'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
12-16-2004, 10:11 AM
#51
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
The spruce strips lay on the bottom skin inside the radio box. They extend from front to rear (between the transom and the bulkhead that forms the front wall of the radio box). Their function is to stiffen the bottom at the stern of the boat. I don't recall how many strips the plans recommend but they are equally spaced across the width of each bottom skin starting from the keel to the chine. Two strips should be sufficient for each side. You may be able to see them in one of the photos of my boat.
Micro balloons are very very very small hollow balls of phenolic. You can find them in brown or tan color. Looks like powder as Ron said. Mixed with epoxy to a paste consistancy, it make a very strong and light material to make fillets. Not to be confused with cabasil which is ground fiber glass (powder consistancy) and used to stiffen epoxy and polyester resin. The cabasil mixture doesn't sand very well so don't get talked into using it for fairing in the side to bottom non trip. Micro balloons are typically available at any retail source that carries fiberglass cloth, polyester resin and epoxy. I think Prather Products also sells micro balloons.
I just took a break and looked at the picture of my boat. I used 3 spruce strips per side. Again, equally spaced between the keel and the chine.
Micro balloons are very very very small hollow balls of phenolic. You can find them in brown or tan color. Looks like powder as Ron said. Mixed with epoxy to a paste consistancy, it make a very strong and light material to make fillets. Not to be confused with cabasil which is ground fiber glass (powder consistancy) and used to stiffen epoxy and polyester resin. The cabasil mixture doesn't sand very well so don't get talked into using it for fairing in the side to bottom non trip. Micro balloons are typically available at any retail source that carries fiberglass cloth, polyester resin and epoxy. I think Prather Products also sells micro balloons.
I just took a break and looked at the picture of my boat. I used 3 spruce strips per side. Again, equally spaced between the keel and the chine.
12-16-2004, 11:38 AM
#52
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
John, The technical definition for the fillers in question:
FUMED SILICA - (sometimes used by trade name: CABOSIL) sometimes called "Thixo". All of the previous fillers increase the viscosity of resin, and if taken to a point of "No Flow", they will be a very solid mass. Cabosil can be added to get a consistency of Vaseline i.e. quite stiff, but will still flow. It is a THIXOTROPIC MATERIAL.
MILL FIBRE (NOT Cabosil) - A fine glass fibre powder. As with all glass fibre, it adds great strength both tensile and compressive. Used in a small percentage. It can promote adhesion to foam cores.
PHENOLIC MICRO BALLOONS - Generally more flexible filler. As its name implies the bubble is made from phenolic. It is particularly favoured by European manufacturers. Is more difficult to mix into the resin, as well as being expensive.
E SPHERES - Ceramic spheres very high compressive strength with good chemical resistance and low water absorption.
Q CELLS - One of the original micro spheres, bubbles or balloons. It has reasonable compression strength and is generally used to get bulk without adding too much weight. It also sands easily.
TALC - The oldest filler in common use - it is easy to use, very cheap as well as being very good in compression, but also very heavy.
None of these fillers have a particular ratio, you add to 'taste' or add what you require to get the job done. Cocktails are very much the Order of the Day. For instance, you may start with an epoxy resin/hardener base, add some Q Cells Micro to bulk out the mixture, some Mill Fibre to enhance strength and Cabosill to stop the mixture 'drooping' - "A Filler Cocktail".
Yer OK I'll shutup now.......[&o]
FUMED SILICA - (sometimes used by trade name: CABOSIL) sometimes called "Thixo". All of the previous fillers increase the viscosity of resin, and if taken to a point of "No Flow", they will be a very solid mass. Cabosil can be added to get a consistency of Vaseline i.e. quite stiff, but will still flow. It is a THIXOTROPIC MATERIAL.
MILL FIBRE (NOT Cabosil) - A fine glass fibre powder. As with all glass fibre, it adds great strength both tensile and compressive. Used in a small percentage. It can promote adhesion to foam cores.
PHENOLIC MICRO BALLOONS - Generally more flexible filler. As its name implies the bubble is made from phenolic. It is particularly favoured by European manufacturers. Is more difficult to mix into the resin, as well as being expensive.
E SPHERES - Ceramic spheres very high compressive strength with good chemical resistance and low water absorption.
Q CELLS - One of the original micro spheres, bubbles or balloons. It has reasonable compression strength and is generally used to get bulk without adding too much weight. It also sands easily.
TALC - The oldest filler in common use - it is easy to use, very cheap as well as being very good in compression, but also very heavy.
None of these fillers have a particular ratio, you add to 'taste' or add what you require to get the job done. Cocktails are very much the Order of the Day. For instance, you may start with an epoxy resin/hardener base, add some Q Cells Micro to bulk out the mixture, some Mill Fibre to enhance strength and Cabosill to stop the mixture 'drooping' - "A Filler Cocktail".
Yer OK I'll shutup now.......[&o]
12-17-2004, 09:02 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
I got my hull all glued together. It is worped like an inch though. I have it on the table with weights and am wetting it down right now. I'll post some pics later tonight or tomorrow.
12-18-2004, 10:38 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
I got my engine today. I have a question though. The pipe was used and the pressure fitting is in the wronge place(see pic) Is this going to affect the way the engine runs?
12-18-2004, 11:00 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
The only way it will effect the engine is by the fitting (being in the wrong place) not supplying the fuel tank with a constant pressure, Thats why you should put a nipple at the widest part of the pipe.(See my photo)
And blank off the existing one.
I have no idea if that pipe is suited to your engine.
And blank off the existing one.
I have no idea if that pipe is suited to your engine.
12-19-2004, 12:57 AM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
Not much construction on hull at this time, just doing mods to hardware, need lots of time to setup for construction
12-19-2004, 09:55 AM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
I've just glued my hull together and it is perfectly straight. I used lasers to check for straightness...Cool hey.....[8D]
For now it is straight, for tommorrow is another day.....and there are forced which we try but at times fail to control.
Will post photos when the epoxy has set....
I will be using carbon fibre for the reinforcement areas...[:-]
[8D]For now it is straight, for tommorrow is another day.....and there are forced which we try but at times fail to control.
Will post photos when the epoxy has set....
I will be using carbon fibre for the reinforcement areas...[:-]
12-20-2004, 09:38 AM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
John,
How's my 'Wild Thing looking ????[&:]
Got a little time last night to glue the hull and second bulkhead.
How's my 'Wild Thing looking ????[&:]
Got a little time last night to glue the hull and second bulkhead.
12-20-2004, 04:34 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
ok , not sure but , what kind of mount are you making there ? You should be putting in stringers . ( runs from fron to back . but NOT all the way to the front . )
Then glass them in place ( standard sizes are 4 , 5 and some 6 inch spreads .
Then adjusting the engine ( moving it either backwards or forwards ) for the proper CG would be simple and since the stringers run almost half the length of the hull , there is PLENTY of room for adjustment ( if needed ) ) Also , could have bought or made , simplier motor mounts .
Now , you COULD still use that extra piece in there for a stuffing tube support .
or for the radio box .... ( mind you , might be a bit heavier than normal , but at least , no one could say that there isn't ENOUGH strength ... )
Collet ? Without creating too much of an angle , try and run the flex as close to being straight as possible and I assume you are gonna have it exit out the bottom of the transom as close to the kiel as possible , correct ? Then of course , mount the engine as low as possible in the hull , without hindering or having the engine rub on something .
And just curious ... what is that black tar looking glue you used there ?
Then glass them in place ( standard sizes are 4 , 5 and some 6 inch spreads .
Then adjusting the engine ( moving it either backwards or forwards ) for the proper CG would be simple and since the stringers run almost half the length of the hull , there is PLENTY of room for adjustment ( if needed ) ) Also , could have bought or made , simplier motor mounts .
Now , you COULD still use that extra piece in there for a stuffing tube support .
or for the radio box .... ( mind you , might be a bit heavier than normal , but at least , no one could say that there isn't ENOUGH strength ... )Collet ? Without creating too much of an angle , try and run the flex as close to being straight as possible and I assume you are gonna have it exit out the bottom of the transom as close to the kiel as possible , correct ? Then of course , mount the engine as low as possible in the hull , without hindering or having the engine rub on something .
And just curious ... what is that black tar looking glue you used there ?
12-20-2004, 07:13 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
Well I'm glad to hear that you hull is straight. I almost got it all out of mine. Its been like 4 nights and now its getting really close. I still am a little scepical about the spruce strips though. Also, do the bulk heads go out even with the outsid of the hull or are they in a little so the spruce barly sticks out? Does the spruce go all the way to the front?[
] PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
Its been like 4 nights and now its getting really close. I still am a little scepical about the spruce strips though. Also, do the bulk heads go out even with the outsid of the hull or are they in a little so the spruce barly sticks out? Does the spruce go all the way to the front?[] PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
12-21-2004, 09:20 AM
#70
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
Ross, you have a good start. Now it's time to get the front bulkhead in place and get the mount rails installed. If you can assemble them with the engine mount clamped in place and get that all positioned properly and location marked, you can then remove the mount rails for drilling the engine mount bolt holes. Once that's done, glue in the mount rails. Use fiber glass cloth or your carbon fiber mat to reinforce all joints. I suggest laminating a piece of 1/32 or 1/16 ply to the back side of the front bulkhead so the mount rails butt against and are glued to plywood and not just balsa. Then consider what TERBObob suggested about stringers and reinforcement where the stuffing box penetrates the hull. Since you are building with 1/16" ply, the bottom stringers may be needed. Once the mount rails are secured and cured, check the bottom for flex. If you find that it flexes a lot then use the stringers to stiffen it. My guess is that the mount rails will stiffen up the boat real well. One last precaution. Make sure you leave enough room for the starting belt under the flywheel when you position the engine.
12-21-2004, 02:31 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
Well I ripped my front bulkhead out. It was really twisted and wouldn't go back. I am trying some stuff now to get it straight. But, will you still post the pic of the spruce strips.
[
12-21-2004, 11:44 PM
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RE: 'Wild Thing' Construction Pictures
Well, nevermind about the twist. My hull is now back in two pieces.[:-] Yeah, I ripped it apart and starting over[&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o][&o]
