Prop mods
#26
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RE: Prop mods
As Jamie said earlier, GOOD THREAD [sm=thumbup.gif] thanks for the replies guys. Pictures and diagrams make everything easier to follow along with handling comments.
I have some work to do over the winter now
Keep the comments coming..........
I have some work to do over the winter now
Keep the comments coming..........
#27
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RE: Prop mods
a picture is worth a thousand words Zac nice video she was running well before the prop disintegrated [X(].Any tips on what you do to stop this happening?apart from dont mod the bugger to start with .Can you explain the heat treatment you mentioned do you just heat it up and let it cool slowly or?
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RE: Prop mods
ORIGINAL: DaveMarles
My take on this is its not so much the prop mods as boat setup. Many of the prop numbers being talked about here are too big for me and might produce a good terminal speed after a 100 metres on some choppy water but for racing are a waste of time. They will run if I lift the strut a lot but then the boat handling is ugly. I like to run high rpm on my monos and a modded 7016/2 gives the best top speed on the GPS but a stock 7015/3 gives me the best laptimes by far, good acceleration out of the corners and good speed but the setup on the strut is completely different. To get the revs on the 7015/3 compared to the 7016/2 I have to lift the strut about 3mm or so and give it a touch of down angle (negative?). I don't use tabs but if the boat leans to the right I tilt the bottom of the rudder out to the right by a tiny amount (looking from the back of the boat)and that levels it up.
My take on this is its not so much the prop mods as boat setup. Many of the prop numbers being talked about here are too big for me and might produce a good terminal speed after a 100 metres on some choppy water but for racing are a waste of time. They will run if I lift the strut a lot but then the boat handling is ugly. I like to run high rpm on my monos and a modded 7016/2 gives the best top speed on the GPS but a stock 7015/3 gives me the best laptimes by far, good acceleration out of the corners and good speed but the setup on the strut is completely different. To get the revs on the 7015/3 compared to the 7016/2 I have to lift the strut about 3mm or so and give it a touch of down angle (negative?). I don't use tabs but if the boat leans to the right I tilt the bottom of the rudder out to the right by a tiny amount (looking from the back of the boat)and that levels it up.
I found for some reason the 7015/3 made my mono quite loose, no matter where i set the stinger. The 7016/2 (mines quite modded) gives good speed like you mentioned, but way too unstable for my likings in heat racing as well.
Everyone has a different "liking" to how their boat handles and how they must control it during a race.... for me i go for the prop that lets me run lane 1 full bore through the turns \without losing much if any RPM, while staying pretty stable. Which on my Insane mono's, sofar has been a X472/2 for moderate choppy water, and a pitched up X467/2 for when it gets really rough. I give up speed through the straights with these props, but pull hard through the turns without ever having to let off the trigger and wonder out into the rigger lanes to keep the boat from trying to do stupid stuff. The ABC MW3 sofar has been the fastest that ive tested by about 3-4mph, but nowhere near as stable in the turns, and also drops RPM a bit through the turns.
#32
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RE: Prop mods
There is a thread pinned to the top of the General boating forum with a lot of help on props with lots of sites that help you figure out a lot of things.
Yeah, Jamie should warn people first about looking at his props and hardware, sometimes they're like looking directly into the sun![sm=shades_smile.gif]
Yeah, Jamie should warn people first about looking at his props and hardware, sometimes they're like looking directly into the sun![sm=shades_smile.gif]
#33
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RE: Prop mods
I'm sorry Ian. You'll enjoy this portion as well.
Can someone please explain how STAR pointed vs ROUNDed tips effect performance. Lets start with a mono as thats what the orriginal application is for.
Tell us what else is needed as far as strut heights etc. (ps, I've got a basic understanding but not enough).
Jamie
Can someone please explain how STAR pointed vs ROUNDed tips effect performance. Lets start with a mono as thats what the orriginal application is for.
Tell us what else is needed as far as strut heights etc. (ps, I've got a basic understanding but not enough).
Jamie
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RE: Prop mods
ORIGINAL: Doubledog
I'm sorry Ian. You'll enjoy this portion as well.
I'm sorry Ian. You'll enjoy this portion as well.
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RE: Prop mods
ORIGINAL: dwr9
After trying a number of props on my mono the ABC 3014 in stock form, just balanced and sharpened, is the fastest. The 2716 with no mods was just about equal in speed but bogged in the corners. Doug
After trying a number of props on my mono the ABC 3014 in stock form, just balanced and sharpened, is the fastest. The 2716 with no mods was just about equal in speed but bogged in the corners. Doug
Doug,
On the 2716, I'd remove some tounge untill it pullled trough the turns and maybe a small barr cut.
.Any tips on what you do to stop this happening?apart from dont mod the bugger to start with .Can you explain the heat treatment you mentioned do you just heat it up and let it cool slowly or?
Now for a tip......
Find a prop that runs good in stock form, trim the tounge and add cup..... normally good for 3-5mph.
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RE: Prop mods
Hi is this where and how to remove the tongue on an x series prop? pic one second pic shows back cut 3rd bar cut whats the diff between the two? also in the other pic showing the lines where to bend etc is this called cupping or is it just the line d on the outer edge thats the cup? sorry for all the questions im just trying to work this out.lots to learn for me anyways lol.
#38
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RE: Prop mods
To add or remove cup, do the bending @ 70% out from the hub. I took a screw drive and cut most of it off and put a drive dog on it to use for bending. I use a set of cupping pliers made by Mike Tyson (T-Mod muffler guy).
#39
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RE: Prop mods
Do i need cupping pliers then or can it be done without ?dont be affraid to explain things in detail to me im very dumb when it comes to this kind of thing ,im not affraid to try things out just need a few pointers to get me on the right track.Any pics of the tool you made and how its used would be great .
#40
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RE: Prop mods
Mart, I've got a set of cupping pliers as well. Mike Tyson does them. I don't have a picture handy, but take a simple cheap pair of pliers. Grind off the teeth & make it smooth grip. Next, round one jaw with sort of a hump in the tip. Thats it.
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RE: Prop mods
Also as a last resort, take a regular pair of pliers and gradually bend the tips. Be careful not to gouge the metal. I've done it in a quick fix & it worked fine.
#42
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RE: Prop mods
thanks mate now i have a clear idea of how its done im sure ill manage ill have a go at making a set of those pliers too cheers for the pics and info .i think ill try the back cut on my prather prop and remove the tongue and see how it goes before doing anything else.might order a few of these cheap ali props too and experiment a bit .im running one on my boat with good success so far.
#44
RE: Prop mods
Thanks Zac. I may just give that a try next spring. Doug
ORIGINAL: Zac Price
Doug,
On the 2716, I'd remove some tounge untill it pullled trough the turns and maybe a small barr cut.
ORIGINAL: dwr9
After trying a number of props on my mono the ABC 3014 in stock form, just balanced and sharpened, is the fastest. The 2716 with no mods was just about equal in speed but bogged in the corners. Doug
After trying a number of props on my mono the ABC 3014 in stock form, just balanced and sharpened, is the fastest. The 2716 with no mods was just about equal in speed but bogged in the corners. Doug
Doug,
On the 2716, I'd remove some tounge untill it pullled trough the turns and maybe a small barr cut.