lfw03

I was recently cleaning out my attic and dug out my dad's old gas powered RC boat that was left to me when he passed away. ...I don't know much about it, other than it runs on 2 stroke, the motor says "Hanson" on it..... I have the remote and the controls seem to work (throttle and rudder). It is missing a prop and flexshaft..... I just don't know what type/size to buy for the prop and shaft, or anything else I would need to get her up and running. Any help is appreciated ! Thanks !

crapshooter

well the Hanson engine is a Zenoah Brand [ good engines ] the flex shaft diameter will be 1/4 inch and its either a square end that fits into engine collet or a normal round end , can you see a square hole on the shaft end of engine or something that looks like a drill chuck that you do up with a spanner ? can,t see in pics. for normal boating fun any prop such as 275 / 472 x 2 blade or a 6719 x 3 blade will get this cat hull going well. you maybe should check the condition of both the transmitter and receiver batteries and buy some new ones if needed. some pics of the rear of hull would be nice .

lfw03

Thanks a lot! I put some new batteries in the receiver and the controller already and both servos respond well, I can see the rear of the motor where the shaft goes in, its round. Is there a "standard " length for the shaft ? Or do I order one and cut it to length ? Also, is there any seal that goes on the shaft when I put it through the hull? Sorry for all the questions .... haha.

crapshooter

you need to buy the normal 1/4 inch diameter flex shaft , measure roughly the length you think it should be and buy something close to length then you will have to cut it to size once you insert thiis shaft in the strut end and into the motors collet. now what you must do before you cut the shaft is buy the prop you going to use plus you will need whats called a Drive Dog, this is what holds the prop on the shaft then the end nut goes on for tension. fit the drive dog on the shaft then the prop then the nut allow atleast 1/2 inch of shaft thread protruding out from nut this is incase you need extra length you will have it spare , then fit the shaft into strut then motor collet and measure how much needs to be cut off the end, allow 1/4 inch extra length for clearance between strut end and drive dog. [ show us a pic of the rear side of boat where the strut is please ] when you have cut the new shaft end to length it should be silver soldered at the tip so the winding of the flex doesn,,t undo. no seal needed as long as there is a brass tube for the flex shaft to run in is fitted.

lfw03

Thank again ! You've been a great help. I'm shopping for props online now. I stopped by my local hobby shop, but they don't stock any props or shafts for the boat. They said they would be able to upgrade my radio and receiver though since this is apparently "old school". Is the gas/oil mix on these motors 50:1? Like a normal outboard motor?

danielplace

The ratio for these little high performance engines is 16:1 - 12.8:1
8-10 ounces per gallon sounds like a enormous amount of oil but these small bore high rpm engine that are usually run full bore need that much oil or the lower rod bearing will take a dump prematurely.
Most prefer to use a quality synthetic. It is wise to do a small batch in a glass jar to be certain the oil you are using will mix and stay mixed with the fuel your using. Non ethanol is the preferred fuel.

Justaddwata

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Cool Boat!!!

Sorry to hear the circumstances under which you got her but good to hear you are going to get her wet.
One thing I would encourage is to find a local group of boaters in your area. While there are not many boaters they are usually very social and welcoming of others with a shared interest. They might be able to assist with tips and tricks of getting the boat going safely. Plus it is HIGHLY recommended to always boat with a friend (Safer and more fun).

Keep us posted!!

lfw03

Thanks again guys, did some more digging around and found a 275 "Prather" prop. Ordering a flex shaft, drive dog and some other miscellaneous things now... going to put some new fuel hoses on, clean her up and try to get her running next weekend, ill let you know how it goes! Thanks again for everyone's help!!

expresscraft

If it does not start pretty easy. it's not uncommon for the diaphragms in the carb to go bad. look up gizmo motors.com or zippkits.com, They are both great suppliers for parts. the 275 prop is great for the G-23 motor you have. A new carb might cost around 30.00 bucks but it will be worth it. make sure you leave a little gap between the drive dog and back of strut. So put drive dog and prop on shaft. probably 22' insert into stuffing box from the back of boat through the strut. make sure collet on motor is loose as far as chuck part goes. cable should slide in without help. if it does not then the engine is not aligned right with stuffing box, Might be the reason the cable failed on your dad. Make sure cable goes all the way in to the back of collet. now measure the distance from the back of stut to the front of drive dog you already have in place. now minus 1/4" from that number. So you are going to cut off a 1/4 less then that number from the front of the cable once you pull the whole assembly back out out.. So when you put it all back in there is a 1/4 gap between the front of your drive dog and the rear of your strut. !/4" might be a little more of a gap then needed. but for now be safe. when you give the boat gas and the prop has a load on it the cable tightens up and shrinks some, driving the Drive dog into the strut. unless you make this gap. also greese cable up good before putting it into the stuffing tube. once all the way in place. before tightening collet make sure is turns freely.If it does tighten your collet. should be a 5/8 and 9/16 wrenches. If it does not turn freely you still have a alignment problem to fix. sometimes as easy as losening engine mount bolts, moving motor into place then retightening them. Not such a problem today. but when you would pull start some of the motors with the mounts we had back then you would pull your motor out of perfect alignment. Best to keep one hand supporting motor when pulling and not holding boat. Todays mounts with better rubber grommets are much better then what we had back in the G-23 days.

crapshooter

yes the first engine mount rubbers we used on the early G-23 Zenoahs were from automobile radiator mounts.

danielplace

I remember using the rubber isolators used to mount Harley oil tanks to the frame. Really just standard generic rubber isolators used for many applications.

lfw03

Awesome ! Thanks again! Great forum, Oh, how fast should I expect this thing to go ? I have enough room to run it (family has a waterfront on a creek here off the Chesapeake bay ), just want to have a heads up of what I'm getting myself into...

expresscraft

45mph. would be a good goal, the boat could go a little faster, but getting that last 10% takes experience that you do not have yet. BUT getting it is part of the fun of boating. A gps is a great way to see how fast you are really going. it could go 38 mph and you will think it's 60. If you do get into the hobby more, do not make the 2 port G-23 you have the foundation you work around, If you do not like boating it will not be because of that motor they are great. But if you say hay!! I am playing with my boat a lot and start to put money into boating get the 29cc zenoha., not the 320. but even a stock 29 will out run what you have and its a 4 port motor, Much better foundation to work around, We Manufacture hulls so it's hard for me to say the motor is the foundation. But in most cases the motors cost more then the hulls if Modified. Gizmo motors is still a great source for mod motors as well. I know the hull you have can run good. so you have a good boat no matter what. I might have the name wrong even though I remember racing against those hulls often, But I think its a Blazer Top Gun hull. (maybe) lots of fiberglass fumes over the years. I get to claim drain bamage. Also you know that set up is early to mid 90's

SS RC Boats

One thing i did notice that no one has mentioned,the first pic in your post #5 your stuffing tube is not attached to your strut. The loose stuffing tube can also cause flex breakages because the tube and flex can wobble around in that area. I would recommend trying to get the stuffing tube to fit into strut blade. Also grease flex before installing into stuffing tube and keep greased properly,but don't put grease on the tip of flex which goes inside collet,that can cause the flex shaft to slip. If you hear a "howling" type noise after a few minutes of running check your flex because the grease may have come off and the flex will be spinning inside a dry stuffing tube which will also be a disaster.

Happy Boating!

crapshooter

yes that shaft log and strut is set up for the 2 piece stub / feral / flexshaft. the flex is joined to the feral and grub screwed to the stub shaft.

SS RC Boats

Yeah i figured but didn't want to assume thats the way it was set up. No worries

danielplace

I think blowing over is going to be what limits the boats speed as it is setup. The CG appears to be way back there.

lfw03

Should i try to get some weight up in bow portion of
the hull ?

danielplace

I guess you will know when you run it but yes it appears by looking at it to be pretty tail heavy. You may need a little weight up front as negative in the strut to keep it down will negatively effect the handling in the corners.