dicko

After being given this bare hull over a year ago, I finally spent the past week building it up. I had to install the rails & make the radio box to start with, then I pulled a lot of the hardware off my woody to finish it off. I only bought a handfull of parts like the header, water line, cowl latches, nuts & bolts, the rest of the stuff I had lying around. I even used the decals from my TS2 to dress it up a little.

Now all I need is for the weather to clear up to start testing it before I race it next weekend.

dicko

Few more pics

noahdear

My Feedback: (2)

lucky bugger ! It looks good.

dicko

It was a bit of work, I had to re-do the tips of each sponson to bring them to a point & also make a nice carbon wing tip for the front section between the sponsons, he hadn't finished that off & it was a flat front. I also added through hull flush mount pick ups so that each cooling section has its own line, including the rudder pick up there's 3 in total. The hardest part now is getting the right prop set up at the right height to get it going. As this is one of only 2 hulls he popped from the mold (the other is in my hobby room waiting for him to get the funds for me to finish it for him) there is absolutely no set up guide to go with. I'll be starting from scratch using a general set up that will work on most cats & adjust from there.

FlogginHarvey

Boat looks great ...Nice Dobie!

dicko

Thanks, the Dobie isn't into the RC stuff as much as my Rottie, the Rottie comes running as soon as she hears the buzz of the servos.

I got it wet today. I have to tweak the water pickups a bit, I've already cut the strut groove higher so I can raise the prop further out of the water & also added some new rear mounts to raise the rear of the engine up a little higher. I used an old flex that previously snapped in the sport hydro & thought it would be OK (I cut it a lot shorter than where it snapped in the hydro & there were no outward signs of wear). I was wrong. I only got to test 2 props before the flex snapped on the way out to test the third prop. D'oh. At least the flex saver did it's job & i didn't lose any prop or shafts.

So far it's hit 74 kph (~45mph) which for it's first run on a stock 260PUM isn't too bad, there's definitely a lot to go. I think I can get it to low - mid 80s once I've finished tweaking using the stock engine, time will tell. I want to drop a modded 231 in there when I get some cash. The guys racing at my club are running 231s, so I may as well add another boat to that class.

I'll order a new flex tomorrow & hopefully get out on friday to do a bit more testing.

brodjack

Nice looking cat,nice dog too[8D]
Is it a *****?
Heres one of mine.giving the evil eye..
Brod..

the **** didnt show,means girl dog....

dicko

yep, both are #$%^s, here's a pic of my two.

After changing the engine position I need more clearance for the carby under the hatch, so it's going into my chop shop today to get a bit of a carbon shroud inserted where the carb is located under the hatch for better breathing. Should be ready in a couple of days. I'll take some pics along the way & post them here.

painman

Since you are ordering a new flex shaft for your boat you might try moving your strut back to the second hole in the strut. I moved mine back and it really helped the boat handling. I thought you might give a try before cutting the shaft to short and not being able to back up later to give it a try. It really seems to have helped the speed as well. My strut is about 1/4" above the bottom of the sponsons and running a 2716/2 15* degree rake prop. Seems to be best out of the box of props I have. The 6717 is OK as well.

Good Luck;

Randy

dicko

I was heading out with the 2716 when the flex snapped. I have one that is BC & cupped although I'm not sure the degree of cup.

I'll try the second hole back & see how that goes too, thanks for the tip. I'm about to start cutting & moulding the scoop for the carb now.

painman

I am only sharing information I got from another racer, I tried and it payed off. Thought I would pass along, as you are having to purchase a flex shaft anyway. Keep us posted and let us know how it works. You will like the 2716/2 I do all my own props, and I added a lot of cup to mine, BSP.

Hope all goes well;

Randy[sm=shades_smile.gif]

dicko

Just finished molding the new carb cover, I used the base of an icecream tub to mold over, I use packaging tape on the bench top & over the tub to hold it in place & make it easy to pop it off once it has cured. I then laid 2 pieces of carbon each way (3 ways) for a final thickness of 4 layers once they've overlapped. When I glass (or carbon) it to the cowl it will get more layers overlapping it to make it even stronger. I need this point to be strong as it's where I am mounting the cowl latch to.

I then covered that with some coarse peel ply to absorb any excess resin & help the carbon keep it's shape while it cures. The trick to crarbon is to get just the right amount of resin into the cloth, too much & it isn't strong enough & too little & it will part & won't hold the curves properly. Once it has set I'll peel the peel ply off , pop it off the mold & fit it to the cowl, then carbon it into place. I'll do that tomorrow.

Here's some pics so far.

dicko

A few more pics of the carb cover. First two are of the cover removed from the mold & with the peel ply removed, second two are the cover sanded back ready for a coat of epoxy to seal it all. The last two are of the cover with the sealing coat applied, the red plastic tub in the background of the last pic is the cut up ice cream tub I used to get the shape I wanted. Tomorrow morning I'll cut it to shape & fit it to the cowl & bog it in place. Wednesday I'll glass it in place if I don't get to it tomorrow night. It's time to sit back in front of the box & have a brew or two.

painman

Nice glass work, not your first day. Did you use poly or epoxy? If poly why not use finishing? Never worked with the cardon fiber, looks sweet.

Randy

dicko

Thanks, I only use epoxy resins. I use the same resin for all (well most of) my work. It's a good strong resin that I use on my full sized sail boat that I race. If it's strong enough for that, it's strong enough for this. Once it has set & I've got it secured into the cowl I will clear coat it with a 2 pack polyurethane paint to finish it off.

dicko

Here's a few pics of the carb cover & cowl cut out & taped together ready to be bogged together. Once the bog has set it will be trimmed back with a sanding dick & carboned in place.

dicko

A couple more pics with it bogged in place. I used a black tint in the mix so that it will look neat & matches the carbon fiber on the outside once it's sanded back & clear coated.

dicko

Here it is glassed in place, I ended up with some sharp 90* bends so I decided to glass it in instaed of using carbon fiber as carbon won't form around the bends properly. It's not tacky anymore, but I'll wait until tomorrow before I drill the holes for the cowl latch & sand it back to spray on the clear. you can see what it will look like though.

painman

Looks good, are you going to put some air intake holes in the back side of the cowl? Would think that would allow more air to get to carb with better perfomance. Just thought I would mention, sure you have already planned on air intake.

Good Luck;

Randy

dicko

Yep, I will drill some holes today when I put the cowl latch back on & tidy it all up. Pitty I won't get a chance to run it again until open water in practise before this weekends race. All the races this weekend will be test sessions for it.