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  1. #101

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    It's definitely possible that I need to tweak both needles a bit. What's odd is that the engine was missing at both lower throttle settings, as well as full throttle, and it began immediately from great running high and low end, to instantaneous missing at both the high and low power settings. But, these are things to consider the next time I get it out on the water.

    I like your idea Warren, regarding the hose and a barbed end, just running tap water from a hose. I may also design something, with a gallon-jug of water and a small pump with tubing to hook up to the water pickup line after a run, pumping water continuously through the head after shutdown to help cool the engine down in-between runs. I'll let you know how it runs if I can get to the lake tonight to give it another test run. I do have a small syringe that I use to suck the water out of the hull after a few runs...could always manually inject some water into the head every few minutes to help cool it down.

    I know the instructions specify that during break-in, not to go over 8-minutes per run, then let the engine cool off. I'm pretty sure none of my runs exceeded 8 minutes. After about 10 minutes of cooling down, the engine was still a little warm.

    The first couple tankfuls were at a 16:1 oil ratio, after that, I'm now running 24:1. Should I stick tight to the 16:1 ratio?

    Thanks.
    John from Portage, Michigan
    Cub Brotherhood #137, Fleet Brotherhood #6, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #38

  2. #102

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z


    ORIGINAL: Planejaw

    The first couple tankfuls were at a 16:1 oil ratio, after that, I'm now running 24:1. Should I stick tight to the 16:1 ratio?

    Thanks.
    I think 24:1 should be fine - We all run weedeaters at 32:1 and they probably get a heck of a lot hotter.

    How does the plug look?
    Warren
    AMA 19909 - LSF 8170 LVL III

  3. #103

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    The plug looked good when I pulled it. Not fouled and gap just under 0.027 in. Light brass brushin cleaned it up, no carbon to scrape off. Put on a new NGK, just to be sure, gapped around 0.025 in. Too may storms around southwest Michigan last night to get out to the lake. Maybe tonight.

    Re-silver soldered my son's flex shaft last night. Got it good and hot. Used some new rosin core silver solder, plenty of flux, then some silver-solder paste (which contains silver solder) also inside the steel tube. We'll see how well that combination holds up. Wish I had welding equipment. I'd weld the flex-cable at the top of the steel tube, then never have another problem with it.
    John from Portage, Michigan
    Cub Brotherhood #137, Fleet Brotherhood #6, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #38

  4. #104

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    Close plug gap to .017 and continue to run 8 oz oil per gallon NON - ETHANOL fuel. Pump gas with ethanol will not do anything in the engine any good. Ethanol is horrible on the carb parts and is a much stronger solvent than gasoline and it breaks down the oil film on the piston and cylinder.

  5. #105

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z


    ORIGINAL: Planejaw

    The plug looked good when I pulled it. Not fouled and gap just under 0.027 in. Light brass brushin cleaned it up, no carbon to scrape off. Put on a new NGK, just to be sure, gapped around 0.025 in. Too may storms around southwest Michigan last night to get out to the lake. Maybe tonight.

    Re-silver soldered my son's flex shaft last night. Got it good and hot. Used some new rosin core silver solder, plenty of flux, then some silver-solder paste (which contains silver solder) also inside the steel tube. We'll see how well that combination holds up. Wish I had welding equipment. I'd weld the flex-cable at the top of the steel tube, then never have another problem with it.
    Funny - Last night I couldn't get my weedeater to run past mid-range - Same gas/oil and everything...

    Googled it and read a few responses about the exhaust getting clogged - That was it. Amazing what a small passage there is for the exhaust to keep things quiet - Cleaned out the carbon deposits and now she runs like a champ.

    Not sure what muffler is on the Rio but can't hurt to check that as well?
    Warren
    AMA 19909 - LSF 8170 LVL III

  6. #106

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    Well, last night at the lake wasn't so bad. My son's flex-shaft held together, no problems there.

    Cranked up my ship, put her in the water and about 50' from shore, the engine quit...just as I was starting to get her going. Brought it back, adjusted the low-speed needle and the high-speed needle a little (maybe because I was using the new NGK plug?). Back in the water, she ran just fine. Good low and high speed running. No misses, no problems. Went back to 16:1 oil mix...just to be sure.

    We had three good runs of 8-10 minutes each, then a good cool-down in-between. We've designed a cooling system that uses a Sullivan Streamer 6-12 volt fuel pump, gallon of water (or just draw water out of the lake with a filter on the end of the tubing), then hook the other end up to the brass, water pick-up tube. With a "T" fitting, can cool our two boats down at one time. Run a 2-cell lipo and you get a nice cool-down following a run. We can meter down the volume of water being pumped with a small fuel-line clamp, so there should be no fear of shock-cooling the cylinder down. I'll get some pictures this weekend.

    You can really tell the difference between the two and three blade props. Just by estimate, the three blade takes a little longer to get up to speed, but it's at least 25% faster on the the water. Of course, we're not running ours full out, nor are the engines leaned for max performance. Still a lot of break-in to go and we're not going to do any serious racing. Running "formation" with boats is about as tough as flying formation with RC airplanes.

    We were able to get three, 8-10 minute runs on one tank of fuel. When we were done, there was about 1/4 tank left in each boat, so we could have probably run the boats for one more 8-10 minute run, but with little reserve. All in all, a fairly successful evening.
    John from Portage, Michigan
    Cub Brotherhood #137, Fleet Brotherhood #6, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #38

  7. #107

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z


    ORIGINAL: Planejaw

    Well, last night at the lake wasn't so bad. My son's flex-shaft held together, no problems there.

    Cranked up my ship, put her in the water and about 50' from shore, the engine quit...just as I was starting to get her going. Brought it back, adjusted the low-speed needle and the high-speed needle a little (maybe because I was using the new NGK plug?). Back in the water, she ran just fine. Good low and high speed running. No misses, no problems. Went back to 16:1 oil mix...just to be sure.

    We had three good runs of 8-10 minutes each, then a good cool-down in-between. We've designed a cooling system that uses a Sullivan Streamer 6-12 volt fuel pump, gallon of water (or just draw water out of the lake with a filter on the end of the tubing), then hook the other end up to the brass, water pick-up tube. With a ''T'' fitting, can cool our two boats down at one time. Run a 2-cell lipo and you get a nice cool-down following a run. We can meter down the volume of water being pumped with a small fuel-line clamp, so there should be no fear of shock-cooling the cylinder down. I'll get some pictures this weekend.

    You can really tell the difference between the two and three blade props. Just by estimate, the three blade takes a little longer to get up to speed, but it's at least 25% faster on the the water. Of course, we're not running ours full out, nor are the engines leaned for max performance. Still a lot of break-in to go and we're not going to do any serious racing. Running ''formation'' with boats is about as tough as flying formation with RC airplanes.

    We were able to get three, 8-10 minute runs on one tank of fuel. When we were done, there was about 1/4 tank left in each boat, so we could have probably run the boats for one more 8-10 minute run, but with little reserve. All in all, a fairly successful evening.
    Great John!

    Warren
    AMA 19909 - LSF 8170 LVL III

  8. #108

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    That is great. When you get the bugs worked out of the RTR's it really gets you hooked and forget the struggles along the way. It is model boating. If everything was just perfect always you would never get the expirience of understanding what makes it all work and that is what makes any hobby what it is. Learning and improving and lot's of good fun. Most importantly is the wonderful people you meet.

  9. #109

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I just got my new Rio 51z yesterday and I can't wait to hit the lake this weekend.
    Anyone know ofany R/C boat clubs in central Virginia?I will poston how the first run
    of the weekend goes.

  10. #110

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    What 3 blade prop did you run?
    first to own the Mini Slash!
    Amsoil Dealer.. 6XL Revo, Baja 5B, Losi8T, PS295, UL-1, AQ MC, OM29, DF33

  11. #111

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    Right now, running the recommended 3-blade Aquacraft prop. Gives a significant speed increase over the two-blade prop.

    The flex-shaft broke loose twice this past Saturday. If it breaks again, I've got a local motorcycle shop that I'll ask to weld or braze the flex shaft into the steel shaft. Silver-soldering this five-times is getting to be a bit much.

    Got some good acid flux and lots of silver-solder paste and rosin-core silver-solder on top of that. If that doesn't hold, welding will be the only way to go.

    By the way, the cool-down pump worked quite well. Helped to cool the engine down so that it wasn't so heat-soaked after a run. But really haven't had a good run with the shaft coming loose. Did notice into the one good run I had, the engine again started to miss about 8-minutes into the run. Wonder if that's a heat problem?

    I agree, you do get a certain amount of satisfaction when resolving problems and making something better. Keeps you challenged!!
    John from Portage, Michigan
    Cub Brotherhood #137, Fleet Brotherhood #6, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #38

  12. #112

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z


    ORIGINAL: Planejaw

    Right now, running the recommended 3-blade Aquacraft prop. Gives a significant speed increase over the two-blade prop.

    The flex-shaft broke loose twice this past Saturday. If it breaks again, I've got a local motorcycle shop that I'll ask to weld or braze the flex shaft into the steel shaft. Silver-soldering this five-times is getting to be a bit much.

    Got some good acid flux and lots of silver-solder paste and rosin-core silver-solder on top of that. If that doesn't hold, welding will be the only way to go.

    By the way, the cool-down pump worked quite well. Helped to cool the engine down so that it wasn't so heat-soaked after a run. But really haven't had a good run with the shaft coming loose. Did notice into the one good run I had, the engine again started to miss about 8-minutes into the run. Wonder if that's a heat problem?

    I agree, you do get a certain amount of satisfaction when resolving problems and making something better. Keeps you challenged!!
    John,
    It might just be best to get a new quality shaft setup and eliminate the driveline issue entirely once and for all. If you take it to someone it should be only heated enough to silver braze it in place like the rod for A/C copper lines. Any more heat and the flex will loose it's temper and quickly fail.

  13. #113

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    Good idea. Thanks. Need to do something on a more "permanent" fix basis.
    John from Portage, Michigan
    Cub Brotherhood #137, Fleet Brotherhood #6, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #38

  14. #114
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I don't own a rio 51z, I have a whh enforcer team pro, vid of it can be watched by searching youtube for the user babflyer. My buddies rio needed the drive shaft re soldered as it broke right off the bat, then the muffler broke, got a new one and it broke very quickly also. The boat did run enough to show some promise though. My team pro has a wet pipe and doesn't even get hot, just warm. Buddy ordered a warehouse hobbies tuned wet pipe and installed in his rio. The rio needed more fuel to even run, lots more. He has some 3 blade prop on it, not a grim racer one, I think its an abc hobby prop. The boat does a solid 45 mph acoording to gps and is so in control its not funny. My m5 team pro has more top end but it doesn't handle well enough to use it very often. I am so close to pulling the trigger on one of these and droping my m5 motor in it. Even with just the pipe it sounds as though a good bit more speed could be had on a stock rio with only a whh wet pipe because the boat is instantly at top speed. I see in race vids and my boat does this to were it takes a bit to hit full speed. Honestly I think 50 mph and very controlable is obtainable with only a pipe and the right prop.
    My enforcer is fun, handles good, looks great, doesn't leak fuel like the rio, better radio box. Lots of nice stuff about my team pro. I had a magnum 57 and sold it to this guys dad and he put a quick draw he had in it. I wanted a boat that wasn't boring to run unless the wind chop was pretty good. I got that with the smaller team pro. Very fun to drive, keeps you on your toes. runs in the low to mid 40's. Problem is that when we try and run my team pro with the rio the handling diffrences show up big time. The rio kills my boat in the handling department. I wound up torpedoieng my team pro trying to keep up.
    Anyway I know the whh boats are popular and the original rio didn't get great reviews. the 51z seems to have drive shaft and muffler issues but man it seems like a good hull. Very good. I really want to see what my m5 with a pipe would do
    We run on the resivoir beside the real boat. sometimes we just sit and run circles but normally its a lap around the resivoir.

  15. #115
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I see a lot of talk about oil and ratios in this thread also. whh recomends amsoil saber at 32-1. My m5 has quite a bit of time on it with no issues stock plug, easy starts plenty of power. I have to recomend that oil and ratio. Amsoil saber is a 100-1 oil but whh says to run it at 32-1 so I have and have been happy with that for years.
    My above post wasn't meant rag on whh at all, I like about everything about my whh boats better that the rio. The rio is just faster on less horsepower and handles way better so if you want to play race your buddies that have whh boats the rio with a pipe will dust them. Don't know how well the light hull will hold up. Cant buy a replacement hull[&o]

  16. #116

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I also have run 4-5oz per gallon of Amsoil synthetic oil "saber" an Zero problems on stock and modded Zenoah's! Ill be running the same in my new Super Gator 23cc EZ-1 air-cooled.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/desjardinsj

  17. #117
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I recieved my rio on Thursday from Tower Hobbies. I went through it checking the stuff that should be loctited was, balanced stock prop, generally went over the boat. From one of my buddies boats I knew some of what to look for along from reading on here. Pulled the drive shaft out and walked it over to the neighbors and had it resoldered, he learned from redoing his brothers so he has practice. Got my whh wet pipe friday and finished up prepareing the boat.
    Went out Friday evening for some break in, boat ran as it should, no problems.
    Went out Saturday mornining and we all were going to try running around a couple bouyes but two other boats were unreliable and the other rio and I crashed and that ended the other rio's day so we got very little running in on Saturday but it wasn't the rios fault. When the other rio ran over my rio the prop sliced the back of my hull, just ca'ed it and put some paint on it. His boat transfered the energy up the drive shaft to the motor and then the rubber mounts, ripped the steele insert out of the mount on two of them. Wood rails stayed glued fine, put a ding in his rudder, shear bolt broke as it should so it could flip up. His boat was worse for the wear than mine for sure, it launched his boat high and far!
    I didn't take my whh enforcer that day. No room as we rc boat from the real boat.
    The rio gets bad reviews but we have been more than happy, I still like the enforcer team pro, had a magnum 57 for a couple years and now the rio as far as gassers. The rio has lots to like, the folks that don't check things and throw them in the water will have issues but thats the case with any boat really. Its a shame Aquacraft doesn't step up and put a good soldered prop shaft in the boat box and the stock muffler needs to go. This would give the boat great reviews by almost everyone I think and we all would be happier. I never ran the stock radio. I could tell form the buddies rio that the radio's range wasn't up to snuff, he replaced with a specktrum marine reciever, the cheaper of the two and it worked great so I put one in before the boat saw water.
    I wouldn't mind seeing if I can bind two recievers at once. If it would work I would rebind the marine reciever, let it drive the boat but use a reciever with telemetry and get some rpm data and temp data right on my radio's screen.
    Can't wait to run again. Saturday was just one of them days and in no time my rio was the only boat out of 4 running.


  18. #118

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    anyone here have a stock muffler that they could let go cheap mine has went through 6 factory replaced mufflers so far with the longest run @1tank before cracking off a stack or both and flooding the inside of the hull with carbon monoxide cutting the engine to about 500rpms at full throttle and the last one didnt even seal up around the case halves so it had to be ran with no hatch or it would not run at all other then the exhaust the only other issue has been one poorly made isolation mount, once I get the exhaust sorted out I will feel alot better about my 800 boat that needed a new radio before ever being due to the stock only going to about 3/4 throttle and not returning to idle completely without some reverse. But hey aleast my engine hasnt fallen out with the rails yet gotta look on the bright side right!

  19. #119
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    I have to recomend the warehouse hobies wet pipe. More power and no headache. super easy to install. about a hundred bucks but you will enjoy the boat then.

  20. #120

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    are you sure it fits and how much cutting/drilling is going to have to be done , I really liked the look of it coming out the top and I dont really run that fast(3 blade prop engine tuned and hull tuned) because I am always in rough water in the chesapeake bay I love the boat but the exhaust has really been a headache!

  21. #121
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    one hole in the transom. if you get some silicone tubing, aerotrend I believe is what I had, and put it on the exit end of the pipe that will let the pipe mount at its stock lenght which gives a few more rpms and also seals the hole if you make it a tight fit. you could experiment with the fit on a scrap piece of wood or plastic to figure out the hole size. The actuall aluminum comes about a quarter inch short of making it to the transom if you use the stock recomended gap between header and pipe form whh. If you wish you can make that gap larger and barely put the end of the aluminum pipe through the transom and use silicone caulk to seal it, same as how all whh boats are done with the wet pipe. I recomend silicone tubing though. Ask if they have any tubing at whh that fits the tail end so it can extend and I bet they can set you up.

  22. #122

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    thanks for the advice thats going to be the route I take at this point and then I can just glass the stock exhaust hole in the lid

  23. #123
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    looks like tower thinks it should raise the price on the rio[&o].
    My buddy and I each sheared our rudder shear pins once. My buddis boat didn't shear the shear bolt the second time, it broke the stearing bracket. So, after quite a bit of head scratching searching and testing here is what I have found out. Mcmaster Carr has 3mm nylon bolts, I ordered a box of 100. I turned down a 6/32 nylon bolt to 3mm. I now took the bolt cutting part of a pair of wire cutting, crimping pliers and tested shear strenth of various bolts. From what I can feel with my hand the order of strenght was 3mm nylon, 6/32 nylon, 2/56 rod, 4/40 bolt, 3mm bolt. I then tested a 3/16 arrow long aluminum rivet. The nail part of the rivit is 2.87mm, 3mm screw is only 2.9 so they are basically the same size. The aluminum rivet seems to be close to the 2/56 rod as far as shear strength. I am going to test the aluminum rivet as a shear bolt.
    As far as threading the aluminum rivet I bought a 3mm die but it seems to bebof sub par quality. 3mm bolts wont go in and after cutting threads on anything a 3mm nut harldly catches any of the threads. This requires some effort and time with nothing working out perfectly or to what I consider to be of good workability in the field (at the pond). With some talking with buddy we have come to the conclusing that the best way of retaining the rivet shear pin might be to just slip a piece of silicone fuel tubing over the end of it. this might not be the prettiest as there would be 3/4" of material sticking out of both sides, one side would be the uncrushed rivet, the other would be 3/4" of the "nail" part of the rivet with fuel tubing over it. The plus of this system would be that it would require no tools, instalation of a new shear pin would be extemely simple and fast.
    I guess I should say that were not sure the nylon 3mm will be strong enough so thats why we have continued to search for a better alternative that can shear just a bit easier than the stock bolts, We also never new or paid attention to the material the stock shear bolt was made of. Maybe they were aluminum all along? just assumed they were stainless.

  24. #124

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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    Rio 51 Loose Setting Run 20110731. The out of frame shots you will not see is the Rio 51 riding the spray from our boat or it riding our wake at speed. The run is in 3 parts which started at the Rice Lake Sand Bar and ended a few miles on the way back to our resort with a blow-over, the weed run and docking run.The boat is powered by a 28.5 Dominator Head kit from Performance Unlimited with a Stuffed Crank and Voodoo XX Tater prop to push it. I have raised the stinger higher than what I would normally run at with other people.You will see on the video that the boat at times would take flight when it rides over swells and rough water. No fast runs just getting the feel at half throttle in open water but I can easily leave the boat we are riding on behind.

    The Rio sports a new paint, stuffing tube, custom teflon oiling block, WHH T-bar. Fly Sky 2.4 G Radio system from RC World Wide. The throttle is on the receiver's built in fail safe while the rudder is on a Venom failsafe. Stock stinger with Voodoo XX Tater prop, powered by a Performance Unlimited 28.5 Dominator head kit with a Stuffed Crank, Arrow Shark pipe, header, no-leak exhaust jacket, and turn fin, WHH clutch, custom no-leak no-fail Bernouli Auto Bailer, custom through-hull water pick-up, and Pro Boat water pump.
    Take 1 - Rice Lake Sand Bar Blow-over Run
    Take 2 - Rice Lake Sea Weed Run
    Take 3 - Rice Lake Run & Dock
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUuY1WCNzGE
    I am on the 13th year of my 2nd childhood and I REFUSE TO GROW-UP!

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  25. #125
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    RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z

    3/16" arrow aluminum rivit with a slip on piece of silicone fuel tubing is the ticket for rudder shear pins guys. It it a tooless repair if you do shear a shear pin. The fuel tubing has enough stick on the rivet "nail" to hold it in place. Oh make sure its an all aluminum rivet, rivet and nail, shank whatever you call that part of it. They do make aluminum rivets that have a steel nail,you don't want that. It works so freaking well I cant believe I didn't hear about it on the forums, it really couldn't work any better. It needs to be arrow brand also, the nail part which is what actually is being used as the shear pin is barely smaller than a 3mm bolt. Its like 3/100ths of a mm smaller, you don't have any more play in the rudder than with the bolt. Not sure of the name brand but I had some other rivets that were like 3/16ths x1/4, shorter rivet and the nail part was smaller by a fair amount. I measured them it was like 2.58mm campared to the arrow rivet that was 2.87mm if I remember right and a 3mm bolt was 2.9mm. Incase its was not a difference in name brand and just legnth we are using arrow 3/16 long rivets I believe is what they are called. They have a legnth of about 3/4". Hopefully it saves someone else from a torn up rudder and tiller.

    might get some video up, see what the neighbor got. By the way, you know how everybody loves whh boats and most nock the rio. Well I have had 2 whh boats and now a rio. The whh boat stays on the real boat, if I do get it out it can't keep up because of lack of handling and no holeshot ability. The rios hadle 1000x better and when you hit the gas they are gone, no tail diping,bow raising like the whh boats do. My whh handles decent so don't think I just never set it up, I have a youtube video that I saw on the whh thread convinced someone on to buy an enforcer. search for babflyer on youtube to see my videos. I give you its a better boat for a newbie becuase of everything being good from the start and customer support. We even have to put a whh wet pipe on our rios

    Mods to date. whh wet pipe, no gasket,just high temp sealant, the orange stuff and some locktite on muffler bolts. Rivet for shear pin. Drill and tap turn fins and nylon 4/40 bolt for a shear pin on them. O-ring on gas cap and a hole drilled in top, run tygon tubing into the hole then into a 2 oz tank with a normal fuel and vent pipe. The hose from the gas tank makes a loop and then goes to the 2oz tank, run a line form the vent on the 2 oz tank and put a loop in it and run it under the bungee on the front side of fuel tank. You will not get water in gas or gas in boat nomatter what happens. It sounds like a lot of line everywhere but its not really and looks ten times better than fuel slosh everywhere and contaminated fuel. Water deflector double sided taped to the hatch in front of the spark plug area air inlet. Serves a couple purposes and I think helps keep that hatch form getting tore up if you do crash by making it slide on the water instead of scooping it up. My deflector is at a 45' angle and touches the top of the hatch. In a crash it pressed down into the opening in the center barely but not at the edges, its a little wider than the opening, did as I wanted it to do, keep most the water out but let air in. Helps when running right behind another boat, thats why we started doing it in the first place.


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