tsunami

im looking at a larege nitro boat (hydro , similer to a deaver to those who now drag boats ) and am wondering will it add any ease of running if i put a gas and clucht
i dont want super impressive runs as this hull ha salready been shown to do more than i want
78+ is to much for me im looking for 35-50 boat thanx
ohh and can i run a new weed eater with a pipe or even with the silencer im not goin for speed just to keep with my freinds magnum 57

the boats all their but need to put back together he just rebuilt the nitro engine
is this worth 150 bucks plane starter and fuel is also in the deal
im guessin its bout 4 foot but am not shure

WELDIT

I'VE GOT A COUPLE DAYS TO PLAY WITH THIS BOAT, TOO TAKE THE THE 220 OFF
AND PUT THE 270 ON THE BOAT,DO I NEED TO MAKE THE OUT DRIVE LONGER
TO PUT THE WHOLE PROP IN THE WATER, HOW LONG IS TO LONG ON THE OUT DRIVE. IM NOT RACING,

christian2170

Hey guy's

Iv'e got a 57 Aeromarine signature with a stock g23. I am currently building a 47 inche race mono that looks like the Radio active Hobbies Equilizer. I bought the hull on ebay for 120.00. It looks to be a fast boat but I will let you know. I'm going to set it up with afull mod g260. Has anyone tried one of these hulls?

Raydee-delete

Nitromedic, Sorry for the late response. I haven't really been on this board lately after the change, personally I hate it! But anyway my CG is set at 34% and to give you the measurement where the center of my header is will actually be misleading to you and the wrong way to find the correct CG of you boat. Here is the correct way to find CG if you didn't know.

First you need to set up ypur hardware and then put everything you are going to run in the general location that you plan on running it.....EVERYTHING. Then figure 34% of your boat length...mine was around 14.5". This is where the hull needs to balance. now take your engine with the mounts on and place it in the boat and balance it on a stick or something right at the cg mark. Move the engine back or forth until the boat balances, then mark the mounting holes and drill away. Now after the boat is all done you can use the fuel tank to fine tune the CG.

I think that many boaters get confused about how to install an engine and find the correct CG. If I would have went by the blue print on my boat I would have the engine at about 11.5" from the transom which is about 2.5" too far back for the correct CG. So far with my bone stock engine I am getting 48.1mph on my GPS and I have never had the boat close to blowing over. I figure after the engine is full modded it will be close to the low 60's.

rcnutman

My Feedback: (22)

i have a prather lapcat 1 tunnel hull 3.5(for sale in boats) nitro
I also just recieved my w-hobbies enforcer super g------gas
anyone own a super g how is it???

swashdrive

Heah guys
I got a 1/4 scale jetsprint witha 23cc Zenoah running a swashdrive jet.
I may be biast in my opinions but it goes like a bat out of hell and is real hard to kill
I also have the same boat with a Conley V8 but thats nitro[:-]
Anyway its good to see alot of different boats and all are excellent in there one way.

Regards
Craig

WELDIT

I,M STILL WORKING ON THIS OUT DRIVE MY ? IS HOW LONG CAN THE OUT DRIVE
BE TO GET THIS 270 TO BE AT THE BOTTUM OF THE BOAT, AND WHAT DOES THE LENGHT DO TO THE ATTITUDE OF THE BOAT.......... THANKS

yamraptor2cool

I have a pro boat shockwave. It's fast enough but it needs to go faster. What kind of hop ups could I get for it?

IronicRcAv8r

My Feedback: (21)

Here's my 57" Osprey (Baja) WHH Zenoah G23

njs300zx

Hello

I have a F-41 Stryker hull with a Mid-West g260 super mod engine and a quickdraw pipe. This baby moves. Never clocked the boat but I would say its around 60mph. This boat is just for fun now but I am thinking about getting into racing. I'm in the long island , NY area. Does anyone race in this area? email me at [email protected]. Thanks

Nick

rcnutman

My Feedback: (22)

i am from the New hampshire-mass. area does anybody know of a boating club around here?????

torpedox

I've got several boats but my two favorites are my AC magnum .45 with a O.S. 65VR-M,and my 50"Aeromarine Apache w/BH Hanson G23 Zenoah. the AC is currently being dissasembled for a much needed cleaning, Polishing and engine overhaul. Awsome rough water boat , handles it much better than the Apache. (a whole lot faster too!)

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Ok guys .... basic rule of thumb ... for CG - if you are running a HIGH RPM motor with HP , then you CAN have the CG more to the front than normal ( and it will do the boat more justice ) , if you are running a weedie motor , then the best way is to figure with ALL hardware set as close to where will be and don;t forget to include the fuel tank . Makes sure that the fuel tank is as CLOSE to the CG BEFORE you add any items . Reason - the fuel tank varies too much in weight and should NOT be used for a weight distributor when figuring CG with all items ( motor , servos , RX , running hardware , etc ,etc )
On ANY weedie AND stock Zenoahs , a 270 is a GREAT basic prop to start with . With the weedies though , you MIGHT have to do a back-cut on it to allow it to load up . Certain weedies can also handle a 275 quite well . My suggestion would be to get a BC prop and NOT a SS for the first one . This way , you can do any bending or cutting a LOT easier than you can with a SS one .
For WELDIT , YES , by ALL means do NOT use that small prop any longer . Get that 270 on there ASAP and make sure that you do a back-cut on the prop , I found the best way to do that is with a handy-dandy dremel and a sanding barrel . They make the PERFECT size . Just make sure you do it as CLOSE to the hub of the prop and that you ONLY go NO further than HALF of the barrel sander . Also , a drive for a mono can be , in most cases , as far back as 6 inches from the transom . On average , 4 to 6 inches is the norm . Also , make the prop surface drive , not submerged .
You might also want to try a Octura 472 or a 470 , which are also GOOD basic starting props .
And one last word for those who do NOT know - when working with berrillium copper props ( which are the ones that are NOT stainless steel ) , take extra care to wash your arms and hands REAL good when done . Also use a face mask - the dust is VERY harmful to you !
Don;t forget - a balanced prop will run BETTER and also save on your drive . A sharpened prop will decrease prop walk ! The sharper it is , the less prop walk you get ! And BE CAREFUL , MANY fingers have become hamburger meat from sharpened props !

Oh yeah ... WELDIT - the weight of your boat RTR is NOT bad at all ! Do NOT let others try and convince you differently ! 14 pounds with a weedie motor RTR is a GOOD weight !

WELDIT

TURBObob

WELDIT

TUBRObob SOME TIMES I CAN'T EVEN GET THIS COMPUTOR TO WORK RIGHT I THINK I'TS ACTING RIGHT NOW SO THANKS FOR THE INFO THE PROP WAS READY
I'LL HAVE TO DO THE BACK CUT ON IT AND REBALNCE IT THE NEW OUTDRIVE ENDED UP BEING 6 1/2 TO THE PROP NUT NOT ALL THE PROP IS AT THE BOTTUM OF THE HULL AGAIN THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO

WELDIT

I GOT THE 270 ON AND TOOK IT FOR A DIP AND I WAS SURPRISED AT HOW MUCH THE DIFFENCE WAS IN FORWARD MOTION IT HAD. I'M HOOKED, I NEVER GOT PAST 1/4 THROTTLE I THOUGHT IT WAS TIME TO GO FAST, BUT THE BOAT WAS LEANING SO FAR TO THE RIGHT I THOUGHT IS WAS GOING TO TURN THE BOAT OVER. IT HAD A LITTLE TORQUE ROLL EVEN WITH THE 220 PROP ON TAKE OFF. BUT THE 270 SEEMED TO JUST GO, MY QUESTION IS DO I JUST ADD WEIGHT TO THE LEFT TO COUNTER THIS OR IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG IN THE OUTDRIVE SETUP. I'M HAVING FUN PLAYING WITH THIS, BUT I WANT TO GO FAST HELP ME OUT HERE. I'LL TRY TO GET A PICTURE ON HERE.

LtDoc

I would think that adding a trim plate to the 'low' side would be better than adding ballast. Wouldn't it?
- 'LtDoc

tsunami

logically yes butu it adds drag but wheight is weight. they both can be used to acheive a goal .in our dragboat we use weight before a blast plate adjustment.

WELDIT

I,VE GOT TRIM TABS ON THE BOAT BUT I,M NOT UP TO SPEED TO PLAY WITH THEM YET, THEY ARE STILL ON A POS ANGLE I,M GOING TO PULL THE PROP UP A LITTLE, AND PUT A FEW GRAMS ON THE LEFT SIDE. I,M GOING TO TAKE SOME WEIGHT WITH ME NEXT TIME. THE PIC. ARE SO BRITE ON THE BACK OF THIS THING IT JUST LOOKS LIKE A CROME BLURRRRRRR.

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

BIG question - did you sharpen the prop to be like a razor ? This reduces torque roll ( and prop walk ) a LOT .
As a reaction to the engine torque, ( counter-clockwise ) , the hull leans to the right - port side raises and starboard goes deeper into water. Some possible corrections for you to try are:
Move the strut to the right side of the keel (about an 1/8 inch NOT MORE ! ) the lifting force of the prop is now being applied more to the right, raising the starboard and correcting for the torque roll.
Also try lowering the starboard trim tab just a LITTLE !
Move everything to the left side that is not mounted to the hull (batteries , fuel tank, etc.)
Now , with your trim tabs , normally 2 are used on each side of the boat. The outside ones are for the behavior of the boat when doing turns, the inside ones are for the attitude when running straight . Angling downwards of the inside trim tabs , the adjustable portion , raises the transom, dropping the bow - the boat increases the wet area. On the other hand reducing the trim tabs angle - moving the adjustable section upwards will lower the transom and raise the bow, which in turn reduces the wet area.
Outer trim tabs act on turns. Remember, adjusting them to rise the transom makes the nose dig in on turns, making the turns sharper than may be desired .
Two things to note with trim tabs , first , if you have to adjust them more than just a little , then there is other problems that need to be dealt with .
Second , a little adjustment goes a LONG way .

WELDIT

TURBObob, I,VE GOT THE PROP AS SHARP AS I CAN GET WITHOUT TAKING TO MUCH METAL OFF.ALTHOUGH IT STILL TOOK RIGHT MUCH TO GET IT BALANCED. I THINK IT,S PRETTY SHARP. I ONLY HAVE OUTSIDE TABS ON IT RIGHT NOW, THEY MIGHT NOT BE BIG ENOUGH I JUST DON,T KNOW. THANKS FOR THE HELP, I,TS GOING TO GET WET AGAIN TODAY

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Whats the width/length of your trim tabs ? ( and , if you would , please also refresh my memory on the length of your hull also . )
If you take her to get wet to day , is there any chance of getting someone to go with you and take some pictures possibly ?

WELDIT

TERBObob, FIRST I NEED TO APOLOGIZE FOR MISSPELLING YOUR SCREEN NAME AND I'M SORRY. I DIDN'T GET TO TAKE THE BOAT OUT I COULD NOT GET AWAY FROM THE SHOP TODAY BUT THE TRANSIT IS 12 1/2" X 6 1/2" AND THE LENGHT IS 47" PLUS THE OUT DRIVE, AND I WOULD SAY ITS A DEEP- V LOOKING AT, THE TRIM TABS ARE 1 1/4" WIDE X 1 1/2" DEEP. WE TOOK SOME PICTURES OF THE BOAT AT THE SHOP BUT SINCE THE HULL IS S/S AND THE OUT DRIVE, IS ALUMINUM, IT WAS JUST A BIG BLURR. I HAVE GOT SOME PICTURES OF THE BOAT BUT I JUST DO NOT KNOW HOW TO POST THEM. I WILL TRY TO GET A CLEAR PICTURE. SO HERE IS MY QUESTION: DOES TORQUE ROLL STAY IN THE BOAT AT LOW, MED & HIGH RPM'S

WELDIT

HERE IT IS......[100_O463MA8488579][/img]

WELDIT

I SEE I NEED TO DO SOME MORE READING ON THIS STUPID COMPUTER, THERES ONE PIC ON MY GALLERY I'LL TRY TO DO BETTER TOMORROW WITH THE PICTURE THING.