies or zippkits, three great suppliers, call them and they should be able to get what you need .Its a fun starter boat and looks great out on the water. Stephen

jdmartin

Thank you Fridge and Stevo.....another great link for parts that will work on this boat.

Fridge, the original 1/8 Miss Budweiser did not come with a clutch. I know there was a clutch on the later 1/8 Formula, and possibly the Elam and Llumar, but not the Bud. That's a great link you posted, so thanks again.

Stevo, yes, the grandson is going to be shocked when he realizes that Granpa actually bought this boat for him !! Can't wait to see the expression on his face...

Jim

greenjeep

My Feedback: (3)

Do you have the manuals for the boat? And is there ant chance of getting a copy?
Thanks,
Jjohn

Hydro Junkie

In all honesty, you can get better help here than you can with the manual as several of the people here have knowledge of your boat or with building and running scale hydros themselves.

Proboat 772

I have been away from this Board for awhile and just noticed your post. I ran these boats 4 or 5 years ago and have a big supply of parts. If you still need stuff - let me know

Dick Thompson

rcmorestressless

I am looking for the hardware and dampers to attach the motor mounts to the boat mounts, the radio box cover switch, and the battery box for the receiver. If anyone has these or knows where I can get them I would sure appreciate it!

Adam

rcmorestressless

Now that I am looking at it I also have 2 questions.

1.) There are 2 water inlet hoses and 2 water outlet hoses. Where do each of these connect to? I see two barbs on the manifold and two barbs on the top of the engine. I don't know what path the cooling water is supposed to travel.


2.) The kill switch has a bullet connector on the black wire, I see where that connects to tje wire coming off the engine. The red wire coming off the kill switch has a spade terminal crimped on. Where do I attach this end?

Thanks in advance,

Adam

Proboat 772

#1
Cooling line (in) goes to bottom of cylinder cooling cap. Top nipple on cooling cap goes to an exit fitting. Second Cooling line (in) goes to bottom of exhaust manifold cooling flange then a line from top of cooling flange goes to Tuned pipe cooling ring - then to an exit fitting

#2
The spade terminal attaches to the engine case to ground out the ignition.

Dick T

syjsdyjsdyjwen

Sure hope the maintenance outage doesn't last too long!

Lightning Bolt

Hey Guys,
I picked this one up a while ago and now looking to get it on the water.. I have a couple questions hopefully you can help me with... First the flex shaft was missing for some reason, I'm now guessing the prior owner broke it and could not find a replacement... so I downloaded the manual and found my set up is different than the one shown in the manual... the stuffing tube butts up to the prop strut? .. in the manual it shows the stuffing box, ferrule,then the prop strut.
My next question is the exhaust.. it is also different than the one shown in the manual there is no coupler, it slips over the header and the only thing holing it on is a bracket at the back of the boat... Does anyone recognize the header?

So what do I here? What do I need to get it in the water?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The previous owner made a lot of changes to the boat, possibly an engine swap as I also see a different motor mount. He changed over the drive from the conventional round drive setup to a square drive. I really don't like them but that's me.
He also changed the exhaust to what was on there to a Wrap-To-Center (WTC) header, on a ProBoat hull I don't know if its better or worse.
You can get a pipe stop that can keep it from moving around, this is one example: http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=365 . He also has the hardware to convert the drive back over.

Lightning Bolt

Yes the guy I got it from was into RC boats and sold it to get the Blackjack 55... thanks so much for the info, I will get one of those exhaust clamps and search around for a thread on square drives to figure out what I need to get to get it in the water... Thanks again for the info .. good knowledge!

tuckerjames71

Hey Dick, still have any miss bud spares you want to get rid of? Email me if you do thanks. [email protected]

expresscraft

I sold those boats in my hobby shop, I would change the stock drive line, Bruce at gizmo motors will sell you what you need. collet, prebuilt cable only needing to be cut to length, drive dog, speed master strut, and brass tube for stuffing box, It will make the stock boat much better. also a 105 degree header will alow you to get the right pipe length so your tuned pipe does more then plum out the exhaust. the wrap to center makes it to long to perform, you want around 12.5" from exhaust port to the biggest part of the expansion chamber. Also a good balanced and sharped prop is worth its weight in gold, Chris at dasboata.com is a great source, just tell him what you have and he will set you set up, they are pricey but bad props are like bad tires on rc cars. the pre built cable works with a round collet.also do away with the teflon liner that is used by ready to run companies that do not want to tell you to simply remove cable often to re grease it till the grease builds up in the stuffing box. It also creates drag the whole length of the cable and they do fail. Once you go to round cable you use a 9/16 and 5/8 wrench and you will have the cable out in 30 seconds. also if it does not push freely back in then your cable alignment has change, this happens from pulling the pull starter from time to time. this will also make your drive line fail if not maintained. You will never check it with a teflon liner and a cable that you need to remove the strut to get out. Teaching your grandson model maintenance is a value in life that most do not realize for younger modelers. On that strut you have you only need a .250 nose piece,.250 lead teflon bearings and .250 reducer then mod the strut from metric to standard to except them you do not need a new strut.yours has already been up graded. i hope this will help others that read your thread.

Hydro Junkie

This is a surprise, seeing someone asking about these again. I'm almost surprised no one told him to buy a new boat from one of the various sources