Dreamin Hemi

Soon as you prime it by sticking your finger over the carb and pull a few times, gas/oil mix will coat the cylinder and make it a little smoother. You will notice it progressively getting a "little" smoother as it gets broken in.

ahlenius

Actually the reason the motor got ripped out of the hull was inferior fiber glassing and the fact that the Zenoha is really stiff and hard to pull is this normal?...what is the remedy?

Hardtime

The glass work only takes less than 1/2 hour.
Cost for repair kit was under $10 and I have alot left over.
Humm the Segad could use that up.
I stripped all the hardware & pulled the motor.
I then added three layers glass inside and out of the rails.
Mixed up some epoxy and sealed the entire inside of the hull.
Factory glass looked dry . The work is easy but messy wear gloves.
Instructions were on the box.
Reassemble and there ya go.
I've had many many "RTR"s and none were.
I always strip them down and rebuild.

slipstick

I bought a 1/4" shaft collar - which is too small for the stock Rio drive shaft; does anyone know the proper size?

slipstick

...found that (cheesy) drain plug on lower corner of the transom; the "pull tab" to remove for use ripped out with the first gentle tug,,,is it OK to fill that hole with a hot-glue gun?...or is some other remedy recommended?

Thanks

Hardtime

I'll mix some epoxy & mico ballons and fill latter.
For now just used "shoe-goo" and sealed it up.
It can be removed later.

slipstick

Newbie Update - and new question.... (HELPPLEASE!)

So - I'm now floating the boat in the hot tub at my cottage - before even getting to engine issues - and starting - I'm trying to fix all the d___ leaks at the transom - all the 4 mm and 5 mm bolts along the metal plates affixing the trim tabs and fixed rudders...

Is this normal ( slow drips), and OK? If not..

What is the best approach here guys...?

I've been slowly tightening all these bolts with my wonderful new Du Bro hex drivers, but...still slow leaks ( there do not appear to be leaks around the strut housing...)

I've heard a few bits of advise...."Locktite"- (I have purchased the Locktite expoxy), someone else has suggested just applying some silicone over the nuts inside the transom...

What about taking my hot glue gun to them?( That might be messy).

Any and all advise is appreciated!!

Thanks

Tim

Hardtime

When I reassembled the boat I put a dab of "shoe-goo" on eash bolt hole.
Sealed nice. Like it better than silicon as it is easyer toremove.

Hardtime

Yep ya got the right Collar, but because of the squared end it will not fit.So get the split collar, it's offered on most boat sites
Or your LHS may stock them.

tripoli

My Feedback: (1)

Tim,

Best thing to do for the leaks is to remove the turn fins (fixed rudders) and the trim tabs. Dab a little Permatex RTV silicone gasket maker into each hole (inside) in the transom and re install the trim tabs and turn fins before the silicone sets up. Wipe of any excess. It is a little messy but has been a permanant, no leak fix for mine. Use thread locker on all the nuts/bolts (I used Permatex threadlocker blue gell). Purchased both from a local auto parts store.

As far as the 1/4" collar goes.... it should work. It is the exact same collar I have and mine works fine. Make sure that the set screw is not showing on the inside of the collar and try it again. Once on tighten the set screw on one of the flat sides of the drive shaft about 1/8" from the end of the shaft tube.

Trip

slipstick

All plates and bolts from trim tabs and rudders removed, and sealed; NOleaking (!!) stuffed pieces of pool noodles into the bow, and finally fired up the Zenoah (running water from hose thru tubes to intake straw), on the deck - it started on thefirst pull!

It runs great with needles on factory settings - will run on the lake tonight.

I am so glad I kept this boat - and frankly never would have without RC Universe.

You guys are great!

(I am however wondering where Grimracer is...any sightings?)

Thanks

Question - how often do you guys sharpen your prop (s)?...after each run?

slipstick

Bummer - put the boat in the lake with friends and family gathered, finally going to lauch forfirst run....checked everything- engine started, - but NO PROP ACTION - turns out the flex-cable was spinning - independent of the strut housing/stuffing tube ( I may have the wrong name for parts here...), defective drive train@#@@*!! I gather..back to the hobby shop with whole assembly...

After weeks of preparation, this is a royal real Pi__er - anyone else have this problem?Four us tried to diagnose...could only conclude that where the flex cable reaches the rear assembly ( approx. 4" black plastic outer shaft, just ahead of prop unit) it simply spins...

I've decided not attempt to rip apart strut housing...hopefully Aquacraft will stand behind their defective product.

Anyone else have this problem?

Dreamin Hemi

Did you somehow break the drive dog? Install it backwards? How about you send some close up pictures of your strut assembly.

slipstick

Thanks - not certain what the "drive dog" is (is that the "nut" that meets the prop, with 2 small 3/32" hex nuts in it..?), ...but do not believe anything broke, or was improperly installed; after I visit my LHS ( the Aquacraft Dealer where the boat was purchased), I'll provide an update and hopefully some photography...the problem is that the flex cable just spins inside the 4" black plastic "sheath" which the flex cable meets toward the stern, hence when the flex cable is spinning the prop is not...

Hardtime

Darn sounds like the stinger may have been loose and caused the cable to snap at the weld.
Hang in there.

slipstick

Yes - that souds close - can someone define "stinger" and "drive dog" ( or is there is a glossery somewhere on line?)

res3567

Here you go.....stinger is the strut assembly....were the flexshaft exits the back of the boat and attaches to the prop.
Check it:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str

The drive dog is like apronged locknut to spin the prop. It is held in place on the flexshaftby a grub screw.
Check it:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=oct-oc4d

ahlenius

Ok i started this thread so here is the update on my Rio 51Z hahahahhahh! ughhh . Set the boat in my pool after putting hot glue in the drain plug hole ..No leaks YEA!!! right? WRONG! fired up the engine used a garden hose to cool ran great! OK fresh batteries etc. fill the fuel tank with freshly mixed fuel all set for the lake tomorrow afternoon.....my boy and i cant wait meander about the next morning after lunch ready to leave Whats that Smell GAS!!! i opened the boat and the entire fuel tank had drained into the hull. Good thing i don't have a natural gas water heater in my garage! Boy good thing i put hot glue in that drain hole. Anyway pulled of the fuel tank and it looked like the tank might be leaking so removed the fuel lines and pressure checked it was OK I put the lines back on and used new zip ties and filled it with fuel to sit over night outside this time stay tuned for more! Sorry to hear about the shaft problems where is GRIM.....Hiding that's where.

Hardtime

Next time your at the hobby shop p/u some fuel line clips.
Ohh ya also take a small drill bit and clean out the outlets on the tank.
Make sure to clean out the shavings from the inside too or you may
plug up your fuel filter.

kochj

old thread but the reason the tank leaks is due to the molding on the outside of the tank... this then causes the rib (flashing or whatever) have the fuel line not sealup....
clean it up and no more leaks...

rctrailer1991

Hello, I am about to get one boat like yours the only problem you had , was with the engine mounts right. does the engine run fine?

fisher3208

I got a free hull and it had no motor or anything else excepy the stinger drive and turn fins and half the rudder parts. The stringers where not there ,they where compleatly gone.but I liked the boat so much I replaced the stringers with wood strips from lowes and epoxyed them in and fiberglassed them too. I also put supports on the outside of the strengers for extra strenth. I put a new Zenoah g 26 pump in it and replaced the tank ,and servos and everythinh else and I think its ready to run but havent started it up yet. I know the stringers won't break and hope there is nothing wrong with the drive train.-that was still in the boat...I checked for leaks and don't have any..It is packed with fome everyplace I could put it so it won't sink. I will try it out next spring...need a hose adapter to run it for tests hope to find one someplace..

fisher3208

rio51z....You can get a prop on Tower hobbies web site for about $40.00 you may need to polish it and balance it too. Its from Grim Racer.

rcguy1411

A cheap hose adaptor can be found at a dollar store look for a water balloon kit you can even control water pressure to control engine temps

Steve Seebold 100

I feel sorry for the guys who get sucked into these cheap ready to run crap boats. For the same money, you can buy an Insane or a RC Boatworks Y6 and all the running gear and radio. Sure, you gotta put those together, but you'll learn a lot by doing that.

I know Jeff from Insane boats builds a fine boat and has a great set up sheet. If you follow his instructions, you'll have a 50+ MPH boat, even with a stock engine. The Y6 affords the same advantages. I understand the Y6's. I have 4 of them. I have one with a Ron Buck modifies Zenoah, one with a Quickdraw HT25, one with a Quickdraw Pioneer 25.4 and one with a Quickdraw Pioneer 30.5. The 30.5 boat runs close to 80 MPH in heat race trim. It's really torquie and hard to get rolling, but once I get in the throttle, I have to stay in it till the end of the heat.