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  1. #1

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    1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    Rather than deal with nine pages of mixed info and stuff, since I'm getting back into building, I figured it's time to start a new thread. I've decided that, to prevent confusion, I would concentrate on one boat rather than two or three. My subject for this thread will be the 1973 Pay'N Pak. I know building jigs, tools and several other subjects were discussed in the other thread so I won't get back into those subjects unless someone has a question. That being said, time to get back to the build.
    So far, I've laid out all the internal framing onto a combination of 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick aircraft grade plywood and have cut out most of the parts. I've tack-glued 1/4" stringers to the sponson insides where the hull bottom will be attached and along the bottom edge of the sponson as can be seen in the first picture The Pak is shown on the left side of the picture, the 1972 Notre Dame is in the center while the 2009 Oberto is shown on the right. . All tack-glued parts are attached with 15 second gap filling CA/super glue to speed up the process of attaching them.
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  2. #2

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    After doing some final finish work on the framing, I epoxied the right sponson transom to the right sponson inside and the sponson insides to the transom. For the boat to perform properly, THESE JOINTS MUST BE SQUARE. I next dryfitted the engine bay walls and cross frames into the sponson insides to verify the fit. This is a must as Newton plans were all hand drawn and do contain errors. It's better to find and fix errors now, before the glue is applied, than after and have to dig out the ill-fitting parts
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  3. #3

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    What are you planning to power these with

  4. #4

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    I have a pair of NIB CMB 67s with OS 9B carbs ready to go that will be installed when I get that far

  5. #5

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    nice

  6. #6

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    Looking good!
    Craig Mapstone, IMPBA #20305S, Stony Pond Model Boat Club
    2012 D1 20 Hydro Champion

  7. #7
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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    any updates
    Stoney Pond Model Boat Club, Canandaigua, NY
    International racer
    http://neilsrcsite.shutterfly.com/

  8. #8

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    RE: 1/8th Scale Hydroplane Build

    Not much going on update wise until Sunday. With the Columbia Cup starting today with qualifying and the "Dash for Cash as well as R/C Unlimiteds race tomorrow(and yes, my Elam will be running) I won't get to do anything on the boat builds until after I get home on Sunday evening. I do have the engine bay walls and the aft two sets of cross frames ready to epoxy in so, I'll see what I can do about posting a picture or two Sunday evening

  9. #9
    just started a build 92 tide base from a cut above dont like the offset thinking getting another kit and have 1 wide and one small

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  10. #10

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    Sorry all that I haven't got to post any updates, just haven't had the chance to work on the boats.
    Axsissti, build it the way it is or a wider version if you don't plan on racing. To go narrower will give you nothing but problems on the water, been there done that

  11. #11
    thanks for the advice will make a spacer and keep it same as stock

  12. #12
    just got 2 mhz jet 52 drives going to thy and get it together this weekend, have to modify back half to accommodate the 2 waterjets Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #13

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    Trust me, that's going to be a futile exercise. For the jet drive to work, the back end of the boat MUST STAY IN THE WATER. For a hydroplane to work properly, the back end of the boat MUST FLY ABOVE THE WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just so you know, all of the full sized hydroplanes built since 1949, starting with the Slo-Mo-Shun III & IV, have been prop riders. This means the rear of the boat is supported by a combination of air going under the hull and the prop.

    Now, getting back to my build, I found a couple of issues with some of the parts so I've been fixing them as well as working on my scale Elam Plus trying to solve some radio issues. If all goes well, I'll have pictures posted this weekend
    Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 09-06-2013 at 09:08 AM.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
    Trust me, that's going to be a futile exercise. For the jet drive to work, the back end of the boat MUST STAY IN THE WATER. For a hydroplane to work properly, the back end of the boat MUST FLY ABOVE THE WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just so you know, all of the full sized hydroplanes built since 1949, starting with the Slo-Mo-Shun III & IV, have been prop riders. This means the rear of the boat is supported by a combination of air going under the hull and the prop.

    Now, getting back to my build, I found a couple of issues with some of the parts so I've been fixing them as well as working on my scale Elam Plus trying to solve some radio issues. If all goes well, I'll have pictures posted this weekend
    Agree 100%.

    The Ottawa Valley Racers had a great 1/8 scale (Sport 60) turnout at their 2013 Thunder in the Valley. It was listed as Sport 60, but all the boats looked like scale boats to me. And there was a concours trophy awarded! Good job O.V.R.!!
    Craig Mapstone, IMPBA #20305S, Stony Pond Model Boat Club
    2012 D1 20 Hydro Champion

  15. #15
    thats why im building 2 i like being different just want to see how it will run it will be my water toy, depends on how it runs i might take them out and pun both in a deep v and keep the other hydro to scale

  16. #16
    project up date have 1 framed working on 2nd Click image for larger version. 

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