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rio51 with rcmk s-254

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Old 05-17-2014, 01:25 PM
  #1
tcs81281
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Default rio51 with rcmk s-254

im new to this forum,,, I bought a rio with a Fuji... could not get it to stay running. so I called up gizmo and got a rcmk, mounts, torqemaster pipe and 7/8 header,flexcable tube aluminum support brace with grease fitting, and there universal throttle kit.. im wondering if someone has some pictures of throttle setups on there rios with the rcmk. I have addressed the issuses with this boat since reading all the stuff on here about the Fuji.exhaust cracking and other stuff. thanks for the help, I also got he grim racer 3blade prop, and will be running another water pickup and more water exit ports. hoping to get it on the water soon!!!!
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:57 PM
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Just by looking at the pictures from the AquaCraft site it shouldn't be too hard to do. Unless you need the ignition shut-off, replace the throttle servo arm with a stock Futaba arm. From there run a 2-56 or 4-40 threaded rod from the servo to the new Speedmaster linkage. You're going ot need a radio box seal for the rod but AquaCraft has them from some of their other boats that you can use or get one from someone like Du-Bro.
Remove the idle set screw if you already haven't so that you can shut the engine off from the transmitter.
You shouldn't need the throttle cable brace on the side of the radio box either.
I used this shot as my reference: http://www.aquacraftmodels.com/boats...1xxai12-lg.jpg
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:31 PM
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Do yourself a favour and get a carb block that rotates the carb to give you a direct straight run to your servo,this way no need for bellcranks just a straight rod,so simple.Im sure someone your side sells them but heres the one i used it also has a pulseline fitting but you can get them without.
I for one will never use a belcrank system ever again.
Mart
http://www.millpondmodels.co.uk/inde...&product_id=37
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:24 PM
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Speedmaster throttle assembly is one of the better ways. Forget about friction style bell crank style throttles with the nylon bellcrank directly pushing under the throttle arm.

Junk that throttle you have it is the friction type. They are the worst way possible. get a Speedmaster.

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Old 05-19-2014, 01:03 PM
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Ron Olson
 
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Dan, I use nothing but the Speedmaster's myself but there are some people that like them because they say that they can rev the engine with the radio system off. I can do the same thing! I've got a small pile of the Gizmo style that people have given me. They're sitting in a box that I started for stuff to unload at a swap meet.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:32 PM
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thanks for all the replies,,.. ron I have the older radio system and servos, its the rio51,, that picture is the rio51z with the zen motor. here are a few pics of my setup, I wanna keep the stock radio box, I have another radio box seal kit from gizmo and there universal throttle kit, pic of it posted, the bracket is already bolted to the rear mount. the ball link is off the Fuji carb.this carb on the rcmk is mounted diffent than the Fuji, so the linkage is swapped. the rcmk comes with a 929 carb, the Fuji has a 883 I think. another question is the exhaust. witch pipe to use..2inch or 3inch 90degree, how much header pipe should be sticking in the tuned pipe?
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:55 PM
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Sory to burst your bubble guys but any bellcrank setup is inferior to one straight rod directly coupled to the throttle arm its just one less thing to go wrong and so simple to setup its a no brainer.
Not only are you eliminating un needed linkages in your throttle setup you are gaining an alloy carb block,all this for what it would cost for your belcranks and extra linkages.
After trying this setup i will never use a belcrank system ever again.
Mart

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Old 05-21-2014, 12:20 PM
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No bubbles busted here. LOL. I am very familiar with straight directly connected carb linkage. I use to sell the aluminum intake blocks that rotate the carb. I could certainly be running them that way if I liked it better. Been there done that and ain't going back. Lol.
It is whatever you like.

Direct is less parts and cleaner I suppose.

To each his own and have nothing against direct really but I will share why I prefer the Speedmaster nylon bellcrank style throttle setup -versus- direct because the nylon can flex if you should overrun in either direction accidentily. Instead of it trying to rip the shaft off the carb or a linkage apart it simply flexes you see it and realize you need to either get the radio set on the right model because you screwed up(especially if the other model had the throttle channel reversed)or adjust your endpoints again. But even while setting endpoints it is nice not to have it locking solid before you get it backed off where it belongs. The nylon is like a servo saver it flexes only if you should need it too. Same reason I would never run the metal bellcranks they sell. Defeats the purpose of having the bellcrank. The flexible bellcrank even though it doesn't flex in normal use much at all I think it isolates the pounding of the engine and vibration from going to the servo, mount and radio box.
I also don't like the carb arm up underneath where you can't get to it much. I realize you put it on before with the arm swung reward halfway but even the linkage connection down in between the engine and rail is not easy to get to should you need to. The Speedmaster linkage is 100% bullet proof. Must own 30 and no part of any have ever failed.

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Old 05-21-2014, 12:58 PM
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Whatever lol
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:57 PM
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I still have a boat or two that has straight pull setup.

My Twin Conquest has it still,



Set up many boats with straight pulls. It makes the twins work smooth as silk. Good place for straight pulls if there is a place.
http://youtu.be/Fz0dkQ7Ka5I
How about some bellcrank style double vision,
http://youtu.be/BTmmQX_BuO8
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:47 PM
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I use both types - both have advantages and disadvantages

The two I have with straight pull have their own complete radio systems - and I check endpoints before I run - it is something u have to pay attention too. Also having stiff rubber mounts as well (rocking motors with no play in throttle are hard on carb shafts - that one I learned hard way)

The latest 90 iso I have is from Matho and is a work or art - and very thin as I was looking for upper end rev.

Both systems are good if set up right - I find reg Speed Master easier to take off for maintenance though.

Darn ---------- you both right

RD
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:01 PM
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Im allways right just like Daniel pmsl,at the end of the day each to his own so whatever works for you.I prefer this way,less parts,simple to setup and looks cleaner.Ive never liked belcranks if im honest so i am biased lol.
Mart
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:02 PM
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ok I got some stuff coming from gizmomotors, speed master throttle kit, 4-40rods and end links... im sure I could figure it out once everything is in front of me... can someone help on the question of how much header pipe should be sticking in the tuned exhaust pipe. im going to have to cut the exit hole bigger, seen some pics of rios on this site done, but not sure how much pipe to cut off of header. its a 7/8 pipe 90degree from gizmo. I was looking into replacing the stock steering servo on the rio iits only like 53oz of torque,read on here its good to replace with more torque,, what hitec or futaba servo would be best?
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcs81281 View Post
ok I got some stuff coming from gizmomotors, speed master throttle kit, 4-40rods and end links... im sure I could figure it out once everything is in front of me... can someone help on the question of how much header pipe should be sticking in the tuned exhaust pipe. im going to have to cut the exit hole bigger, seen some pics of rios on this site done, but not sure how much pipe to cut off of header. its a 7/8 pipe 90degree from gizmo. I was looking into replacing the stock steering servo on the rio iits only like 53oz of torque,read on here its good to replace with more torque,, what hitec or futaba servo would be best?
You want only about 1/4" in past the inner oring with a starting pipe length of about 13 1/2 " just to be safe measuring from the exhaust port out and around the 90° then straight back to the center of the pipe or the 2" band.
Actually with a Gizmo 90° it takes up about 1" around the bend so you can really measure straight back from center of port straight back to the center of pipe using a 12 1/2" measurement instead as a lot easier and more accurate going straight back. It might need shortening as much as a inch later but you must start long.

The header must be cut nice and straight with a nice rounded beveled edge on the outside of the cut so when you slip it through the orings they won't get cut. You need to grease or liquid soap the orings a bit before pushing the header through.

Did you buy the whole new system with flange and the pipe stop/holder collar?


Servo choice for that might be ok with a Hitec 5645 or Savox 1256 or a Futaba 9156. You could also look at the Hitec or Savox waterproof models. Don't get less than 200 oz in torque.

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Old 05-25-2014, 06:55 AM
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danielplace, im not understanding your measurement of 12-13inches. here are a few pics of pipe with tapemeasure, I got the whole torque master kit from gizmo, im not messing with the small junk that came with boat.ill look into those servos..
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:02 AM
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What Daniels saying is you need to start with a tuned length of 13 1/2",measured from exh port arround bend of header to the centre of the 2" band of your pipe,then mark your header accordingly and cut,leaving around 1/4"-1/2" past the last o ring in your pipe.Then run the boat and shorten your pipe a 1/8 at a time,once you find the best tuned length re shorten your header so there's no more than 1/4" past the o ring.
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Old 05-25-2014, 03:14 PM
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Is that a standard 90° or a 2" offset 90° it looks to be sticking out more than standard short offset. In any case don't use the 12 1/2" straight back. Only the 13 1/2" from the exhaust port out and around the bend then back to center of band.
Once you have the 13 1/2" following the centerline around the bend then you can take a straight back from the center of port to the easiest place for you to replicate. I would use the front of the band just because once you figured it the other way from there on out it is irrelevant how you measure it while shortening it each time. Pick a point on header or flange and pick a point on the pipe. Any two points it doesn't matter as long as when you measure to shorten it you measure from the same two points. I hope I am not confusing you further but it once you get it will make plenty of sense.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:26 PM
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I got the pipe installed, throttle hooked up, checked my water lines for leaks.... using a valve on water hose with a vacuum y connector jb welded to a water hose fitting. gassed it up with a new mixture of gas/oil.... around 5ozs of oil to gallon...seems like the pull starter is making some noise.. maybe binding up or something? I put my hand over carb and pulled to get gas in carb... pulled and pulled and no pop from motor. pulled plug smelt like gas,,, grounded plug to head and seen faint spark..whats the plug gap on this rcmk s-254 suppose to be? gap between flywheel and pickup coil? I put the red wire to red wire and the other black wire is not coneceted to anything. and put a ground wire from copper ground on 2nd coil to the engine block. I used a rubber ball joint boot from carquest on the end of the tuned pipe.. had to open up hole in transom a lot.... soon as I get this motor running, will rtv inside and out.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:36 PM
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First off, you don't have enough oil in the mix, it should be 8-10 oz. per gallon. The plug should be at .106" or you'll start frying secondary coils. Don't ask me how I know but NGK plugs out of the package have too much gap. You've probably flooded th carb. When cold, gently pull over with your thumb over the carb until it's wet then try it. Carb needle settings at 2 turns out on the low-speed and 1 turn out on the high.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
First off, you don't have enough oil in the mix, it should be 8-10 oz. per gallon. The plug should be at .106" or you'll start frying secondary coils. Don't ask me how I know but NGK plugs out of the package have too much gap. You've probably flooded th carb. When cold, gently pull over with your thumb over the carb until it's wet then try it. Carb needle settings at 2 turns out on the low-speed and 1 turn out on the high.

ron thanks for getting back so quick.. did you mean 0.016 on the plug gap. I have heard others say use a business card on the mag pickup air gap? I will add some oil to my gas mix. my carb settings may be off .. ill adjust and try again.. read on internet someone saying to use antisieze on the coil mounts and bolts to create a good ground?
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:54 PM
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I just happened to be online when I got a notification.
Yes, .016" should be the spark plug gap. The primary coil gap should alread be set at the factory but if you remove it you don't need much, a business card or a paper label from a prop or parts package will also do.
I don't use any any-sieze or thread lockers on the coil bolts. Most come with a flat and lock washer already and hab\ve never needed a ground strap except for a Quick-Draw engine. QD doesn't like the secondary coils monuted on them so usually it's mounted on an engine rail.
If you think that the plug had a weak spark then you haven't seen one on a CY/Sikk engine! I had to turn off my basement lights to see it! The RCMK coils are kind of weak so I started using Zenoah coils as they're a bolt-on and give a better spark. The Zen owners will run a larger gap, .018"- .020".
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:23 PM
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First of all I did not know Rio51 came with a Fuji Engine, They are ok but Zenoah are the next recommendation on my behalf
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Old 07-18-2014, 01:12 PM
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I got the motor running, exhaust sealed up.. set the needles as stated by ron olson.. are these setting final setting or for break in?,,, its running rich smoking and oil out the tuned pipe, im running the recommended 8oz oil( royal purple synthetic) per gallon of gas. motor sounds great and revs very nice. with no muffler. im on the last leg before the boat goes in the water... driveline and prop? I got the grimracer 3 blasé prop, do I or how do you balance it? im using stock running gear, are you guys leaving the rubber liner in the stuffing tube, wondering if it will heat up at high rpms and start to melt. I will grease the shaft a lot and wont be running the auto oiler it came with. and not sure how far to push it in and clamp it down? does the liner in the stuffing tube and the grease keep water from going up tube and getting in boat? I also will be running a shaft saver between the collet and stuffing tube.. not much room with my setup but will work.
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:49 PM
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Those are pretty close settings but don't worry about the oil as you should see a little.
The GrimRacer props are fairly well balanced out of the package but not too sharp. They don't want any liability issues with them being too sharp and somebody cutting themselves.
The flex cable will still need greasing, oiler or not otherwise you'll know it as it'll make a really nasty noise. You can melt the Teflon also if not greased then it makes an awful mess.
The Rio 51Z uses a square drive setup so the cable can go all the way in.
You don't need a shaft saver with your boat. It's a weird little setup that it has as it's made so that you won't lose the shaft, propshaft or prop but the cable and propshaft have been known to come apart.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrohunter View Post
First of all I did not know Rio51 came with a Fuji Engine, They are ok but Zenoah are the next recommendation on my behalf
sure did, when the rio first came out, had a Fuji motor,,... its junk... exhaust cracking, hard starting. low power.. hence why I swapped it for the rcmk s-254
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