Outerlimits 70 inch DV build
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Outerlimits 70 inch DV build
Starting a new build a Outerlimits DV it will be powered by a RCMK inline thru a spitter gearbox with outward counter rotating wheels
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If I'm correct doesn't ride pad tend to want to lift transom of boat out of water which will kind of make bow run more wet? If so that hull definitely doest need transom lift with extra weight of inline motor mounted in there. Jrod and Hoovy1 had an issues with Pro Painters hull like that with the twins in there,they were trying to get more bow lift not less and a ride pad was not the solution. BUT I may be wrong...correct me if I am please?
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If I'm correct doesn't ride pad tend to want to lift transom of boat out of water which will kind of make bow run more wet? If so that hull definitely doest need transom lift with extra weight of inline motor mounted in there. Jrod and Hoovy1 had an issues with Pro Painters hull like that with the twins in there,they were trying to get more bow lift not less and a ride pad was not the solution. BUT I may be wrong...correct me if I am please?
finish weight was near 34 pounds and the bottom just couldn't handle that type of weight performance wise
as for the ride pad I'm going to do this later so I can compare handling without it and with it
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If I'm correct doesn't ride pad tend to want to lift transom of boat out of water which will kind of make bow run more wet? If so that hull definitely doest need transom lift with extra weight of inline motor mounted in there. Jrod and Hoovy1 had an issues with Pro Painters hull like that with the twins in there,they were trying to get more bow lift not less and a ride pad was not the solution. BUT I may be wrong...correct me if I am please?
Mart
def need to straighten these out
Last edited by martno1fan; 04-09-2014 at 06:24 AM.
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From what lance has told me the Hull mods made a big difference in the end with handling and speed
finish weight was near 34 pounds and the bottom just couldn't handle that type of weight performance wise
as for the ride pad I'm going to do this later so I can compare handling without it and with it
finish weight was near 34 pounds and the bottom just couldn't handle that type of weight performance wise
as for the ride pad I'm going to do this later so I can compare handling without it and with it
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YOU ARE SPOT ON,fact is should have bought to orriginal GTX it runs like a champ .I def do not think im seeing shadows those strakes are def not right they dont even look sharp.All adding a ride pad has done is create lift right at the transom which is the last thing you need if the boats allready running wet.Actually filling in those steps has done little if anything to changing how she will ride,they arent even real steps they are just relief cuts not real steps anyway.
Mart
def need to straighten these out
Mart
def need to straighten these out
as for the ride stakes they aren't that sharp no and I was thinking about rectifying these
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Sharpening and straightening those strakes would make a big difference,i would def not add a ride pad though.The strakes are what gives the boat lift where it needs it but on that hull they could do with going much further back,i would lengthen the outer ones especially so you get more lift but not as much as a ride pad will give.If you do that i think the boat will run better in my opinion.
Mart
Mart
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Thats what i said they are not straight ,as anyone can see from the pics.Maybe i should have said theyre not straight anymore ,i wasnt implying they came like that.
He has modded the bottom and obviously sanded the strakes by mistake when doing it.As for the ride pad this is not the right way to go in my opinion.
I would lengthen the outer strakes to 3" from transom,inner ones might be ok as they are but id lengthen those also to roughly where the orriginal outer ones are now.
This is what i would do anyway.
Mart
He has modded the bottom and obviously sanded the strakes by mistake when doing it.As for the ride pad this is not the right way to go in my opinion.
I would lengthen the outer strakes to 3" from transom,inner ones might be ok as they are but id lengthen those also to roughly where the orriginal outer ones are now.
This is what i would do anyway.
Mart
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Lance did a great job with Pro painters boat as I was able to drive it. I think the problem was lack of prop selection as it would quickly get to speed and fall off. I wish abc would make the right hand rotation chopper props which I was told was going to be in the works but that was over a year ago
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Definitely lengthen the strakes back. I have the same setup you are building and went thru the same steps. Filled the vents and so forth. You will enjoy the boat. It is right at home in the chop and handles great . Mine sounds like a jetski when I do a drive by with the slapping of the water .I did my build right after propainters build and used their info as feedback .Just remember they were running dual motors .We are running inlines with a splitter so just a bit diff weight possibly. Never weighed mine to check. I will keep an eye on this build .
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Definitely lengthen the strakes back. I have the same setup you are building and went thru the same steps. Filled the vents and so forth. You will enjoy the boat. It is right at home in the chop and handles great . Mine sounds like a jetski when I do a drive by with the slapping of the water .I did my build right after propainters build and used their info as feedback .Just remember they were running dual motors .We are running inlines with a splitter so just a bit diff weight possibly. Never weighed mine to check. I will keep an eye on this build .
stevo7896 the concept from the beginning was to build a large Deep Vee using a inline motor and spitter gearbox to race in offshore conditions that we race in here in Bermuda my thinking was that a inline swinging a large wheel would induce a hell of a torque roll in the conditions the hull will be used in I was picturing in my mind numerous course corrections the sec hull leaves the top of a wave and lands with the single large wheel at the back . At no point was top end fast factored in this as I said before I was aiming for a high powered hull to dominate in the rough stuff and with counter rotating wheels the handling should be much better than a giant wheel swinging off the back of the back end
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My thinking about what your saying about better handling with twin props on a model boat is that you will find it difficult especially in rough water.When the boat gets bounced arround on the open sea one or the other prop will unload and you could get some very nasty handling issues,way worse than overcoming any prop walk from spinning a single large prop,just my opinion mind.
On another note a friend Bob runs one of my Apache 58s with a splitter gearbox powered by a k600 she ran 72 mph outward rotation (better handling) 6717/3 props but this wasnt on the sea.
On another note a friend Bob runs one of my Apache 58s with a splitter gearbox powered by a k600 she ran 72 mph outward rotation (better handling) 6717/3 props but this wasnt on the sea.
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My thinking about what your saying about better handling with twin props on a model boat is that you will find it difficult especially in rough water.When the boat gets bounced arround on the open sea one or the other prop will unload and you could get some very nasty handling issues,way worse than overcoming any prop walk from spinning a single large prop,just my opinion mind.
On another note a friend Bob runs one of my Apache 58s with a splitter gearbox powered by a k600 she ran 72 mph outward rotation (better handling) 6717/3 props but this wasnt on the sea.
On another note a friend Bob runs one of my Apache 58s with a splitter gearbox powered by a k600 she ran 72 mph outward rotation (better handling) 6717/3 props but this wasnt on the sea.
But we'll see
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I've run mine in a very large lake (Huntington Lake) that has a good head wind coming off the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Elevation is about 7000 feet and they hold regattas their yearly. It is very similar to big water running. The hull does great with this setup and the question of torque roll hasn't caused course direction changes. At idle you can rev it and cause it to rock back n forth ,but at speed haven't noticed any issues. Also I did experiment with inward rotation and it ran like crap. As Martin mentioned ,outward is the way to go . It was literally like two different boats. In regards to props unloading while the other grabs and causing handling issues .haven't experienced it .Maybe due to the weight and length of the hull.
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Your right not many doing the twin drive thing especially racing,you can but try.
Steve good to hear you have no issues,you might be right about the extra length,i plan on stretching my Apache to 70,might need to try the twin drives.
Only guy who has ran my Apache with twin drives in the sea that i know of is running twin electric,smaller props though and closer together than we can with gas.
As regards prop rotation Bob tried inwards and i told him it would handle like crap and it did,he changed to out and now she runs great.
Mart
Steve good to hear you have no issues,you might be right about the extra length,i plan on stretching my Apache to 70,might need to try the twin drives.
Only guy who has ran my Apache with twin drives in the sea that i know of is running twin electric,smaller props though and closer together than we can with gas.
As regards prop rotation Bob tried inwards and i told him it would handle like crap and it did,he changed to out and now she runs great.
Mart