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Prowler boat build

Old 05-16-2017, 04:38 PM
  #26  
danielplace
 
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I usually knock out the brass bushing sleeve or integral bushings if it has that in the strut and run the stuffing tube continuous to the back of the stinger/strut. That way it ensures no leaky mess and that the bushing will get plenty of lube from the spiral flex forcing it to the rear.

This keeps the drive all lined up and prevents cable from binding or wollering in any gaps.
Old 05-26-2017, 09:13 AM
  #27  
mwohlenhaus
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Does anyone have any pictures of their zippkits stinger set up, or a description of how it is done. My question is referring to the flex shaft to ferrule to straight shaft fit. Where does the thrust washer go in the grand scheme of things. With the thrust washer what kind of gap should I leave for the square drive flex shaft to wind up? My understanding of the setup is that tapered side of the ferrule gets soldered onto flex cable, the set screw side goes into the 1/4 shaft/file the shaft so the set screws recess in their holes. Shaft goes through the stinger then washer-bearing-washer-dog-prop-nut. A picture is worth a thousand words. I ran into a snag when I called zippkits for prop recommendation. The prop he suggested was for a 454 sport for 3/16 shaft. He further explained and it made sense that boat props are not like airplane props, they need rpm's and if too big a prop is used the motor will heat up. So i am now going to need to machine down the 1/4" shaft to accept the 3/16 prop bore/drive dog. Assembly will in essence still be the same though.
Old 05-26-2017, 04:09 PM
  #28  
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I've never run one of these with a motor like you're using so I'm not sure what to suggest, but I wouldn't use a prop that needs a 3/16 shaft. Maybe try a X470 or X472. DOUG
Old 05-26-2017, 05:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mwohlenhaus
Does anyone have any pictures of their zippkits stinger set up, or a description of how it is done. My question is referring to the flex shaft to ferrule to straight shaft fit. Where does the thrust washer go in the grand scheme of things. With the thrust washer what kind of gap should I leave for the square drive flex shaft to wind up? My understanding of the setup is that tapered side of the ferrule gets soldered onto flex cable, the set screw side goes into the 1/4 shaft/file the shaft so the set screws recess in their holes. Shaft goes through the stinger then washer-bearing-washer-dog-prop-nut. A picture is worth a thousand words. I ran into a snag when I called zippkits for prop recommendation. The prop he suggested was for a 454 sport for 3/16 shaft. He further explained and it made sense that boat props are not like airplane props, they need rpm's and if too big a prop is used the motor will heat up. So i am now going to need to machine down the 1/4" shaft to accept the 3/16 prop bore/drive dog. Assembly will in essence still be the same though.
I had the same problem once and just bored out the prop and drive dog to 1/4" from the 3/16" It's only 1/16",meaning 1/32 on each side of the prop bore.I used a couple of bits to get to 1/4" and didn't take it all at one time.
I even bore out the 10-32 water fittings to 1/8" to get more water flow when using 5/32 water lines.

Last edited by Tidnab; 05-27-2017 at 02:34 AM.
Old 05-28-2017, 02:31 PM
  #30  
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I was looking and it looks like the octura x467 is about the smallest 1/4" bore I can get and still have the 1.4 pitch. I tried drilling out a drive dog with no success, so I may just order that and See where it takes me, I am not looking forward to sharpening and balancing it, but like the idea of paying a shop 20-$30 to do it even less!
Old 05-28-2017, 03:16 PM
  #31  
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I could be wrong, but I think a X467 will be too small. Doug
Old 05-28-2017, 03:18 PM
  #32  
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you should get used to sharpening and balancing props as this is definetly not hard to do for anyone i might add. by the time you get someone to do this job that would pay for a good balancer and all you need then is a file or two and some fine sandpaper to finish off. so think about this as it is fun to work on your own gear. also as mentioned, don,t run a 3/16 inch shaft on a gas powered hull [ 1/4 inch is a must ] plus you have bugger all variety of props to try with 3/16 inch i.d. 470 - 472 - 270 - 275 try any of these as there all good.

Last edited by crapshooter; 05-28-2017 at 03:30 PM.
Old 05-29-2017, 08:27 AM
  #33  
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If you do sharpen and balance a prop yourself use at least a dust mask. Most of these props are beryllium copper and the beryllium is definitely not good for you. Doug
Old 07-27-2017, 07:02 PM
  #34  
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so I am horrible about doing pic/video documentation. I get started with a part of the project and don't want to stop to take a pic. but here is the latest pics I have. the first one is right before the deck got glued on. The second one is with the deck and wind screen glued on. The third one is with prop mounted on stinger. Fourth is the fuel bag hook. The fifth was my attempt at balancing. Which I did not end up needing the extra weight.
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:28 PM
  #35  
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here is the almost finished boat and my daughter driving it on the river on it's maiden voyage. She did a good job for never having driven anything rc before. She did run it aground in the muck of the riverbank, but it was a two-fold blessing. One it was uncomfortably low on gas, and two one of the strut screws had vibrated out in the drink, and the other one was very loose. I ended up getting about 10-12 minutes run time on about 200CC's of fuel. This thing is a gas hog compared to it's life as a weed eater! It went pretty decent for what it is, turned good too. I did notice in lower speed turns the prop cavitated pretty bad. I ended up removing some of the baffling in the muffler and boring the carb to about 10mm. It runs pretty darn good. I did not completely gut the muffler because I don't want to aggravate the surroundings residents. I did have the cavity behind the electronics about 1/2-3/4 full of water after it's maiden voyage. I have since siliconed the hole for the rudder pushrood shut except for a small sleeve for the push rod to go through, and I sealed the rest of the area around the cover with silicone. The hole that was for the rudder was almost as big as the opening that was machined in the rudder so I think this will greatly help keep water out. Very little water (about a tablespoon and a half at most) got into the engine bay and it was all on the right side so it makes me think the right turns got a little sharp and water splashed in. I floated it for a bit before driving off into the depths of the river (and more importantly the dam), and I did not see any noticeable water leaks. All in all it was a fun project that I can see being upgraded to a bigger motor in the future.
I did end up sharpening and crudely balancing the prop. It isn't watch out or it will cut fingers off sharp but it has a little bit of an edge on it.
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:51 PM
  #36  
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here are some more of the almost finished boat (it is sea worthy, but is any home-built project ever really all done?)
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Old 07-27-2017, 08:00 PM
  #37  
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http://
so any comments/questions/concerns, tips thus far? a little nerve racking, but she did pretty good.

Last edited by mwohlenhaus; 07-27-2017 at 08:09 PM.
Old 07-27-2017, 09:17 PM
  #38  
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looks like you have done a good job with this project. just a couple of things you might want to do are; fit a new spark plug and i don,t trust those ball / socket type links you have on the carby as they do come off , try and use the better type that has the ball in built to the nylon connector. have fun.
Old 07-28-2017, 04:33 AM
  #39  
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just put your cable in your stuffing tube with geese,, the geese the whole way up your tube will keep the water out. no o rings needed, Re grease from time to time will also keep your cable in great shape. (sorry) thought I was at last post about your cable, boat looks good.

Last edited by expresscraft; 07-28-2017 at 04:35 AM.

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