Aquacraft Rio 51z
#51
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , AB, CANADA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#53
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Macatawa ,
MI
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
OK - SUPER NEWBIE here - thanks to my wife & kids I own this Rio 51Z ( birthday gift last week) having never run an RC boat ( I'm a slot car guy).
I've not yet put it on water ( wehave a summer home on Lake MichiganHolland Michigan), believing Ineed toknow as much as possible before doing so.I think I've read everything I can including the provided directions with the boat - and quite a bit on the forum here as a new member; the local hobby shop has also been helpful.
With flat water on Lake Michigan predicted for this weekend - I am planning to conduct "sea trials", but just realized that no where in the directions does it indicate how to shut off power to the Zen motor...(?). I've read this thread which includes adding a engine kill device, but short of that - what is done to shut down power?Closing the choke is the only thing that comes to mind - but I'd appreciate any advise from an experienced source - THANKS!!
Tim Wondergem
I've not yet put it on water ( wehave a summer home on Lake MichiganHolland Michigan), believing Ineed toknow as much as possible before doing so.I think I've read everything I can including the provided directions with the boat - and quite a bit on the forum here as a new member; the local hobby shop has also been helpful.
With flat water on Lake Michigan predicted for this weekend - I am planning to conduct "sea trials", but just realized that no where in the directions does it indicate how to shut off power to the Zen motor...(?). I've read this thread which includes adding a engine kill device, but short of that - what is done to shut down power?Closing the choke is the only thing that comes to mind - but I'd appreciate any advise from an experienced source - THANKS!!
Tim Wondergem
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hialeah,
FL
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Depending on your radio (dont have a Rio myself) you will need to adjust the EPA (End Point Adjustment) on the throttle so when you push forward it closes the carb butterfly enough to shut down the engine.
I would strongly recomend that you purchase a kill switch or at the very least a fail safe device. Killer Bee products seem to be the prefered choice with many here.
Good Luck and dont forget the video and pics
Leo
I would strongly recomend that you purchase a kill switch or at the very least a fail safe device. Killer Bee products seem to be the prefered choice with many here.
Good Luck and dont forget the video and pics
Leo
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Houston,
TX
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Slipstick - I am aslo pretty new to this but may be able to help with at least this part; got my Rio for fathers's day!
The new Rio 51Z has a kill switch installed - move the throttle trigger all the way forward and this will kill the engine. This is a good thing to develop to the point of becoming instinctive so you can keep the boat out of trouble if you need to.
I would recommend building a little water hookup from your garden hose so you can practice starting and stopping the engine before you head to the lake. Takes away the frustration of looking at all that smooth water (on Lake Michigan?) while you figure things out. Make sure there is a stream of water flowing out the port side outlet before you run the engine and keep everything clear of the prop as it is a direct drive. Keep the revs way down - winding it out without being in the water is not good for the drive.
The low speed idle should be set fairly well out of the box, but this gives you the chance to make sure. I opened up the high speed needle just a little to avoid running lean during breakin as well as using the reccomended higher ratio gas/oil mix for breaking in the engine.
Check to make sure all the screws/bolts are tight - I lost the rudder pin set screw first day on the 2nd run and that ended the day's fun early. Also started using a little locktiite on the set screw threads after the second one vibrated out. Check the exhaust bolts especially during the first few runs and tighten them if needed.
Good luck! Think you will find this alot more fun than the slot cars but probably good to keep them around for the winter up there!
The new Rio 51Z has a kill switch installed - move the throttle trigger all the way forward and this will kill the engine. This is a good thing to develop to the point of becoming instinctive so you can keep the boat out of trouble if you need to.
I would recommend building a little water hookup from your garden hose so you can practice starting and stopping the engine before you head to the lake. Takes away the frustration of looking at all that smooth water (on Lake Michigan?) while you figure things out. Make sure there is a stream of water flowing out the port side outlet before you run the engine and keep everything clear of the prop as it is a direct drive. Keep the revs way down - winding it out without being in the water is not good for the drive.
The low speed idle should be set fairly well out of the box, but this gives you the chance to make sure. I opened up the high speed needle just a little to avoid running lean during breakin as well as using the reccomended higher ratio gas/oil mix for breaking in the engine.
Check to make sure all the screws/bolts are tight - I lost the rudder pin set screw first day on the 2nd run and that ended the day's fun early. Also started using a little locktiite on the set screw threads after the second one vibrated out. Check the exhaust bolts especially during the first few runs and tighten them if needed.
Good luck! Think you will find this alot more fun than the slot cars but probably good to keep them around for the winter up there!
#57
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Macatawa ,
MI
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Thanks all -
rdeakins - regarding the "practice" idea (sounds good), I assume you somehow hook up a water supply to the intake tube on the transom...(?), not sure how to get a water stream into that straw...? Good advise on checking the bolts ( for which I bought the 3 & 4 mm hex drivers...).
I think I will invest in the kill switch.
Is is recommended to purchase additional prop.'s right away? I've been following some threads on that and have looked into ABC Prop's for sourcing. Speaking of prop.'s - is it critical to sharpen and tune the prop before running the first time? ...or is the stock prop in stock trim sufficient for break in running.
Finally - re: break-in for the Zen - the directions suggest using a non-synthetic oil for break-in, so I mixed 8oz. of Lawn Boy Ashless oil into 1/2 gallon on 92 octane...is this the "proper" protocol? I then plan to run 16:1 with Klotz 2 cycle synthetic...(?).
Even though the directions are silent to the issue of cable oil - I lurked around this forum and learned that ( contrary to the hobby shop owners suggestion that I simply use the Klotz synthetic engine oil in the cable oil reserve) Grim Racer was the proper choice so
I also ordered a life long supply of Grim Racer Cable oil ( I got 3 of the 32 oz. bottles - not sure how fast the boat goes through it...).
As I write I am overlooking 78-degree, flat water on Lake Michigan - and about 20 minutes away from a beautiful sunset...might just bite the bullet this weekend....more to follow.
Tim
rdeakins - regarding the "practice" idea (sounds good), I assume you somehow hook up a water supply to the intake tube on the transom...(?), not sure how to get a water stream into that straw...? Good advise on checking the bolts ( for which I bought the 3 & 4 mm hex drivers...).
I think I will invest in the kill switch.
Is is recommended to purchase additional prop.'s right away? I've been following some threads on that and have looked into ABC Prop's for sourcing. Speaking of prop.'s - is it critical to sharpen and tune the prop before running the first time? ...or is the stock prop in stock trim sufficient for break in running.
Finally - re: break-in for the Zen - the directions suggest using a non-synthetic oil for break-in, so I mixed 8oz. of Lawn Boy Ashless oil into 1/2 gallon on 92 octane...is this the "proper" protocol? I then plan to run 16:1 with Klotz 2 cycle synthetic...(?).
Even though the directions are silent to the issue of cable oil - I lurked around this forum and learned that ( contrary to the hobby shop owners suggestion that I simply use the Klotz synthetic engine oil in the cable oil reserve) Grim Racer was the proper choice so
I also ordered a life long supply of Grim Racer Cable oil ( I got 3 of the 32 oz. bottles - not sure how fast the boat goes through it...).
As I write I am overlooking 78-degree, flat water on Lake Michigan - and about 20 minutes away from a beautiful sunset...might just bite the bullet this weekend....more to follow.
Tim
#58
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 5,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: slipstick
Thanks all -
rdeakins - regarding the ''practice'' idea (sounds good), I assume you somehow hook up a water supply to the intake tube on the transom...(?), not sure how to get a water stream into that straw...? Good advise on checking the bolts ( for which I bought the 3 & 4 mm hex drivers...).
I think I will invest in the kill switch.
Is is recommended to purchase additional prop.'s right away? I've been following some threads on that and have looked into ABC Prop's for sourcing. Speaking of prop.'s - is it critical to sharpen and tune the prop before running the first time? ...or is the stock prop in stock trim sufficient for break in running.
Finally - re: break-in for the Zen - the directions suggest using a non-synthetic oil for break-in, so I mixed 8oz. of Lawn Boy Ashless oil into 1/2 gallon on 92 octane...is this the ''proper'' protocol? I then plan to run 16:1 with Klotz 2 cycle synthetic...(?).
Even though the directions are silent to the issue of cable oil - I lurked around this forum and learned that ( contrary to the hobby shop owners suggestion that I simply use the Klotz synthetic engine oil in the cable oil reserve) Grim Racer was the proper choice so
I also ordered a life long supply of Grim Racer Cable oil ( I got 3 of the 32 oz. bottles - not sure how fast the boat goes through it...).
As I write I am overlooking 78-degree, flat water on Lake Michigan - and about 20 minutes away from a beautiful sunset...might just bite the bullet this weekend....more to follow.
Tim
Thanks all -
rdeakins - regarding the ''practice'' idea (sounds good), I assume you somehow hook up a water supply to the intake tube on the transom...(?), not sure how to get a water stream into that straw...? Good advise on checking the bolts ( for which I bought the 3 & 4 mm hex drivers...).
I think I will invest in the kill switch.
Is is recommended to purchase additional prop.'s right away? I've been following some threads on that and have looked into ABC Prop's for sourcing. Speaking of prop.'s - is it critical to sharpen and tune the prop before running the first time? ...or is the stock prop in stock trim sufficient for break in running.
Finally - re: break-in for the Zen - the directions suggest using a non-synthetic oil for break-in, so I mixed 8oz. of Lawn Boy Ashless oil into 1/2 gallon on 92 octane...is this the ''proper'' protocol? I then plan to run 16:1 with Klotz 2 cycle synthetic...(?).
Even though the directions are silent to the issue of cable oil - I lurked around this forum and learned that ( contrary to the hobby shop owners suggestion that I simply use the Klotz synthetic engine oil in the cable oil reserve) Grim Racer was the proper choice so
I also ordered a life long supply of Grim Racer Cable oil ( I got 3 of the 32 oz. bottles - not sure how fast the boat goes through it...).
As I write I am overlooking 78-degree, flat water on Lake Michigan - and about 20 minutes away from a beautiful sunset...might just bite the bullet this weekend....more to follow.
Tim
you need a load on the motor to break in and seat the rings right, and to last a long time
and with the stock prop, it works great for break in and with good tune afterwards still works great
I'm going to run 32:1 Amsoil in mine this next week.. I ran 10:1 non synthetic for break in
and this boat comes with a kill switch you do not need to buy another one
#59
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , AB, CANADA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
that aint no kill switch. check out www.killerRC.com
You need to watch thier vids.
Ohh ya burned up 2 tanks and humm the boatruns pretty well.
Oh one bolt sheared off the stock exhaust first 5 min.....not fun repair.
Weak exhaust bolts so I replaced thoseand 20 min later went out for more.
Should have the tuned pipe mounted this week end and breakin done.
I'll post pics when done.
You need to watch thier vids.
Ohh ya burned up 2 tanks and humm the boatruns pretty well.
Oh one bolt sheared off the stock exhaust first 5 min.....not fun repair.
Weak exhaust bolts so I replaced thoseand 20 min later went out for more.
Should have the tuned pipe mounted this week end and breakin done.
I'll post pics when done.
#60
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , AB, CANADA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Cool.... My Rio 51z was a birthday gift also to me, on my 51.
P.S.
Kill switch is on the motor, red button or if stock set up just hit the breaks
Mind you, you prob. figured it out already..
P.S.
Kill switch is on the motor, red button or if stock set up just hit the breaks
Mind you, you prob. figured it out already..
ORIGINAL: slipstick
OK - SUPER NEWBIE here - thanks to my wife & kids I own this Rio 51Z ( birthday gift last week) having never run an RC boat ( I'm a slot car guy).
I've not yet put it on water ( wehave a summer home on Lake MichiganHolland Michigan), believing Ineed toknow as much as possible before doing so.I think I've read everything I can including the provided directions with the boat - and quite a bit on the forum here as a new member; the local hobby shop has also been helpful.
With flat water on Lake Michigan predicted for this weekend - I am planning to conduct "sea trials", but just realized that no where in the directions does it indicate how to shut off power to the Zen motor...(?). I've read this thread which includes adding a engine kill device, but short of that - what is done to shut down power?Closing the choke is the only thing that comes to mind - but I'd appreciate any advise from an experienced source - THANKS!!
Tim Wondergem
OK - SUPER NEWBIE here - thanks to my wife & kids I own this Rio 51Z ( birthday gift last week) having never run an RC boat ( I'm a slot car guy).
I've not yet put it on water ( wehave a summer home on Lake MichiganHolland Michigan), believing Ineed toknow as much as possible before doing so.I think I've read everything I can including the provided directions with the boat - and quite a bit on the forum here as a new member; the local hobby shop has also been helpful.
With flat water on Lake Michigan predicted for this weekend - I am planning to conduct "sea trials", but just realized that no where in the directions does it indicate how to shut off power to the Zen motor...(?). I've read this thread which includes adding a engine kill device, but short of that - what is done to shut down power?Closing the choke is the only thing that comes to mind - but I'd appreciate any advise from an experienced source - THANKS!!
Tim Wondergem
#62
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , AB, CANADA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Tune pipe mounted for testing.
Just finnished breakin and ran my first tank of
syn. oil mixed 30:1,a couple of needle adjustments and
all the crowd that gathered could say was "wow" and "holy !@#$ that thing is fast"
yep all is working well.Hanson 0 band pipe & #14 header + home made exit tip.
PIctures ...ook
ooh forgot had to regap the plug also just a tiny bit narrower.
Just finnished breakin and ran my first tank of
syn. oil mixed 30:1,a couple of needle adjustments and
all the crowd that gathered could say was "wow" and "holy !@#$ that thing is fast"
yep all is working well.Hanson 0 band pipe & #14 header + home made exit tip.
PIctures ...ook
ooh forgot had to regap the plug also just a tiny bit narrower.
#63
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 5,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: Hardtime
Tune pipe mounted for testing.
Just finnished breakin and ran my first tank of
syn. oil mixed 30:1, a couple of needle adjustments and
all the crowd that gathered could say was ''wow'' and ''holy !@#$ that thing is fast''
yep all is working well.Hanson 0 band pipe & #14 header + home made exit tip.
PIctures ...ook
ooh forgot had to regap the plug also just a tiny bit narrower.
Tune pipe mounted for testing.
Just finnished breakin and ran my first tank of
syn. oil mixed 30:1, a couple of needle adjustments and
all the crowd that gathered could say was ''wow'' and ''holy !@#$ that thing is fast''
yep all is working well.Hanson 0 band pipe & #14 header + home made exit tip.
PIctures ...ook
ooh forgot had to regap the plug also just a tiny bit narrower.
sounds like getting a tuned pipe like this will make our 51z's run great
#64
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: , AB, CANADA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Ok done testing the pipe.
Ordered aHanson1" band pipe and #14 header.
This with my v-stack pipe holder will still allow
just under 1/2inch for tuning and not have the pipe sticking out too far.
The2" pipe from my Cat wouldneed a header too long to get it to fit.
Will start GPS/prop testing when the new setup comes in.
Mean while I have to put the Segad back together.
Will update later.
Ordered aHanson1" band pipe and #14 header.
This with my v-stack pipe holder will still allow
just under 1/2inch for tuning and not have the pipe sticking out too far.
The2" pipe from my Cat wouldneed a header too long to get it to fit.
Will start GPS/prop testing when the new setup comes in.
Mean while I have to put the Segad back together.
Will update later.
#65
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
I have a Yellow rio51z on the way...
I saw a vid of rio w/fuji (1'st gen) and it was haulin mail...
That pipe really makes a difference..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulEA2...eature=related
I understand why the stock muffler was used...
Less trouble for the masses.
Tuned pipes have many things that can lead to failure.
I will be running stock and then order up the prop..
I thought about running a can in the boat.. but I think weight will be a big thing
Being the can is heavy, and having it off to one side of the boat....Not a good thing for handling..
By the way, I am talking about a Aircraft CANNESTER. Has a header and couples to the can..
I saw a vid of rio w/fuji (1'st gen) and it was haulin mail...
That pipe really makes a difference..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulEA2...eature=related
I understand why the stock muffler was used...
Less trouble for the masses.
Tuned pipes have many things that can lead to failure.
I will be running stock and then order up the prop..
I thought about running a can in the boat.. but I think weight will be a big thing
Being the can is heavy, and having it off to one side of the boat....Not a good thing for handling..
By the way, I am talking about a Aircraft CANNESTER. Has a header and couples to the can..
#67
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
good to hear....
Anyone use this box for there electronics??
I have it on it's way...will see if it fits....
I like the idea, of being able to SEE into the radio box...
This way I know if anything is geting wet!>.....
Not sure I am big on thumb screws, but it is easier to replace than a long metal wire ....
if lost....
Anyone use this box for there electronics??
I have it on it's way...will see if it fits....
I like the idea, of being able to SEE into the radio box...
This way I know if anything is geting wet!>.....
Not sure I am big on thumb screws, but it is easier to replace than a long metal wire ....
if lost....
#68
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Perhaps this pipe would work well...
Composite pipes don't get as hot as alum. pipes...
They also are not sensitive to temp. changes in the enviroment....
(don't expand or contract like metals do.)
Also, ES pipes are very quiet, from the pattern community has told me....
A cannester would be the way to go to keep it REALY quiet....
That is what I am aiming for... I want mine quiet....
Composite pipes don't get as hot as alum. pipes...
They also are not sensitive to temp. changes in the enviroment....
(don't expand or contract like metals do.)
Also, ES pipes are very quiet, from the pattern community has told me....
A cannester would be the way to go to keep it REALY quiet....
That is what I am aiming for... I want mine quiet....
#69
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Got my boat....
Yellow...
Looks fantastic....
If there were issues with the amount of suppport on the engine and radio/fuel/oil/ tray...I didn't see any...
Seems like enough epoxy and fiberglass to hold it in place...
I am still going to reinforce stressed areas though....
I do this on ALL my ARF aircrafts and wouldn't stop doing it now.
were do I find info on how to get my prop in tip-top shape/??
Do I need to sharpen it? And what side?
It seems there is a lip on on side and in the back....
I don't think I want to mess with that...
seems like a very nice prop, for a stock one!...
Grim racer prop that is...
Yellow...
Looks fantastic....
If there were issues with the amount of suppport on the engine and radio/fuel/oil/ tray...I didn't see any...
Seems like enough epoxy and fiberglass to hold it in place...
I am still going to reinforce stressed areas though....
I do this on ALL my ARF aircrafts and wouldn't stop doing it now.
were do I find info on how to get my prop in tip-top shape/??
Do I need to sharpen it? And what side?
It seems there is a lip on on side and in the back....
I don't think I want to mess with that...
seems like a very nice prop, for a stock one!...
Grim racer prop that is...
#70
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 5,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: kochj
Got my boat....
Yellow...
Looks fantastic....
If there were issues with the amount of suppport on the engine and radio/fuel/oil/ tray...I didn't see any...
Seems like enough epoxy and fiberglass to hold it in place...
I am still going to reinforce stressed areas though....
I do this on ALL my ARF aircrafts and wouldn't stop doing it now.
were do I find info on how to get my prop in tip-top shape/??
Do I need to sharpen it? And what side?
It seems there is a lip on on side and in the back....
I don't think I want to mess with that...
seems like a very nice prop, for a stock one!...
Grim racer prop that is...
Got my boat....
Yellow...
Looks fantastic....
If there were issues with the amount of suppport on the engine and radio/fuel/oil/ tray...I didn't see any...
Seems like enough epoxy and fiberglass to hold it in place...
I am still going to reinforce stressed areas though....
I do this on ALL my ARF aircrafts and wouldn't stop doing it now.
were do I find info on how to get my prop in tip-top shape/??
Do I need to sharpen it? And what side?
It seems there is a lip on on side and in the back....
I don't think I want to mess with that...
seems like a very nice prop, for a stock one!...
Grim racer prop that is...
#71
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Thanks...
I did a search and found some good info about props...
I also found it very interesting that the # of blades isn't as so important as the SHAPE of the blade...
I will post picts of the blade I have and what I did to it...
Right now, I am letting the epoxy/glass cloth dry.
I moved the electronics, gas and oil tank to get a good look at the glue job...
Looked good...but I still added more...
Will post video ect... I want to do a HD camera/video....but I just purchased this boat...
I don't think I should make a 1,200$ purchase .
I did a search and found some good info about props...
I also found it very interesting that the # of blades isn't as so important as the SHAPE of the blade...
I will post picts of the blade I have and what I did to it...
Right now, I am letting the epoxy/glass cloth dry.
I moved the electronics, gas and oil tank to get a good look at the glue job...
Looked good...but I still added more...
Will post video ect... I want to do a HD camera/video....but I just purchased this boat...
I don't think I should make a 1,200$ purchase .
#73
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
16/1 oil/gas ratio!???
That is quite rich even for petrolium based oil (lawnboy ashless)
I mixed 32-1 and may add a little more but 16-1 ???
I have 32 or 40 to 1 for all my gas aircrafts ( dependent apon if syn. or not)
Is this what everyone else runs?
That is quite rich even for petrolium based oil (lawnboy ashless)
I mixed 32-1 and may add a little more but 16-1 ???
I have 32 or 40 to 1 for all my gas aircrafts ( dependent apon if syn. or not)
Is this what everyone else runs?
#74
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 5,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: kochj
16/1 oil/gas ratio!???
That is quite rich even for petrolium based oil (lawnboy ashless)
I mixed 32-1 and may add a little more but 16-1 ???
I have 32 or 40 to 1 for all my gas aircrafts ( dependent apon if syn. or not)
Is this what everyone else runs?
16/1 oil/gas ratio!???
That is quite rich even for petrolium based oil (lawnboy ashless)
I mixed 32-1 and may add a little more but 16-1 ???
I have 32 or 40 to 1 for all my gas aircrafts ( dependent apon if syn. or not)
Is this what everyone else runs?
#75
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
oKAY..
I added fuel today, and proceeded to start the engine.. (yes out of the water, and no prop)
I just wanted to see if it would run at low throttle (it was cold today)
The needle setings were 3turns out...way to rich...
I then had to take my son to hockey...
came back 1-hour later...(I knew I should have drained the tank prior to leaving it with some gas in it, untested)
and found gas in the boat.... Dried it out, no damage...
Found out why it leaked ...
There is flashing from the seam of the the tank. This was inplace where the fuel lines connected...
Essentially like leaving a safety wire above and below the plastic leads off the tank into the fuel lines...
Thus the leak....
I melted it off,,,, No leak.....
Been reading about prop balancing...
Do I scrape or grind off the heavy side, or add CA, or some epoxy to the heavy blade???
Ideas??
I used a Topflite Magnetic balacer...the best IMHO...
I added fuel today, and proceeded to start the engine.. (yes out of the water, and no prop)
I just wanted to see if it would run at low throttle (it was cold today)
The needle setings were 3turns out...way to rich...
I then had to take my son to hockey...
came back 1-hour later...(I knew I should have drained the tank prior to leaving it with some gas in it, untested)
and found gas in the boat.... Dried it out, no damage...
Found out why it leaked ...
There is flashing from the seam of the the tank. This was inplace where the fuel lines connected...
Essentially like leaving a safety wire above and below the plastic leads off the tank into the fuel lines...
Thus the leak....
I melted it off,,,, No leak.....
Been reading about prop balancing...
Do I scrape or grind off the heavy side, or add CA, or some epoxy to the heavy blade???
Ideas??
I used a Topflite Magnetic balacer...the best IMHO...