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Old 07-03-2016, 06:12 PM
  #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistycreekboats View Post
If you don't set your radio up properly and "Range test" it - then another electronic gadget will not save your boat.

Maybe if you tested the range of your Flysky first you wouldn't have crashed it
I did two range tests and failsafe tests. I had a new and prepped lipo battery running the Tx and a new Life battery running the Rx. It turned out the power switch on the Tx failed. I had the truck heading toward me at full throttle when this happened. Soon as the thing crapped out, the kill switch did it's job in shutting the engine down, however I had zero control of the servos, so no steering or brakes. And guess what stopped my 34lb. truck travelling at 53 mph? My car!! It smashed into the right rear tire and flew up the side. Hub cap destroyed and a hell of crease in the quarter panel. The r/c truck was wrecked beyond what I was willing to spend for the repairs, so I sold it.
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mistycreekboats View Post
Good radio, servos, switches (use Futaba) and batteries
Rx switches? I don't use them. Just something else that can cause a failure.
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:04 PM
  #53
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Originally Posted by Johnnysplits View Post
Rx switches? I don't use them. Just something else that can cause a failure.
You use a "add on electronic gadget" to save your boat or buggy? But don't use the switch that comes with the radio as recommended by the radio manufactures ?

Kind of speaks for itself --- guess I understand why you lost a buggy and I have never lost a boat - EVER. And I'm positive my boats are running wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy further out there in range than any buggy

Have a good one - use whatever works for you
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:13 AM
  #54
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Here was the first start of the engine in the hull.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlZXAKZIE78 And the first successful run going very slow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NdHDeCOKr8
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:34 PM
  #55
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What prop do you have on it? sounds like it can swing a bigger one and is cavitating (prop spinning but not biting) a lot. looks good overall though, make sure you drive by close and see that it is peeing out water nice from your water outlets.
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:35 AM
  #56
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I havent got my nice prop yet. Thats just the bonzi prop that was almost free with the outdrive package (70mm and 105mm pitch). I had it as close to the surface as well because of it dying when i pushed the back end down i messaged you about. Now i can start adjusting the depth.

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Old 07-12-2016, 12:21 PM
  #57
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Zoom Zoom Whats your pipe length set at ? Did you follow Zipps Pipe set up info?

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....age=page&id=26


Take the Spit tube (or little black Zenoah Velocity stack) off the carb if u still have it on


What carb did you use ? What did you set it too? I use that engine and pipe (same ) on a couple so should Zoom Zoom bit better than video


Make sure you 'Range Test' that radio before you run out there a bit

Looks like will be fun boat



Randy

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Old 07-12-2016, 12:25 PM
  #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistycreekboats View Post
Zoom Zoom Whats your pipe length set at ? Did you follow Zipps Pipe set up info ?http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....page&id=26Take the Spit tube (or little black Zenoah Velocity stack) off the carb if u still have it on What carb did you use ? What did you set it too? I use that engine on a couple so should Zoom Zoom bit better than video Make sure you 'Range Test' that radio before you run out there a bit Looks like will be fun boat Randy
I sure hope it goes faster then the video as I was barely pulling the trigger. The pips is 13.5 which is the starting point, I couldn't go any shorter or It wouldn't reach the end of the boat. I just ordered a tachometer to see what RPMs it will get when I do open it up. GizmoMotors told me a pipe length of around 11 3/4. Ill need some extension before I can go any shorter. The black stack is not on the carb, it came off in the bag. The carb is the one they send with it, the modded 1048 and I have it right at 1 1/2 turns on both L and H as they told me in an email. Also 8 oz conventional oil to a gallon of 87. Seems like an awful lot of oil but its what they told me.

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Old 07-12-2016, 12:32 PM
  #59
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13.5 should be good starting point - did you trim the extra header length off (inside pipe) - sometimes guys forget to do that

try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out


Sounds like your close

What prop did you order ??
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistycreekboats View Post
13.5 should be good starting point - did you trim the extra header length off (inside pipe) - sometimes guys forget to do that

try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out


Sounds like your close

What prop did you order ??
I had it hooked up to a hose and spent nearly an entire bag of gas turning the needles and giving it gas while holding on to it. 1 1/2 seemed the best on L, the H does look like it can go leaner but I left it there for the meantime, it gets hard to hold onto by myself with 1 hand lol. At first I had it set running on a picnic table and ended up way too lean on the L, once it was in the water it would die with any pressure on the rear end. It should be very close indeed!

All I know about the prop from Dasboata is its a 3 blade stainless, I don't actually know the measurements.

For the fun of it I tried a smaller 3 blade aluminum prop still here from the enforcer 57 boat, and this boat did not like it one bit, it felt light I had no turning with extremely wide turns. That came off in a hurry.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:44 PM
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Whats the best way to add on to the exhaust so it can reach the end of the boat, as I'm sure it'll need to be shorter to reach its peak? I got a 3" offset header and kind of wish I got a 2" or something so I have an extra inch to play with.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:56 PM
  #62
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With a 3" the pipe ends up almost tight to the bend

Make sure you trim extra off and that its all tight

Make sure carb is tight and no tubes etc on face


http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=288

or

if u need just a bit use

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=214

and piece silicone hose to seal to outlet

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Old 07-12-2016, 01:06 PM
  #63
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Gizmo has a cool outlet I use too

http://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php...st-pipe-detail

Pipe of alum tube and silicone hose and you can fab your own pretty cheap

Bonzi and you can fab own as well if you want color

http://www.bonzisports.com/store/bon...ust-p-131.html


Both Gizmos and Bonzis are big enough ID to run extension pipe through
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:30 PM
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Scott just so you know Randy...Misty creek boats is a good source of info.We give each other crap sometimes LOL but he does know his stuff and is a good guy to take advice from, What he is talking about cutting is the amount of header that is beyond the water cooling section of the chamber, just leave a little past the second ring in there, Do not cut it super close but do not leave it stock length either with a mod motor the pipe being right is important. You will get it dialed in and do not except slow speeds just because its a big boat anything less then 50 mph even as a new builder means something is still not correct.

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Old 07-12-2016, 03:40 PM
  #65
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I dont get what you guys are saying to cut. Theres nothing to cut around the area where water is right off the engine. Your saying it needs to be cut where the 2 o rings are?
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:01 PM
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Talking about the header pipe that the chamber slides on to, They are normally longer then they need to be, so the extra header pipe way inside the header needs to be removed but still past the second O-ring in the pipe is it even is water cooled at that joint I really can not see the pipe you have so if its just held on with a hose clamp then cut the header just past the contact area. I will get my phone and call you.Like always nice talking with you. HAVE FUN.

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Old 07-12-2016, 04:03 PM
  #67
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O ok. No its not water cooled there. Just the flange part off the engine is. Now I see what you mean. No the extra beyomd the clamp is not cut.
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxvalleypcgeek View Post
I dont get what you guys are saying to cut. Theres nothing to cut around the area where water is right off the engine. Your saying it needs to be cut where the 2 o rings are?
No

Any extra pipe you have from Header being long that goes PAST THE CLAMPING SURFACE of the pipe

Diff pipe but you get idea

One header is cut (1" Header pipe) bottom pipe in picture

Top is not cut yet (7/8" Header pipe New) top in picture

Measure from flange - around the center of pipe - to the center ring of pipe - try for 13.5" (hard with 3" bend)

Any extra header pipe protruding inside must be trimed off or "Pipe" will not work right




WE ARE TALKING ABOUT TRIMMING THE EXTRA OFF THE HEADER PIPE ONLY --- NOT THE TUNED PIPE
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxvalleypcgeek View Post
O ok. No its not water cooled there. Just the flange part off the engine is. Now I see what you mean. No the extra beyomd the clamp is not cut.

Your boat will be WAY LOW on power as the Pipe can not work if the header extends past the first part of Pipe clamping area

I know your pipe is not water cooled there

I was just showing how far the "Header" should go in the "Pipe"

Cut the extra off - readjust carb and Zoom Zoom again

I'm sure it will improve greatly



WE ARE TALKING ABOUT TRIMMING THE EXTRA OFF THE HEADER PIPE ONLY --- NOT THE TUNED PIPE

and REMEMBER you can always cut 2 or 3 times if its to long

BUT you can't add it back if you cut too much
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:43 PM
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As a note I have run that Gizmo 30 and Zipp Pipe (still do run it) and when you get closer it will plain haul butt. This is only little 40" but the Giz runs pretty good.

When you get your tune and prop closer it will "Sing" to you - 30 is in little black/blue boat here the Red boat is having set up issues in video as you can see

https://youtu.be/qNAhiiGem2M

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Old 07-12-2016, 05:23 PM
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Ill have to cut that part off when i remove to replace the o ring in the flange. It was already in rough shape i noticed with some of it burnt up. I bought a pack of 20 today from my fastenal buddy for 40 some cents rated for 450 degrees i believe.

Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.

I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
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Old 07-12-2016, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxvalleypcgeek View Post
I had it hooked up to a hose and spent nearly an entire bag of gas turning the needles and giving it gas while holding on to it. 1 1/2 seemed the best on L, the H does look like it can go leaner but I left it there for the meantime, it gets hard to hold onto by myself with 1 hand lol. At first I had it set running on a picnic table and ended up way too lean on the L, once it was in the water it would die with any pressure on the rear end. It should be very close indeed!

All I know about the prop from Dasboata is its a 3 blade stainless, I don't actually know the measurements.

For the fun of it I tried a smaller 3 blade aluminum prop still here from the enforcer 57 boat, and this boat did not like it one bit, it felt light I had no turning with extremely wide turns. That came off in a hurry.

Basic Tuning info - might help understand a bit better why to trim header and carb settings

Boats will not "Tune Well" on land - it will be close but not really the same

On land it has no real 'Load" on it so the engine will act diff when you 'load it up'

Better to be "fat then Skinny" on how rich/lean carb is set

Often they 'sound good ' on land then die in water when they are fat or lean

Start a bit fat then lean it down on the water - once you trim the header the "Tuned Pipe" will act like "Supercharger " and drawn way more air and fuel in

With the header being long the pipe chambers can't work - so no real supercharging and motor wants to die when you 'overload' it with fuel and the extra 'load' of spinning the prop in the water

Just my view

And yes Tom and I don't always see eye to eye - but always agreeing wouldn' be any fun now would it

LOL

Randy
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Old 07-12-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistycreekboats View Post
Basic Tuning info - might help understand a bit better why to trim header and carb settings

Boats will not "Tune Well" on land - it will be close but not really the same

On land it has no real 'Load" on it so the engine will act diff when you 'load it up'

Better to be "fat then Skinny" on how rich/lean carb is set

Often they 'sound good ' on land then die in water when they are fat or lean

Start a bit fat then lean it down on the water - once you trim the header the "Tuned Pipe" will act like "Supercharger " and drawn way more air and fuel in

With the header being long the pipe chambers can't work - so no real supercharging and motor wants to die when you 'overload' it with fuel and the extra 'load' of spinning the prop in the water

Just my view

And yes Tom and I don't always see eye to eye - but always agreeing wouldn' be any fun now would it

LOL

Randy
Yes i found that out it would just keep dying after 20 seconds in the water. I noticed if i pushed down on the transom it would just shut off and i was like ***. Got the needle much richer with the hose for cooling and holding onto the boat testing in the water. It was way too lean once given a load.
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Old 07-12-2016, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxvalleypcgeek View Post
Ill have to cut that part off when i remove to replace the o ring in the flange. It was already in rough shape i noticed with some of it burnt up. I bought a pack of 20 today from my fastenal buddy for 40 some cents rated for 450 degrees i believe.

Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.

I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
Silicone O Rings from any RC Boat place work great (usually orange)

Yea order some set screws - we all loose the ------------- as a note you should be pretty much using a touch of blue Loctite on "Everything" in your boat ------- they vibrate everything off

A boat with a inline rudder will handle diff with a 2 blade vs a 3 blade - they steer differently - you have to find what works and Chris (Dashbota) is a wiz at that prop magic

More 'seat time' and will work bugs out -- guys here will help (and many other sites as well)

Zoom Zoom
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:02 PM
  #75
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For anyone else working on Pipes and Headers this may help a bit

Later

Randy

https://youtu.be/ysUTCyOYBTI
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