NewRageRC

My Feedback: (1)

About 25 years ago my dad bought a nitro boat he found half finished in the classifieds I think it was newish at the time. For the next 10 years or so he occasionally fabbed a part for it, routed fuel line or bought some random parts at a hobby shop. A few years ago I picked it up from him promising that it would finally actually RUN one of these days, and now I think I finally have the time and interest to make it happen. I have no idea what the boat or engine are. If anyone could tell me that it would at least give me a starting point.

So tonight I started cleaning it up and clearing it out. It's been through a few moves, a flood and years of neglect. At some point some nitro fuel was spilled in it. Here's what I found:

- The motor still turns over and seems to have good compression
- But it's got some crud around the edges of the piston and the exhaust port looks pretty rough (see pics)
- The carb was pretty dirty and didn't want to open until I hit it with some WD40
- The glass is split a bit where the hull meets the deck (pic)
- The resin is brittle and flaking off the inside of the hull directly under the engine, presumably eaten up by nitro (pic)

So I have some questions and plans:
1) Anyone know what kind of boat this is? It's 32" long, 11" wide if it helps
2)And engine?Can I buy parts for it? It says "Made in Austria" an "HP" logo and a 40
3) Is the engine any good? Does it need rebuilt, replaced, or something else?
4)Is there any sense in using the old Futaba radio I have, or should Iget a new DSM receiver and pair it with another radio?
5)What kind of fuel do I want to run in this? I've got 20/11 nitro around for the buggy but my gut tells me I'll want something else
6) What kind of glow plug?
7)What can I do about the split between the hull and deck?
8)And the flaking resin in the bottom?Do I need to do anything at all?

The plan is to get some new fuel tanks and a filler, patch up the bottom however Ican/need to, get a glow plug and a filter and see what happens. My biggest concern is actually the clearance around the flywheel it looks like the starter pulley is going to get tangled up in it.

Thanks in advance for any help. I just recently got my nitro buggy and a micro and started getting in to RC again. They're both broken and waiting on parts, so when tinkering time came around tonight I spotted the boat.

Blackout

The engine appears to be an airplane engine converted to marine, but there is no water cooling head. You will want to wrap the head and block with some 5/32 inch copper tubing and run water through it. Clean the inside of the engine as best you can with wd-40 and then oil. Put a air prop on it to see if it will start and run good. You can build a test mount from wood and c-clamp it to a picnic table.

NewRageRC

My Feedback: (1)

That's exactly what I did cleaned it out as good as possible and clamped it to the bench. It does have a copper cooling collar, it was just taken off in those pictuers. I fed it some 20% nitro fuel, gave it a new(er) glow plug and an air cleaner and after some tinkering got it to fire up.

There is a leak between the back plate and crank case, any idea how I can scrounge up some parts? Searching for "HP 40 engine" in google is a nightmare.. all tractor engines. If nothing else I may try some RTV.

The carb needles are also surely way off. WishI had a starting point, but I'll get it figured out eventually. Thanks for the input.

misshydro

since that boat doesnt have a cowl ,If you have an open cowl you can run an air cooled engine in them.

chief3452

There is a leak between the back plate and crank case, any idea how I can scrounge up some parts? Searching for "HP 40 engine" in google is a nightmare.. all tractor engines. If nothing else I may try some RTV.


If you can't find the correct gasket you can make one. It only requires an x-acto knife and a manilla file folder. If your existing gasket is intact you can lay it on the folder paper and trace around it with a pencil or fine point pen. Another way of transfering the image is to hold the paper up against the engine case with the back plate removed and burnish or rub the paper so the edge of the case makes an impression on it. Be sure and use a new sharp blade and keep trimming until your satisfied with the fit. Good luck.

Hydro Junkie

Chief's suggestion works, but if you want to make it better, coat the paper with RTV and rub it in. It won't take much and at the same time, the gasket will seal better and not be able to soak up fuel if the machined areas don't line up perfectly

advanced builder

NewRageRC ,we all started out as a newbi. The hull splitting at the seams can be resealed buy Sig resin and fiberglass cloth/tape. clean all areas with Acetone before sealing. Some use Bondo in your auto store.
The engine is a sport engine. Depending on what you plan to do with the hull. The engine is not a very fast one. One can seal all voids with ATV High temp gasket maker. Looking at the engine it's in kinda bad shape , New bearings ,most likely. You can get the same engine from K&B http://www.mecoa.com/
Look in the technical questions for engine imfo.
The best engine bargain is Glenn's .21 size for your hull. http://novarossi.us/

Blackout

Unless you have experience with that engine, you can't say that for sure.

Run water cooling first and then check to see if it is running too cold. The head should be hot to the touch where you can leave your fingers on it for a few seconds without getting burned.

NewRageRC

My Feedback: (1)

I have an infrared temp gun I'm guessing I want the temps to be around the same as my trucks (275ish) ?

Blackout

I'd say between 180 - 200. Some motors like to be hotter than others it seems. Car motors like the heat, not sure about your HP 40, but 275 seems a little high.

Just mount your cooling clamp and you should be fine. I doubt the cooling clamp will cool too efficiently. While some cooling heads can easily over cool an engine.

advanced builder

Yes start her up. Ron told me to do a spit test. A slow bubble on the head is OK kinda simple but -It works
A high nitro fuel isn't worth the money, use 25% Marine nitro, or lower. If you notice a brown oil around the head or crank after you run her- bearings are shot. Boca bearing is the place for them. The K&B site is a place to start to read up on engines.

NewRageRC

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like that might be the case, advanced. There were a few drops on the bracket at the end of the crank case. Might have just been fuel that fell after being shot straight up out of the muffler but I don't know. In any case it'll be a while before I have a chance to get this on the water anyway.

advanced builder

Nitro and bearing don't mix . after-run oil is used at the end of the day ,running. Remove the plug and use a rag to cover the hole. I open the carb and drop in a few drops. spin her over 5-10 seconds. You can use Marvel mystery oil and a rust inhibitor. I f you take care of them they may last a few years. depending on how much you run.
http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...ODELS&Feature=

boatfreak

I don't think any one answered your questions on the hull-

Looks like a Dumas Deep Vee 40 Fiberglass. Dumas offered them in wood kits and fiberglass, they no longer offer the fiberglass kits. The fiberglass kits would arrive new with the hull and deck to be joined by the modeler, so the crack there isn't all that alarming. The fiberglass version was really nice back in it's day, and it'll be a really fun sport boat. They are somewhat rare these days.


The stats are similar to the wood kit which you can find here-
http://www.dumasproducts.com/product...roducts_id=422

Stick with it, it's worth it.