retaobcr

RCBM mag.-- spring 2006 on page 14 has the volvo b-24- gas model-- price tag $750.00

bequiakt

Hey all.
I have not seen anything on a clutch for the v24.i am looking at that boat at tower hobby but will like to fit with clutch mods..

bequiakt

Hey ger. i ran some electrics in bequia in the last 2 years and found that imediately flushing with fresh water abd lottttssss of WD40.. that shud do it...

Recon8541

Hey Guys!

New V24 owner, and I gotta say there is a ton of info here. I have added an auto bailer, done the loctite, weatherstripped the cowling, and all seems ready for my first run. I only have one question. My throttle like many others here only opens half way. How did you guys adjust this to get it to open fully?

Hi-Tide

HI all You Guys That own The V24 , I also Own one of these boats, I ran It (2) times ,and now I have it all apart , Took all the paint off the bottom ,am tuning and Blue printing it , This boat Has alot of flaws ,Holes in bottom That are filled with Paint,not glass ,air in glass work, edges are sharp NOW I will Keep You Informed I should Have It Running In About A mounth, One Question , Why Is the rudder So Long, Why Is'nt about one In., Below bottom. Thank You Anthony HI- Tide

soundguykaraoke50

i have two of these boats,one is stock,the other has a bz3 from bonzi.my modded one is a joy to run the stock one is a lot slower.but i guess you get what you pay for.the third servo to trim on the fly is a nice touch,but i trimmed to far once,over she went.the bonzi motor made this boat come to life.its not an eazy transition though,because the motor rails are not 5 inches .they are more like5 3/4.some fab work .well worth the trouble.

soundguykaraoke50

i forgot to say that my bz 24 now sports a cluch from oneil brothers

R/C Novice

Hello! I am new to this hobby and have purchased three boats. The first...a V24; second, a SuperVee 27 FE; and most recently a BJ55. So far I have found the V24 to be very tempermental. I have never been able to get it to run right and it is difficult to work in the engine compartment. Secondly, it is difficult to set up in the water as it is a direct drive. Having said all of this I was writing to find out if anyone has set up a test stand to pump water through the existing lines. I am also curious if anyone has retrofitted the boat to use a waterpump and clutch. Any information would be quite useful...thanks!

hpiguy

You can always assemble a simple stand and then attached the garden hose to the inputs with some aquarium tubing and an adapter found at most hardware stores to convert the large garden hose down to a smaller size.

R/C Novice

Thank you for your response! I was not aware that there was some kind of reducer to adapt a garden hose. I will check that out. I asked my hobby shop owner before posting here and and he did not have an answer for me. So...this forum appears to be my best source. I am looking forward to being able to contribute as well when my experience improves.

I have had the V24 for a year. It did not run well out of the box and I was never able to keep it running except at 1/3 throttle no matter what adjustments I made to the carb. Many times when I backed out of it...it would die and I would have to retrieve it. Last summer I ran it in salt water. I cleaned it up real well but I am having trouble getting it to stay running. When it did run it handled very well.

I guess it is time for me to get intimate with this boat and take it all apart to determine how it is built and what may be wrong. Thanks again for the response!

halls

DID ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE EXHAUST HEADER PIPE CRANKING ? OR THE EXHAUST COUPLER ?? PLEASE TELL WHAT YOU DID TO FIX IT T-YOU

ewaho

Yes, the exhaust system parts are garbage. I am in the process of remaking mine out of stainless steel and changing the flow pattern so the engine can breathe easier.
I also followed a suggestion to add a bracket and hose clamp around the exhaust pipe to give it more support. Earier in these postings there are pictures of the bracket.
In general, this boat has a lot of issues and eventually I will change the engine to Zenoah 260 for more power and speed.
Good luck. Waho

halls

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE

RaceCraftRC

LOL I need this back up front BUMP

01VIPER27

My Feedback: (1)

I love the look of the boat and in all honesty the hardware is competitive for its price. The only real problem I had with this boat was the engine and the big hole where the pipe came out of. In my opinion, Aquacraft should have sold this boat without the engine as an option. Do not get me wrong, Aquacraft was good to honor all warranties but I decided to do a Zen260PUM transplant and that’s when the boat came to life.

The boat performs better on rough water than it would on calm water even with the stock engine and the reason is because it was purposely built as an off shore boat running a straight line with wide turns to do ovals. You will not be able to plane this boat on calm water with a stock Zen and clutch as the boat is bow heavy with all the glass work (its built like a tank), it will always run wet even with the TRIM all the way up. It will turn on a dime but it tends to barrel roll simply because it is not designed to do so.

In order for me to address both issues of planing and turning on calm water I had filled the spaces between the strakes on the 2nd and 3rd steps of the hull with fiberglass to add weight to the rear for to balance and better planing and turning ability on calm water. As for running it in rough water, it runs even better. I have just recently replaced the drive to make it scale like and run subsurface. As for my set up, the only thing I could do better on would be a MHZ, WD200, or RCMK stern drive married to a modded Zen or Quick Draw 30 for power plant.

New owner tips with stock set up.
-Remove engine and exhaust pipe. Remove each engine bolt one at a time systematically (so you don’t miss) and BLUE Loctite it back on and set aside with the exhaust pipe off.
-Add washer to fit where you do not see one and tighten all nuts and bolts on hardware with Blue Loctite.
-Repair / secure damaged rubber boots with CA glue then oil rod linkages for ease of function.
-Remove flex shaft assembly (stinger) from drive mount and LIGHTLY sand the white Teflon Bushing to fit snugly back on the drive mount.
-Separate Prop from stinger and pull the flex shaft out of the stinger. Use 5/64 steel bit and drill “A” hole on either side of the stinger just in front of the band for greasing purposes of the prop shaft. Remove all shavings and re-assemble the flex shaft assembly and grease with PRO BOAT’s grease gun and grease.
-Grease flex shaft and re-insert / secure onto drive.
-Leak test the boat with the engine and seal with fibreglass resin where needed or apply light RTV between hull and hardware.
-Mount engine without pipe onto boat making sure the flex shaft sits properly into the collet.
-Re-attach throttle cable to carb but do not secure. Remove radio box lid and turn “ON” TX and RX then throttle up and down and let is settle down. Use a drop of CA glue on either side of the radio box to secure the throttle cable sleeve and do the same on the other end of the sleeve then wait 10 minutes for it to cure. While the CA glue cures secure the throttle cable and carb cam together with the set screw making sure there is no slack. This step will cure your ¾ throttle problem giving you 100%WOT with a stock TX. Secure radio box lid.
-This is the time for you to add a failsafe or a 3rd servo for trimming the drive (you will need a 3 CH Tx for this purpose with EPA and DR capability). Adjust rudder throw and trim.
-stuff boat crevices with pool noodles, empty pop bottles, or air bags to keep it afloat just in case of a blow over
-Replace Canopy latch with 3MM cap screw, washer, and nut for better security in case of a blow over.
-Re-attach exhaust pipe assembly making sure the bolts are BLUE Loctited. Then re-attach all cooling lines to pipe and engine.
-Set your Hi and Lo Speed needles to 1 Turn out from zero or closed position and start your engine. Adjust accordingly to suit.
-Power up your radio gear, start engine, secure canopy, and enjoy your new water rocket!!!

PRO owner set up
-Buy the MHZ Nimbus Hull and paint.
-Buy MHZ , WD200, or RCM stern drive and associated hardware needed to your pockets liking.
-Buy /Mod engine and pipe to your pockets liking.
- Assemble and set up.
-Enjoy your new water rocket!!!

I will show my set up sooner than later.

josshe

01VIPER27
I really appreciate your heads up about the v24 aquacraft.
I received mine from Tower and was not happy the quality of workmanship as the paint has blobs and big streaks of resin on the bow not to mention rust on the pipe support at the back.
Most of the screws are semi tight and not locktite no where.

My boat came in the box with all but the tail and bow styrofoam busted bits.

I'm not trashing the boat but attention to detail for the price is not up to par. I guess I should've found this thread before purchase as I watched the video links from Tower's page and was very impressed as nothing negative was pointed out but then again I understand.

My questions if someone would be so kind to answer:
- Where do I get a clutch
- Should I put a brace on the header
- What servo was used to do the drive trimming
- Is there an easy way to remove prop as mine is stuck after removing retaining nut
- Should I pack the stinger with grease and is brake disc grease okay to use as its cheaper and thicker than the grease from tower
- Where do I get the bilge pump adapter I've seen mounted in the transom at the back
- Where are the photos of workable mods to improve this boat

I really am looking forward to running this boat but I don't want my maiden voyage to be a big dissapointment as this thread started back 2006 and even with my boat being purchased a week ago I really don't see that anything has been changed or improved by the manufacturer.

I been in r/c over 35 years heli/boat/cars/planes but first gas vehicle of which I hope to be many more in the future!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

01VIPER27

My Feedback: (1)

Josshe,

My questions if someone would be so kind to answer:
- Where do I get a clutch
No such thing for the Fuji engine.

- Should I put a brace on the header
No mine worked well and held tight. Just add locktite to all screws and check once in a while.

- What servo was used to do the drive trimming
I got rid of the radio box as the lid did not last so I used a Futaba 1/4 servo to trim or you can use a regular Hitec Hi torque metal gear servo ($$$) to go in your radio box.

- Is there an easy way to remove prop as mine is stuck after removing retaining nut
Follow the stinger modification up top.

- Should I pack the stinger with grease and is brake disc grease okay to use as its cheaper and thicker than the grease from tower
Regular grease yes. No brake disc grease.

- Where do I get the bilge pump adapter I've seen mounted in the transom at the back
I believe TH or WHH sells the water pump. See Scott Schneider's thread on installing water pump. Also see classified here for Proboat water pump for $25.

- Where are the photos of workable mods to improve this boat.
PM or email me and I will share with you what I have and you can post it on here if you like.

See needle setting up top for pain free starting. Adjust to suit your location after.