slider46

Well after being inspired by Harold and Lildudes builds, I chatted with Marcel on a few details I had questions about and I finally got started on my Maxcat build 4 days ago. After having a problem with the drawing not printing out the frames correctly, which I didn't find out until I had the frames all cut out. This is my 3rd set of frames I have done. I have all of the stringers and frame cut out now and mocked up, I'm adding some extra stiffeners and I will be making it look more like the Mystic 5000 Miss Geico boat. I have a ways to go but here are some pictures from today with the frame all assembled ready for glue I think... I still want to straighten the transom too, so mounting the drive will be easier....
I also have already bought the plywood for sheeting the hull so I can get right into that pretty soon. As it sits I have $140.00 in wood and glue for this boat, that's including the sheeting.
I will try to show the changes I make as I'm going along so if anyone wants to round out the hull some it will be easy enough to do...
Here is a link to the drawings provided by Maxcorvette.... http://cid-d15bb0f76da55eb3.skydrive...MaxCatV1-L.zip

lildude2599

Looks good just test fit befor you glue up. Make a straight line and cut the wood on an angle to fit put an outer layer and done. That is how i done the transom.

KD0EM

Them pictures brings back some old memories of when I started my build, I am not sure what kind of camera you are using, but it sure takes some nice pictures, very sharp and good color. The ribs and stringer look very good, I am going to have to look up the Mystic 5000 Miss Geico boat to see what you are shooting for, I got a feeling this is going to a very interesting build witch I will be following all the way. I think I have over looked some thing on my plug, and that is the transom, I could maybe straighten it yet or maybe just use wedges behind the hardware. Keep up the good work it looks very good.

slider46

Thanks guys, It's coming along pretty good after the problems I had with the frames in the begining. This is such a good size for this boat as I can still get it in the back seat of my car to go to the lake. I am taking all of the build information you both posted and will be incoporating a few ideas that I have about this boat. Maybe between the 3 of us we can work out all the bugs it this hull.
One question I have for you guys, are the steps in the hull straight across fron each other or are yours offset to the front by an inch??? I don't know if it's my printer or the way it's designed...
Thanks,
Tom

lildude2599

One question what kind of wood did you buy for 140.00? I spent a total of 15.00 for all the wood. And about 8.00 on glue. I bought one 3/16 luwain and 1/8. The 1/8 got for free. Go to home depot and ask them for the bottom of the pallet where they got the 3/4 stacked on. They have it on top also.

lildude2599

You talking about the bottom slots? They are on an angle.

slider46

I went to the LHS and bought some 1/8 and 1/16 sheets that are 12x48 for sheeting, that's where all the money went. I wanted to keep the boat pretty light with just one 260 motor weight is going to be a factor......
Thanks for the pictures of the sponsons, that's just what I needed to know, now I can finish up the framing work and get into sheeting this monster....

lildude2599

Cant seem to find that boat you tring to go for the Mystic 5000 Miss Geico boat. Do you have a link?

slider46

This picture is from justaddwatta picture gallery he has a link to in his signature. This is a sweet looking boat...
http://imageevent.com/justaddwata/li...=0&w=4&s=0&z=4

MaxCorvette

Hi Tom, so you got started, good!

The Miss Geico model will be possible to do on this cat, not that hard, just a lot of work
One thing.....almost afraid to give any comments these days....
Why did you make the inner tunnel stringer same size as the middle stringer? Now you don't have a rim to glue the tunnel to...

As for the weight, don't make it to light, it will just flip a lot.
My cat is 22lbs RTR and runs 94km/h with a very mild tuned zenoah [5+HP], this was not a one time deal, it runs consistent between 91-94km/h.
And as stated by lildude, the steps are on an angle, this makes it easier for air to get through.

One important tip! Keep cg as low as possible! It will corner better.

Marcel

martno1fan

Keep up the good work ,nice choice making it like the miss geico heres one of my favourite pics of her i like it for a cpl or four reasons lol .

slider46

Thanks for the nice comments. Marcel, don't be shy to add your comments to my build, If you see something going wrong I want to know so I can fix it before it's too late. As for the inner piece, I did kind of screw up so it isn't installed yet in that picture, I had to redo it after finding out that it needed to change because the tunnel is now 10cm lower and V-shaped. I also made the 2 stringers that are shown in the picture from 1/4" cabinet Plywood so I didn't have room left to add another layer of wood with out cutting the frames down very thin. It will be installed in several pieces between each frame now, instead of the long one piece. I am plannning on installing that piece today and start sheeting the bottom.
Marty that is the picture I have hanging in my shop to inspire me to keep on building it is very nice to look at for reference too I guess.....

martno1fan

Good choice now we need to talk to Matt about his photography skills because i think he could have zoomed in on a cpl of details
Mart

slider46

Maybe Photoshop some of the geen out of the picture might help....[X(][X(][X(]

martno1fan

A good stiff breaze would have done the job hehe

MaxCorvette

Ah ok, I get it. No problem, just glue the parts in between, you will need the rim for the tunnel sheeting.
First do the stringers on the outer edges, this will make a fairly strong and straight skeleton, and the change of breaking ribs will be much smaller.
I know you are going to chance the outer look, but that is also possible with the stringer glued in, just cut them away as you go on with the rounded shape
Tunnel is second part to do.
Do use a building jig, it needs to be straight and even else it will cost speed.
I will follow this thread!

@Harold, do make the transom straight, will be much easier mounting hardware. the V2 has a straight transom, my V1 also...

Marcel

slider46

Great information Marcel on the order of sheeting for the hull to keep it straight, It looks like I should have everything ready to sheet by friday, Maybe..... I will post some pics later of what I got done today on the framework, I still have the transome to straighten too.....

KD0EM

[quote]ORIGINAL: MaxCorvette

Hello Marcel, first any and all of your comments all welcome on my tread, I look at every one of them and take them all into consideration, after all who but your self is the designer of the MaxCat, don’t even think worry about commenting on at least my thread good or bad, they are all looked at and taken into consideration. Ok now for the comment on the transom, Thank you very much for sharing that with me, I may start to straiten the transom to night, which I am going to do.
Harold

lildude2599

Slider46 why did you go with 1/4 inch wood? All you needed was 3/16 th. Not saying you wrong but the weight will hurt a bit. As marcel said his is at 22lbs yours may be 26lbs. What thickness wood you got for the skin? Me i went with 1/8 thick but i'm fiberglassing the hull. So i dont have any problems with splits. How do you plan on sealing the hull?

slider46

I am going to use a mixture of 1/8 and 1/16 plywood, I also have a sheet of 1/32 if I need it for something... I only used 1/4 wood on the stringers running the lenght of the boat, this will get the most stress and flexing on ruff water. the frames are all 1/8 plywood. Actually I am supprise how light this hull is so far, I'll end up around 22 lbs when it's all done...
Where did you find 1/8" laun plywood my home depot only has 5.5mm or 1/4"....

slider46

Sorry double post

martno1fan

No need to glass the hull if its built right it will be plenty strong and all the glass will do is add even more weight .
Mart

dicko

Yep, I'd personally only glass the inside seems of the hull that will see the most stress.

slider46

I got alot of the small woodwork done today. You will see in the pictures that I used a piece of 1/2"x3/4" balsa along the sides, this is where the edge will be sanded round to look like the Gieco hull. I also partially cut the 1/4" balsa stringers to make the radius on the nose, once resined these will be hard as a rock..... The bottom is ready for sheeting tomorrow....

lildude2599

Try to see if you can make the transom all the way across the back. Then it will be flat. Look at the red line and you can see what i'm talking about.