w3bby

Thanks Brod but as we have just witnessed pictures can be deceiving

DaveMarles

Sure will, along with their new little brother and sister.

Test005

Started on my boat tonight but didn't get far.
When I tried to remove the stock, square backplate on the Zenoah to put on the mount, two of the three large phillips-screws didn't budge.
I used heat and a good fitting screw driver but couldn't help stripping the heads... Bummer, showstopper!

The screw I did get removed did not have any thread locking compond on it, but the Zenoah dude assembling my engine must have had a bad day torqueing thos screws down like this?!?

Dunno, suppose I have to try to drill the screws out and use some bolt/nut instead, cr@p!

dicko

If you have the right sized screw driver place it in the head & give it a good hit with a hammer, it will jar the thread as well as seat the screw driver in, then you can back it out. I had issues the first time I tried to get that back plate off until I was told that tip.

If you have stripped the head, use a dremel to cut a groove & use a flat bladed driver in there.

glennb2006

Aye - they are very tight, I use a large pozi driver bit and a 90 degree driver to get them moving, make sure it a good fit and tap it to loosen it off and seat the driver bit, should come out.

Good luck.

Glenn

martno1fan

I had the same problem i used a dremmel to cut a slot in the screw,then tightened the screw a touch then it will come out easy.Old trick i learned many years ago first get the screw to move then back it out.Also heat will help loosen it never fails,allways use that zen screw driver that came with it on those screws any other driver ruins the head .
Mart

Test005

Got them out by cutting a slot with my dremel and use a flat screw driver, the build is back on track again

martno1fan

Got them out by cutting a slot with my dremel and use a flat screw driver, the build is back on track again
[/quote]
Good to hear now get that sucker built .By the way there was a thread on boat dock saying the latest stock zens have had a few issues with the divider between the transfer ports while one side is smooth the other has some material that hasnt been removed ,this was an engine modder who had 4 new zens and all were the same he advised strip the cylinder off and remove the material with a small file or emory cloth otherwise it will get scraped off and destroy the cylinder.He reckons its only been the newest ones hes bought that were like this but it might be worth checking it.Theres also another thread on there where a new motor was destroyed probably for that reason.
Mart
link
[link]http://www.jrcbd.com/showthread.php?t=15331[/link]

Test005

Is there a picture of this? and is it easy to get to this part? (Can't register to jrcbd)
I'm tempted NOT to mess with my new engine if I really really don't have to.

martno1fan

No pics its your choice mate im just telling you what ive read he ordered 4 motors new as he mods them to sell and he found all 4 to be the same [X(],i wont be running a new stocker without checking it for sure.anyone can join jrcbd its free.
Mart

Test005

Don't get me wrong, I appreaciate the tip.
I just don't understand what is required and where, and if this involves taking the engine apart I'm hesitant because I never had a Zenoah before.

martno1fan

No worries mate i can see what you mean,it just involves removing the cylinder i believe .I wish i could show you a pic but i dont have one to hand.Would hate to see you ruin your new motor though,not sure if it had been checked by the seller but i doubt it.Why not ask Dave on the best way to do it if your not sure?.
Mart

Test005

Thanks Mart
I'll see if Dave drops in here and has some info on the engine stuff. I don't want to bother him with E-mails.


Anyways, here's some progress:
Got the ¤#"%#"* Backplate screws off the engine and installed my mount and rubber thingies.
The whole thing fit perfectly in the hull and I really like that the rail system is pre installed and lined up.

Mounted the stuffin' tube and glassed it in but will need to secure it more near the engine output shaft. Also got all the metal parts mounted in the back of the boat and did a mock up with the tuned pipe and radio box... Everything looks OK to me?


This boat building is really fun and I've been working on it for most part of the day



A few issues though:

1. No trim plates included in the kit although it says so on the Sigma51 web page. Supposedly it's faster without, but as a beginner I'd really like to have them for easier set-up and trim of the boat.

2. No bolts for the strut was included (there are screws and bolts for everything else)... luckily I had some old flat head 4mm bolts to get the job done, but I need to go buy some rust free ones with allen head.

3. There's no system included to secure the tuned pipe to the transom. I will need some ideas on how to make a bracket for this?

martno1fan

When you glassed the tube in did you put the next size tube over the prop tube first? reason i ask is it makes things easier if you ever need to remove it, at the transom just silicone it in but def make the hole a slot for adjusting things.You dont need trim tabs you can trim the boat with the drive angle and rudder by raking the rudder back or tucking it under which alters the hull attitude the same as tabs do.How do you plan to balance the hull usually most people leave mounting the motor last so they can move it arround to find the balance point?.
Mart

Test005

Yes, there's a larger diameter brass tube that gets glassed in and the stuffing tube slides into this. I will also silicone the stuffing tube at the transom and make a plywood bracket for it closer to the motor output shaft, so yes, it will be removable'ish if needed

The engine rails are predrilled and I mounted the motor there. I suppose Dave has balanced it perfectly already and I use only stock equipment from the kit.
Seeing the quality of this ship, I have a feeling the CG will come out spot on!




About trimming without trim tab: The rudder doesn't move much back to front and the stufing tube is pushed all the way in the strut and the strut is bolted on rigid.
There is a bolt holding the strut to the mount though and it can slide up>down but with the stuffing tube in there, I don't know if it can go up and down anymore...?
As a beginner I'd prefer to have trim tabs for easy adjustment, for fun driving, I can afford to sacrifice some speed.

martno1fan

Sounds like your on the right track yes your right Dave will no doubt have checked balance etc before drilling the mount holes,as regards the adjustment of the strut you need an opened up slot where it exits the transom that way when you loosen that bolt it will allow the strut to slide up and down if the hole is tight round the tube then it wont move .To be able to angle your rudder you just need to loosen the bolt holding the blade?.By all means add tabs if you want im just saying you dont need them ,keep up the good work.
Mart

glennb2006

Hi Test,

if you look on the technical info page of Dave's site, there are strut set up tips there, follow them and you will get the stuffing tube in the correct location. It makes a big difference to boat handling on the Panther and I suspect it does on the Sigma too, the height is critical, and needs adjusting for different props.

I took the trim tabs off my boat - not needed, trust Dave on that one. As Mart said, trim adjustments can be made with the strut mainly.

To support the stuffing tube at the engine end, have you considered a Tee bar?

Have fun with the build.

Glenn

Test005

Glenn: I have built it after Dave's instructions, with a 3mm offset etc... What I don't get is how I can adjust the strut when the stuffing tube is inserted in it.
The stuffing tube should also be siliconed in place to the inside of the transom.

(Soooo, with a large hole in the transom for the stuffing tube, and no silicone around it, I suppose the strut will be very adjustable, but I don't see how the boat'll be water tight this way )


And yes, I'd like to have a Tee-bar, it looks like a good thing to hold things in place.

dicko

my boat has a hole in the back that's elongated to allow for vertical movement of the strut. the stuffing tube stops about an inch short of the strut so that you can easily move it. as long as you don't stall the & keep the boat moving the water won't comein the hole. if you stop you need to have enough pool noodle (floatation) in the boat to keep it from sinking anyway. these boats aren't designed to sit still, they're designed to be raced.

here's a few pics of my hull, it's a Sidewinder, but you'll get the idea.

DaveMarles

Linus , I quote from the instructions on the website [link=http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/siginstructions.htm]Sigma instructions.[/link] " DO NOT use an angled strut or angle the strut with packing under the brackets. It should be parallel to the keel when looking from underneath the boat. Drill an oversize hole for the proptube in the ‘V’ of the transom. After first tests seal the tube exit through the transom with silicone tube or silicone sealer. Cut the prop tube to length so that it is about 10 to 15mm from the coupling but pushed into the strut as far as possible. The tube should run along the bottom of the hull from the transom and then be curved upward to slide into the coupling."


Actually its better not to seal that hole with silicone because when you are testing different props, the strut height or offset will need to be changed. Water will always get inside the boat and so that opening around the tube will not be a problem anyway but ask 10 people and you will get 10 answers on that point, just make sure you have plenty of flotation in the boat. I guess that once you happy with the setup you can seal it up.
Don't use trim tabs. They are not needed and will only slow the boat down. I've taken them off the list of parts a long time ago but I see that I did mention tabs in the blurb on the boat. Do make sure the CG is correct although for a stock Zenoah its possible for it to be back a little maybe 10 to 20mm from the recommended position.
The strut height and angle can be used to trim the boat. The rudder angle will be fine as its supplied and the mention of adjustment of the rudder does not refer to the rudder angle.

martno1fan

If you just silicone the hole it still allows plenty of movement without any problems asuming your only moving it a cpl mm up or down and that way you dont get any water in the boat,much better on your nerves when the boat stalls too .I was going to say that hull is normally setup with a full mod so those instructions might not be for a stock setup but then i thought Dave might have mentioned that to you allready so didnt say anything .As regards trim tabs ive never seen any on Daves hulls so that must tell you something ,the only boat i ever used them on was my old woody and after learning more about setup i now realise they werent needed at all but they doo look nice .Keep up the good work and enjoy your new boat,she should be pretty fast even with a stock motor.
Mart
ps im learning new things all the time as im sure even Dave is,thats what makes it fun and thats what boating is all about having FUN!!

Test005

Thanks alot everybody. I have now opened up the transom hole to allow the strut to slide 5mm up and down in the bracket.
I start like this and when I get the boat to track without bouncing I silicone it up.


Dave: Here's the source of my confusion. I followed the enclosed printed instructions I got with the kit, that's why I couldn't figure out how to make the strut adjustable.
..... Sorry for being an idjiit but this boat things are new to me and there are two contradicting instruction set's.


Included, printed instructions: (This is what I did)
Sigma web page instructions: (...And this is what I now have done)

Test005

Here's some status pictures from todays progress (pipe, fuel, cooling)... Please let me know if something is wrong.


I think these are what's left on the to-do list:
-Radio installation
-Hatch lock system
-Bracket for pipe
-T-bar for stuffing tube
-Floatation

w3bby

Not wrong but on the cooling I prefer to have the outlet on the portside deck near to where it exits from the pipe. The reason is that you can then see it clearly as the boat goes past and see any problems. Having it to the rear of the boat or out the transom you loose the telltale in the wash and roostertail.

- Bracket for pipe - make sure it is rubber mounted as well, I like to use stainless [link=http://www.hjertmans.se/webshop/artiklar/artiklar.asp?rubnr=539&artname=]P-clips[/link] and a rubber engine mount.
- T-bar for stuffing tube, you can use a ply bracket as well if you feel the need to get on the water sooner rather than later (don't we all!!!).
- Floatation - DON'T forget some flotation for the hatch....

patriktegelberg

Nice build, hope to go to Finland and race some when ever I get my stuff sorted (I will not be at the Naviga world champs now either). You will be racing I gather, probably clockwise laps. I find the cooling outlet easier to se if put on the starboard side, but that could possible be different for some colour boats. I really want to have a handle on the port side by the CG and the cooling outlet far enough away for the water to not scald my hand. Have a few second opinions on this and then add handle on port by CG to the to do list, its a must have.