Speed - RC Nitro Boats For all your rc nitro fuel burning boating needs.

THE UNOFFICIAL SHOCKWAVE 36 THREAD

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Old 08-11-2013, 03:01 PM
  #2376  
Ron Olson
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Yeah, it's dead but somebody forgot to bury it.
Myself and a friend from Indiana did some prop testing from what I had in my box of props. On radar we got the best speed out of the Octura M-445. Zippkits sells a hassle-free sharpened and balanced 444 that might be the ticket.
Most carb setting problems are with the low-speed needle as it's way off from the factory.
Seeing how ProBoat got out of nitro boats, things kind of died off for these boats.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:38 AM
  #2377  
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Hey Ron I am so glad that you replied this means you're well, lol dead and unburied thread I had not written something for so long here I had even forgotten that I had a username and in fact I created another one ! I was 'bijouxcat' before and we had sometimes corresponded back in 2006 and 2007! How time flies man !! I am reading all the thread again - am at page 68 right now. Regarding the prop, thank you for your input, I'm using a sharpened and balanced Prather 230 and I'm OK with it as I don't race anyone, I just like to see my SW go fast and scream. This summer I've been going quite frequently with my dad to the bay with the boats (we run in salt water). He is an old school RC Boat enthusiast - since the 1960's. In fact he is running his old electric boats now, a Sea Queen and a Sea Commander and another boat Hawaii. Always doing modifications and trying things out. The fun of it all. He says they used to run diesel engines in the old days. I still prefer nitro with all the disadvantages it carries, but I like nitro the sound the smell and all the fiddly small adjustments till you find the sweet spot . This summer I have re-positioned the antenna so that it is eliminated from the receiver box perspex cover and top hatch, I have perfected the position of one of the adjustable trim tabs as it was installed too low affecting performance, I have put floatation material in the hull, double sealed the bottom nozzle of the fuel tank, installed a new fuel filter, sealed the head gasket as it was leaking. Now I have a slipping one way bearing, took it out and left it in petrol overnight and re-installed it. Seems to be gripping again. Tomorrow I will see how it goes, already ordered a new one in case it is dead like this thread :/ Ah yes I should mention that I have crashed the boat 3 weeks ago stupid me started it, put it in the water and forgot to switch on the radio gear!! Off it went towards the concrete slipway and then BOOM but at least it was at idle speed so damage was not that serious. Snapped the rudder also. I repaired it no problem and put some transparent rubber tubing on the front to serve as a bumper in the future, looks cool too. So you're still running nitro Ron - what are you doing lately? Where is everybody? I guess most people went gas and brushless electrics these days . .
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:09 PM
  #2378  
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Yeah, I'm still alive but hanging on by a thread.
I've still got a few nitro burners but they're collecting dust. I got into the gas boats and have bought quite a few of those. One thing's for sure, I won't get into electrics!
I threw a boat in the water without turning on the RX for a buddy did at a race over in the Chicago area, I thought that he had turned it on.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:10 AM
  #2379  
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Today was very frustrating. Yesterday afternoon I started the engine in my garage to verify that all is good, and it fired up no problem - with the one way bearing OK - Went to our bay this morning and the bearing kept on slipping so could not start the engine. After more than an hour (I was swimming and sunbathing in the meantime while my dad ran his Sea Queen) I tried again and the bearing worked. On and off that is, once ok, nine times not. Managed to start the engine at last and threw the SW into the water. It was cavitating a lot, could not get up on a plane, was running slow, sounded lean. Then the engine died, had to swim out to get it back. I tried richening a bit the high end, started it again after a lot of frustration because of the slipping bearing, it ran slightly better but still very bad hitting maybe 15MPH top speed. Got it back in and decided to call it a day coz it was late. Back in the garage for cleaning and inspection..... unbelievable what I discovered. A bent prop and a dislodged strut, which made the shaft hard to get out and stiff to rotate!! It must have hit some pebbles when I threw it in the water in the shallow part !! How could it possibly get on a plane with a bent prop at a positive angle raising the bow towards the sky? Now all is clean once again, prop back to normal shape plus sharpened and polished further, strut re-aligned ok. Waiting for the replacement one-way bearing by mail, hopefully next time I will run 3 tanks WOT at least to make up for this mess. Do you know whether clear varnish is fuel proof? I need to coat my tank and engine compartment with something fuel proof. So how are gas boats - easier to run? Do they usually mount a clutch system or are they moving all the time like nitros? Do gas engines rev as high as the nitro engines? Or do they rev less but with much bigger torque thanks to larger capacities?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:37 PM
  #2380  
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Sometimes a shot of fuel on the bearing will fix it. It's worked for me in the past but I don't know why.
You can coat and from what I've seen, it wouldn't be a bad idea to seal the inside of a ProBoat hull. Some epoxy will work just fine.

As far as gas boats, I love the nitro but I should have made the switch to gas years ago! So much less hassle. Set-it-and-forget-it needle settings, cheaper fuel even with me using Coleman camp stove fuel and Honda HP-2 oil and not having to pay big bucks replacing glow plugs constantly.
Clutches are available but to me it's one more thing to go wrong. I'm not out cruising past the bikini babes but running wide open so no need for one.

O, I've had a few props hit the bottom on launch, it really hurts when it's a high-dollar gas prop! You want to cry.....
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:41 AM
  #2381  
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
Sometimes a shot of fuel on the bearing will fix it. It's worked for me in the past but I don't know why.
You can coat and from what I've seen, it wouldn't be a bad idea to seal the inside of a ProBoat hull. Some epoxy will work just fine.

As far as gas boats, I love the nitro but I should have made the switch to gas years ago! So much less hassle. Set-it-and-forget-it needle settings, cheaper fuel even with me using Coleman camp stove fuel and Honda HP-2 oil and not having to pay big bucks replacing glow plugs constantly.
Clutches are available but to me it's one more thing to go wrong. I'm not out cruising past the bikini babes but running wide open so no need for one.

O, I've had a few props hit the bottom on launch, it really hurts when it's a high-dollar gas prop! You want to cry.....

I have cured my engine problem by water cooling the manifold with some brass tube, It was driving me nuts slowing down speeding, rich, lean whatever, but now I can run tank after tank no problems.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:36 AM
  #2382  
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Talking about the manifold cooling, I once read that cooling it down decreases the top end performance as the exhaust flow would be effected by the metal not reaching a high enough temperature. Mind you, my header is water cooled too so not saying that I wouldn't do it, as I already did that. Ron any comments about this?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:04 AM
  #2383  
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We have 2 of these boats, both did the same thing, ran a few laps and then go lean, we endid up running them so rich but even then they started to get to hot, loads of stuff on this thread about it and loads of ideas, water cooling the manifold cured it a 100% and in 5 mins.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:38 AM
  #2384  
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Cool, it's nice when you find the source and solve the problem. On Wednesday I will be running my SW again and hope to find a good engine tune. I have put tight fitting jablo (expanded polystyrene) in the bow (in front of the fuel tank) and I centrally sandwiched 3 metal car wheel studs for a total weight of 8 ounces in the jablo. Carved a cool tight place for them in there. This has moved the center of gravity of the boat about an inch forward towards the bow, thus I'm hoping it will help with riding stability at high speeds. The jablo will also help the boat float in case of it flipping. Last time I went to run my SW my one way bearing died so could not start the engine. Was looking up a youtube demo of how to start the engine manually with a belt, could not find any. Do you need an electric motor to turn the belt or can you do it manually by hand? Coz I like the idea of a belt around the flywheel, no mechanisms to go wrong. Simpler is better.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:08 PM
  #2385  
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Yes, you can use a starting belt. It's measured by the length so you'll want one 10-12" long. An inexpensive starter will do the job for you and a 12-volt gel cell battery with 6.5 amps or more.
Sometimes a little fuel on the one-way bearing with get it working again, I've fixed a few of them that way.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:39 AM
  #2386  
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Thanks for the info Ron you're always there to give precious advice and share the knowledge. I have an idea in mind, will try it out. I can use a cordless drill to turn the belt and start the engine. I'll just loop the belt over the rotating drill head while holding the drill in hand above the engine pulley and pulling upwards to create tension. The drill is strong enough to turn the engine that's for sure, and the belt should not slip if it is soft enough. Regarding the one-way bearing, I replaced it with a new one because I gave up on the cleaning. It would work immediately after cleaning and then fail again soon afterwards. I noticed much more play in the used one than in the new one, so probably its life was over. The shaft fits in much more snugly in the new bearing. Oh well, wear and tear is part of the game i guess
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:39 AM
  #2387  
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I haven't tried a cordless drill as a belt starter but my son used a Sullivan Tiger Drive on his nitro truck using mine, http://sullivanproducts.com/TigerDriveMainFrame.htm . It still doesn't get you around the one-way bearing problem though.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:23 AM
  #2388  
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Yes yes I know about the Sullivan Tiger Drive I have it installed on my Dynamite .32 engine. Found it to be good and reliable. One-way bearing is no problem, it needed replacing and that's what I did, a 10-15 minute job and no big expense. Old bearing must have started the engine hundreds of times before failing, so R.I.P.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:38 AM
  #2389  
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My Boat came with a Sullivan Tiger Drive, never missed a beat, its a pain taking a battery and starter to the lake
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:59 PM
  #2390  
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Went to the beach yesterday morning and took my boat with me. Spent about two whole hours performing trial and error runs to find a decent HSN setting for the engine to keep going at more that 1/4 throttle. Tried many many different settings of the HSN (LSN seemed to be OK since boat was starting and idling well with a correct pinch test result). On the stand and out of the water it worked perfectly with perfect throttle response and without stalling (??!!)
When I was about to give up (boat was stalling as soon as I gave it a bit of throttle or stalling suddenly for no reason at all on the water and I even tried replacing the glow plug), it dawned on me that it might be the new fuel filter I recently installed. So I removed it and tried again without it . . . and BABAMM! Boat was soon going very fast ( after two more fine HSN adjustments) screaming its heart out and jumping the small waves and attracting everyone's attention with a smile. The 8oz weight which I recently added in front of the fuel tank seemed to stabilze the SW a lot at high speed. Before I removed the filter, I had noticed some air bubbles in the fuel line, so that's what made me think. Fuel hose is new and was tight fitting over the new filter, so I cannot understand how air was going in. I'm happy that I managed to sort this out, but I have another fuel filter of another type that I intend to try out. I'm curious whether the expert RC boat racers consider installing a fuel filter as a necessity, or whether they opt to do without for more direct fuel supply to the carb.
My dad's old Hawaii boat ran great with the new 12V Graupner 700 TURBO watercooled brushed motor. Sounds nice too.
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