Raylon

Hey guys,

With some awesome advice from a fellow RCU member, I picked up a new Aeromarine Challenger on eBay today. Here's the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Just wanted to hear any experiences with this boat and what kind of props you are running. Also, let me know if you see anything on the boat that could be made better. I noticed it could use some more flotation. Also, any advantages to running a gas bag over a gas tank? Hope to hear lots of good things from you guys! I will get pictures and video ASAP.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

For now I would leave the tank in there - it is a huge tank so dont fill it more than half. IV bags are good in that they will not contaminate with water if you flip and also no possible issues with vent blockage/restriction, no sucking air as the tank gets low (provided you burp the bag correctly). They are also more compact and conform to most spaces you need to fit it. IV's are a little more work though - you have to burp them each time you fill. You have to condition the bag when new (takes a few days to do) - at least the Baxter IV bags you must. You cannot store them empty or with air in them. As a rule I will use an IV bag with a smaller setup and a bigger tank in a larger boat where space, weight are of less issue. If I buy a boat which has a tank I use the tank until it needs to be replaced.

The 275 prather is always something to have in your prop box. You will never regret owning one and it will work on any gas boat with good to great results. I have seen national chamionships won with the 275 so it is capable.

Raylon

Thanks Matt. I willl definitely keep the tank in there for now. It's been a while since I have sharpened and balanced a prop. I will go pick up one or two 275's and see how it goes. Basing my experience on the Thundercat, I am guessing that the flex cable wear down after time and need replacing. Where do most people buy their cables from? Also, any good site on where to get cable savers? I haven't had a flex cable break, but if I do, I would love to be able to save my prop if it ever does happen.

Also. I notice the JR XS3 it comes with is crystal free, as you can select what frequency you want to be on. Does it have to be paired with a matching receiver or can I use any old 75mhz receiver I have laying around, and just match the channels?

One more thing. Any recommended autobailers? Also, where do you put them on a V-Hull?

KNahinu

First thing.. The receiver needs to be compatable with your jr radio, then you can use crystals.
Next thing I personaly don't care for autobailers. Sometimes things get lodged in there and can cause more problems. I lost a boat that way. Autobailers are usually at the lowest point in the hull.

Raylon

That sounds unfortunate. I'm guessing that it stayed open and allowed water in somehow? I don't think I will have to worry that much about that, because the boat will never be far away and always close.

dicko

With that transmitter you need a JR 300 or 310 receiver. There are 2 dials on them that you turn to match the frequency selected on your transmitter.

Raylon

Ok, I will start looking for a place to get one of those cheap.

Once thing I noticed about the boat is that the exhaust doesn't have a rubber ring around it or anything, it just sticks out of a hole in the body. I am thinking that the paint will start to chip around this point and wear that area. Is it going to be very hard to find a ring that size or is there another method to fix that?

mymammushouse

just wanted to say, nice purchase

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

It looks like the pipe uses a silicon coupler to connect the header to the pipe which will probably keep the pipe from moving around with the movement of the motor to a large extent. Probably the best option (and most scale) is to use a large exhaust tip and pass the stinger out through the tip.

If you wanted to give yourself a little extra cushioning at the stinger end of the pipe you could use a piece of silicon coupler (though may have to open up the hole in the transom a little to fit). Another option is a through firewall cable protector (though the transom is probably a little too thick to make this work as clean). I have also used the protective cover off a heat resistant hose clamp (though they dont always end up a clean fit).



Autobailers are not totally necessary in my opinion - if you have that much water getting into the boat then you probably have a problem that needs attention (and if you have no bailer you can better see how big your leak is). I have heard many complain about how they can sometimes clog with debris and allow water back into the boat - my opinion on that is that the inside of the hull should be spotless to keep the carb from ingesting debris. If they are in a boat I keep them but cannot remember the last time I purchased a set. They should be installed at the lowest point in the hull (or to the side of the stuffing tube).

Raylon

That would seem to be the best option, to use the scale tips. The pipe is right in the middle, not at the top of the back, so it won't look extremely scale, but good enough. Where do I buy the ones in your picture above? I found some at WHH, but they are plastic and I don't think they would hold up to the heat. I found Aeromarine has some, but it doesn't say much about them. I'm hoping to get some that will hold up. Also, the pipe sticks out a lot. Should I just keep it that way or is it okay to shorten the pipe up a bit? I am guessing no but it seems it's just straight and skinny al the way back.

I will hold off on the autobailer for now.

pyro1

Very nice purchase. I noticed that the cooling lines should perhaps be re routed. It appears that you have hot water leaving the manifold then going to the cylinder jacket. I would put the fresh cool water through the jacket first then through the manifold to the wet exhaust. Just a thought.
Enjoy your new boat & congrats!!!

pyro1

Raylon

Thanks pyro1! Thanks for noticing that, because I had not. I am slightly confused about all the water hoses. I see three coming from the water pump, and three from the manifold. Not sure where all the hoses are coming from and going to.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Up north when running in cooler water temps (like we are in for) it is not uncommon to reverse the lines to be the way it is currently setup (header then head) to ensure you dont overcool the motor - basically using the header to preheat the water before it gets to the head. Something you might consider changing late spring but for now it could be left as is.

I dont see so many people carrying exhaust tips - http://bonzisports.com/catalogue/pro...roducts_id=131 for $20 - I am sure theres better deals out there though.

Raylon

That is interesting, never thought about that. The water here never gets pretty cold, sometime freezing, so I may leave it that way for the winter.

So I went to my LHS, and asked if they had the prop I needed, and of course they didn't. So I think I will be putting an order into Aeromarine soon to get a prop, exhaust tips, and a shaft saver, even though I can't seem to find that last item. Also, differences between stainless and bronze? I have only worked with bronze before.

Quick questions about break in. What ratio of oil to use for break in and regular running?

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

For break in and general running stick with 8oz of quality oil per gallon of fuel. (I add 8oz to my gallon fuel can and then fill with 87octane) Works out to around 16:1 though 20:1 is good. Dont be tempted to run high octane or octane boosters - it wont help performance what so ever - just runs hotter and costs more.
For oil I run a Synthetic castor blend which is available at bike shops. For break in you might want to run something without synthetic as synthetic will slow the break in. I personally use white gas (Coleman fuel or Ozark at Walmart) instead of 87octane. It has NO SMELL so if your boat is in the house your wife wont be after you for the stink. There is ZERO performance difference between Coleman fuel and gasoline. I have found that it does not go bad like Gas though when stored for extended periods. It is more expensive than Gas but worth it to keep the wife quiet. Smells more pleasant when burnt too - especially when running with Castor

Stainless or Bronze (or aluminum) is not going to make a huge difference unless your going to be doing a lot of prop work. It is much easier to work a bronze prop than stainless - both in removing material, polishing, thinning, and also modifying. Stainless takes much more work but will not dull or tarnish over time. There are plenty of tips pinned to the top of the General forum I believe. Also take note of the health hazards associated to the various metals.

Can give you more tips when your ready for your first run

Raylon

Boat came in yesterday, got some quick pictures of it today. Packaging was good, boat is in great shape. Only wear I can see is a small scratch by the hatch and some wear on the left rudder, neither of the two is a very big deal. Will get some better pictures up tommorrow.

Raylon

Quick question about the setup on the boat. The water goes to the exhaust, then to the engine head, then is dumped into the exhaust. I have almost always seen water come out of the side of the boat. Is this normal? I am afraid if the boat flips that water will rush into the engine, or that water will just sit in the tuned pipe. Should this be fixed?

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Pipe is a wet tuned pipe. Not a bad thing - will tend to keep the engine bay a little cooler and also will often keep the noise down. You will not see quite as much power as a properly adjusted dry pipe but if sport boating then the difference will be pretty close to negligible.

Thing I found on one of my boats was that when the boat got loud I knew it was not flowing water and shut her down - turned out I had some plastic over my intake.

Raylon

Ok, I have heard of that setup before but I completely forgot about it. Do I have anything to worry about if the boat flips? I mean the boat is gigantic(to me coming from a 31in boat), so I don't think it will, but it will be tossed up against some decent waves.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

She should not be real easy to flip though waves will certainly make it easier.

Add some pool noodles to the front and sides of the hull and cable tie them in place (preferrably attaching them to the motor rails in one or two places). Also cut a portion of noodle in half lengthwise and attach to the underside of the hatch using adheasive or silicon. Just in case the hatch comes off. Keep in mind though - the more noodles you can fit in the hull - the less water will fill it (though noodles add a little weight - not much though).

If the conditions are very windy or rough you could add a little more fuel to that huge tank which should help keep the bow down a little more - going to depend on conditions though - you will learn how she handles and flys in various conditions.

Raylon

Here are a few more pictures. Few things we have noticed. One of the rudders is loose, not exactly sure how it stays tight. The radio box screws were too wide, and only got partial wood. Planning on epoxying the box down and then putting better positioned screws in the radio box. Also, paint needs to be touched up in a few spots. Was wondering if it was an actual Aeromarine hull, and on the bottom there is an Aeromarine Logo with Serial Number. This hull is amazing looking. Can't wait to see it in the water.

skboatman

Raylon......Very KOOL boat ....nice find on ebay !!!! Great paint job ......I wish you very much luck & good times with it . Can you tell I'm jealous !!!LOL....but seriously ....good luck !!!! SK

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Ok - so it this artist formerly known as Zelatio??

I personally would consider using silicon rather than epoxy to secure the radio box. Epoxy will probably mean you have to smash the box to access behind it or make any changes - silicon will be secure but you shoul dbe able to cut it with a knife if you ever decide the box needs to come out.

Boat looks great - dont be shy with the pics (I like pics!!)

Raylon

Yep, had a change in names. Here is a link to the originals:

http://rynwohld.smugmug.com/RC-Toys/.../9936621_xXjgF

They won't all be up at once, but by tomorrow they will be. If you want any of the originals, just let me know.

Raylon

Well, finally got the boat running today. Took some work though to finish her off. The radio box was loose to start off with. We tried the steering and throttle servos and when the steering servo would hit maximum deflection, it would actually move the radio box instead of the rudder. We popped the radio box out and discover they had drilled large drywall screws straight down into the stringer, pretty much destroying it. We decided to take two peices of oak and cut them out in a L shape. Then, we epoxied them to the stringers, making a larger surface for the screw to go into. It worked out pretty well. Next the rudder system wasn't very secure, had to take it apart and put it back together the correct way. Took the idle screw out of the motor, used trim to adjust during first run. Also, the drive has a place for a grease gun. We ran some grease in, expecting it to come out the back by the prop, like it had on our previous boat. Instead it came out all by the clutch. We cleaned it out as best as we could but it was zingin some grease during that first run.

Dry fired the boat to make sure it ran. One choked with the thumb it fired straight up. Put it in the water and let it get some water flowing. After a little of that took if for a few slow laps. Definitely a lot noiser than that sill ol' .32 nitro motor. It sounds fantastic though and looks mean with that bright pain job. Ran it probably excessively rich with too much oil, it was very hesitant, but got it leaned out a little and it was running pretty well. I hope to get some videos and pictures of the next run. Thanks to those that helped me up to this point, I am sure I will need help with something else eventually.

Oh, we ordered a bronze 275 from Aeromarine. They ended up charging us and sending us a Stainless 275. Not a big deal but certainly a challenge to get it sharpened and balanced. Looks good now though.