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  1. #1

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    Got my first boat and need help

    Hello all This is what I got and don't know nothing about it. The engine runs,no raido gear. Could use some input please.It is 46`` long and 14`` wide. Does anyone know name make model or about how old.What raido gear would work,needs raido box,not shure what else. Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Tidnab's Avatar
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    I have a hull like that,but mine is 52" long.I think the hulls started out as a Radio Active Equalizer and came in a 46" or 47" and a larger 52".Boatman Hobbies later bought the molds and produced them as a 47" Eliminator and a 52" Eliminator II. Boatman Hobbies went out of business and a guy on Jim's Boat Dock bought the 52" mold and made a few,which is where the one I have came from.He sold the mold to another guy who hasn't made any hulls off the mold. The 46-47" version, I think was produced later by Commanche R/C Boats, but they dissapeared from production.Your trim tabs are on wrong. They should be parralel with the bottom and maybe a 1/16" up.Here's a pic of the one that used to be on Jim's R/C Boat Dock's main page.
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  3. #3
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    Bandit, the Radio-Active hulls were originally from out of Las Vegas. It was 2 brothers who ran it until one passed away. They had problems with neighbors of their business complaining about the smell of the fiberglass (so he told me) and was trying to locate it to his backyard when he folded it up. This was way back a long time ago when I was first going to try out gas boating and was going to put one together for my wife. They were also selling modded 25 and 30cc Homelite's.
    IMPBA 17238 S
    269 Racing Team

  4. #4
    Tidnab's Avatar
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    Bandit.That's my mini longhaired dachshund's name in my avitar.When I joined here I couldn't figure a screen name and he showed up with his feet on my leg and looking up at me,like he was saying use my name.I used it but did it backwards to get Tidnab.
    Jim from JRCBD said he had to do a lot of work to his hull to race it and get 55mph out of a Homelite.The hull I got was after Icman69(Dan Warrick)on JRCBD got the molds and made a few.He straightened out the bottom and mine was flat,no hook.He sold the hull that I have to Pat Mulvany who was going to build it for his wife,but never did so he sold it to me.I stripped the color changing paint off it.It was a green that changed to blue that was hard to see on the water.I've gotten it to the point that it needs primed and painted and put it together.Might work on it before spring if my spirits willing.

  5. #5

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    Does any one know if there is a rc boat club in the Beaumont Tx aera,I am not to far from Houstion Tx. The boat is just how I got it I haven't done any changes yet.Looking for some advise.The fule system and raido box looks old and needs to be replaced not sure what else.I have looked at a lot of pics and I have noticed that the rudder is off set on most all the boats I have seen and on my boat it is in line with the prop,will this cause some concerns or is this ok.I V fuel system ? how it works and setup. Pluming for cooling the engine. I can turn the prop and the shaft turns in the collet. I haven't tried to tighten it yet.When I ran the engine the prop turned. What kind of lube for the shaft? Any advise or pointers would be great.

  6. #6
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    There probably is. I know a few guys in the DFW area. Try the sanctioning body sites, www.impba.net or www.namba.com to locate clubs in the area.
    Wow, lots of questions. I'll take a shot at a few of them.
    For playing around with, the center mounted rudder is OK but offsetting it 2-1/2" to the right is better for a racer but even for the recreational boater it makes it easier to remove the cable for greasing.
    IV bags, all I use. They will collapse as they empty and only need one line to the carb so water can't get in. The bag must have fuel in it at all times otherwise they will harden. They will sometimes weep a tiny bit of fuel the first time that they're used.
    Plumbing. One or two lines in from the rudder. One line to the lower fitting on the cooling jacket and the other to the cooling flange on the exhaust. I exit the lines out of the left side of the hull as we drive in clockwise ovals and can see if the system is working properly.
    Tighten the nut on the collet and don't be too shy about tightening it down well. Even loose it will spin some.
    Cable grease. This is one of those ask 100 people and you may get 100 different replies. I've tried a lot of things over the years from trailer bearing lithium grease on up. Some use a grease and oil mix.
    IMPBA 17238 S
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  7. #7

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    Thanks Ron, For now I will play. I was thinking of taking it apart and go through everything to see what I have and don't have. I also have a Rio 51 that came with the deal. it has the fugie engine and has a lot of things missing.

  8. #8
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    Too bad that the Fuji wasn't missing!
    I ran with some guys last summer, a little Sunday morning bunch, what wut ya brung kind of thing. One of the guys has a Rio 51 and another with the Z version. The guy got it to run but it was no rocket ship.
    IMPBA 17238 S
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  9. #9

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    Well I took the engine, fuel tank, raido box out and then engine is a ZENOAH G 260 POM,THAT IS WHAT THE TAG ON THE BOTTOM SHOWS, tossed the tank and raido box. Noticed the formers are in bad shape. There is a plastic liner inside the prop shaft tube, is that normal? also found there is a bearing between the peace right in front the prop and the output drive mount. There is a block between the engine and carb with 2 tubes and a peace that looks like a co2 cartridge at the end of each tube, what are they fore? Found some extra holes in the transom. It has 2 discharge outlets 1 on each side of the boat.The engine has 2 water cooling ports on the head, and on the exhaust port, and on the pipe. There is only1 o ring in the pipe 1 is missing and there is a set screw that holds the pipe to the header. Looks like I have some work to do. Here is some more pics Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    It should be PUM so it's a Z version of the Rio 51.
    The liner is Teflon, not unusual but not really used anymore as it is supposed to reduce friction.
    The Rio's driveline is different from other gas boats. The upside is that if and when (more when than if) the cable lets loose, you won't lose the prop. The downside is that you just can't replace that lemon part with one from any other manufacturer.
    The 2 CO2 bottles are known as boost bottes, one of the snake oils of the RC industry. The idea was that they'd hold a fuel charge for when you're on-and-off the throttle a lot but when you're running wide open most of the time they wouldn't do any good anyway. Toss them or find some sucker to unload them on.
    Yes, there should be 2 O-rings in there, one on each side of the header flare. Without both, it's going to leak like crazy.
    IMPBA 17238 S
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  11. #11

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    Ron the other boat I have is a RIO first vir. The boat in the pics is the one the engine came out of and I don't know what hull it is. That is one of the questions I have. This hull is 46`` and the RIO is 51``. Looks like I will need to do some work on the mounts inside the hull. Would it be best to fiberglass them? When using an IV bag will it need to be inside a box or not. If the Teflon liner is not used anymore what is? Just a few questions for now.

  12. #12
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    The previous owner may have done an engine swap to a Zen and made the Fuji a boat anchor.
    If the rails need enforcement then do it.
    You can mount an IV bag any way that you'd like. I've seen dozens of ways to do it. I keep it simple by running something between the rails on top of them, I had some scrap carbon fiber strips so I used those just to add a touch of bling but wood strip or dowel will do it also. Just zip-tie that bag to that. Yes, it's that easy.
    As far as the Teflon liner not being used, just brass tubing with a well-lubed cable is all that's needed. Remember, we're doing a lot of KISS stuff here for dependability. The Teflon liners would over-heat if the ran out of grease, would make nasty noises and have melted. I've seen a twin outrigger hydro do that, one that I was pitting for, it's not pretty. The Rio's have an oiling system to help prevent that from happening.
    IMPBA 17238 S
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  13. #13

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    RON THIS BOAT THAT IS IN THE PICS IS NOT A RIO 51 THAT IS WHAT I KNOW FOR A FACT. THE OTHE BOAT THAT I HAVE IS A RIO 51 AND IT DOES HAVE THE FUGI ENGINE STILL IN IT!! I have seen another RIO 51 and the other boat I have IS A RIO 51. I have read a lot of stuff about the RIO so I chose to use this boat THE ONE IN THE PICS. I am new to the boat world and could use some advise so as in the real boat world I don't Brake Out Another Thousand like in the real boat world.

  14. #14
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    The only pictures showing up here are the two in your first posting and none of the others. This is a problem now on a lot of vBulletin sites. This site is owned by Internet Brands who also owns vBulletin.
    I'll try switching browsers but I don't think that it's going to help. I'm basically flying blind here. Without hitting the refresh button even the goofy [x] things aren't showing up.
    IMPBA 17238 S
    269 Racing Team

  15. #15

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1959219Let me know if you can see these

  16. #16
    Tidnab's Avatar
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    I'm using IE and can see all the pics.Don't know if the previous owner of the red boat worked on the bottom,but the Equalizer and Eliminator hulls had a bad hook in the bottom forward of the transom. Put a straight level on the bottom from the transom and see if there's a gap under the level.If there is you'll need to fill that in and sand till it's level. If there's a teflon liner you can pull that out and cut the brass tube below the bend and leave that section as your stuffing box,to run a 5/16 " brass tube through,thus eliminating the teflon liner.You can add a T bar with a grease fitting to lube the flexshaft or use a grease block as shown below.Top Secret Boats has a nice T bar with a grease fitting. http://www.topsecretboats.com/inc/sdetail/192/4781
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  17. #17

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    Thanks Tidnab I will check it and see. Cool grease fitting I will check that out.

  18. #18
    Ron Olson's Avatar
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    Yup, got those as I switched over to Chrome.
    Toss the bottles and the velocity stack. With the wrap-to-center header take the pipe and run it as short as it'll go then cut off the excess header.
    IMPBA 17238 S
    269 Racing Team

  19. #19

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    Thanks Tidnab and Ron. Been working quite a bit. Did check the bottom of the hull and it is flat. Thanks to you to Ron for the pipe and header tip. For as the bottles I will try running with and without to see if there is any difference. Been reading a lot on the forum. Going to do some work on the inside of the hull before I put it back together. May take a wile do to my work. Will post more later. Thanks guys for the input.


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