Aquacraft Rio 51z
#76
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Other notice worth mentioning...
The throttle cable:
The routing of it?
goes under the engine...and isn't very good as far as precision goes...
Also... the lack of throttle arm doesn't help either....
Is it do the the movement of the wire? No secured in enough places??
Does HOT glue work,... Or something else??
Also...
Placed sensor safe silicon on the muffler joints and at the engine/muffler junction... NO more leaking!@>..
I didn't realize the muffler would split in 2-parts when 2-bolts are pulled....Not a bad thing...but
good to know, as I was concerned at first when I saw the leaking muffler....
It will work fine....
The throttle cable:
The routing of it?
goes under the engine...and isn't very good as far as precision goes...
Also... the lack of throttle arm doesn't help either....
Is it do the the movement of the wire? No secured in enough places??
Does HOT glue work,... Or something else??
Also...
Placed sensor safe silicon on the muffler joints and at the engine/muffler junction... NO more leaking!@>..
I didn't realize the muffler would split in 2-parts when 2-bolts are pulled....Not a bad thing...but
good to know, as I was concerned at first when I saw the leaking muffler....
It will work fine....
#77
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
I moved the throttle arm a notch back on the spindle so when centered, the arm is next to the kill switch.
Removed throttle spring...works fairly well...
The needles from factory where 3-turns out...
SO rich it wouldn't run...only flooded engine..
I should have went by the manual...
set a factory settings now.. L-1 5/8 and H-1 1/2
starts good now.
Gas safe silicone on gas cap, and tap on top ( stops gas from splashing all over) and a loop of fuel tubing.
Was going to take out today....
I don't have a retreval method.... NO fishing rods at my house ( at my Fathers house)
and no electric boat to set something up....
May have to pick up a electric boat and hook up some PCV pipe on it (fork shaped) and use it a retreval....
I saw a vid on Youtube...He used a electric Rio, and it worked fantastic...
Prop needs balacing (my light sanding didn't touch it)
CA doesn't work )flakes off.
and I am not too comfortable gridning away at the face of the prop...
Any options???
Removed throttle spring...works fairly well...
The needles from factory where 3-turns out...
SO rich it wouldn't run...only flooded engine..
I should have went by the manual...
set a factory settings now.. L-1 5/8 and H-1 1/2
starts good now.
Gas safe silicone on gas cap, and tap on top ( stops gas from splashing all over) and a loop of fuel tubing.
Was going to take out today....
I don't have a retreval method.... NO fishing rods at my house ( at my Fathers house)
and no electric boat to set something up....
May have to pick up a electric boat and hook up some PCV pipe on it (fork shaped) and use it a retreval....
I saw a vid on Youtube...He used a electric Rio, and it worked fantastic...
Prop needs balacing (my light sanding didn't touch it)
CA doesn't work )flakes off.
and I am not too comfortable gridning away at the face of the prop...
Any options???
#78
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Thankyou....
Also...
I saw tower placed RIo51 stickers up on closeout....SO will this boat be Discontinued soon?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LR0284&P=IR
Also...
I saw tower placed RIo51 stickers up on closeout....SO will this boat be Discontinued soon?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LR0284&P=IR
#80
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Update...
about 1-tank of fuel used...
THe cheap mufflers staks broke loose....
Silver soldered it back on, as well as the flex shaft/to prop shaft junction...
They apperently were too cheap at the factory to use solder with silver in it or they were worried the extra heat would
distort the shaft...I believe the latter....As perhaps the silver solder would get ripped off??
I had a mickey mouse throttle bellcrank to throttle throttle arm...
All went well untill the throttle arm (my fault ) came off the carburator!![:-][X(] Luckily it was low throttle setting....
I will give a full review of my findings...
Also...check your alum. cooling outlet on side of boat...Mine had a piece of ALum from the machinging half blocking the water from comming out...
Once removed the issue appeared to be resolved...
Anyone know what the engine temp should be at???
Alll in all...not a bad boat....
about 1-tank of fuel used...
THe cheap mufflers staks broke loose....
Silver soldered it back on, as well as the flex shaft/to prop shaft junction...
They apperently were too cheap at the factory to use solder with silver in it or they were worried the extra heat would
distort the shaft...I believe the latter....As perhaps the silver solder would get ripped off??
I had a mickey mouse throttle bellcrank to throttle throttle arm...
All went well untill the throttle arm (my fault ) came off the carburator!![:-][X(] Luckily it was low throttle setting....
I will give a full review of my findings...
Also...check your alum. cooling outlet on side of boat...Mine had a piece of ALum from the machinging half blocking the water from comming out...
Once removed the issue appeared to be resolved...
Anyone know what the engine temp should be at???
Alll in all...not a bad boat....
#81
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Shaft exit location
I have seen prevy pict another Rio51 and it was in same place....
In the other manuals for mono hulls it is placed DEAD CENTER on transom...
What gives??
Anyone know if this SHOULD be this way?
Or did AQuacraft oops this>???
I have seen prevy pict another Rio51 and it was in same place....
In the other manuals for mono hulls it is placed DEAD CENTER on transom...
What gives??
Anyone know if this SHOULD be this way?
Or did AQuacraft oops this>???
#85
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
I'm also new to the Rio 51Z. First "maiden" runs this past weekend. Prior to the run, I protected all wiring inside of plastic wire protectors and also installed a Killer Bee switch, (and removed the mechanical kill switch) which works with the third channel on my Spektrum DX3S and three-channel marine receiver. I also re-located the battery pack (1800 Mah LiFe pack) from the radio box, to a plywood/fiberglass stand that sits on the port side of the ship, just to the left of the shaft-oiler tank and fuel tank. it's wrapped in a balloon and also sits about 1" above the bottom of the boat, so no water problems with the battery. I used Velcro to attach the receiver to the underside of the radio box, so it will never see any water.
Greased the cable well and wound a pigtail of tubing off the top of the fuel tank cap...still had lots of oil, fuel/water in the interior of the boat. Going to put an actual seal in the fuel tank cap...as it didn't have one. that should help preventing any fuel spillage.
Engine started right away, had absolutely no problem with the ship. Balanced my three-blade prop before the session. but still a little out of balance, but not by much. No vibration or problems detected on the first 4, 10-minute runs. Just a little messy in the bottom of the boat from a little fuel, shaft oiler and water, but nothing too significant.
I'm quite impressed with the speed, handling and overall performance of this ship, considering the engine is no-where near being broken in.
Greased the cable well and wound a pigtail of tubing off the top of the fuel tank cap...still had lots of oil, fuel/water in the interior of the boat. Going to put an actual seal in the fuel tank cap...as it didn't have one. that should help preventing any fuel spillage.
Engine started right away, had absolutely no problem with the ship. Balanced my three-blade prop before the session. but still a little out of balance, but not by much. No vibration or problems detected on the first 4, 10-minute runs. Just a little messy in the bottom of the boat from a little fuel, shaft oiler and water, but nothing too significant.
I'm quite impressed with the speed, handling and overall performance of this ship, considering the engine is no-where near being broken in.
#86
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
My flex-shaft and the steel shaft it fits into, have parted company twice, but I've not lost any parts under water. Have silver soldered it twice, waiting to see if my second attempt was any more successful. If not, going to heat it up again...much more heat. May have to grind up some silver-solder, mix it with Stay-Brite and fill the steel-tube, then apply the heat. Going to add a 5/16 wheel collar to the flex shaft between the engine and the stuffing tube, as well, to make sure I don't lose a shaft. .
#88
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: Planejaw
Sure glad I don't talk to myself!!
Looks like my 2nd silver-solder job on the flex-shaft was successful. Just wait and see how long this one lasts.
Sure glad I don't talk to myself!!
Looks like my 2nd silver-solder job on the flex-shaft was successful. Just wait and see how long this one lasts.
I'm watching...
Warren
#89
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Thanks Warren.
I'm pretty new to boats, but have been building and flying RC aircraft for a long time, mainly large-scale the past few years.
The Rio seems to be a pretty high quality ship, I'm impressed with how well it runs and can handle choppy water. She takes on very little water, even after 3-4 runs, then with a syringe it's easy to suck out the oil/water mix along the bottom.
I'm pretty new to boats, but have been building and flying RC aircraft for a long time, mainly large-scale the past few years.
The Rio seems to be a pretty high quality ship, I'm impressed with how well it runs and can handle choppy water. She takes on very little water, even after 3-4 runs, then with a syringe it's easy to suck out the oil/water mix along the bottom.
#90
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: Planejaw
Thanks Warren.
I'm pretty new to boats, but have been building and flying RC aircraft for a long time, mainly large-scale the past few years.
The Rio seems to be a pretty high quality ship, I'm impressed with how well it runs and can handle choppy water. She takes on very little water, even after 3-4 runs, then with a syringe it's easy to suck out the oil/water mix along the bottom.
Thanks Warren.
I'm pretty new to boats, but have been building and flying RC aircraft for a long time, mainly large-scale the past few years.
The Rio seems to be a pretty high quality ship, I'm impressed with how well it runs and can handle choppy water. She takes on very little water, even after 3-4 runs, then with a syringe it's easy to suck out the oil/water mix along the bottom.
R/C planes and helis for 30 years - Even flew for Hirobo for many. Looking to get a RIO soon for change of pace.
Warren
#91
My Feedback: (53)
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Warren,
I don't think you'd be disapointed, and it sounds like you have a wealth of experience.
I also flew Hirobo, Shuttle and back in the day had a GMP King Cobra. Started back in 1967 with a Goldberg Lil' Jumping Bean control-line and never looked back.
Another Rio runner in our area has had his a little longer than I and just replaced his muffler. Watch for cracks in the housing/tubes. It will be interesting to see, at the end of the season, just how much maintenance and parts it may need. Hopefully few.
I grease the flex-cable prior to the first run of the day and keep the oil tank filled. Gets a little messy in the bottom of the boat, but at least I know everything's well lubricated.
One thing I recently found was a surprising amount of fuel on the top of the fuel tank (and fuel in the bottom of the boat), after a couple of runs. I even added the "pigtail" on top of the fuel cap, which was supposed to prevent any fuel from splashing out of the vent. I then found out that the red fuel-tank cap, when fully screwed on, was taller than the fuel-tank neck (with the threads) and there was absolutely no seal. Fuel was splashing out all over. I found a pop-bottle plastic cap, put a hole in the top for my muffler pressur-tap nipple and put the Tygon "pigtail" back on. It now seals and no more fuel leaks.
Keep me posted if you get a Rio.
I don't think you'd be disapointed, and it sounds like you have a wealth of experience.
I also flew Hirobo, Shuttle and back in the day had a GMP King Cobra. Started back in 1967 with a Goldberg Lil' Jumping Bean control-line and never looked back.
Another Rio runner in our area has had his a little longer than I and just replaced his muffler. Watch for cracks in the housing/tubes. It will be interesting to see, at the end of the season, just how much maintenance and parts it may need. Hopefully few.
I grease the flex-cable prior to the first run of the day and keep the oil tank filled. Gets a little messy in the bottom of the boat, but at least I know everything's well lubricated.
One thing I recently found was a surprising amount of fuel on the top of the fuel tank (and fuel in the bottom of the boat), after a couple of runs. I even added the "pigtail" on top of the fuel cap, which was supposed to prevent any fuel from splashing out of the vent. I then found out that the red fuel-tank cap, when fully screwed on, was taller than the fuel-tank neck (with the threads) and there was absolutely no seal. Fuel was splashing out all over. I found a pop-bottle plastic cap, put a hole in the top for my muffler pressur-tap nipple and put the Tygon "pigtail" back on. It now seals and no more fuel leaks.
Keep me posted if you get a Rio.
#93
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Went out boating this past weekend, but only got in 1 1/2 runs. Here's what happened.
About 5 minutes into my second run for the day, I noticed that the boat began to drift into a left turn, so I added a little right rudder trim, thinking maybe it was the wind. Pretty soon I had almost full right rudder trim in and decided something was wrong, I turned the boat around but before I could get it headed back for the pontoon boat we were on, I noticed that I had no rudder control. I figured that the link must have popped off of the ball, which is attached to the rudder arm. I flipped channel 3 on my radio, my trusty Killer Bee switched shut down the boat and we moved the pontoon boat in for the rescue. As we pulled the pontoon next to the Rio to fish her out of the water, I was right. The link popped off of the ball. Normally, this would not have posed much of a problem...I'd simply put the link back on the ball.
The bigger problem was that the ball was missing. So was the steering arm...so was the rudder hinge pin...so was the rudder!! I didn't mean to pollute the lake with anodized aluminum parts, but they were gone. $58 in parts laying on the bottom of the lake. Too bad aluminum doesn't float!!!
Anyway, even with a finely balanced prop, there's still plenty of vibration that can take its toll. New parts will be in tomorrow, but there's one big thing I'm going to do which should almost guarantee this doesn't happen again. Buy longer bolts!! That's right. The 3 and 4mm X 15mm bolts that the rudder and rudder bracket are attached with, barely have enough thread exposed to go through the plastic lock-nuts. I'm going to replace all of the aluminum/stainless bolts with 20mm bolts that will actually come through the actual plastic locking material in the nuts, then keep an eye on them in between runs. So, even if they do loosen up a little, there will be enough bolt length that will be available to hold the nut on and tighten up to prevent loss of parts. Going to keep a close eye on all bolts after every run from now on. May even dribble a little thin CA on the bolt/nut area to add a little more security.
Also thinking of other mods. May consider an external waterproof servo for the throttle with a solid throttle actuating rod. I'm really not impressed with all of the play in the flex-cable that actuates the throttle arm. I've secured the outer platic tube to help keep it steady, but still more play in that system than I like. I'll keep you posted on any mods.
By the way, bought my son a red Rio 51Z, after his smaller nitro boat really had a difficult time handling all but the most calm waters. Before we ran his Rio the first time, we pulled out the flex-shaft and de-soldered the shaft from the steel prop shaft, then re-soldered it with copious amounts of silver-solder. That should hold it for a while!
Otherwise, these are fantastic boats. In rough water, they really handle well and put the samller boats to shame. Even going through some rough water this weekend, never had a drop in the battery boxes of both ships, even with an antenna tubes sticking out of the top of the radio box and leads coming out of the side of the box for battery leads and LED (for the ignition switch).
About 5 minutes into my second run for the day, I noticed that the boat began to drift into a left turn, so I added a little right rudder trim, thinking maybe it was the wind. Pretty soon I had almost full right rudder trim in and decided something was wrong, I turned the boat around but before I could get it headed back for the pontoon boat we were on, I noticed that I had no rudder control. I figured that the link must have popped off of the ball, which is attached to the rudder arm. I flipped channel 3 on my radio, my trusty Killer Bee switched shut down the boat and we moved the pontoon boat in for the rescue. As we pulled the pontoon next to the Rio to fish her out of the water, I was right. The link popped off of the ball. Normally, this would not have posed much of a problem...I'd simply put the link back on the ball.
The bigger problem was that the ball was missing. So was the steering arm...so was the rudder hinge pin...so was the rudder!! I didn't mean to pollute the lake with anodized aluminum parts, but they were gone. $58 in parts laying on the bottom of the lake. Too bad aluminum doesn't float!!!
Anyway, even with a finely balanced prop, there's still plenty of vibration that can take its toll. New parts will be in tomorrow, but there's one big thing I'm going to do which should almost guarantee this doesn't happen again. Buy longer bolts!! That's right. The 3 and 4mm X 15mm bolts that the rudder and rudder bracket are attached with, barely have enough thread exposed to go through the plastic lock-nuts. I'm going to replace all of the aluminum/stainless bolts with 20mm bolts that will actually come through the actual plastic locking material in the nuts, then keep an eye on them in between runs. So, even if they do loosen up a little, there will be enough bolt length that will be available to hold the nut on and tighten up to prevent loss of parts. Going to keep a close eye on all bolts after every run from now on. May even dribble a little thin CA on the bolt/nut area to add a little more security.
Also thinking of other mods. May consider an external waterproof servo for the throttle with a solid throttle actuating rod. I'm really not impressed with all of the play in the flex-cable that actuates the throttle arm. I've secured the outer platic tube to help keep it steady, but still more play in that system than I like. I'll keep you posted on any mods.
By the way, bought my son a red Rio 51Z, after his smaller nitro boat really had a difficult time handling all but the most calm waters. Before we ran his Rio the first time, we pulled out the flex-shaft and de-soldered the shaft from the steel prop shaft, then re-soldered it with copious amounts of silver-solder. That should hold it for a while!
Otherwise, these are fantastic boats. In rough water, they really handle well and put the samller boats to shame. Even going through some rough water this weekend, never had a drop in the battery boxes of both ships, even with an antenna tubes sticking out of the top of the radio box and leads coming out of the side of the box for battery leads and LED (for the ignition switch).
#94
My Feedback: (53)
RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Bought a red 51Z for my son, and on his third run, the solder joint broke loose (between the flex shaft and the steel shaft). In fact, we had de-soldered the flex shaft before running it once in the lake and did what I would call a good silver-solder job. Guess not.
My yellow 51Z now has new rudder parts, but the engine, near 10 minutes into a run tonight, started to miss, at both high and low throttle. Good water flow from what I could tell, not too lean, no too rich. Couldn't quite figure it out. When I got home, I pulled the original plug. Looked pretty good, gap right around 0.027 in. as required. Replaced the Champion plug with an NGK. Everything else looked fine. I'll have to check it out the next time at the lake. Wonder if she was running a little hot? Have larger OD tubing throughout. We'll see.
My yellow 51Z now has new rudder parts, but the engine, near 10 minutes into a run tonight, started to miss, at both high and low throttle. Good water flow from what I could tell, not too lean, no too rich. Couldn't quite figure it out. When I got home, I pulled the original plug. Looked pretty good, gap right around 0.027 in. as required. Replaced the Champion plug with an NGK. Everything else looked fine. I'll have to check it out the next time at the lake. Wonder if she was running a little hot? Have larger OD tubing throughout. We'll see.
#97
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: Planejaw
Good questiosn Warren.
Using the same fuel, a 24:1 mix. Nothing changed there.
Using a map-gas torch for silver soldering. Wondering if I'm not getting the steel housing/flex cable hot enough for a good bond? What do you think?
Good questiosn Warren.
Using the same fuel, a 24:1 mix. Nothing changed there.
Using a map-gas torch for silver soldering. Wondering if I'm not getting the steel housing/flex cable hot enough for a good bond? What do you think?
Are you setup so you can run your engine out of the water (cooling hose etc.).
That way it's easier to at least get the idle mixture screw set for a good transition, which is important since it affects the mixture even up to the 70ish percent range - Then you could fine tune the high speed mixture on the water.
Not sure why anything would have changed unless you are getting some vibration form the engine mounts loosening causing fuel flow issues?
Keep us posted!
Warren
#98
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
All great ideas. I'll complete a good "pre-flight" run-through before my next visit to the lake, looking for any loose mounts and things like that. I doubt the fuel filters are plugged, but I'll also take a look at those. I've toyed with the idea of finding a small water-pump to provide cooling and make engine adjustments out of the water.
What's odd is that everything had run fine (in terms of the engine runnign smoothly and not "missing") for almost eight-runs before it just started to "miss," mid-way through my last run. Almost wondering if the engine started to run a little on the hot side. May need to run a couple of slow laps to allow the engine to cool down a little before shutting it down.
Thanks for the advice.
What's odd is that everything had run fine (in terms of the engine runnign smoothly and not "missing") for almost eight-runs before it just started to "miss," mid-way through my last run. Almost wondering if the engine started to run a little on the hot side. May need to run a couple of slow laps to allow the engine to cool down a little before shutting it down.
Thanks for the advice.
#99
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RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
ORIGINAL: Planejaw
All great ideas. I'll complete a good ''pre-flight'' run-through before my next visit to the lake, looking for any loose mounts and things like that. I doubt the fuel filters are plugged, but I'll also take a look at those. I've toyed with the idea of finding a small water-pump to provide cooling and make engine adjustments out of the water.
What's odd is that everything had run fine (in terms of the engine runnign smoothly and not ''missing'') for almost eight-runs before it just started to ''miss,'' mid-way through my last run. Almost wondering if the engine started to run a little on the hot side. May need to run a couple of slow laps to allow the engine to cool down a little before shutting it down.
Thanks for the advice.
All great ideas. I'll complete a good ''pre-flight'' run-through before my next visit to the lake, looking for any loose mounts and things like that. I doubt the fuel filters are plugged, but I'll also take a look at those. I've toyed with the idea of finding a small water-pump to provide cooling and make engine adjustments out of the water.
What's odd is that everything had run fine (in terms of the engine runnign smoothly and not ''missing'') for almost eight-runs before it just started to ''miss,'' mid-way through my last run. Almost wondering if the engine started to run a little on the hot side. May need to run a couple of slow laps to allow the engine to cool down a little before shutting it down.
Thanks for the advice.
Warren