scavone128

I recently bought a nitro supervee and the cowl was missing so I got a new one, but it didn't come with a latch and the only ones I can find online come in packs of two for 20 and I don't want to spend that much, especially if I'm only going to use one. Does anyone know if there's any alternate options? Also I took out the radio box to build a new one, and I noticed that there's a pretty good bend right before collet nut. Is this alright or do I need to straighten it, and if I do what's the best way to go about it? One last thing is that there is a large gap between the prop and the strut, the shaft is stock could it need to be shortened. Sorry if these are stupid questions this is my first nitro boat and I just want to be well prepared for the first time I take it out, thanks in advance for any help.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Somebody replaced the stuffing tube and didn't do a very good job of it. The tell-tale sign is the lousy way that it was installed.
I can't blame you for wanting to build a new radio box, the stock one is junk and way overpriced for what it is.
The flex cable is too long, possibly it isn't fitting properly into the flex cable collet as it should have about a 3/16" gap between the drive dog and strut.
$20.00 is a lot of money for the hatch locks as I can get Aeromarine hatch locks for less and they're bigger and better but won't fit on this boat. Maybe try these: http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=370 .

scavone128

Thanks for the advice, any tips on cutting the flex shaft down so that it won't unravel? Also should I just cut out the epoxy and realign the stuffing tube then reepoxy it back in so that its straight, I was thinking of cutting a little triangle of 1/8 in plywood and fiberglasing it in under the mount for the radio box, with a hole cut in the middle for the stuffing tube to go through. Will that be sufficient or am I going to need a new brass tube? Thanks again for the info.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Just use a good Dremel cut-off wheel, that's all that I use, nothing fancy and have never had a problem with the windings coming loose or unraveling. The stuffing tube can be shortened with the same cut-off wheel if you have a right-angle adapter on the Dremel or replace the whole thing, that's up to you.
The original stuffing tube should go all the way through the hull and strut which made adjusting the strut all but impossible. I removed the strut and cut the tubing off at the transom so afterwards it had a lot more adjustment than I'd ever need!

scavone128

Well it looks like I'm going to need to get a new brass tube. Just a few questions first though, first off should I replace the tube with one the same length and have it go all the way through the strut, or should I cut it just short of the strut and use a bushing? I'm a little confused because I thought there was suposto be a Teflon liner to the brass tube, is there suposto be just a brass tube that the flex shaft fits inside? One last question, if I do decide to go with a bushing which one would be best?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I figured that as the tube looked trashed anyway.
if it was me, I'd make two tubes, one to fit inside the strut then another from the transom to the engine.
No, you don't need the Teflon liner, just keep the cable well greased.

scavone128

How would I install the tube into just the strut in a way that would keep it from spinning against the strut?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Flare it just a little at the prop end.

scavone128

Sorry if this is a dumb question but how do you flare the end?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You can do it simply by twisting a Phillip's head screwdriver into the head or if you have a tubing/pipe cutter with a piece that cleans out the inside of the tubing, you can flare it with that also. Alternative where you'll spend the money, a brake line flaring tool.

scavone128

just a quick question a 7/32 tube is the correct size to use right? i cant find info on the stock shaft anywhere, I'm assuming since its a 3/16 prop shaft that the cable is a .150