Jamming

Hello, Sorry for bringing up this subject again, but didn't want to add my question to a long post. I now have my 1/8 Miss Llumar. I gotta say i don't see the thin hull people have spoke of, Overall it looks like a decent hull and plenty heavy layup. But maybe it's just because i am new to gasoline boating. But i do have a WHH team pro to compare. The team pro is a little heavier but not as much as i exspected from the forums i have read.

Now for a question: I pulled the clutch and the four aluminum post that are holding the case together, Can i just leave them or should i remove them and put Nuts on the studs. The studs as you know have a allen head for removal, But they are really in there, I used a bit of heat NO LUCK, There freaken tight. So can i nut them and call it good. Also thought of cutting the blue collars down, So there not long. Thoughts ?

Also going to order a speed master rudder, Do i toss the water pump, or do i still need it with the dual pick-up rudder. I assume i can run with no pump and clutch, because as soon as the boat starts moving it should get water. Right ? And who do i order the prop cable and collet from, Is it anything special or can i just get a longer cable and wack it down. If i want to make it a 1/4" cable do i have to change the tube. Seems to me the stock cable is pretty sloppy in the tube.

Difficult to read, But the carb is a walbro And i think it says 253 on the side, Will i really see much change switching to a 257.
Thank You !

soundguykaraoke50

if you are removing the clutch,you should also go with a round style Colet,you will need a longer cable,and ditch your water pump,first you need to plug the pulse fitting as close to the carb block as pos.you need to put in a longer shaft and tube.Chris at dasboata will be able to help you in the parts for this build up.it's all about getting this hull to run on the 2 front sponsons and the prop .this make it a three point hydro.as mentioned in other posts that you need lift in the rear so that she rides on the prop only in the rear,Chris can set you in the right direction.the boat is tail heavy from the start.by doing what you are planing is a good start.the motor needs to be about an inch or more forward that its stock placement.nothing on the pro boat is normal.the mounting stringers are at like 6 inches as compared to the industry standard 5 inches.get that motor as far forward as you can.replace the stuffing tube without the Teflon insert ,use the k&s stock#1150 9/32x.014 brass tubing.buy a lifting prop from any of the props recommended for a hydro,dasboata ,can help you out with these changes.you are looking at putting a lot of hard work in this sport hydro.it is a great looking hull,but as a sport boat i always liked the AM 50 sport hydro with the turbine cowling.that hull is a big light weight hull with loads of room to work in.Mrs Liumar looks great,but is a turd as far as performance goes.30ish or so just don't cut it at the pond,as with very little work the AM is the most forgiving of all the glass hydro's out there,this is just my opinion.you picked the nicest looking rtr hydro to start with.now to perform like it should,well now you have lots of work cut out for yourself.good luck in this project.shoot Chris an email,he will guide you through the parts that you will need,i set my Llumar to the side and that's where it will stay until i sell her.i don't have the patience to do what your attempting to do.
tony

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

Unless you get a modded 257, the venturi is the same size as stock. the 257 just doesn't have a chock butterfly to get in the way of flow. Here is a pretty go comparison page I found on the carbs.
http://bonzisports.com/carbs.html
I have the 1/8 scale Elam and I am running into the same issues. I just got a 1/4 square drive adapter from WHH for about $15 that replaces the clutch and you still use the same cable.

Jamming

Yes i am also wanting to use the same cable if possible, Don't want to hack up the bottom of the boat. I have seen good results from here, Without moving the engine forward, I am planning on pipe "Hansen" Speedmaster rudder, Custom turn fin, M-5 WHH speed kit,
Also there must of been two or three versions of the same boat. Mine has the stringer mounts on the side of the engine, and it is 5 inches apart. And made out of, looks like half inch marine plywood. Just dumping the clutch to get rid of the extra weight and transfer to the front. [8D]

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

This is what I ordered and it just replaces the clutch.
http://69.49.183.35/ProductDetails.a...ductCode=EZ190

Jamming

Thanks you ! will order !

painman

Jamming, go back to the Hydro air foil forum and it will give you start to finish, what needs to be done to the boat. I have my Elams ruuning great, but it has taken some time. I added brass tube that fit tight into the existing tube without the teflon tube. Had to purchase new flex shaft and collet (round) cut shaft to size. Shimmed strut, air foils, trim rear wing, new shaft, with sleeve and flex shaft. Removed both clutch and water pump, never moved motor; no need, with other mods. New hardware from speedmaster rudder duel p/u and now using fine design turn fin and also like the insane turnfin.
Have not run gps but have a couple other gas micro burst boats with B H Hanson motors and this boat is getting close. It has been a pleasure getting the boat to handle the power.
Good luck and don't give up on the boat.
Randy

RKS1949

Jamming
Look at these threads! There's alot of info there. Ditch the "stock" header pipe,as it will break at the support arm. Mine done it after a few runs,then when that happened,it also broke a stud off in the cylinder. We took it to a machine shop,but they couldn't remove the broke stud,so it was time to buy a new cylinder/gasket set. The throttle cable is junk,order a BH Hanson throttle linkage set up. These two things will save you alot of greif (not to mention money)! Replace the turn fin with a "break away type"and the rudder also! This will save you "Big Bucks" (don't ask how I know this)[:@] The boat will go much faster than most think,once dialed in and the mods are made. The boat has many short commings for a 1200.00 boat,and will soon turn into a money pit. The hull seams inside the sponsons is thin,and it's not unusal for cracks to develope there! Ron http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_63..._1/key_/tm.htm http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4900779/tm.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpysm...eature=related http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Bud-a...#theater_title

RKS1949

Randy,I was talking to BH Hanson the other day about the speed master rudder,and he wasn't aware of them making a "right hand" steering arm for the rudder. You wouldn't have the part number would you? Ron

Jamming

I just ordered one from Ross today at speedmaster w'duel pick-ups. He called it a #114 if i remember correctly. $48.95 w/bracket. But i will use the stock milled bracket. He said they make it right or left handed. Started making my turn fin tonight and finished the bracket and intend on making it a breakaway. ordered a pipe and mount for the stinger from Tony at WHH. He is building a new line of pipes for hydros and tunnel or riggers, That are heat treated and can resist higher temps without as much exspansion and contraction from heat cycles, In the end, Just means a better seal with less o-ring failure. Great deal also 150 bucks complete w/stinger mount. I would of bought everything from Tony if i could, He has very helpful anytime i have a question. Going to post pics when i get a chance.

Jamming

Finished turn fin, Not bad for one nights worth of work. Same size as the speedmaster. Let me know what you think. The angle is the same as stock fin, Just a much larger. Only thing left is cut off the 2mm bolt, Didn't have a short one for the breakaway. Next is speedmaster rudder.

mopartybob

Great job on the fin jammin [8D] , looks good enuff to filet a salmon with it.....

Jamming

Not sure how to take that Is it too big, I made it to the dimensions as the speed fin. But it does look a little big to me. I wanted to keep it wide to help prevent flexing. And yes you can shave with it. I heated the leading edge with some map gas and tempered it for a razor sharp edge. Maybe it will cut the log in half.

mopartybob

It's all good buddy,fin looks great,me and salmon have a history though.....when i was living in Bremerton,WA. I was chased outta the water by a school of Dog salmon,lol, I was recovering a boat and had to wade out about 50feet,when they surfaced (about 200 of 'em) and tried to torpedo me......... I left the boat,turned tail to run,and jettisoned the countermeasures(ca-ca'ed in da wa-wa) and made it back to shore,but the boat was now gone.... If you've ever been charged by a spawning school of dog-toothed salmon,then you know I was'nt about to go back in..... [:-] filet 'em all i say......

Jamming

Good story ! LOL ! Nice visual ! Run Forest Run !

Jamming

Picture test ! YEA it worked, apparently i was doing it wrong, Sorry again Scott.

painman

LOOKS GOOD, You will know how well it works when you run the boat, fins are very hard to tune. You well see what I mean when you start running the boat. I have now built several and have a couple that seem to work better than the others. I seem to have better luck with the rounded fin rather than the straight angle, as it seems to keep the boat from being so loose.
I noticed from the picture you still have the plactic piece in the cowling I removed it for more air to inter and less drag on the boat, can't remember who I got this from, think maybe Budman, but it also helped.
I would go with the collet (round) and new flex and get away from the square drive, I got one if you won't i will send it to you. I have no need for it. I was able when I removed the clutch to take the blue post and studs out without much effort, you might consider pulling the motor and using vise grips to remove the studs. You will need the motor loose when you get ready to line up the new flex cable and shaft. I also went with better fuel line, didin't like the hard plastic, that comes with the boat.
Good luck;

Randy

rb110103

I don't want to tell any one how to set up there boats but this is what I did to mine and it runs really fast and rides pretty well. I am using a new 275, 70 mm aluminum prop, a top secret gas boat turn fin and I put a plastic strip on the front conard to provide a little more down force on the front as the boat is speeding up. I plan to remove the plastic and replace it with a metal piece, for looks anyways, If you look at the front conard you will see that the right side has les of a angel then the left side. I did that because the boat likes to ride up more on that left sponson.[img][/img][img][/img]

mopartybob

As for that plastic scoop shroud.... [:@] , while I believe max airflow thru the cowling is a good thing, the deflection of water away from key engine components(coil,carb,etc...) should be a consideration also, If y'all noticed at one time or another ,a BAD launch will cause heela water to splash inside,though i've had no issues to date of "drowning" the carb,coil,etc....the potential IS there....especially when running in close proximity with other's... (sportin or racin)....if I had to do it over again, I'd a rethunk a baffle system that would still provide max airflow AND deflect water away from components..... in the short time in rethunking this , my brain farted this idea.... ,remove the top half of the shrouding, and installing those nitro exhaust (45*degree) deflectors to the holes in the bottom of the shroud, you'd still have airflow,and now water is deflected/drained away from those key components......... just a brain fart.... [&:] ,I've been up too long w/o any suds....bbl...... [8D]

mopartybob

Hey.... I thought i seen that done somwhere before.... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6378471/tm.htm Nice boat rb110, I don't think we've had any postings on the 1/8 Formula, just curious if it's the same as the buds,elams,Llumars, or is there something/anything thats a lil different......anybody know??? or give a hoot...lol.... [8D]

Jamming

I found they are mostly the same boat, except there was some earlyier versions that mounted the engine to the bottom of the boats, And the newer one's have engine stringers instead 5" apart like most gas boats. I have the newer Miss Llumar, Thankfully ! As for mopartybob i plan on using aluminum screen to help prevent water from entering the engine from splashing, A diffuser if you will. Or maybe making some louvers out of aluminum. I found some very nice aluminum screen from Michaels craft store that should work well, I will post a picture when i get home.

Jamming

[quote]ORIGINAL: rb110103

I don't want to tell any one how to set up there boats but this is what I did to mine and it runs really fast and rides pretty well. I am using a new 275, 70 mm aluminum prop, a top secret gas boat turn fin and I put a plastic strip on the front conard to provide a little more down force on the front as the boat is speeding up. I plan to remove the plastic and replace it with a metal piece, for looks anyways, If you look at the front conard you will see that the right side has les of a angel then the left side. I did that because the boat likes to ride up more on that left sponson










I noticed you don't have your strut shimmed 0.80, Did you find it was not nessasary ?

rb110103

I tried shimming the strut but found that it slowed the boat. I have found on this boat anyways that going from a brass to a aluminum prop works pretty well with no strut adjustment. It sounds weird but going to the lighter prop works well with this boat. The turn fine was not a bad investment either.

Jamming

Finished part of the bellcrank throttle tonight, And screened in the cowling and removed the plastic, Now just waiting on parts.

Proboat 772

Nice neat work - looks great!