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expresscraft Boat hulls

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Old 08-27-2014, 10:02 AM
  #26
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BHH has the Zen 300 for 199
http://www.bhhanson.com/engines.htm

Bonzi makes a good clutch

Avoid duel rudder systems as they are more weight, complicated - hard to keep aligned and no real improvement on steering (I have both here - my son runs WHH duel and it's a PITA)

Think simple and less complicated - complicated = more to go wrong. Stick to 'name brand' hardware like SpeedMaster, Insane, etc,

Just my 2 cents

Randy
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:03 AM
  #27
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The plan which changes daily, is to get an engine and hull, then get all the hardware from the same vendor to accommodate those components. I will give Hanson a look, Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lever02 View Post
The plan which changes daily, is to get an engine and hull, then get all the hardware from the same vendor to accommodate those components. I will give Hanson a look, Thanks.
oops sorry thought you were trying to build for reasonable cost ............ never mind

Good Luck

Cheers
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Old 08-27-2014, 02:54 PM
  #29
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Cost is an issue, clutch is all I can get from Bonzi. The speed master stuff seems reasonable. Too early in the game to stress-out on the hardware.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:50 PM
  #30
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SS, that Ferrari GTX is yours?
Shying away from GTX because wanted to do dual props and the GTX stern seems a little small compared to the other 3 big hulls I mentioned - thought those big ones would be easier with duals.
Also wanted as much rise in the bow as possible to handle very choppy water - the GTX seems a little shallow?
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott09 View Post
SS, that Ferrari GTX is yours?
Shying away from GTX because wanted to do dual props and the GTX stern seems a little small compared to the other 3 big hulls I mentioned - thought those big ones would be easier with duals.
Also wanted as much rise in the bow as possible to handle very choppy water - the GTX seems a little shallow?
Yes the Ferrari GTX is mine. Far from being shallow and more than enough room for dual drives. You can fit twin engines in the hull and still have space. Tom made working area very spacious.

Here's a link to some comparison photos that Matt (justaddwater) posted so you can see how much room the GTX transom has.

http://www.imageevent.com/justaddwat...sonshots636565
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:59 AM
  #32
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Awesome SS, thx for the info and pics. Tom's hulls are so affordable it's difficult not to want one compared with the others.
Your GTX is one of the best looking boats I've seen. How did you do the graphics? Would you be offended if I attempted to 'copy' it?
Thx, Scott.
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:11 PM
  #33
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Hull was sprayed red and everything else is done in vinyl than clear coated. Copying is on you mate...as long as you don't try take credit for the design lol.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:26 AM
  #34
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Credit all yours, will even sticker it that way.
Vinyl all custom or was it stock ordered?
Have a rcmk 600, gearbox and planning on WD200 steerable dual drive - only concern with that hull is there doesn't seem to be much room for trim tabs with the WD200 drives. Your using turn fins, right?...with no trim tabs?
Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:30 PM
  #35
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Vinyl was all custom made. I use trim tabs but NO turn fin. Once you mount both drives than just mount tabs as close as you can to drives.

A few pics on the link below that a friend of mine posted when i first built the boat.

Expresscraft GTX Ferrari pics

Last edited by SS RC Boats; 08-31-2014 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:44 PM
  #36
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Thanks SS, those pics show much more of the boat I wanted to see, like stern setup.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:15 AM
  #37
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My advice would be leave the trim tabs off untill youve tested the boat as some monos dont need them in my experience.
Mart

Last edited by martno1fan; 09-03-2014 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:31 AM
  #38
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Hey lever02 we sprayed some of your deck today. Do you want me to post the progress on your boat here, then you can just make a build thread out of this you already have some good guys that can help you watching.

Last edited by expresscraft; 09-04-2014 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:47 AM
  #39
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That would be great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by expresscraft View Post
Hey lever02 we sprayed some of your deck today. Do you want me to post the progress on your boat here, then you can just make a build thread out of this you already have some good guys that can help you watching.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:16 AM
  #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martno1fan View Post
My advice would be leave the trim tabs off untill youve tested the boat as some monos dont need them in my experience.
Mart
I think the rocker thats built in the bottom of this hull is the reason why it needs tabs. If it was a flat bottom or even a hook in bottom i would agree with not using tabs. Have built and tested 3 of these particular hulls and even with the 2" long Speedmaster tabs and some negative angle in stinger drive it still wants to lift. One i even built with motor further forward and still wanted to lift bow,once i put 3" long tabs on it cured the problem a lot as you can see in video of my Ferrari one that a friend posted on Youtube.

Just wondering if you have built and tested one of the GTX hulls?
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:15 PM
  #41
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As far as im aware he was choosing between the Phantom, Seahawk and C-68 hull and had decided against the GTX.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:42 PM
  #42
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Looks to be a good project, hope you guys are a patient lot!

Last edited by lever02; 09-04-2014 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:52 PM
  #43
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Thx for sharing trim tab experience with the GTX SS, good to know!
Mart, SS's Ferrari GTX is so damb nice looking, thinking about going that way and kind of copying his - narrowed down to that one vs the C-68.
Hadn't considered GTX because many videos of them look like handling is a little squirrely but looks like SS has his doing well with 3 inch tabs.
Haven't been able to find videos of a C-68. And thx for the reminder - would never add trim tabs before running a hull. Been eyeballing some remote tabs but they're small, would have to about double the running surface length which may be 'too much' for their design to hold well.

By the way Tom, looking forward to following lever's build, get the thread started!

Last edited by scott09; 09-04-2014 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:38 PM
  #44
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Hey mart I did the same thing, lever02 started this thread and is going with the phantom,scott09 is following the thread and asked about the GTX,I just did a build thread on the GTX on jims boat dock under the manufacturing section,Any ways back to the phantom, we sprayed the deck only as we are also building another GTX and MTI at the same time.we try to spray the gel on 17 mils thick, to thin and when the resin shrinks it will pull the thin gel into itself causing gatoring, To thick and it will look great but be more prone to cracks in the gel coat.we normally take about 2 weeks to finish a boat after payment is made, some of that time is getting to that boat because we are almost always on the clock for other peoples boats.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:00 PM
  #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martno1fan View Post
As far as im aware he was choosing between the Phantom, Seahawk and C-68 hull and had decided against the GTX.
I think we got confused as Tom mentioned...lever02 wants the Phantom...scott09 is more decided on the GTX and was the one who asked about the trim tabs so i think that mixed us up a bit lol. My reply was to scott09 question when asking about room on transom for trim tabs and thats who i thought you were replying to when you advised to try without trim tabs because it may not need them.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:22 PM
  #46
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Either way Tabs look good...lol
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:29 PM
  #47
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Hey Tom, best make it stout, I'm going with with the K600s...I always bite off more than I can chew!
http://www.rcmk.com/main.php?pg_ctrl...ct&sn=RE069-12
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:00 PM
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ok so here is the lay up process, we use strands in the strakes to give the deck a ton of strength,The putty used to take the sharp corners off is aerosils and resin, most of this gets removed when you roll out the part, we are using 11/2 oz mat backed by 5.8 oz carbon fiber twill, this is all done in one step to make a chemical bond between the 2 layers.The phantom has a very pointed bow so we add more layers to make it very strong, you can not see this part of the boat so we are not to worried about over lapping on the underside of the deck. I am focusing in on the cords in the strakes because its one of the steps not done on most other builds.And of course on Lisa's finger nails, so all the men out there will have a true idea on how we feel about having to do some seam work on some of our boats that are not a shoebox fit.Boats like the Apache/phantom have no over lapping deck and need to be filled and sanded before painting. they are meant to be painted and no seam looks great after the boat is done. Just remember a woman with fingernails built the boat out of raw materials.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:33 AM
  #49
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It allways gets confusing when difefrent people ask questions on the same thread,hard to keep tabs on who said what and im getting lazy and cant be a***d to re read every post haha.
Looking good Tom,i build my hulls in a similar way exept i use my own bog mix for tight angles strakes an edges mixed with chopped strands.Ive stopped using carbon now as the carbon kevlar aramids are so much nicer to handle and work with, you should try them if you havent allready,the weave doesnt pull apart as easy as carbon and it drapes much nicer with the softer kevlar.
Scott i know a few guys who own Toms GTX and theirs all seem to run superbly well.
I just have a thing about trim tabs in that i dont reall like using them although i do like the looks of the scale type lol.
Mart

Last edited by martno1fan; 09-05-2014 at 04:36 AM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:54 AM
  #50
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I have not tried anything but the carbon,just a note: we use a spray adhesive on the carbon so it stays together better when handling it.I an not saying that so much for your benefit Mart, just info for others that might be watching this thread.sometimes I will add mill fibers to the putty when strength is needed,areosils and resin are just a filler no strength at all, remember resin shrinks when it dries so its important not to leave deep amounts or it will pull your gel coat away from the mold and into itself. so rolling your part out very good is important.Also when using your brush to extract excess resin do not push your brush into the work peice or you will drive the bristles under the rolled glass and lift it.only dab and drag the brush, wiping it clean often.
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