Hirobocool

thank YPC

YPC

HI Hibrocool, and all others who read the previous note, stating our pipe prices.
A good man pointed out that I had misquoted a price The YPC2009, Black option is actually (only)ZAR1850-00.
Thanks for the correction !

Regards
Dominic
YPC

sharpy022

that amps outboard looks cool ,but looks like it weights as much as my boat & motor lol

YPC

Hi Sharpay 022
I assure you that that AMPS outboard is a master piece, and if anything, will make any boat look twice as good as it would ever hope to. I don't think we will ever see the creative quality and amazing craftsmanship as that of Miller Agnew in our life time again.
I am pleased to see that you have got your leg strapped to a hull and am very keen to see the results and reward of your labour.
We have also completed our YPC "racing" Gas leg (2nd prototype) and raced it with great success at our last race meeting.
I will be posting some pics and videos as soon as we have the final production run product in hand. We don't visualize selling any beyond our borders before 2010 so as to ensure that all works well.
Have a GAS !
Regards
Dominic
YPC

HOOTERS racing

well i got some work done on two boats today the gas tunnel and its little sister a htb 290 anyway heres some pics
of the gas tunnel its so very close to test run time

cheers

HOOTERS racing

still got some work to go but not much just finish off some lose ends

Hesco Racing

I noticed on your carbon rods U have the threaded section on the inside. IS it roller carbon rods or pulled rods. I it is pulled rods it is best to epoxy a brass tube on the outside otherwise it's going to split open with the first knock you get.

And put the water pickup in from the carb side and spraying out exhaust side. ! Wont blow water in the carb and 2 You ride from right to left facing the water so you can see that the water is spraying out the motor.

YPC

Hey Hooter : well done, it all looks great.
Keep an eye on the cooling, as I say, we have found that the prop pick up is not consistent.
The bracket looks good, thanks for adding that and the whole look of everything looks very in balance.
I must say, even if I say so myself, That pipe tucks in very nicely.
Please remember that it takes a while for those motors to run in, but get some footage for us anyway, I do believe that that will be the first of Marks boat to run an Outboard.
regards
Dominic
YPC

HOOTERS racing

hey mate
i still need to finish the rods just like you said and as for the water outlet im going to change the cooling jacket
to one where the outlets are over the top of the plug

cheers ian

HOOTERS racing

hey mate

it sure will be the first one of marks to be fitted with an outboard im still not to happy with the steering
being a little bit twitchy from full lock to center (when you turn it back slow) but it should be fine when under load

cheers

YPC

Hi Ian, If you are running two steering servos they need to be linked together with a Y lead as well as powered by another Y lead so that they are drawing a good , healthy 6v's. they do get giterry with a 4.8 v pack and eventually burn out. They also need to be linked across the horns.
Let me know if you need a diagram.
I would also advise that you set the steering points on the motor end as wide as possible, and on the servo end as close as possible. You dont need, nor do you want to much steering. I rather set understeer and have to come of the throttle slightly in a turn, than have oversteer and lose it.
Regards
Dominic
YPC

YPC

I am going to attempt to explain how to hook up the steering servos as the forum will not support my diagram that has been drawn in Turbo cad. For thous who have purchased the YPC hulls it is in the Instruction catalogue, just in case you never read it.
If you are using the Hitec 805bb, which we do, they are inexpensive, tough gearboxes, but require a small aftermarket mod which I will explain.

To start, the big servos need 6v, otherwise they just burn out. A good 2500-4000ma battery will get you through a complete race day and sum. I use the DDM 6v 3000ma hump packs.
Another added bonus when using the Hitec 805bb servo, is that the Y lead is supplied with it, which otherwise is rather costly ZAR120-00 plus.

So with the first Y lead connect the two servos together, then attached the second Y lead to the remaining plug of the first y lead.
Now connect one of the two remaining plugs of the second Y lead to the power output plug of the on/of switch harness and then plug the remaining plug into the Steering plug port at the receiver RX.
NOTE - you do not plug any other power source into the receiver RX, it is powered through the Y lead coming in through the steering port.
Plug the throttle lead in as usual and remember that there will be no power when the steering lead is not plugged into the RX.

Its that simple !

Now for the 805bb mod
As much as these servos are inexpensive in comparison to any others with huge power outputs as well as to date never breaking a gear on any of the boats I have used them on, and that is plenty, they do have a small weakness, which fortunately can be prevented, but if not done, cannot be solved.
The electronics of the servo are soldered onto a traditional type PC board. On it are 4 rather large rectangular type Black Diodes which are placed together. With the intense vibration that the boat generates due to the rough gas motor itself, the surface prop and even the resonance of a good tune pipe, these( or at least one off) diodes actually break there connection to the PC board and the servo dies a sudden death.
If this is left to happen, you are very unlikely to be able to repair it, so the measure is once again simple "but somehow hard to do for sum'
The process :
Remove the servo assembly bolts, part the upper gearcase body and base plate. dismantle the gearbox, taking note of the gear positions.
Then, with a soft down, lightly tap the brass gear at the top of the servo motor, which will allow you to draw the servo pc board out the bottom.
On the board you will easily identify the 4 diodes, with the use of a simple "Hot Glue gun" Pot (melt the glue over them) the 4 diodes together and onto the pc board so that they are supported collectively.
Without allowing the glue to set, press the PC board back ASAP, ensuring that it is located correctly, then proceed to reassemble the servo completely.
Now your servo is potted and will last and last, enduring many flips, barrel rolls and tumbles.

HOOTERS racing

hey mate

thanks for that thats some good posting only thing is im useing a servo city gearbox with 5:1 and a hs 7955 tg digital
servo and a lipo rx pack witha voltage reg to bring it down from 7.4 to 6.0 volts ill take a nother pic tonight

cheers ian

YPC

Hi Ian, that's some "Hitec" radio box set-up, excuse the pun.
I was introduced to the Servo City servos by a good friend only the other day as I am starting to sketch out a +/_ 2M(6ft) tunnel with a 40cc Blata outboard. I reckon that this will be quite an awesome project. I have been encouraged by the fact that we can do our own leg now and believe that the same concept will work with a bigger motor.
Getting back to your glitch then, it could be that the servo arm points are wider than the motor end points, and is actually over steering. Almost like a con rod at BDC or TDC.
Regards
Dominic
YPC

racejunkie538

Hi guy's

It has being a long time I know, but finaly I got my Synthar F1 wet today. Everything went well today, engine is brand new so has to break in.
I didn't had much time so I think I have run a half liter off fuel through. Have to do some trim adjustments here and there, but I'm very pleased
for today. You can check some pictures on the Dutch Xtreme board. Hope to make some nice run vid soon.

http://www.xtremercboats.com/phpBB/v...hp?f=3&t=22182

Regards

Marc