Need help identifying old rigger
#26
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if your going to strip off all the existing paint you really need to re seal the bare wood with a suitable epoxy like west systems or zpoxy thinned out abit so it can soak into the wood abit, give 2 coats before applying the nelsons primmer. don,t use the old 27 meg radio as you might get bad interference and lose the boat. keep us up to date with your progress on this restoration process.
#27
One word of caution:
NOT ALL EPOXIES CAN BE THINNED WITH SOLVENTS
You need to check the manufacturer's website for the brand you use and see if there are any limitations. I know for a fact that West Systems CANNOT be thinned with solvents. You can, however, thin it with heat. Now comes the catch, heat will cause it to cure faster so you will need to work faster and use the slowest hardener they have, the 209.
NOT ALL EPOXIES CAN BE THINNED WITH SOLVENTS
You need to check the manufacturer's website for the brand you use and see if there are any limitations. I know for a fact that West Systems CANNOT be thinned with solvents. You can, however, thin it with heat. Now comes the catch, heat will cause it to cure faster so you will need to work faster and use the slowest hardener they have, the 209.
#28
And now, a possible ID and request from Andy Brown:
Note the position of the rear booms on Wayne two Avengers (close to rear of sponson). The "mystery" boat has a long distance from the boom to rear of sponson, which is late model Marty Davis Crapshooter or Gregg Hughey Crapshooter. Most likely they are Greg Hughey version Crapshooter sponsons.
I am not sure about the tub. Need to see a side profile shot.
If you could post a picture of the side of the tub(center hull that houses the engine and radio gear), Andy might be able to give more information on the boat
Note the position of the rear booms on Wayne two Avengers (close to rear of sponson). The "mystery" boat has a long distance from the boom to rear of sponson, which is late model Marty Davis Crapshooter or Gregg Hughey Crapshooter. Most likely they are Greg Hughey version Crapshooter sponsons.
I am not sure about the tub. Need to see a side profile shot.
If you could post a picture of the side of the tub(center hull that houses the engine and radio gear), Andy might be able to give more information on the boat
#30
West Systems says, right on their website, that thinning with solvents adversely affects the cure and strength of the product. They say that, if you need to thin it, to use heat as it will thin it and make it flow better than using it at room temperature. Here's what is said in the West Systems User's Manual on pages 26-27:
Thinning Epoxy
There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. Those products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM Epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but this results in similar compromises in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone and lacquer thinner have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM Epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you choose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength, especially compressive strength, and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added. There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating (up to 120°F) of the project area with a heat gun or heat lamp before applying epoxy. On contact with the warmed substrate, the epoxy will thin out, penetrating cavities and pores, and will be drawn even deeper into pores as the substrate cools. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerably shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.
Thinning Epoxy
There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. Those products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM Epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but this results in similar compromises in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone and lacquer thinner have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM Epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you choose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength, especially compressive strength, and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added. There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating (up to 120°F) of the project area with a heat gun or heat lamp before applying epoxy. On contact with the warmed substrate, the epoxy will thin out, penetrating cavities and pores, and will be drawn even deeper into pores as the substrate cools. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerably shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 01-23-2018 at 01:20 AM.
#31
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Here you go. I posted this to the mystery boat thread as well. Thanks. I'm just the new guy but if this is a scratch built tub, the builder was a craftsman. The quality inside and out makes me think it was built by someone who did this every day for a long time. All the reinforcements inside are cut to perfection as are the blocks that hold the servos etc. Engine plate is "machine turned". Very high quality imo.