wave waker

Ron, are you referring to an aeroplate lubricant?..thanks..

wave waker

kevin,i would say raise the rudder bracket, i did bout 3/4 '' this will help decreasing the drag from the rudder mount...cutting might coz turning and handling problem..


i'm using energizer 2500nimh for both tx and rx,no problem.

paulleonard

Hey guys,,,long time no see...I've been moding away...Here is the list of my latest mods..

Added a tiger electric start.
upgraded to a 4.5 oz fuel tank with an auto fill.
Built and installed a wooden radio box and sealed with finishing epoxy.
Also aluminum Rudder assembly with water pickup. (eliminated bottom mounted one)
modified top for easy access and ventalation.

Kevin from FL

Thanks for the info wave waker, I was wondering if the rudder mount caused any drag.

Paul, who makes the rudder assy you have and how much run time do you get with the 4.5 oz fuel tank. Does the extra fuel slow the boat down any?

Kevin

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

This is what I use, the 4 oz. spray bottle. You only need a few squirts in the bottom of a servo or around a reciever. This bottle has lasted me a long time and I've done a lot of boats with it.
http://www.aerotrend.com/shop_cat.php?cat=1
The 2 oz. bottle is fine for those that don't have a fleet of boats. With the 16 oz. refill bottle you can use it to dunk whole RX's and servos into it.

paulleonard

I believe the rudder assembly is a traxxas, I will locate the information and post the part number ..as far as the run time, I can better answer this after the first run this weekend..

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

i dont think traxxas makes aluminum rudders? all there boats use outdrives.

paulleonard

.18 / .6 6 Machined Rudder Assembly

for Nitro or Electric powered boats . Finally a unique and High quality rudder at a reasonable price. Just the first in Aeromarines new line of machined hardware. Our new Posi-turn rudder with bronze bushings offer a positive, no bind, strong and lightweight answer to those flimsy stock setups on the new hydros and deep vees.



[link=http://www.monsterrccentral.com/boats/Hardware/Rudders/rudders.htm]click for rudder assembly[/link]

Kevin from FL

Thanks Paul. I found it [link=http://www.aeromarinerc.com/runninggear.htm]here[/link]:

wave waker

thanks Ron got ya, i thought at first aeroplate is a radio box

wave waker

hey paul post pics if ur done with ur mods pls....wanna see the tiger starter and the 4.5 tank,,,i'm using 4 oz now and running time 15 minutes most, maybe i can still go bigger....

paulleonard

pics are in my gallery, if there is somthing specific you are looking for let me know and i will post one...

Thanks for looking..

paulleonard

I Think the way i have it laid out i could put almost any size tank...don't you think, the questions is weather or not weight is a factor...speed vs. weight

wave waker

nice and neat job..how do u lock the canopy since u took off the post??

paulleonard

good question. I Used a Straping system like " O" Rings mounted on the rear of the canopy and I installed a Brass post in the front of the canopy ( Just like the Hammer EP) only a little more durable. I will post pics....

paulleonard

I Posted Pics on the attachment for the canopy...If you have any questions please ask....Thanks for looking

paulleonard

Well took the Nitro hammer out this weekend for a test run....Runs great, and with the larger Fuel tank im getting approx 12 min at full throttle...i'm lovin the new rudder setup. i've been testing the different settings for less drag -----Its adjustable by angle--- see pics----...I highly recommend this rudder...extremely stable...Turns on a dime..

wave waker

Paul just saw ur gallery, i like ur set-up, so what's that screw next to antenna? also where u got ur trim tab and rudder.

paulleonard

I picked both items up at my local rc store...here is the link for the rudder online [link=http://www.aeromarinerc.com/runninggear.htm]http://www.aeromarinerc.com/runninggear.htm[/link] the trim taba are just a little bit bigger than factory..I believe made by Traxxas i'll double check I Should have the package aroud here somewhere ...The Bolt looking thig is a quick fill for my fuel tank ....I use that instead of pulling off hoses to fuel the boat...It is widely common for people who fly airplanes....Just thought it would be alot easier than messing aroud with hoses every 20 min to fuel up.....

Kevin from FL

Thanks for the update Paul, the mods look good man.

It appears that the bigger fuel tank didn't slow you down, I like that and the fact that you got 12 minutes of run time at WOT.

I did notice one thing and it may be an optical illusion from the pic angles. The new rudders leading edge appears to be closer to the transom than the factory one and it also appears to be shorter in length.

Do you know the length of the factory rudder verses the new one you have now?

My boat was on backorder but was showing in stock on Towers. I called today to check on it and why it hasn't shipped yet. Well they lost my backorder form It should be here Thursday

Thanks for all the info guys, this should be fun.

paulleonard

The factory rudder was 2 1/4 inch from transom to the center of the rudder and 3 1/4 inch long...the new rudder is 2 1/4 inch from the transom and 4 1/4 inches long...so basically the new rudder is longer, but adjustable ---tilt ---- and is alot easier to remove the prop for maintainence---or greasing....Good luck, and welcome to the Nitro Hammer thread!!


Happy Boating

I'm currently looking for another boat to add to my collection...

Kevin from FL

Thanks for the welcome and info Paul.

Has anyone tried installing the rudder you have and then adding a " Y " fitting with a check valve on one inlet side to utilize both water supply lines to the engine? Just thinking out loud here

Kevin from FL

Well the Hammer came in Thursday and I have been doing some mods.

I took the gas tank and the engine out so I could epoxy the stingers and transom. The engine had a washer under the left forward mount hole, I assume it was for getting the motor to line up with the prop shaft. The stringer was split down the middle from the screws also on that side. I put epoxy on all the wood I could reach but I couldn't get the control box to come out so I could epoxy the whole transom......I really wanted to do the transom the most!

I modified the header so it would match the engine exhaust, installed the HPIG0875 exhaust gasket and put loc-tite on the threads with backing nuts. I fixed the trim tab misalignment to the bottom of the boat by elongating one of the mount holes on left trim tab, removed the on-off switch because the canopy/hatch wouldn't seat in the back. I then waterproofed the servo's and receiver.

I reassembled everything including the washer on the left side mounting hole and filled the boat with fuel today. Well the fitting on the bottom of the fuel tank leaks and the engine seized on the first pull with no indication of a light off. Hmmm, is it the pull starter?

I removed the fuel tank, prop shaft and throttle linkage...pulled the engine, removed the glow plug and starter assy. Nothing wrong with both. I tried to rotate the engine and it was hung up on top dead center. I got it free and it kept trying to lock up so I kept rotating it and adding a drop of fuel now and then. After five minutes of manually turning the engine over by hand it freed up.

I reassembled it all back (still have the fuel leak at the bottom fitting) and gave it a try. The engine would light off but would only stay running for a bit unless I pushed the primer knob and throttle advance wouldn't keep the engine running. Would that leak at the bottom of the tank cause the tank not to pressurize enough to feed the engine?

I have put some marine silicone around the fitting threads and will give it a try Sunday.

Any thought's on this would be appreciated.

lnc0321

Here are some PICS of my hammer.

lnc0321

PIC