New Seahawk 72 Build
#51
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa,
FL
Posts: 1,067
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I did two range tests and failsafe tests. I had a new and prepped lipo battery running the Tx and a new Life battery running the Rx. It turned out the power switch on the Tx failed. I had the truck heading toward me at full throttle when this happened. Soon as the thing crapped out, the kill switch did it's job in shutting the engine down, however I had zero control of the servos, so no steering or brakes. And guess what stopped my 34lb. truck travelling at 53 mph? My car!! It smashed into the right rear tire and flew up the side. Hub cap destroyed and a hell of crease in the quarter panel. The r/c truck was wrecked beyond what I was willing to spend for the repairs, so I sold it.
#53
My Feedback: (1)
Kind of speaks for itself --- guess I understand why you lost a buggy and I have never lost a boat - EVER. And I'm positive my boats are running wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy further out there in range than any buggy
Have a good one - use whatever works for you
#54
Here was the first start of the engine in the hull.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlZXAKZIE78 And the first successful run going very slow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NdHDeCOKr8
Last edited by Foxvalleypcgeek; 07-11-2016 at 09:26 AM.
#55
What prop do you have on it? sounds like it can swing a bigger one and is cavitating (prop spinning but not biting) a lot. looks good overall though, make sure you drive by close and see that it is peeing out water nice from your water outlets.
#56
I havent got my nice prop yet. Thats just the bonzi prop that was almost free with the outdrive package (70mm and 105mm pitch). I had it as close to the surface as well because of it dying when i pushed the back end down i messaged you about. Now i can start adjusting the depth.
Last edited by Foxvalleypcgeek; 07-12-2016 at 09:39 AM.
#57
My Feedback: (1)
Zoom Zoom Whats your pipe length set at ? Did you follow Zipps Pipe set up info?
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....age=page&id=26
Take the Spit tube (or little black Zenoah Velocity stack) off the carb if u still have it on
What carb did you use ? What did you set it too? I use that engine and pipe (same ) on a couple so should Zoom Zoom bit better than video
Make sure you 'Range Test' that radio before you run out there a bit
Looks like will be fun boat
Randy
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....age=page&id=26
Take the Spit tube (or little black Zenoah Velocity stack) off the carb if u still have it on
What carb did you use ? What did you set it too? I use that engine and pipe (same ) on a couple so should Zoom Zoom bit better than video
Make sure you 'Range Test' that radio before you run out there a bit
Looks like will be fun boat
Randy
Last edited by mistycreekboats; 07-12-2016 at 12:27 PM.
#58
Zoom Zoom Whats your pipe length set at ? Did you follow Zipps Pipe set up info ?http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....page&id=26Take the Spit tube (or little black Zenoah Velocity stack) off the carb if u still have it on What carb did you use ? What did you set it too? I use that engine on a couple so should Zoom Zoom bit better than video Make sure you 'Range Test' that radio before you run out there a bit Looks like will be fun boat Randy
Last edited by Foxvalleypcgeek; 07-12-2016 at 12:30 PM.
#59
My Feedback: (1)
13.5 should be good starting point - did you trim the extra header length off (inside pipe) - sometimes guys forget to do that
try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out
Sounds like your close
What prop did you order ??
try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out
Sounds like your close
What prop did you order ??
#60
13.5 should be good starting point - did you trim the extra header length off (inside pipe) - sometimes guys forget to do that
try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out
Sounds like your close
What prop did you order ??
try
The low needle is between 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 turns out
The high needle is between 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out
Sounds like your close
What prop did you order ??
All I know about the prop from Dasboata is its a 3 blade stainless, I don't actually know the measurements.
For the fun of it I tried a smaller 3 blade aluminum prop still here from the enforcer 57 boat, and this boat did not like it one bit, it felt light I had no turning with extremely wide turns. That came off in a hurry.
#61
Whats the best way to add on to the exhaust so it can reach the end of the boat, as I'm sure it'll need to be shorter to reach its peak? I got a 3" offset header and kind of wish I got a 2" or something so I have an extra inch to play with.
#62
My Feedback: (1)
With a 3" the pipe ends up almost tight to the bend
Make sure you trim extra off and that its all tight
Make sure carb is tight and no tubes etc on face
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=288
or
if u need just a bit use
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=214
and piece silicone hose to seal to outlet
Make sure you trim extra off and that its all tight
Make sure carb is tight and no tubes etc on face
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=288
or
if u need just a bit use
http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=214
and piece silicone hose to seal to outlet
Last edited by mistycreekboats; 07-12-2016 at 12:59 PM.
#63
My Feedback: (1)
Gizmo has a cool outlet I use too
http://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php...st-pipe-detail
Pipe of alum tube and silicone hose and you can fab your own pretty cheap
Bonzi and you can fab own as well if you want color
http://www.bonzisports.com/store/bon...ust-p-131.html
Both Gizmos and Bonzis are big enough ID to run extension pipe through
http://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php...st-pipe-detail
Pipe of alum tube and silicone hose and you can fab your own pretty cheap
Bonzi and you can fab own as well if you want color
http://www.bonzisports.com/store/bon...ust-p-131.html
Both Gizmos and Bonzis are big enough ID to run extension pipe through
#64
Scott just so you know Randy...Misty creek boats is a good source of info.We give each other crap sometimes LOL but he does know his stuff and is a good guy to take advice from, What he is talking about cutting is the amount of header that is beyond the water cooling section of the chamber, just leave a little past the second ring in there, Do not cut it super close but do not leave it stock length either with a mod motor the pipe being right is important. You will get it dialed in and do not except slow speeds just because its a big boat anything less then 50 mph even as a new builder means something is still not correct.
Last edited by expresscraft; 07-12-2016 at 05:05 PM.
#66
Talking about the header pipe that the chamber slides on to, They are normally longer then they need to be, so the extra header pipe way inside the header needs to be removed but still past the second O-ring in the pipe is it even is water cooled at that joint I really can not see the pipe you have so if its just held on with a hose clamp then cut the header just past the contact area. I will get my phone and call you.Like always nice talking with you. HAVE FUN.
Last edited by expresscraft; 07-12-2016 at 05:02 PM.
#68
My Feedback: (1)
Any extra pipe you have from Header being long that goes PAST THE CLAMPING SURFACE of the pipe
Diff pipe but you get idea
One header is cut (1" Header pipe) bottom pipe in picture
Top is not cut yet (7/8" Header pipe New) top in picture
Measure from flange - around the center of pipe - to the center ring of pipe - try for 13.5" (hard with 3" bend)
Any extra header pipe protruding inside must be trimed off or "Pipe" will not work right
WE ARE TALKING ABOUT TRIMMING THE EXTRA OFF THE HEADER PIPE ONLY --- NOT THE TUNED PIPE
Last edited by mistycreekboats; 07-12-2016 at 08:46 PM.
#69
My Feedback: (1)
Your boat will be WAY LOW on power as the Pipe can not work if the header extends past the first part of Pipe clamping area
I know your pipe is not water cooled there
I was just showing how far the "Header" should go in the "Pipe"
Cut the extra off - readjust carb and Zoom Zoom again
I'm sure it will improve greatly
WE ARE TALKING ABOUT TRIMMING THE EXTRA OFF THE HEADER PIPE ONLY --- NOT THE TUNED PIPE
and REMEMBER you can always cut 2 or 3 times if its to long
BUT you can't add it back if you cut too much
Last edited by mistycreekboats; 07-12-2016 at 08:44 PM.
#70
My Feedback: (1)
As a note I have run that Gizmo 30 and Zipp Pipe (still do run it) and when you get closer it will plain haul butt. This is only little 40" but the Giz runs pretty good.
When you get your tune and prop closer it will "Sing" to you - 30 is in little black/blue boat here the Red boat is having set up issues in video as you can see
https://youtu.be/qNAhiiGem2M
When you get your tune and prop closer it will "Sing" to you - 30 is in little black/blue boat here the Red boat is having set up issues in video as you can see
https://youtu.be/qNAhiiGem2M
Last edited by mistycreekboats; 07-12-2016 at 04:52 PM.
#71
Ill have to cut that part off when i remove to replace the o ring in the flange. It was already in rough shape i noticed with some of it burnt up. I bought a pack of 20 today from my fastenal buddy for 40 some cents rated for 450 degrees i believe.
Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.
I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.
I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
#72
My Feedback: (1)
I had it hooked up to a hose and spent nearly an entire bag of gas turning the needles and giving it gas while holding on to it. 1 1/2 seemed the best on L, the H does look like it can go leaner but I left it there for the meantime, it gets hard to hold onto by myself with 1 hand lol. At first I had it set running on a picnic table and ended up way too lean on the L, once it was in the water it would die with any pressure on the rear<script id="gpt-impl-0.28389184261593214" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_91.js"></script> end. It should be very close indeed!
All I know about the prop from Dasboata is its a 3 blade stainless, I don't actually know the measurements.
For the fun of it I tried a smaller 3 blade aluminum prop still here from the enforcer 57 boat, and this boat did not like it one bit, it felt light I had no turning with extremely wide turns. That came off in a hurry.
All I know about the prop from Dasboata is its a 3 blade stainless, I don't actually know the measurements.
For the fun of it I tried a smaller 3 blade aluminum prop still here from the enforcer 57 boat, and this boat did not like it one bit, it felt light I had no turning with extremely wide turns. That came off in a hurry.
Basic Tuning info - might help understand a bit better why to trim header and carb settings
Boats will not "Tune Well" on land - it will be close but not really the same
On land it has no real 'Load" on it so the engine will act diff when you 'load it up'
Better to be "fat then Skinny" on how rich/lean carb is set
Often they 'sound good ' on land then die in water when they are fat or lean
Start a bit fat then lean it down on the water - once you trim the header the "Tuned Pipe" will act like "Supercharger " and drawn way more air and fuel in
With the header being long the pipe chambers can't work - so no real supercharging and motor wants to die when you 'overload' it with fuel and the extra 'load' of spinning the prop in the water
Just my view
And yes Tom and I don't always see eye to eye - but always agreeing wouldn' be any fun now would it
LOL
Randy
#73
Basic Tuning info - might help understand a bit better why to trim header and carb settings
Boats will not "Tune Well" on land - it will be close but not really the same
On land it has no real 'Load" on it so the engine will act diff when you 'load it up'
Better to be "fat then Skinny" on how rich/lean carb is set
Often they 'sound good ' on land then die in water when they are fat or lean
Start a bit fat then lean it down on the water - once you trim the header the "Tuned Pipe" will act like "Supercharger " and drawn way more air and fuel in
With the header being long the pipe chambers can't work - so no real supercharging and motor wants to die when you 'overload' it with fuel and the extra 'load' of spinning the prop in the water
Just my view
And yes Tom and I don't always see eye to eye - but always agreeing wouldn' be any fun now would it
LOL
Randy
Boats will not "Tune Well" on land - it will be close but not really the same
On land it has no real 'Load" on it so the engine will act diff when you 'load it up'
Better to be "fat then Skinny" on how rich/lean carb is set
Often they 'sound good ' on land then die in water when they are fat or lean
Start a bit fat then lean it down on the water - once you trim the header the "Tuned Pipe" will act like "Supercharger " and drawn way more air and fuel in
With the header being long the pipe chambers can't work - so no real supercharging and motor wants to die when you 'overload' it with fuel and the extra 'load' of spinning the prop in the water
Just my view
And yes Tom and I don't always see eye to eye - but always agreeing wouldn' be any fun now would it
LOL
Randy
#74
My Feedback: (1)
Ill have to cut that part off when i remove to replace the o ring in the flange. It was already in rough shape i noticed with some of it burnt up. I bought a pack of 20 today from my fastenal buddy for 40 some cents rated for 450 degrees i believe.
Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.
I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
Also set screws for the drive dog. I missed loctite on them and they were short lived. Ended up finding pan head screws in the garage that fit the threads and just cut them down some as they were over an inch long. Im sure those 2 big headed screws created some drag as well. I know they were good at grabbing weeds.
I didnt open it up much as i was too nervous to flip and or crash it already. But ill get more brave just like my drone which i was nervous as hell when i first got. It does sound a lot louder then the enforcer boat thats for sure, without even going fast.
Yea order some set screws - we all loose the ------------- as a note you should be pretty much using a touch of blue Loctite on "Everything" in your boat ------- they vibrate everything off
A boat with a inline rudder will handle diff with a 2 blade vs a 3 blade - they steer differently - you have to find what works and Chris (Dashbota) is a wiz at that prop magic
More 'seat time' and will work bugs out -- guys here will help (and many other sites as well)
Zoom Zoom