3/16" arrow aluminum rivit with a slip on piece of silicone fuel tubing is the ticket for rudder shear pins guys. It it a tooless repair if you do shear a shear pin. The fuel tubing has enough stick on the rivet "nail" to hold it in place. Oh make sure its an all aluminum rivet, rivet and nail, shank whatever you call that part of it. They do make aluminum rivets that have a steel nail,you don't want that. It works so freaking well I cant believe I didn't hear about it on the forums, it really couldn't work any better. It needs to be arrow brand also, the nail part which is what actually is being used as the shear pin is barely smaller than a 3mm bolt. Its like 3/100ths of a mm smaller, you don't have any more play in the rudder than with the bolt. Not sure of the name brand but I had some other rivets that were like 3/16ths x1/4, shorter rivet and the nail part was smaller by a fair amount. I measured them it was like 2.58mm campared to the arrow rivet that was 2.87mm if I remember right and a 3mm bolt was 2.9mm. Incase its was not a difference in name brand and just legnth we are using arrow 3/16 long rivets I believe is what they are called. They have a legnth of about 3/4". Hopefully it saves someone else from a torn up rudder and tiller.
might get some video up, see what the neighbor got. By the way, you know how everybody loves whh boats and most nock the rio. Well I have had 2 whh boats and now a rio. The whh boat stays on the real boat, if I do get it out it can't keep up because of lack of handling and no holeshot ability. The rios hadle 1000x better and when you hit the gas they are gone, no tail diping,bow raising like the whh boats do. My whh handles decent so don't think I just never set it up, I have a youtube video that I saw on the whh thread convinced someone on to buy an enforcer. search for babflyer on youtube to see my videos. I give you its a better boat for a newbie becuase of everything being good from the start and customer support. We even have to put a whh wet pipe on our rios
Mods to date. whh wet pipe, no gasket,just high temp sealant, the orange stuff and some locktite on muffler bolts. Rivet for shear pin. Drill and tap turn fins and nylon 4/40 bolt for a shear pin on them. O-ring on gas cap and a hole drilled in top, run tygon tubing into the hole then into a 2 oz tank with a normal fuel and vent pipe. The hose from the gas tank makes a loop and then goes to the 2oz tank, run a line form the vent on the 2 oz tank and put a loop in it and run it under the bungee on the front side of fuel tank. You will not get water in gas or gas in boat nomatter what happens. It sounds like a lot of line everywhere but its not really and looks ten times better than fuel slosh everywhere and contaminated fuel. Water deflector double sided taped to the hatch in front of the spark plug area air inlet. Serves a couple purposes and I think helps keep that hatch form getting tore up if you do crash by making it slide on the water instead of scooping it up. My deflector is at a 45' angle and touches the top of the hatch. In a crash it pressed down into the opening in the center barely but not at the edges, its a little wider than the opening, did as I wanted it to do, keep most the water out but let air in. Helps when running right behind another boat, thats why we started doing it in the first place.