Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
06-09-2011, 08:27 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
YESSIIIRRRR!!!!!! Been there and done that...........
ORIGINAL: amax
If you do have an issue with the HOA make sure to mention to them you run on METHANOL ( WOOD ALCOHOL) Not Gasoline,, and that the fuel we run is a "Green Fuel" meaning it has a Low Environmental Impact. Both Methanol and Nitromethane completely Dissipate in "3 Days" when introduced into Water. The only thing that Doesn't Dissipate is the Small Amount of Oil mixed with the fuel that isn't Burnt during Combustion.
Another thing to mention is your engine is Only .18 Cubic Inch (2.8 to 2.9 Cubic Centimeters) compared to the 300+ CC's of a 25hp Outboard.
If you do have an issue with the HOA make sure to mention to them you run on METHANOL ( WOOD ALCOHOL) Not Gasoline,, and that the fuel we run is a "Green Fuel" meaning it has a Low Environmental Impact. Both Methanol and Nitromethane completely Dissipate in "3 Days" when introduced into Water. The only thing that Doesn't Dissipate is the Small Amount of Oil mixed with the fuel that isn't Burnt during Combustion.
Another thing to mention is your engine is Only .18 Cubic Inch (2.8 to 2.9 Cubic Centimeters) compared to the 300+ CC's of a 25hp Outboard.
06-10-2011, 09:11 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
hey cpeisher, how did your tuning go?
In my opinion, when it comes to getting permission from your HOA the thing you should be most concerned with is noise. Your neighbors could probably care less about the small amount of emissions your toy boat is releasing, but they will damn sure raise a stink about the noise. If you really want to appease the HOA go stealth my friend and run at a respectful time of day. Good luck.
In my opinion, when it comes to getting permission from your HOA the thing you should be most concerned with is noise. Your neighbors could probably care less about the small amount of emissions your toy boat is releasing, but they will damn sure raise a stink about the noise. If you really want to appease the HOA go stealth my friend and run at a respectful time of day. Good luck.
06-10-2011, 09:37 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
ORIGINAL: cpeisher
Also, my radio box has cracked/broken in two places. The front screw location has cracked and broken on the top lid, including taking out a portion of the lip that seals inside the bottom portion of the box. I thick CA'd it back together, and made up the missing pieces with hot glue. The back screw location is fine on the top, but cracked where the screw threads into the boss/tab on the back side of the lower half of the radio box. I've read that this is a consequence of overtightening the screws. Now that it's broken, should i replace the radio box, and/or is there a mod i can do to make the radio box more robust?
Also, my radio box has cracked/broken in two places. The front screw location has cracked and broken on the top lid, including taking out a portion of the lip that seals inside the bottom portion of the box. I thick CA'd it back together, and made up the missing pieces with hot glue. The back screw location is fine on the top, but cracked where the screw threads into the boss/tab on the back side of the lower half of the radio box. I've read that this is a consequence of overtightening the screws. Now that it's broken, should i replace the radio box, and/or is there a mod i can do to make the radio box more robust?
I have seen a number of people build there own from 1\16 or 1\8 plywood sides\lid, and glass it directly to the floor of the hull.
06-10-2011, 11:54 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
I have heard a few people say to just grind off the screw tabs, or simply leave out the screws themselves, and use rubber bands to hold the box closed. Anyone else do that?
06-11-2011, 05:16 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Well the First thing I would recommend whether you have a Good radio box or not is water proofing your electronics, So WHEN you do develop a Leak,,, and you Will
you don't fry your electronics and loose your boat. There are Several Methods of doing so, My Favorite is "CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor" or "Corrosion X". I remove the Servos Bottom plate and open up the RX and SOAK all the electronics inside with a good Wet coat and put them back together Wet, then set the servos with the Output Shaft pointing UP and the RX with the connections pointing UP. I like to let them dry overnight, but I've seen a couple people make vids using the same method and Dunking the electronics in a bowl of water, Hooked up and working, after 30 min drying time.
you don't fry your electronics and loose your boat. There are Several Methods of doing so, My Favorite is "CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor" or "Corrosion X". I remove the Servos Bottom plate and open up the RX and SOAK all the electronics inside with a good Wet coat and put them back together Wet, then set the servos with the Output Shaft pointing UP and the RX with the connections pointing UP. I like to let them dry overnight, but I've seen a couple people make vids using the same method and Dunking the electronics in a bowl of water, Hooked up and working, after 30 min drying time.
06-11-2011, 03:35 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Wow, thanks for the tip on that one 
I'll get some asap. Is it a hardware/automotive store item, or is that likely only an internet special?
I'll get some asap. Is it a hardware/automotive store item, or is that likely only an internet special?
06-12-2011, 05:39 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
The CRC HDCI you may be able to pick up at a Boating Supply Store especially if your near salt water, some auto parts stores may carry it also, I have only been able to find the [link=http://redlinemotors.us/#/supplies/4530249121]Corrosion X on line[/link].
06-12-2011, 02:19 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
It went pretty well, after all was said and done.
I got some Tower 30% boat fuel and that helped ALOT. Right now i've got it starting and running very well. Starting is a little dicey, because of the chewed up gears in the Super Start, but hobby services has better replacement on the way. It should be here tuesday or wednesday. Running it gets up on plane pretty fast and i think it's runing pretty good, but i don't have a GPS or any other boat to run against, so i really have no way to tell. I'm wondering if there is an android app i can use so i can just put my cell phone in the boat and bring it back in and see how fast it went.
I'm also about 1/2 way through the Vegas Thread, page 75 or so, and i just read that i should really bu putting all my Vegas questions in there. Should i stop posting in this thread and just post in the Vegas thread from now on?
I got some Tower 30% boat fuel and that helped ALOT. Right now i've got it starting and running very well. Starting is a little dicey, because of the chewed up gears in the Super Start, but hobby services has better replacement on the way. It should be here tuesday or wednesday. Running it gets up on plane pretty fast and i think it's runing pretty good, but i don't have a GPS or any other boat to run against, so i really have no way to tell. I'm wondering if there is an android app i can use so i can just put my cell phone in the boat and bring it back in and see how fast it went.
I'm also about 1/2 way through the Vegas Thread, page 75 or so, and i just read that i should really bu putting all my Vegas questions in there. Should i stop posting in this thread and just post in the Vegas thread from now on?
06-12-2011, 03:04 PM
#35
RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
You could but at the same time, it would mean any questions you have would blend in to the thread. I would suggest you keep this thread going for at least part of the season. That way, you will get the help you need rather than have to pick it out of a thread that has how many pages?
06-12-2011, 03:20 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
I Don't have an Android but I'm guessing it's Not Water Proof??[&:]
I use the Garmin Fortrex 101 and have for a few years now, mine is actually a RE-Man unit I got off eBay for about $70 shipped. The big thing with the GPS is it needs to have a Clear View of the Sky to be Accurate.
[8D]
Like This..[:-]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcQs0h9d0fw&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
I use the Garmin Fortrex 101 and have for a few years now, mine is actually a RE-Man unit I got off eBay for about $70 shipped. The big thing with the GPS is it needs to have a Clear View of the Sky to be Accurate.
[8D]
Like This..[:-][youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcQs0h9d0fw&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
06-12-2011, 03:25 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Amax, the paint job on that boat in your avatar is WAY awesome (the chic ain't bad either), where did you get that done, and is it a Vegas?
06-12-2011, 04:36 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Nice video there. 50 mph, not bad
Is it possible to do that in a stock vegas? I.e. stock hardware and engine, just tweaks and adjustments and right fuel?
Is it possible to do that in a stock vegas? I.e. stock hardware and engine, just tweaks and adjustments and right fuel?
ORIGINAL: amax
I Don't have an Android but I'm guessing it's Not Water Proof??[&:]
I use the Garmin Fortrex 101 and have for a few years now, mine is actually a RE-Man unit I got off eBay for about $70 shipped. The big thing with the GPS is it needs to have a Clear View of the Sky to be Accurate.
[8D]Like This..[:-]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcQs0h9d0fw&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
I Don't have an Android but I'm guessing it's Not Water Proof??[&:]
I use the Garmin Fortrex 101 and have for a few years now, mine is actually a RE-Man unit I got off eBay for about $70 shipped. The big thing with the GPS is it needs to have a Clear View of the Sky to be Accurate.
[8D]
Like This..[:-][youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcQs0h9d0fw&feature=channel_video_title[/youtube]
06-12-2011, 05:07 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
I Painted it, and Yes it's a Vegas
No you will Never hit that speed with STOCK Stuff With Really good Fuel, Prop, Luck and A Lot of Tweaking,,, on a Really Good Day you may run around 40mph!!
No you will Never hit that speed with STOCK Stuff
With Really good Fuel, Prop, Luck and A Lot of Tweaking,,, on a Really Good Day you may run around 40mph!!
06-12-2011, 07:43 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Sorry for the delay....I am in my busy season at my job.....I wrote them a letter....expalining that the neighbors had no issues with my boat.....a SV 27, with a MVD pipe.....and some were actually entertained by me running the boat, that I have never hit any ducks, and that my fuel is not harmful to the envioronment....like gasoline is. They never responded. I ended up finding another neighborhoodlake with a buddy (superflyboy), and he knows thepresident of hisHOA, and we presented her with the facts about nitro (provided by AMAX) andshe had no issues whatsover.
ORIGINAL: cpeisher
How did your run in with the HOA turn out for you?
How did your run in with the HOA turn out for you?
06-13-2011, 09:01 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
I noticed before i ever started the engine on this boat that the coupler had a fair amount of runout in it. I check the crankshaft and it is fine, but the flywheel or coupler is where the problem is located. I've been reading through the big thread, and i noticed that a few others have had this problem as well. Since it is still under warranty, i assume hobby services will send me a new one, but will a new one be any better than the one i already have? I'd rather not have to pay for an "upgraded" part since the stock one should have been made properly to begin with. Thoughts?
Iruined one flex shaft trying to pull it out of the coupler because there is some kind of burr or something inside my drive coupler that makes it really hard to get the shaft in or out. When i was trying to remove it, even with the collet threaded all the way loose, pulling on the prop to get the whole assembly out fo the tube unwound the flex shaft and pulled it most of the way out of the stub. I tried to spread the teeth of the coupler apart, but i still bascially have to thread the flex shaft into and out of the collet, it will NOT slide in, even with pretty sever pressure.
Also, the last few times i've run, i've noticed that there seems to be some play between the strut/stuffing tube and the stub, such that the propeller seems to vibrate in the stuffing tube when turning at idle. I.e., the center of the prop basically oscillates around a circle with diameter equal to the play between the tube and the stub. I'm sure it doesn't get better at high rpm. I don't remember this much play being there before, buteven if it was it can'tbe the ideal. Everything i'm running is stock, prop, shaft, strut etc. Is it possible that the stub has been worn down against the brass stuffing tube? Somehow i think the law of material science prevent this,Rockwell hardness and all. If anything was going to wear out first it would seem to be the brass stuffing tube, not the stainless stub. But, obviously, i'm a noob and don't know what i don't know. More importantly, now that i know that there is play in the strut/stub location, how do i fix it? I guess i need to know what's out fo spec first. Are there published specs with tolerances on teh diamter of the stub, and the inside dimater of the stuffing tube at the strut?
Iruined one flex shaft trying to pull it out of the coupler because there is some kind of burr or something inside my drive coupler that makes it really hard to get the shaft in or out. When i was trying to remove it, even with the collet threaded all the way loose, pulling on the prop to get the whole assembly out fo the tube unwound the flex shaft and pulled it most of the way out of the stub. I tried to spread the teeth of the coupler apart, but i still bascially have to thread the flex shaft into and out of the collet, it will NOT slide in, even with pretty sever pressure.
Also, the last few times i've run, i've noticed that there seems to be some play between the strut/stuffing tube and the stub, such that the propeller seems to vibrate in the stuffing tube when turning at idle. I.e., the center of the prop basically oscillates around a circle with diameter equal to the play between the tube and the stub. I'm sure it doesn't get better at high rpm. I don't remember this much play being there before, buteven if it was it can'tbe the ideal. Everything i'm running is stock, prop, shaft, strut etc. Is it possible that the stub has been worn down against the brass stuffing tube? Somehow i think the law of material science prevent this,Rockwell hardness and all. If anything was going to wear out first it would seem to be the brass stuffing tube, not the stainless stub. But, obviously, i'm a noob and don't know what i don't know. More importantly, now that i know that there is play in the strut/stub location, how do i fix it? I guess i need to know what's out fo spec first. Are there published specs with tolerances on teh diamter of the stub, and the inside dimater of the stuffing tube at the strut?
06-13-2011, 09:15 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
are u sing to stock drive shat they are a pos if u want a good strong upgrade talk to toyotatruckin he makes a upgrade shaft
06-13-2011, 09:22 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
ORIGINAL: superflyboy1988
are u sing to stock drive shat they are a pos if u want a good strong upgrade talk to toyotatruckin he makes a upgrade shaft
are u sing to stock drive shat they are a pos if u want a good strong upgrade talk to toyotatruckin he makes a upgrade shaft
Yeah i was going to see about getting one of his shafts, does he still have aircapitol hobbies?
06-13-2011, 11:39 AM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
ORIGINAL: cpeisher
I noticed before i ever started the engine on this boat that the coupler had a fair amount of runout in it. I check the crankshaft and it is fine, but the flywheel or coupler is where the problem is located. I've been reading through the big thread, and i noticed that a few others have had this problem as well. Since it is still under warranty, i assume hobby services will send me a new one, but will a new one be any better than the one i already have? I'd rather not have to pay for an ''upgraded'' part since the stock one should have been made properly to begin with. Thoughts?
I ruined one flex shaft trying to pull it out of the coupler because there is some kind of burr or something inside my drive coupler that makes it really hard to get the shaft in or out. When i was trying to remove it, even with the collet threaded all the way loose, pulling on the prop to get the whole assembly out fo the tube unwound the flex shaft and pulled it most of the way out of the stub. I tried to spread the teeth of the coupler apart, but i still bascially have to thread the flex shaft into and out of the collet, it will NOT slide in, even with pretty sever pressure.
Also, the last few times i've run, i've noticed that there seems to be some play between the strut/stuffing tube and the stub, such that the propeller seems to vibrate in the stuffing tube when turning at idle. I.e., the center of the prop basically oscillates around a circle with diameter equal to the play between the tube and the stub. I'm sure it doesn't get better at high rpm. I don't remember this much play being there before, but even if it was it can't be the ideal. Everything i'm running is stock, prop, shaft, strut etc. Is it possible that the stub has been worn down against the brass stuffing tube? Somehow i think the law of material science prevent this, Rockwell hardness and all. If anything was going to wear out first it would seem to be the brass stuffing tube, not the stainless stub. But, obviously, i'm a noob and don't know what i don't know. More importantly, now that i know that there is play in the strut/stub location, how do i fix it? I guess i need to know what's out fo spec first. Are there published specs with tolerances on teh diamter of the stub, and the inside dimater of the stuffing tube at the strut?
I noticed before i ever started the engine on this boat that the coupler had a fair amount of runout in it. I check the crankshaft and it is fine, but the flywheel or coupler is where the problem is located. I've been reading through the big thread, and i noticed that a few others have had this problem as well. Since it is still under warranty, i assume hobby services will send me a new one, but will a new one be any better than the one i already have? I'd rather not have to pay for an ''upgraded'' part since the stock one should have been made properly to begin with. Thoughts?
I ruined one flex shaft trying to pull it out of the coupler because there is some kind of burr or something inside my drive coupler that makes it really hard to get the shaft in or out. When i was trying to remove it, even with the collet threaded all the way loose, pulling on the prop to get the whole assembly out fo the tube unwound the flex shaft and pulled it most of the way out of the stub. I tried to spread the teeth of the coupler apart, but i still bascially have to thread the flex shaft into and out of the collet, it will NOT slide in, even with pretty sever pressure.
Also, the last few times i've run, i've noticed that there seems to be some play between the strut/stuffing tube and the stub, such that the propeller seems to vibrate in the stuffing tube when turning at idle. I.e., the center of the prop basically oscillates around a circle with diameter equal to the play between the tube and the stub. I'm sure it doesn't get better at high rpm. I don't remember this much play being there before, but even if it was it can't be the ideal. Everything i'm running is stock, prop, shaft, strut etc. Is it possible that the stub has been worn down against the brass stuffing tube? Somehow i think the law of material science prevent this, Rockwell hardness and all. If anything was going to wear out first it would seem to be the brass stuffing tube, not the stainless stub. But, obviously, i'm a noob and don't know what i don't know. More importantly, now that i know that there is play in the strut/stub location, how do i fix it? I guess i need to know what's out fo spec first. Are there published specs with tolerances on teh diamter of the stub, and the inside dimater of the stuffing tube at the strut?
I use the brass flywheel and aluminum backer from Pro Boat, and an Octura Coupler on All my .18 engines.
There will be some play in the strut, it's a Bushing and not a bearing, it needs more clearance to allow more Lubrication, and Yes the bushing will wear out first,, Mike (AKA ToyotaTruckin) sells replacement bushing also I believe.
Is your prop Sharpened & Balanced or Stock??
All props must be Sharp and extremely well balanced and even then they will wobble more at certain RPM's than others, especially at low RPM's and Out of the water with No Load on it or the flex shaft.
ALWAYS Twist the flex shaft "Clockwise" as you remove and install it (like your trying to wind it up tighter). A tight fit in the coupler is Much better than a Loose fit.
06-13-2011, 12:40 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
ya mike sends a new bushing with the drive shaft
amax where do you get your fly wheel and coupler set up at im running the stock ST set up that came with my MVD but im now running the cvrm i have heard that the st set up dose not run true
amax where do you get your fly wheel and coupler set up at im running the stock ST set up that came with my MVD but im now running the cvrm i have heard that the st set up dose not run true
06-13-2011, 01:31 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
amax,
I guess i'm confused i didn't realize that there was an actual bushing piece.....? I thought that the stub was supposed to make contact with the brass (colored) stuffing tube...because that's what it's doing now...
I wonder if i should check the old stub to see if there is a bushing on it....if not, can i pick up the right size bushing material from a ahrdware store? What is the material and what are the dimensions?
I'll comment on the rest of your post in a little while amax.
Thanks
I guess i'm confused i didn't realize that there was an actual bushing piece.....? I thought that the stub was supposed to make contact with the brass (colored) stuffing tube...because that's what it's doing now...
I wonder if i should check the old stub to see if there is a bushing on it....if not, can i pick up the right size bushing material from a ahrdware store? What is the material and what are the dimensions?
I'll comment on the rest of your post in a little while amax.
Thanks
06-13-2011, 05:42 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
Ok i checked the old stub , the one where the flex shaft had pulled out, and there is no bushing on it. Also, i'll be posting a link to a video of my vegas running in the pond behind my house in a few minutes, it's uploading now. The boat slowly starts to go slower and slower and slower through out the run.
06-13-2011, 08:06 PM
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RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
If you are having issues with your flexshaft/bearing.......Toyatatruckin has beefed up replacements including the bearing. I am packing three of them right now.....two for my Vegas and one for my SV 27. Aquacraft makes a good hull in the Vegas.....hardware is decent except for the flexshaft....I can tell you from personal experience that they will fail rather quickly......usually at the solder joint....unless they have fixed the problem on new Vegas' and SV 27s....