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proove pulling hard to the left

Old 04-10-2017, 04:30 AM
  #26  
Ron Olson
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Originally Posted by crapshooter
blew the bearing seals hey. bet i know what crankcase you had the bearings in.
Three guesses and the first 2 don't count!
I've been running this brand for years and never a problem then 3 went almost at once, one a new 265.
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Old 04-10-2017, 06:25 PM
  #27  
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he means the washer behind the prop nut, i would remove it as this will give more thread for the nut to go into as it does look abit short, you don,t want the prop to fall off due to the nut coming off the thread. the turn fins look fine to me as the starboard side fin is always longer on oval race monos. any more news on the problem ?
Old 04-10-2017, 07:43 PM
  #28  
ob nut
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Best person to ask about the Pro-V is Joe. Email or call his number listed on the site.
Old 04-10-2017, 07:51 PM
  #29  
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One more thing to look at, is the transom flat? I did some serious clamping when I attached mine. There's a few places on the hull that I used levels and flat steel stock.
Old 04-10-2017, 08:40 PM
  #30  
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Ron, thought it was the rcmk case. there have been several complaints about bearing seals popping with this brand also another brand that has a billet casing. as you know what the cause is with the full circle cranks and very tight case tolerances there is alot of internal case pressure which causes the seal to just pop off the bearing. i think there is a new plate available that contacts the front bearing face so the seal stays put.
Old 04-11-2017, 03:41 AM
  #31  
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have not had a chance to get to the pond yet. there is no washer and prop nut is not coming off. got a lot of info from joe. maybe all straitened out now just need to test , test ,test
Old 04-11-2017, 01:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by crapshooter
Ron, thought it was the rcmk case. there have been several complaints about bearing seals popping with this brand also another brand that has a billet casing. as you know what the cause is with the full circle cranks and very tight case tolerances there is alot of internal case pressure which causes the seal to just pop off the bearing. i think there is a new plate available that contacts the front bearing face so the seal stays put.
Some are replacing them with better seals like those from Zenoah. There is also a brass plate that goes between the inner and outer bearings to help keep from them blowing the seals out. I bought a bunch of high-quality bearings on eBay so I've got spares for when the others go.
RCMK cheaped out at a place where you shouldn't.
Old 05-01-2017, 02:43 AM
  #33  
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ok I ran the prove this weekend and it now goes strait ,turns both ways and hauls -ss thank for the help guys
Old 05-30-2017, 07:04 PM
  #34  
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I finally got mine on the water Sunday after blowing the engine last summer. It went straight and fast but maybe a little nose-heavy which I expected as the pull-start I used is really heavy, a lot more than an Easy-Start. It should be fine for rough water conditions though.
Old 05-30-2017, 08:51 PM
  #35  
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what type of pull start are you using Ron to make the hull abit nose heavy ? sounds odd.
Old 05-31-2017, 11:12 AM
  #36  
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It's one that I got from out of China. Somebody actually put some thought into this one as there's no starter cup but a piece that bolts onto the flywheel itself instead of the threaded on cup. It wasn't cheap at $70.00 but for those who put a lot of time on their boats it may be worth it.
Picture 2 shows a standard starter (right), Zenoah Easy-Starter (left) and the new one in the middle.
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Last edited by Ron Olson; 05-31-2017 at 11:16 AM.
Old 05-31-2017, 04:27 PM
  #37  
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see what you mean Ron, its a nice starter pawl though.
Old 05-31-2017, 06:59 PM
  #38  
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I found where I got it at but took a while;
Arrow Shark XP254M V2 Series-ProPackge
Old 06-09-2017, 10:34 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by fuma
there is over 1/4 inch gap at the drive dog, what washer? there is no washer and why more threads behind prop? I did mount turnfins In holes by zippkitts starboard holes too high or too low from zipp
That isn't enough gap I can tell you that. The drive dog is going to be all up on the drive. Put a thick towel over end of shaft and shove it forward as hard as you can with the palm of your hand and you will see it doesn't take much force to make it hit the drive. The prop pushes harder than you can.

He is telling you to take out the washer you have between the nut and prop because you want some thread coming all the way through the nut. Bottom line is you need a new cable as that one is too short and don't set the drive dog so far back so you have plenty of thread for the nut and then cut it longer so you can get a better gap between the dog and the drive. That is going to tear the shaft apart before too long if the dog is hitting the drive and I can tell you it is for sure hitting at that little gap. If that is a 1/4" then you better try 3/8" at least.

The rudder lines need to be cut off straight and put fully on the fittings and tywrapped are going to blow off and cook your engine.

You never want a Champion sparkplug in a boat as it will drop ceramic in the engine and destroy it. Get a NGK CMR7H plug for it.

A 6" rudder standoff is always a better handling setup on any mono I have ever tried a 4" and a 6" on. Never did the 4" work better than a 6" and on many the 4" made it handle terribly compared to a 6". The rudder on a mono wants to be out well beyond the prop many experiments with rudder length have shown time after time. The 4" isn't a deal breaker but if you had a 6" you wouldn't believe the difference in how it would smooth out the cornering.

Last edited by danielplace; 06-09-2017 at 03:42 PM.
Old 07-09-2017, 08:09 AM
  #40  
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I ran mine yesterday for a few minutes and had a problem with it leaning to the right. Joe suggested using a 2716 so I put one on. It didn't seem to have the problem with a 2714/3 so I'll go back to that and do some right trim tab lowering to see if that helps. I had to input a lot of left rudder to keep it straight. It's a good prop BTW as I'll check each one for balance and sharpness even if they're supposed to be ready to rock out of the package.
Old 07-09-2017, 12:57 PM
  #41  
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Ron, it sounds like the added prop pitch is causing the hull to lift the port side . only good fix is to offset the drive line to the starboard side , dropping a trim tab is going to cause some drag even though it will work.
Old 05-05-2018, 09:12 AM
  #42  
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Fuma, I like your paint job. What paint did you use so it would be gasoline proof?
Old 05-07-2018, 08:38 AM
  #43  
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I am ashamed to say it but it is rattle can. and don't spill anything on it
Old 05-08-2018, 06:44 PM
  #44  
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I didn't run mine much last year but I've got an idea and if it works I'll let you all know. I'll get it on my next order to Zippkits.
Old 05-20-2018, 02:02 PM
  #45  
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OK, here's what I got last Saturday and installed it but it'll have to wait until at least next weekend to see if it helped.
Gas Rudder Extension- 6 Inch [3575] - $12.00 : Welcome to Zippkits!
Old 06-16-2018, 04:26 PM
  #46  
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OK, I'm finally updating. The weather here has been lousy the last few weekends. Today I got a few runs in with other boats then tossed the Pro-Vee in the water. Unfortunately it didn't run long as it died after being on the water for a minute. After bringing it in I found a cooling lane can off. Right from the launch though it seems to drive a lot better with the longer rudder arm on it as it was going straight without having to give it left rudder. It seemed to help immensely.

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