Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Fun, aren't they? Some people relate the little engines as being slugs until they build something like this. I have more fun with my .12 monos than any of my other boats. They start easily and don't need much tuning once you've got them dialed in.
Here's a video of mine when it wasn't quite dialed-in yet: http://www.rcflix.com/photopost/show...500&ppuser=612

unclecrash

Hi Mike I have a couple questions for you.
1- Did you turn the head around on your .18 mine the water tube holes face the front of the boat.
2- curious how your servos are mounted I dont see screws or the tabs on the servos.
3- I cant tell but wondering what the ply is on top of the rudder servo. What is the little round blobs that look kind of like brass on the ply on top the servo. Thanks Dave

toyotatruckin

answer 1-my head is turned to the back right of the boat
answer 2/3- Throttle servo is a hitec hs-81 ears ground off two small wood blocks glued to the bottom of the radio box to help hold in position then hot glued in place its in the throttle side corner of the box. Rudder servo is a jr metal gear laying on its side in a u shaped piece of hard plastic mounted to the bottom of the box it came with the boat and the ears are removed from it also hot glued in and the ply on top is to help hold it in place, the little brass looking blobs on top are little brass screws.. lol.....my servos will not move unless you remove them...all screws nuts and bolts on this critter are eather brass or SS no rusting going on here!! Ill try to get some pics for you..

toyotatruckin

here you go hope this helps

unclecrash

Thanks for the pics Mike Sorry to call the screws blobs but couldn,t make them out in the one pic Nice setup Is receiver on front velcro and bat go on side wall?

toyotatruckin

yep on placement..

new info on running this little power house is a trick to get set-up right tiny adjustments have a BIG impact on the running of this little critter on to prop info after running today with the p215 this sucker is still wanting more prop and I havent even leaned out the engine all the way yet!
I am going to try to stay in the same diameter range as the p215, "d=1.60" p=2.5" just Up the pitch some and this is what I have come up with for props to order and test
octura
X642 d=1.65" p=2.640"
V937/3 d=1.48 p=2.812"
V940/3 d=1.57" p=2.983"
I know the last two are "hydro" props but they have a bigger pitch with out going to big in size, what would the pros and cons be of running one of these 3 blades on a mono....Just would like to know before I put the order in so I can have them worked over by next weekend

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I've got a couple of V-937/3's but was never brave enough to try them on my monos are they are supposed to be lifting props. If you could rework the props to remove the lift they could be made to haul the mail. The high pitch of them also contributes to the paddlewheeling effect which could make the boat hard to handle in corners.
I wished that you lived closer so that you could tap into my prop box!

toyotatruckin

oh me to its nice to borrow to try than buy work and find out oops didnt work or isnt gonna work..thats why my 535 is on ebay right now.... On corners left forget it, have to throttle down, But right this sucker looks like a tiny seaducer on a tight rail. and feels that way to Ive never run anything in RC that ran a corner this good the straights are ok just being this small with the power it has its being a real _____ to dial in... LOL but I still need more speed!!! with how it is now im guessing its hitting around 40mph with more to go my cat was gpsed at 36mph and this is one is faster than the cat could ever be...

Also how would you take the lift out of the prop with out taking the go from it?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not a prop pro so I don't really know how to do it. Maybe if you check out the links in the thread pinned to the top of this forum it may give you an idea of how it's done. If you geel that you need more pitch and keep the same diameter then you might want to look at the 1500, 1600, etc. series props and get the lift removed from them.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

ok so ive been thinking about what my future project will be and im definately gunna be building a Wild Thing. Could someone tell me what size to make my plans for a .12, .18, and .21 motor? i cant decide yet how big i wanna go but i would like to know how big the hulls need to be for each size motor. Thanks

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The original Wild Thing plans were for a .21 and were downsized for the .12-.18's.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

the plans i have say f48.613in x 15in. is this for a .21? how much would i have to downsize my plans for a .18 and for a .12?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Those aren't the original Wild Thing plans then. Check www.rcstore.com to see John Finch's plans. What you have is a similar plan for a gas version of this boat.

SteveC68

Small update on my progress. I have finished making all my trim tabs, turn fins, and mounting brackets. Now I'm about to drill the hole in the transom for the stuffing box tube. The plans say to offset the hole 1/16" to the starboard side and 3/16" up from the bottom of the hull. The problem is that the way it is drawn in the plans looks more like 3/8" up from the bottom. So what should it be?

My camera died so no new pics. I have one on order that should show up sometime this week. With any luck the boat will be finished by next weekend. [8D]

Steve

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

k thanks Ron

martno1fan

i think they are the gas mono plans that everyone is building ,you can build it any size you like.i think for an 18 nitro id go 24 inches long!!.just scale the plan down on your printer settings till you get the size you want.

toyotatruckin

the offset should help with propwalk and I have the hole in mine about 1/8 up from the bottom

SteveC68

Which size did you build Toyotatruckin? Mine is the .21 regular size. If I drill a hole 1/8" up from the bottom then I will end up drilling right through the bottom of the hull.

Steve

toyotatruckin

mine is a glass hull I like the stuffing tube close to the bottom you can adjust the strut up and down to find the sweet spot I wouldnt put it over 1/8" from the bottom inside of the hull, but thats me others may say different

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I just went downstairs and measured mine. The CL for the hole is 3/8" up from the bottom. If you want to you can offset the hole to the right 1/8" to compensate for torque.

toyotatruckin

Ron, is that a .21 hull or the .12 hull?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The .12 hull but it should be close for the .21 size also.

toyotatruckin

3/8 from the bottom seems a little high ron that is if your stinger was in the middle now if you measured from the middle and cut over 1/8" to the right that wouldnt be bad....but I have seen video of yours and it runs good so however its set-up it seems to work

martno1fan

if you read what he said he said 3/8 to the centre of the hole you drill!! that makes it 1/4 from the v so gives 1/8 clearance from the inside of the bottom sheet if its 1/8 thick more if its 1/16 sounds about perfect to me!!.

SteveC68

Well mine is a little less than 3/8" to the centerline from the bottom and somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" over. Tonight I plan on finishing the stuffing tube and cutting and soldering the flex shaft.