ahlenius

Ok awhile ago i made a post about the 51Z and the problems i had regarding inadequate fiberglass holding the engine assembly together-pull the starter cord and the entire assembly ripped out of the boat. Returned it to hobby shop they sent it off to be fixed by the company. Well it wasn't fixed they elected to send me a new one instead. Great Right? Nope the new one was WORSE!!! In fact I didn't even take it out of the box and checked the fiberglass work and the whole engine mount assembly was completely loose. COME ON!!! i paid almost $900 for this thing a month and a half ago. IM DONE!!!! my local hobby shop has been gracious but i will not get another one of these boats period!I understand they have had manufacturing problems and are getting them corrected but don't send out old sub-par product to an already upset customer SHAME ON YOU AQUA CRAFT.

team esp

That is really bad. I can't believe after your problem somebody wouldn't make sure the next was perfect. I'd refuse it from the hobby store and demand my money back. The best luck I had with gas RTR's from major companies (besides WHH), is Venom and their KOS.

Dump that Rio back at the hobby shop and shoot for another manufacturer.

slipstick

Yikes!! I'm the newbie who has yet to wet my Rio 51z.Seems like 1/2 ofthose onRC Universe who have aquired this boat have BIG problems, not the cosmetic issues folks often bit__ about on hobby forums. I'm beginning to think the best thing to do is return my birthdaygift to the LHS before giving it first fuel.

I admit - I'm brand new to RC boats - but it seems that any product with this frequency of shippedbuild defects has serious QC problems (?), or is this just how things arein the world of RC gas boats? I for sure wil at least wait before putting this Rio into Lake Michigan....

Hopefully Grimracer is close by and will find a remedy for you and some assurance for the rest of us who -aremore and more - feeling like we've invested in an accident waiting to happen.

Hardtime

Man that's too bad. I knew about the issue so bought a $6 fiberglass repair kit ahead of time.
Sure enough I checked it out in store and there wasn't much holding the rails on 4 sure.
Bought it anyway, was easy to reglass.
Whats realy scary is in all the shops I've been inthey all store the boat on end
No problems now but 1 exhaust bolt sheared off ?
Realy like the boat all in all. Solid now 2X barrel rolls and held together
Heck I have A Venom Segad so this boat is a cake walk lol

TopSecretBoats

That really stinks! But you must keep one thing in mind (you get what you pay for) The real nice, dependable and fast boats will run $1200.00 to $1600.00. And that might sound like allot but in the long run it will probably be cheaper and guaranteed more fun. I hope you can get your $$$ back or your Problems solved.

slipstick

Bill - I have no reason to doubt your observation that good ( gas) big boats range from $1,200 - $1,400...however it still seems odd that someone new to the hobby ( like me) shells out $800 for a starter boat -  many copies of which which are apparently junk...

TopSecretBoats

It makes me sad that the newbies get sucked in to buying the $700.00-$900.00 and then getting a bad taste of the boating hobby because of inferior hulls ,hardware and motors. You will not believe the calls and emails we get from the people trying to fix the problems with these kinds of beginner boats. They end up putting even more $$$ into them and when it is finally fixed up they still are not happy and the boat ends up on the shelf or up for sale for a fraction of what they have into it ( to the next unfortunate Beginner) and with the bad taste of the boating hobby the tend to find another hobby. If you get a good boat you will no doubt have a ball and you will probably end up with a fleet before you know it. A good boat will get you addicted . LOL
My advice to a beginner is If the boat looks nice and is much cheaper the the others do not get sucked in. (Looks can be deceiving) Try to find an experienced boater and believe what they say because the probably started out the same way (dishing out hard CASH for junk ) The Google search is also a great way to find out some info on companies and items on the market. Just try to under stand what your buying and whom your buying from. (there are allot of repital boat builders out there and the fairest ones should only be $1200.00- $1600.00 .) If you pay more then that you again may be getting taken advantage of.

slipstick

Expert help needed please.

Newbie here wondering ifany "old hands" trolling here mightguide me any warning signs to look for in/on my new ( and as yet un-tested)Rio 51Z. So far I've only:

- installed batteries to ensure all remote functions work properly (they do)
- mixed fuel per directions for break-in, but have not yet filled the tank.
- oriented myself to the boat and motor using this forum, and other internet sources.

I am currently sharpening and tuning my prop ( having just received my balancer), and will haveprop and tools in hand tomorrow while spend 3 hours on ferry crossing Lake Michigan.I'mfollowing a great prop tuning thread I found here on RCU a few days ago. I don't quite yet have the fortitude or moxy to proceed with some of the suggested upgrades ( new exhaust, servo, etc.)...saving that a bit later in the learning curve.

Being new to RC boating ( or RC anything for that matter), I would not likely know where to check for problems like compromised fiber-glass...or engine mounts, etc.... are there things I could/should check visually before running....if so, what might those be?


Tim

Nosedragger

It goes beyond that Bill, these guys drag this junk to the pond and want others to help them. Thats reasonable, but that only dumps the problems on guys who are at the pond to run their stuff instead of fixing the mistakes made by the RTR factory. So instead of just aggravating the customer they now have 2 or more people unhappy with AQ and PB.

tripoli

My Feedback: (1)

Slip stick,
I do not have the new 51 Z but I do have the original RIO 51. Same boat with a new engine and canister exhaust which puts you ahead of the original RIO owners who had to dump the stock Fuji and exhaust for a quality engine and pipe. Mine now has a CY/Sikk 26cc with a steel tuned pipe and header.
As far as what to check/fix before you have issues:
1) Reinforce the stringers, they will pull away from the hull if you dont!
2) Check all running gear and connection points for all the hardware on the transom. Set the boat in water to check for leaks at the transom. Seal all leaks and tighten all bolts. Use loctite. Check ALL other bolts and make sure they are tight.
3) Dump the cable oiler, just makes a mess in the hull. Not needed if you grease the flex cable before every day of running.
4) Get a shaft saver and install it. Many RIO owners have had stock strut failures and have lost the flex and the prop. Limit your losses!!!
5) The cap for the fuel tank will leak at the vent hole. A small piece of fuel line coiled and connected to the cap with a small vacuum fitting will limit this.
6) The new RIO uses all the same running hardware as the original. READ the "RIO 51 anyone" thread to find out what problems others have had with the running hardware. The stinger seems to have been a problem for many owners but I have had no issues so far.
7) Put all electronics in ballons. The radio box is water resistent, not water proof. Limit your losses!!!
8) Add flotation to the hull. Pool noodles work very well.
9) Replace all water cooling lines with larger I.D. tubing. Stock tubing restricts water flow.
10) Install in-line fuel filter.

This should get you started. I did say started. I have had my RIO for about a year and a half now. The only "original" parts still in use today are the hull, running hardware, and radio box. Have replaced everything else including the radio, receiver, and servos. Also added alot of optional equipment.

TRIP

slipstick

Wow - thanksfor that thorough run down on the "basics" - Idon't think my wife and kids had any idea I'd need a new degree in marinemechanics to supporttheir birthday gift forme.

I have no doubt thatwhat you've providedare valid necessary steps - having said that, itseems like a S__-load of work to do on an "RTR" product ( of any kind). My 21' Scarab (with it's old V-8 I/O)ski-boat required less work.

The more I read - the more I'm leaning toward a plan ofreturning the Rio to the dealer (before pouring any fluids into it) - and putting that money to stand up surf board; I'm thinking RC world is notfor me...

If I change course - I'll be back asking more stupid questions ( like - "What is a stringer?", and "What is a prop saver?"...).

I am just glad I found this Forum BEFORE doing something stupid - like thinking this boat was actually "RTR" and putting it on the water as such.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my NEWBIEposts and questions. RC Universe is a great place - I've enjoyed my brief introduction, if only to have avoided a brush with disaster!

tropheus29

Doesn't even look like their reps poked their heads out to say "Hi" here. Interesting. Must be on the phone with China addressing Quality Control (read- Keep costs down while the Chinese poke us). Nice job on the new Rio . Changed my opinion of Aquacraft with this single thread. I recall the first posting of yours addressing the problem. You seemed to handle it well but this is disgraceful. $900 HARD EARNED RECESSION DOLLARS.

Businesses sure need loyalty right now.

tripoli

My Feedback: (1)

Slipstick,
I didn't mean to discourage you from the hobby, just giving some info to help you protect your investment. I would be glad to help with any questions you have about what I listed. Most are inexpensive and quick fixes.
Most of the "basics" I listed should be done on any new "RTR" boat. Better safe than sorry. Don't want you to have a major failure due to someone working the assembly line failing to tighten a few cap screws.
There is a learning curve involved in any new hobby but that is what is so great about RCU. You can ask questions and get answers from those who have already been where you are. The time you take to prepare your boat on the bench will save you time in the long run and alot of aggrivation at the pond. The pond is where you see the results as your boat flys across the water with no issues
I also should have explained a few terms:
Stringers are the two wooden supports that your motor is mounted to.
A shaft saver is actually a dura collar from Du-Bro. It installs on the flex drive cable between the motor and the tube the cable is run through and prevents the cable and prop from being "lost" if the drive strut fails. http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...=244/101.0.1.1

Like I said, if you have questions just ask.

TRIP

slipstick

Thanks Trip - any good online resources for...

- glassing the stringers ( assuming that is the ideal means on re-enforcing the them to the hull)?
- rigging the solution to the fuel tank you recommend ?
- shaft saver ( perhaps that is contained in the link you already provided - I'll check)?

After reconsidering what I've got invested AFTER the boat ( 3-blade prop./balancer/life time supply of Grimracer lubricating oil, etc.), I might as well go ahead and try to make this boat work...but WITHOUT on-water surprises during maiden voyage....

Tim

slipstick

The Dura Collar seems straight forward enough; are there any good resources on RCU for fiber glassing for newbies? Also, how important is the replacement of the water (coolant) lines?What is best source for replacement lines?

Thanks -

BTW - I've decided to keep the boat!

Dreamin Hemi

This may help you some. It's a page of my website where I show details of how to glass an entire hull as well as set and glass in stringers.

firststatecomposites.com/howitsdone_.html

slipstick

Thanks -

Question: Is it is a generally accepted premise thata new Rio 51Z should have it's stringers (rails?), reglassed? If so, it suggested that I remove them ( er the whole motor, etc.) and start over?That seems like a somewhat risky proposition for someone who's never worked with glass...

Would like to hear from any owners on this...glass now, or wait for the need to arise?I am not sure what to look for (visually) to determine if boat as delivered ( and as yet untested) has problems with the stringers and/or bad glass...

If this were a case of re-enforcing what is there - without removing motor and rails - that would seem to be a lower risk project...

Hope this makes sense - and hope some folks offer opinions/experience...

Thanks much in advance.


Tim

ahlenius

I have Glassed the stringers invested in a hand held electric starter and i am ready to go to the lake. im gonna fill up the cable oiler but dont quite understand your fix for the fuel tank vent. oh well. keep tuned cause im gonna post after i run it i did install a fail safe after what happened to my prather fun cruiser( i still think its on its way to china)ill put the pool noodle in the nose and see what happens...........Stay tuned oh by the way the new boat was missing the transom drain plug it would of sank ....great Quality control Aqua Craft!!!! once again

slipstick

Transom drain plug? My Rio 51z does not have one...(?)

Hardtime

Mine did....untill it fell out.
Now the hole has been sealed.
Never had a drain plug on any boat b4 why start now.
If they missed it on yours ,that's a good thing

slipstick

Wow that's a lot of "variation within the species"...

lapistola28

I replaced mine with a self bailer .

rcguy1411

you willl see a fix come along soon lol the boat will come with a fiberglass repair kit LOL i feel bad about all the guys that got sucked in with these boats cutting corners to save a few $$$$$ will be the end of this company and a new term in this hobby mbrtr (might be ready to run ) if you are lucky

tripoli

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the fix for the gas tank vent leak (post # 339). Will also reduce the risk of getting water in the tank if you go bottom up
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69.../anchor/tm.htm

Here is a link for the water line from Warehouse Hobbies.
http://www.whhonline.com/product_p/wp3020.htm

While your there take the time to check out "Full throttle TV". Tony has alot of very good information in his videos. I think I have watched every one of them.

Trip

ahlenius

Ok so i have a new plug so it wont sink. Ifilled up the cable oiler,hopefully tomorrow is the day.Im gonna insure it through my Geico agent just in case! wish me luck!!!Oh ya the Zenoha seems really stiff it dosent want to turn over very easy should i pull the plug and put a little mix oil in the cylinder to help free it up or just leave it be?