Savage Engineer

Looks like its coming along. I would really like to see some more pics of the assembly as I am in the very SLOW process of building the same boat. I still haven't got all the pieces cut out and sanded though. Good luck!

bullboy8

Joe and I have been very ill with the flu in tha last few days. we appolagize for leaving our thraed hang like that. Here is some pics of what we did the friday before we all started loosing our dinner[:'(] We got the frames cut and ready to rock!

bullboy8

oh my! Joe, we really need to learn how to shrink these picks down[X(]

bullboy8

hope these are a little smaller, it's a hit and miss. If anyone knows how to shrink these down all the way, please inform me how.

gojoecrewchief1

Thanks to our forum buddy George these Walbros on the left are going on our engine to replace our stockies. Farthest on the left is a 11.11MM and next is 9.53mm. Thanks again George.

bullboy8

yes! I really appreciate it george! can't wait to run them

martno1fan

Looking good fellas must be good building the boats together as mates,even better having boats that will be pretty evenly matched when finnished.Should make for some fun when you get them running .

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Looks real good guys. Are thoughs frames different in size? Are you building 2 sizes of boats? In any case it looks real good.

Btw if that's Coors I see, then it's time to switch to some better suds. Just kidding

Strikar

I see the woman looks very happy about being there, hehe

bullboy8

Tomorrow were going to try to get the bottum skins on, and start fabing some rudder designs. They are both the same size 48" mono design. we got the designs from our forum pal Martno1fan, thanks again by the way. I was trying to get my girlfriend to build one with us but she would rather want to be working on a car before a boat...can't win them all I geuss hey ByronRC, how come you don't like the blue mountain[&o]? It's ok, Bud is good as well. we will both keep you all up to date on our poject. Thank you all again for the help!!!

gojoecrewchief1

Byron the boats are the same size they are both 48 mono's. Mine is going to get some holes in the frame to make it a bit liter. Ya its coors but beers beer to me I just drink it for a nice buzz LOL Strikar, I caught her off guard shes a very happy person, love having both of them around the house. Guys I was wondering how those carbs will hook up I'm thinking I will need to find what engine they came off of to get the cable set up? right?

Mr.Freeze

Warehouse hobbies makes a nice throttle cable setup, it's easy to attach and adjust

dicko

At least she's there. My girlfriend sits inside watching TV while I work out the back on my models. I even have a TV out where I work that she can watch if she wanted to, as long as she watches what I have on.

gojoecrewchief1

Mr.Freeze does that cable work with the Walbro type carbs? would it be easier to find out what the carb came off of and get that cable or the cable warehouse hobbies have?

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Joe, I sent two different sizes to see which would work better on the engines.The carb according to Weedeater tech was one with less than 8 mm venturi.If the 11.11 mm one runs good on it I 'll send another one so both engines will be equal.If they can be modded a larger carb might work.You could get a throttle shaft that might make it easier to use a cable or a rod setup http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product866.html Might be able to pick them up free or cheap from a place that has old carbs laying around.

bullboy8

Hey there Tidnab. I was so fortunate to run across the same engine that joe has so the boats will have about the same powerhouse. Tomorrow we will try to hook the carbs up to see which one runs best. Do you know what the factory size carb is on thoughs weedeaters by any chance? Once again we appreciate you sending them.

martno1fan

Hi guys theres two ways to rig up your throttle to the carb one is if theres enough shaft sticking through the oposite side from the butterfly you can buy an arm that slides on and is held via a grub screw(file a flat spot on shaft first) the other way is as i did on my boat.Make a bracket that fits to the plate thats holding the primer bulb if it has one if not even easier just the 2 screws on the side nearest actually its just a flat ali plate cut to fit with a small u bracket bent from thinner ali fastened to it and drilled in the top to accept the cable sleave then a smaller hole in the bottom just big enough for the cable to go through,hope my description is ok.Then rig your cable to it and attach the end to a pushrod connector and the connector to the hole in the butterfly.Mine works flawlessly heres a cpl of pics of how i did it.the cable sleeve is just held in place by been a snug fit in the upper small bracket and a bit of cyano for extra insurance wouldnt hurt but i havent needed it.

martno1fan

by the way factory size carbs on weedys is about 8 mm venturi ,i run on my weedy an 11mm walbro wa 167 carb might be nearer 12 mm havent actually measured it all i know is it runs great and makes a big difference over the stock one.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Marts right ,the stock carb size is 8mm and is a Zama C1U-W18 on that model of Weedeater brand

bullboy8

Here is the latest progression in our mono projects, no major headaches yet

w3bby

Coming along nicely.
While you are at this stage you can drill as shown below to allow water to move to the transom and make it easier to drain the boat.
I had the blue spot drilled as well as I used a separate, removable radio box. Yes, the stuffing tube will go through this bulkhead as well but a little higher.......

dwr9

I don't know what your plans are when putting the sides and deck on but this is the way I do mine. After the bottom is on, as yours now is, I glue 1/4" square strips of wood along the edges, protruding some beyond the edge of the bulkheads then I sand the bottom and strips back flush with and at the same angle as the ends of the bulkheads so it is ready to attach the sides. This gives you a lot more surface area for gluing and in my opinion is the strongest way of doing it if done right. I do the same thing along the top of the sides before attaching the deck. This is my way of doing things, but it seems most others haven't done it this way, so this is just my suggestion. Feel free to do what you think is best. Doug

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Keep up the good work bullboy8 & gojoecrewchief1. I'm taking notes on this one.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Doug, Does anyone building these v hulls use a building board with the frames elevated and attached to the board with aluminum angle and clamps or other material to keep them at 90 deg?Why not add 1/4" square sticks to the chine area and other areas that need more support or gluing area,before you put on the bottoms and sides.Here's pics of a Dunlap cracker when I was building it.I added extra stringers on the bottom for more support to keep the bottom flat toward the transom and ones on the side for protection against a hard hit from another crackerbox.

w3bby

As the frames are all on one plane raising on tabs is not really required. I built the frame on a board and then turned the boat over for the bottom and side sheets. I did however use aluminium channels to maintain shape until the deck went on. Keel and chine were glassed on the inside so I didn't feel the need for extra support along these areas. Also with the overhang of the sides to the bottom forming the chine strake filled with resin and chopped glass it is a really strong joint.
Unlike Doug I used no extra pieces around the deck joint and the boat has proved strong enough, I split the deck from the side once when I dropped the fully loaded boat on its side onto a concrete floor from the work bench. I have never used the deck as a lifting point however.
I wondered about the lack of support to the bottom skin when I built the boat but it proved to be well up to the job and a few years later is still straight, flat and true.