Duplicating or "copying" an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
A few more of the completed flange.....very extra wide. The hull still slides right out!
Last pic is daddy's little helper Oh yeah, he discovered a mud puddle just before this was taken
Next I'll prep the flanges for gelcoat and add probably half spheres as alignment pins just before I cover it with more gelcoat and prep as I did with the plug.
Last pic is daddy's little helper Oh yeah, he discovered a mud puddle just before this was taken
Next I'll prep the flanges for gelcoat and add probably half spheres as alignment pins just before I cover it with more gelcoat and prep as I did with the plug.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Thank you Dana, it's different that most I've seen out there and I guess that's what attracted me the most to it. NVS has had some really good speed numbers lately so we'll see!
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
great progress, thanks for up-dating the thread. i'm very excited to see it moving along. the more i do, the more i want one. i started a thread asking about a mounting system for my motor, and got a few replies. hopefully it will work out. i also posted pics of my motor, if you want to see it. the thread is here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8763878/tm.htm thanks again dreamin hemi
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
No problem, here's another for you. Needed a little break thought I'd give a brief up to the minute detail. Just sanded the flanges and used body filler to hid any gaps. Little was required since I kept all the joints tight. Sanded again and applied a light coat of automotive primer. Probably isn't necessary, but hey, I had it. Getting ready to mix some gelcoat in a few minutes.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Almost forgot.
Also adding alignment guides, or pins as some call them. Half spheres and an elongated one I found at my hardware store.... supposed to be used for toilet seat bumpers or something like that....PERFECT! These are made from hard plastic and even have a tack on the opposite side! Only 4 are really needed to keep the mold halves in perfect alignment once they come together. The longer ones came with the kit, so I figured I'd use them. Used super glue to hold them in place and will be gelcoating right over them.
Also adding alignment guides, or pins as some call them. Half spheres and an elongated one I found at my hardware store.... supposed to be used for toilet seat bumpers or something like that....PERFECT! These are made from hard plastic and even have a tack on the opposite side! Only 4 are really needed to keep the mold halves in perfect alignment once they come together. The longer ones came with the kit, so I figured I'd use them. Used super glue to hold them in place and will be gelcoating right over them.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
OK, at this point a heavy application of gelcoat has been placed on the made flanges. I used an old autmotive spray gun and thinned the gelcoat out with acetone. You can use other means of covering the wood, but I know a resin based product will NOT be incompatible so I choose this product. May take a little more effort to smooth out and shine up but I know it works, and the end results will be worth the effort.
The last picture is of the gelcoated flanges covered with a green layer of PVA. Not doing so will make the surface of the gelcoat stay "gummy" and not harden. PVA keeps the air out and allows the catalyst to fully cure the resins in the gel. When I'm ready to wetsand the area, I'll use a wet sponge and wipe off the PVA....yes, it's that easy.
The last picture is of the gelcoated flanges covered with a green layer of PVA. Not doing so will make the surface of the gelcoat stay "gummy" and not harden. PVA keeps the air out and allows the catalyst to fully cure the resins in the gel. When I'm ready to wetsand the area, I'll use a wet sponge and wipe off the PVA....yes, it's that easy.
#33
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Scott, I just had my first experience with gelcoat and I have to say it is alot different working with polyester resins and gelcoat than using west system epoxy resins. The PVA worked great even when your gelcoating the outside layer for the finish color like I did on my transom doorway... Your mold half looks great, how tight of a space are you working with between the hull and flange???
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Scott,
What makes the resin based product not compatible? Also elaborate what you are saying about the PVA over the gel coat keeping things from staying tacky.
I know you're a teacher so I can get by with the questions
Thanks,
Paul
What makes the resin based product not compatible? Also elaborate what you are saying about the PVA over the gel coat keeping things from staying tacky.
I know you're a teacher so I can get by with the questions
Thanks,
Paul
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
ORIGINAL: slider46
Scott, I just had my first experience with gelcoat and I have to say it is alot different working with polyester resins and gelcoat than using west system epoxy resins. The PVA worked great even when your gelcoating the outside layer for the finish color like I did on my transom doorway... Your mold half looks great, how tight of a space are you working with between the hull and flange???
Scott, I just had my first experience with gelcoat and I have to say it is alot different working with polyester resins and gelcoat than using west system epoxy resins. The PVA worked great even when your gelcoating the outside layer for the finish color like I did on my transom doorway... Your mold half looks great, how tight of a space are you working with between the hull and flange???
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
ORIGINAL: Paul M
Scott,
What makes the resin based product not compatible? Also elaborate what you are saying about the PVA over the gel coat keeping things from staying tacky.
I know you're a teacher so I can get by with the questions
Thanks,
Paul
Scott,
What makes the resin based product not compatible? Also elaborate what you are saying about the PVA over the gel coat keeping things from staying tacky.
I know you're a teacher so I can get by with the questions
Thanks,
Paul
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
ORIGINAL: slider46
... how tight of a space are you working with between the hull and flange???
... how tight of a space are you working with between the hull and flange???
As you can see in the pictures, there really is no clearance. What little there will be will have to be sealed at a 90 degree angle by using non hardening and non drying modeling clay. You'll see that step soon. You can also really see the green PVA contrasting with the white hull in these pictures.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Yeah, ditto. Good thread. I'm still trying to guess the next steps, sorta like a masked painting. Just a little hard for my brain to understand but fun.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Well, we can make a game out of it if you like... Next step was to remove the PVA and sand smooth. Gelcoat is just so easy to work with and sands easily. I used 320 to start, 400 and finally finished with 600 grit.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
A game of sorts, I'm in as its a learning experience
I'm currious as to why you're buffiing the lip and doing all the gelcoat work on it. This is the bottom half of the clam shell right? So the inside you'll do with the moulding clay and then work it around the hull?
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Yes, this is the bottom half of the clamshell, so to speak. I'm doing all that gelcoat work on it because like the plug, I want the fiberglass to easily release from the flange....remember, it's only there to hold the shape while the glass is curing. It will most likely be destroyed while attempting to remove the frame. However it would have served it's intended and designed use.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Ok, me thinks a bit differently now.... this will be used to as the first step in the actual mould right? Now you'll get the clay and make the impression, lay glass inside the clay once its hardened then that will then become the actual moulde? Sorry for thinking ahead, its part of my job.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
sweet, more progress. i just place my order for a waterproof killswitch, i'll be ordering the motor we talked about next week. hopfully if all goes well i will be making the trip down to see you within a month. i can't wait to see this in person. hopefully after we're done, you'll have some time to help me get it dailed in and try for some speed runs. keep up the great work and posting your progress, as i love seeing it coming together. thanks again, tony
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Sounds good Tony. Looking forward to your visit. T-Daddy gave me a visit a few weeks ago.
Spending most of my day waxing the plug in preparation for molding. Need at least 6 coats but aiming for 10. Have to wait at least 30 minutes between coats to allow the wax to gas off. Could probably begin molding the hatch today but it's way too humid to begin spraying gelcoat today. Doing so opens the opportunity for tripe, something I definately don't want to see.
Just started using TR MoldRelease wax. Used to use a green product called PartAll, but problem was it takes too much elbow grease to remove, and never really dries. This stuff is much more slippery than what I had before and MUCH easier to remove. Never going back to the "green stuff" again. Once the 10 coats are applied, I'll use my oil based clay and fill in the gaps and start the molding process.
Spending most of my day waxing the plug in preparation for molding. Need at least 6 coats but aiming for 10. Have to wait at least 30 minutes between coats to allow the wax to gas off. Could probably begin molding the hatch today but it's way too humid to begin spraying gelcoat today. Doing so opens the opportunity for tripe, something I definately don't want to see.
Just started using TR MoldRelease wax. Used to use a green product called PartAll, but problem was it takes too much elbow grease to remove, and never really dries. This stuff is much more slippery than what I had before and MUCH easier to remove. Never going back to the "green stuff" again. Once the 10 coats are applied, I'll use my oil based clay and fill in the gaps and start the molding process.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Oh, here's the hatch, just before adding PVA over the gelcoat. It was prepped with a flange the same way as the hull with a flexable 3/32" sheet glued to the bottom of the hatch edges where I created a flat spot with body filler. It's since been sanded and polished same way as the rest of the hull, and already has 10 coats of mold release over it.
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
TR wax is pretty good but i find CERA wax much better and a very compatible with PVA
Anyone that is going to use PVA just be aware some waxes are not compatible it will fish eye o job or just bleed off like silocone so always ask for compatible wax
Lovin ya work there scott this is a great thread and shows the justification why a good hull does not cost $50 to build
Quality takes time and good quality materials
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RE: Duplicating an existing hull...ETHICALLY!
Thanks Dion, I'll burn through this jar and give that brand a try later on. Had a few issues as you described but Iknow now that it was applied too thick for a first coat. Regrouping for tomorrow as it's very humid here today.
Did the clay work and you see that here. The clay is oil based and will not dry, crack or harden. The largest gapI had was on the hatch flange. The hull's largest gap is maybe 1/16". This stuff tools great and will seal the edge preventing resin from locking the mold to the plug.
Did the clay work and you see that here. The clay is oil based and will not dry, crack or harden. The largest gapI had was on the hatch flange. The hull's largest gap is maybe 1/16". This stuff tools great and will seal the edge preventing resin from locking the mold to the plug.