f15pilot

My Feedback: (11)

Sold it to a guy in Australia and never heard from him again other than acknowledging he received it... wish I still had his email.

I used micro servos on a rod. They were pushing a lot less load than you are though. Good luck. Love the build

rcguy1411

Stand corrected Randy been a while since I read this and thought qd were recommended for each drive maybe a clone blata would work 350.00 can get a Waldron carb and carbon fiber reads for them might be a possibility for half the price

Mario Giordano

Ok guys, everything is clear now, but I still have a doubt, if a single QD 30cc motor pulls out 8 hp, a twin inline does 16 right? some time ago I saw another Hunter of a friend of Matt (Moderator Justaddwata) with a twin QD 35cc inline, 70cc total, a gearbox and 2 s6 z-drives, a dangerous setup if we take the limits of these drives, so how much power gets to each z-drive? maybe the s6 can handle, remember that mines are not s6, http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/catego...u---Plain.html

rcguy1411, can you tell me how do you lubricate the drives before runing, when I bought them they sent me a operating guide, but can't understand anything, it's in German and the images are unclear.

Thanks

SS RC Boats

Twin inlines do not have 16hp they are 14hp max. QD's are on another level the way they are built compare to a std RCMK or Zen that's why their single motors can produce 8+hp.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

MHZ has been constantly backpeddling about the power capabilities of the S6 drives. Once they were thought indestructable with a Rotax Max 125cc cart motor driving a pair through a gearbox. Since those days I think it is anyones guess what an S6 will take.
The Hunter my buddy Phil built with the inline 70 was a touch overpowered. While the S6 drives were working hard - the power reaching them was also being run through a splitter box at a 30% overdrive (if my memory still works). Which to my understanding would mean the drives are seeing at least 30% less power though more RPM.
If I were tacking a hunter build I would think an inline zenoah/RCMK or blata/polini a good way to get her moving. She wont break any speed records but should certainly have some authority on the water.

Here is a link to Phils Hunter - http://imageevent.com/justaddwata/wa...hv43.penguin_s
I have a MHZ Reckless which is a little bigger than the Hunter - powered with a pair of zenoahs to a pair of S6's - another way to go. Wish I could report how well she runs (I have yet to get her wet I am embarrassed to say) - some pics from Thomas' build may also be of help - http://imageevent.com/justaddwata/mo...ermany/recless

rcguy1411

Remove bottom set screw from lower unit (in skeg) then remove Allen screw on top of mid section (the ones thatyour tie bar connects to) I have the filler kit from mhz fill from the bottom until the gear lube comes out the top I have been using the molly lube from mhz and so far I have seen no signs of damage

Mario Giordano

Matt, thanks for your intervention, as I thought, that twin QD was too much, and as I said to go simple I prefer the second option blata/polini, more blata than polini. Where was that hunter built? Germany? USA? That boat has a lot of fantastic accesories, hope that my boat will come that pretty.


Rcguy1411, thank you very much for the explanation, I only have to buy that mhz kit, and perhaps even their lube, thanks again.
So this is how, right?



Well, yesterday it took me all day to make the windows, this hull has many flaws, one of them is that the 2 windows are not identical, I made a paper template of the left window and I cut the pvc (pic 1) but this method hasn't worked, without matching the canopy window, being also of different sizes left with right, and I think that this is the reason why mhz don't make the metal windows frame like for all the other big boats. Then I tried another method, I put the plastic without cutting on the canopy (pic 2), I screwed up a few screws and then I remade the template on the plastic, same work for the right window, and so I did it (pic 3-4)

rcguy1411

Yep you got it that way you know drive is full

expresscraft

I might have missed it while reading through but the quick draw motor also comes with the best pipe you can get included in there engine price,As a hull manufacture I would love to say the hull is the heart of the boat but its not, the engine is, with a motor costing say 400.00 for a cheap modified motor and 200.00 for the pipe You are talking 300-400.00 difference at most, although that is a lot. its a small percentage of what you have already spent. And all of your effort will only be as good as your engine.
I am sure you already know....you are not building a shock wave..LOL

Mario Giordano

Yes Tom, I know you're right, now I have to make a decision.

Need Help! someone in the italian forum, told me about the position of my z-drives, and he's right, they are a little bit higher than the ideal position, can someone tell me something about? Can this be an issue? they are about 6 or 8 mm higher.

rcguy1411

With the drive set higher you my get more cavitation on top end this will also unload the outside prop even more during a turn fix might have to run a larger prop but you can only go so far with these drives it's hard to tell from those pics show us using a ruler center of prop shaft to hull so we can see where ruler hits the hull

Mario Giordano

Thanks rcguy1411, what's your name?

Here you have some pics with the ruler, hope more clear.

Mario Giordano

No one is able to give an advice?

In addition to pics already posted, here you have one where you can see the center axis slightly above the "V" hull.
Thanks

5150Cat

Mario,
I can't remember if I have any pics on my thread about the height of the drives. I want to say mine were lower than that though. I'll check tonight for you. Think my drives are still packed away in boxes. I'll find them tonight.

As for the motors. Listen to Matt. He has been instrumental in the direction I've gone with my Hunter build. I went for the stock Zenoah 260 inline twin. Anything more I think would be too much hp for the drives. Are you running a gearbox as well?

I'm running the S6 drives, through a gearbox, via the inline twin. Should be nice speeds, reliable and easy to maintain.

Keep us posted on the build! Glad to see another Hunter coming together!

Mario Giordano

Thanks Mike, and yes, i'm running a mhz gearbox.

I would be grateful if you put some pics of your boat, especially of the stern drive position.

I don't know if you read all the thread, but i want to build something special, not interested in speed records and all that stuff , normal speed will be ok, more interested in scale details, working parts and aesthetics. The engine is uncertain for now.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Mario - sorry I missed your posts and questions about drive position. I remember seeing the drive install pics a few months ago when I made an earlier post and was going to mention it but looks like I got side tracked with links etc.

Indeed your drives are way too high and I imagine you will see nothing but drive and handling issues where they are.

I typically aim to install stern drives with the drive shaft/point of drive being around 3mm above the wetted running surface of the hull. Meaning that if you put a ruler along the bottom of the hull (not the tip of the vee) it should end up slightly lower than the center line of the drive shaft (assuming the shaft is horizontal with the bottom of the hull). Basically keeping the prop setup like it is a surface drive. I have seen drives installed deeper in the water though cannot report any experience as to how it affects the handling.

Mario Giordano

Thanks Matt, I knew something was wrong, thought nobody would answer my question...
Well, I know that youhave built many boats with z-drives, so thanks for the tip, now, if you look at the pic there are 2 lines under the z-drive block, at the beginning I wanted to mount it on the lowest one (would been right), so what do you think if I lower to that position?

MATHO

if you think about the aquadynamics:
If the tip of the lower end will be tight in the shadow of the aft you'll get some lifting effect by the shape of the horizontal housing.
If the tip will be under the aft (outside of the aft's shadow) you'll get some downforce by the housing
If the tip and the horizontal housing of the lower end will be completely in the shadow of the aft you won't get any influence by that part of the lower end.

But you will always get a lifting effect by the fin.... and the props, for sure.

And: if the drives are installed very high at the transom (aft) the fins will not create a big leading if the boat is full on plane. That means: you'll get chine walk.

If this was mine I would install the drives in a way, that the horizontal part of the lower end which looks like a tipped tube will be exactly in the shadow of the transom, not higher.

5150Cat

I agree with MATHO. That was how I tried to set mine up. Mine was just dumb luck though and looking at the full size Fountain boats running Merc drives.

Mario Giordano

Thanks Thomas, so, if I understood correctly, the center axe of the z-drive (prop shaft) should match at the green point un the pic and not at the red one where it is now, right?
Conferm please.

MATHO

Ensure, that the complete horizontal tubes of the drive are in the shadow of the aft.
And do not forget: in some cases you have to angle the drives......
So I can't give a recommendation.
Maybe a better way: measure the diameter of that horizontal tubes and then paint these circles onto the aft, then it will be more clear.

rcguy1411

Pic of my s6 on 57" apache

Mario Giordano

Hey guys, after many years i'm back, soon i will resume the Fountain 38 project, but with substantial changes.
I'm now converting my Chief 83 (apache 84) into electric, to many issues with gas engines, especially for the prohibitions in the lakes, also the noise that bothers everyone, twin carburetors that drive you crazy .... etc. so I'll open a new thread if anyone cares.
Cheers