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Prop Strut

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Old 06-19-2012, 08:44 AM
  #1
wholehog
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Default Prop Strut

Does anyone know if someone makes a replacement liner for a 1/12 scale pro boat prop strut. I have worn out one or two,and it's a shame to through them away if they can be relined with a new bushing. Thanks.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:11 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

As far as I know the only replacement is to just buy a new strut, the boat actually benefits from modding it to fit a standard strut they are adjustable and use a replaceable brass bushing and normal flexshaft
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:15 PM
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wholehog
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Default RE: Prop Strut

So are you saying that there is a strut made that has a replaceable brass bushng that will adapt to my 1/12 pro boat hydro? Thanks
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:21 PM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

that would be a yes.
the replacement struts won't be the same as what you have, meaning it will not attach itself to the under side of the hull.
It attach itself to the back of the transom, and this will give you a lot more tuning ability than the original strut.

the following is for the Aquacraft UL-1, not saying to get that one, but just to give you an idea of what to get.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVXS9&P=7

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Old 06-20-2012, 05:20 AM
  #5
wholehog
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Default RE: Prop Strut

Thanks for your help.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:57 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

I think I will attempt this. Is the strut you had me look at the one I need? I am sure I'll have to change the flex shaft also,and if so,which one do I need? Can I still use the stock size prop shaft. I use a s/s prop I really like on the stock prop shaft,which I think is 3mm. I have tried some other props (Octura) that are for 1/8 in shaft using a shim,but the boat just didn't seem to perform a well with the bigger prop,as with the S/S prop. Wish I could find a aluminum prop that would work. Tried to get info from hobbbico about what to use,they didn't have a clue. One other question,my steering rod boot comes out just a tick to the left center on the transom,will this new strut fit and clear the boot? Thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:13 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

The stock strut is good, but having an adjustable strut is so much better!
I've attached a few pictures of different ways some people have out them on the 1:21 hydro.
I have the same boat with .15 & .18 engines & found a y535 brass or the proboat s/s prop best so far, the aluminium props I've tried I wasn't happy with.
hope it helps a little, with the white boat's set up I cut open the deck & fitted an aluminium backing to strength the transon because proboat use a ply wood& found it to be weakwith a bigger motor
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:28 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

I like the stock style strut that mounts on the bottom of the red boat,and the strut on the white boat. Can the sleeve be replaced on either style? Do you have the info on both of these struts? Thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:38 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

Oops,didn't say witch red boat. Either one,you tell me,looks as if the stock stile on the red boat on the left would be the easiest fix. Thanks again
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:51 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

the bottom mounted strut bracket was originally a part from TLR (out of business) that one may have been theirs or a home done job but the strut looks familiar. Yes going to any of those struts you get to change your flexshaft to a regular style, (3/16 drop to 1/8 for 1/8 bore props is most common), I can sell you a complete shaft with bushing drive-dog lock-nut but you would need to cut it to length, if I get time in the next day or so Ill look through the TLR blue print's and see if I can find that bracket or see if I have one around here I just might..
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:07 AM
  #11
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Default RE: Prop Strut

Thanks again. What about the setup on the red boat on the stand or the white boat. I have two other 1/12 pro boat hydros I'll need to convert over to. I would like to use something that I will be able to get parts for a long time in the future. Your the expert here,what's going to be the easiest converson? I don't race but I get a lot of pond time at the house. The second boat I accuired is for the wife,and the third is for my Brother-in-law,so I need to fix both of them. What up with the insert wearing out so fast any way? Is this just the nature of the beast? I try and not run the boat out of the water no longetr than I have to,and just as a precaution,I'll put a drop oil in the strut's water hole to help in keeping it lubed until I get the boat in the water. New strut has had about five tanks of gas and it is already getting sloppy causing the prop to get a bit of a wobble.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:35 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

Any of those set-ups above are going to do basically the same thing, give you an adjustable prop angle and height which is a must to get the most out of a boat and cheap replaceable wear parts (the bushing) also gong with a standard flexshaft your not limited to one brand you could even use a miss vegas stock replacement shaft and cut it to length in a pinch.
You do need to either extend the stock stuffing tube so it will reach a new drive or replace the tube completely <-gets my vote- the bracket that bolts up to the bottom does a nice job of filling the stock recess..

One thing about R/C boats is parts are limited and parts suppliers/builders come and go there is no set-in-stone suppliers in this end of the hobby, just ones that have managed to stick around longer than others
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:14 AM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

Are you Greasing the Flex Shaft & Bushing Every 2 or 3 runs?? I have run several of these with Stock Set Up and Never wore a bushing out.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:56 PM
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Default RE: Prop Strut

The white boat setup is the one I cut the back out of the boat & replaced it & the flex shaft, look up building gp1 in the forum.
Thepicture of the yellow boat is a vegas (not sure of spelling) setup from the net but I made my own setup on the red & yellow boat with blue flame work, look up .21 in t hull Proboat. Miss hydro has done the same to her boats in regards for strut setup.
The best setup I have was to cut the boat & do it properly, lolks like it was ment to be like that from factory but the home made con-versions still work fine

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