TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Looks good so far ....
And about any crystal ...
There might be some that will disagree , but . as long as the freq is right ( meaning like 75 , verses 72 ... the 72 will NOT work in a 75 and vice versa )
If the Tx and Rx are meant for say 40 mhz , then the crystals HAVE to be 40 mhz and of course the numbers following the dot ( period ) also have to be matched .
for example ... say you have a transmitter that runs 40 mhz and your receiver is for 72 mhz ... you can use these together . They simply will not work .
For the 40 mhz transmitter , you will need a 40 mhz receiver .
Now , for the crystals .
For the transmitter that is say , running 40 mhz and you have the receiver that is running 40 mhz . Now , the cyrstals , one has to be a TX crystal ( for the transmitter of course ) and one has to be a RX , which is for the receiver .
Now , the numbers following the 40 have to match also .
For example ...
40 . 275

BOTH numbers HAVE to be the same for the transmitter to get its signal to the receiver and the receiver has to have the same number so it can receive the signal .
Now , you've gotta excuse my ignorance of other countries frequencies and not sure if those channels numbers I just thrown out are legit or not , but they were only used as an example .

Now , if I confused you , here are some more examples

40.125 transmitter crystal has to have the same number for the receiver and so goes it for any of the channels in the 40. mhz band .

Now , you ALSO have to make sure that you do NOT use FM in and AM radio . Will not work ( meaning the crystals that is , and also the same with the TX and RX .. they HAVE to be the same . MEaning , you can no use a FM receiver with an AM transmitter , or vice versa .
What ever the transmitter is , the receiver has to be the same ... ( now to confuse you some more ... ) SO does the crystals .... meaning , you can not use FM crystals in an AM setup , or vice versa .
Now , hopefully , I did not confuse the grey matter area too much ...
( believe me , when first learning ... theres a LOT to know [&o] )

And ... in case this came into mind .... NO radio gear transmitts beyond 750 milliwatts of output power ( Legal ones anyway that have not been peaked out ) ... . So what does this mean ? That a Futaba is no better in the range/distance catagory than say a JR or Hitec .
Am ... a bit more noise tolerance than FM .
Fm filters a little better than AM which tends to make folks say that their transmitters transmitts further than an AM . NOT TRUE ... it only appears that way , because it again , filters thru the noise better than AM ( kinda like your AM FM music radio .... in a sense )

Any questions , please do NOT hesitate ... ( would rather help you understand , then leave you guessing or getting wrong info )

MiniMental

i have a 35mhz tx and a 40 mhz rx, if i put a 40mhz xtal in the tx (same as the rx bt tx) would it work, if not, how can i mod it to work without spending money on a new system

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Ok , no ... it will NOT work and as far as modding it ? It can be done , but the price would cost you more than a decent used receiver would that would match the one you have ( 35 mhz )

check out the EBAY auctions and also here on RCU ... or maybe someone here has an extra that they might even swap you out for the 40 mhz receiver that you have , then this way , it'll only cost you shipping costs .

MiniMental

its illegal to use 35mhz for surface, its only legal to use it for flying. but, i will use that until i can afford a to get it converted, i just wont be able to compete in races

MiniMental

Ron or TB,

How Fast would you GUESS an A:- .46 O.S. MAX would push my hull, or B:- A .21 O.S. would push it, i gather that the .46 would be faster, ron guessed that it would push my hull at 50+

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

There are LOTS of things to consider when "guesstamating" a speed of a hull .
I think that if you "work" on it , you will more than likely see 50'ish , but at first , realistically , in the 40's at first . ( proper prop , hardware setup , minimal amount of drag as possible , light as possible hull . tuned pipe .... etc , etc , etc ... )

MiniMental

kk, do i have to use a flex drive with a surface drive setup, or can i use any, which would you recommend, the octura setup (inc flex drv) off offshoreelectrics or the other one (above the octura one)???

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

I would definately go with a flex drive rather than a solid shaft ..... ( solid shaft , you have NO option of angling the prop as needed . )
Also FTR - OCTURA is kinda "pricey" ( means expensive )
Get yourself a 3/16 flex shaft with a stub shaft already welded on and then the proper collet for the engine . Then you will need a 1/4 or 3/16 inch strut ( meaning the size shaft it can accept . either size cause you can get the oversized teflon or oilites for the 1/4 down to 3/16 , or you can simply just get the 3/16 sized ones )
For a stuffing tube , I would suggest either a teflon one or a brake liner ( found at your local auto parts store . Its the tube that the brake fluid flows thru . ) BOTH work wonders . Some use brass , but I , myself have a hard time finding that in the right size where I live - boonies in Iowa )

MiniMental

nah, i will just buy the complete octura setup from off shore electrics, only £40. that come with an 'assembled flex cable to shaft', but if i get the inline one, i'll have t make a standoff bracket out of some 2mm sheet alluminium.

also i am confused, when i bought my engine, it gave me a list of thing i needed for it, and a list of optional things. my engine is 7.5cc, why did it tell me to get either, a prather 11cc tuned pipe, or a Macs 11cc tuned pipe???
I am going to go with the macs as it is cheaper but 11cc or 7.5cc, this really screwed with my head. just couldnt see the logic in putting a pipe made for 11cc on a 7.5cc engine.

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

LOL ...
Sometimes , using a pipe made for another engine works just as good/better than the one that SHOULD be used ....

They also might have told you that , since the 40 tune pipe might not fit ( length wise ) out the back , which would leave that nice oily slimy nitro residue on the INSIDE of your hull .
because , just like the tuned pipe , the header length is JUST as important . Meaning ,- if the header is too long , too short , to big ( diameter ) , it throws the gain from the usage of the pipe , either off , or could even be worthless ( meaning no gain ) Same as stinger length , this too , makes a BIG difference , as does stinger diameter .
Confusing > You betcha ! ! ! And if that ain't enough to throw your mind in a whirlwind ... heres one more to add to the total chaotic state of confusion ...
The amount of , and angles of bends in the tuned pipes header ALSO makes the final effect change .... hummmm .... kinda makes you wonder if its worth it , huh ???
But , all in all , yes , it is .

MiniMental

i will get the 11cc Macs pipe then,

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

You also might want to measure , since you said MACS pipe ... ( and not sure if you mean , muffled pipe or tuned pipe , since there IS a big difference )
but , all in all , measure the lenght from engine exhaust manifold to the transom , then check the length sizes of each pipe and see if thats the reason they want you to use a pipe for a 60 .

MiniMental

well would you recommend the prather pipe or the MACS pipe,

prather pipe = [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDR47]Prather Pipe[/link]
MACS Pipe = [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZ578]MACS Pipe[/link]
My Engine Is = [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBY94&P=0]My Engine[/link]

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

I'd go with the MACS and also .... did you get your wrap header yet ? ( also need one of those for that motor )

MiniMental

i only got the flywheel and engine so far. by 'wrap' header do you mean the one which is listed in the accessories needed??

MiniMental

This is my starter box, hehehehe, with my buggy tx, and my boat tx. my boat tx is my spare 6ch, and my buggy is the black 2ch

MiniMental

Just Wondering, it doesnt matter which side of the hull i mount my tuned pipe on...does it???

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

No , but usually the header will only allow one side , which would be the right side ( passenger side vehicle over there )
Not sure , but usually , if you can mount it the other direction , something like the carb settings , will more than likely be in the way and you don"t want that ...
Since each day , the settings will be slightly different ( for peak/optimum performance ) and you'll have to adjust that needle setting .
One more thing .... ( hey , nothing wrong with the field box , as long as it has all needed . Shoot , I use the same one for my cars , boats AND planes )
You might want to try and get a pistol style TX .... I myself was SOOOOOO against them for the LONGEST time , but then after I got one and used it a couple of times , I'll tell ya ... theres NOTHING like it for cars and boats .... SOOOOO much better and easier .
Also , the TQ3 Tx and Rx are VERY good ( MUCH better than I ever expected ) and I use them regularly on cars and boats .... without ANY problems . Mind you , I do NOT use them crappy servos for the cars though .... I use either HITEC , or FUTABA 's . )
High torque for rudder and standard , or sub for throttle .

MiniMental

nah, i'll stick with that, it has 3 2300mAh 9.6v NimH batts, and its comfortable, i hate pistol tx's, dunno why, just seem really easy for me to break, thats why i got a 2 stick radio for my buggy, over a pistol.i had a pistol, and kept snappin the aerial, and i cant find one from uk that is cheap, (our frequencies are different to US, so i have to buy from UK.

I just hate pistol radios. I am quite happy with my trusty ol' 2 stick
Also, i am used to 2 stick, i can actually win organised buggy races wiv em

MiniMental

how hard is it to belt start an engine??? i am gonna run 40% nitro as its strangley the cheapest where i live, and i am gonna run a high pitch prop, which octura prop would you peeps suggest??? from my point of view if i burn out my piston and cylinder, i'll just have to replace them!

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Belt startting is not hard at all as long as you have a HIGH torqued starter ... otherwise , if you use one that is NOT powerful enough , you WILL know it in a HEARTBEAT ...

props ???? not sure of your selection there , but , you ARE gonna balance and sharpen it , right ??? ( BEFORE running it , otherwise , vibration in the engine , AND in the strut . BAD news .

Props ... anywhere from a 230 up to a 240 , but no larger .... ( Octura brand )
Always start larger , that way , you will NOT over rev your engine AND you can ALWAYS cut the diameter and pitch as needed .

MiniMental

well, i have a 12v POWER/\TORQUE Starter, so that should be powerful enough (it broke my wrist when i press the button and grabbed the end!!!i know that was stupid, but, ahhh well, i am me LMAO [8D] ) and i plan on buying a readily sharpened and balanced octura prop

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

>>>>>>

I guess if it broke your wrist , then yup .... it sure must be strong enough ...

FTR - the ones I am referring to , go for around $50.00 ( US ) new .... whereas the others are cheaper ( $29.00 and such )

And , good deal about the prop .... unless you've done some , a LOT of times , folks end up getting hamburger for fingers due to the sharpening ... ( )
Also , remember that when you DO get it , ITS SHARP ! ! ! ( honestly , its not funny slicing your finger wide open on one ... ask me how I know .[&o] )

MiniMental

'HOW DO YOU KNOW!!!!!!!' lmao. Were you reffering to an Octura 240?? i cant find them anywhere.

Are RAM 62 fail safes an good??

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

sorry ... PRATHER props are what I listed ....
OCTURA would be :

from X645 x548 x450 x450/3 ( this means three blades )
x452 x452/3 x440 ( just to name a few ... )

They go from small to large in size listed ...