teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

Ran the boat today, Just back from vacation.
The issue of water in the hull is no longer a issue. All the suggestions on here have worked wonders. After sitting on a emty tank in the middle of the lake for more than a 1/2 hour (lost tenniss ball,must bring a spare) it had less than a spoonfull of water in it..
Question on the stock prop, With a solid throttle and a good toss it gets on plane very well and stays running until im done.
If at all I let off the throttle it will cavitate and hardly move but the engine runs great.Will the Y535 change this ?? The stock prop sucks!!!

teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

A thought on the radio box cover, just use tape, the clear duct tape works real good and holds water out.
your water outlet can be used without the nut just seal it on wirh a dab of shoe goo or fish tank sealant..[img][/img]

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

OK first off id like to thank boataddic for all the great help!
I had fun doing all this to it and took my time. First I made the stand like addic (easy). Then I did the push rod seals. The stock one in the rear was hard and ready to come off. So I installed the Du-bro (LXD589) I had to take the rudder assembly off to have room to get the seal on. The hole had to be reamed out (hobby knife) to get it to fit. The Bru-Line (LX9154)seal didn’t work here, the plate wouldn’t clear the rudder. So I used it for the throttle push rod. I used clear silicone on both. Then I put the switch w/ the charging jack in (LXJ778) and I had to move the water inlet hose (in pic) under the switch. Now you can charge the battery w/out taking the lid off. I put a JR RS300 receiver w/ a venom fail safe together w/ 2 sided servo tape and zip tied them in a balloon. I got a Ofna 5cell 1100hump pack (2 on top 3 on bottom) and zip tied it in a balloon also. I made the shroud around the exhaust ( a heating and air place gave me a piece). The lid was hard but, worth it! I used a ¼” piece of plexi-glass, cut it to cover the entire radio box, then I recessed the part that drops down in the radio box so it would clear the pipe and put the same seal that I used in the cowl around the edge. Then I used the same galvanized metal that I used around the pipe and cut 2 strips. The i JB welded 2 nuts to each strip. Then shoo goo the 2 strips to the under side of the lip. Now you can just take the 4 screws out and the lid is off. IMHO better than using tape. All I have left is to sharpen my prop and balance it and im ready to break it in! Hope these pics help you in your project.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

i got some micro balloons and i was going to use it in the bottom but they must have used more this time around . i pushed on the bottom and it didnt have hardly any flex. and the cowl is srtong also the used what looks like drywall tape (the net type) and its really tough.

boataddict

ZZ,

I am happy to see that my post was of help but I have to commend you on the great job you did on your boat especially on the radio box cover and the turbine. You have the neatest setup I have seen for the radio cover on the Bud.

I have a few questions for you:

If it’s not too much trouble, can you post a pic of the radio box lid and a close up of how you mounted the 2 nuts to the galvanized metal strips? I want to try this on my Bud.

The galvanized metal you got from the heating place, is it something that can be purchased in a small sheet/quantity at a hardware store?

How did you secure the shroud (turbine cover) around the tuned pipe?


I notice you have a sponge in the cowl to keep the water from coming in. I personally never had much water get in through the vents to cause much of an issue. It only happened to me once when I ran the Bud in 10 – 20 mph gust winds. My only concern is the tape behind the sponge. From the picture the tape looks like it goes all the way around the back to the other side of the cowl. I believe this may restrict air flow and defeat the purpose of the air vent imho.

Even though the engine is water cooled, it still needs air to flow over the engine to help dissipate heat from the engine and to allow the engine to breathe. If the engine stalls after you put the cowl on I would remove the tape around the sponge and maybe CA it to the sides of the cowl instead of taping it. I am not trying to “knock” your mod but just don’t want to see you have more problems than you should.

Good luck breaking her in.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

the tape on the cowl is only on both ends not the middle. so the air will go through. i taped it w/ clear duct tape so if it gets messed up i can clean it or use a diff piece. as for the turbine cover i folded it under the turbine and made a point down to the bolt hole and drilled a hole to secure it in place. then where it makes the bend i used some silicone so the water couldnt get past that point. i was just at Menards and they have small sheets of the metal. any of the heating and air places have a bin in the back that they put their scraps in. ill post some pics and give you more details on the lid in just a min.

boataddict

The transparent tape made it hard for me to see on the sponge. I adjusted my monitors contrast and now see where the tape stops. In that case you should be fine.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

the dimensions of the lid are -5 1/4" long 3 1/4" on the wide end and 3" wide on the other with a 3/8" recessed lip around the entire edge. the strips are 5" long and 3/8" wide. i made the lid to fit first then drilled the holes , make them a little bigger than the bolts, then hold the plates underneath to mark them then drill them. i marked a arrow pointing to the inside and R&L so i knew which one goes where. there will be a burr on the one side so dremmel it off and lay the nut on and JB weld it on. i put the screw on the nut so you know its centered. when its dry then just shoo goo them underneath. its a nice touch. the one screw had to be back further so it would miss the new switch. and the screw the holds the plug down for charging stuck up too high so i used a allen insert.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

i left the one pic larger so you can really see it

boataddict

ZZ,

Great pics. I like this mod a lot. I will get the parts and try it out soon.


Thanks again for posting.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

ditto man - you helped me more than you know! i cant wait to make some wakes what fuel did you break yours in with?

boataddict

I also have the break-in details in my first post.


I broke mine in with

Trinity Break In Fuel 20% Quart
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUU69&P=7


Then used :

Trinity Monster Brew 20% Quart
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGPG9&P=7


Currently using Wildcat because of the higher 18% Oil content. I buy the Gallon bottle for about 22$ at the LHS.

Wildcat Eliminator Plus Car 20%N 18%O Quart
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAKD8&P=ML


Usually when I go to the park to run the boats I have a bunch of friends with their kids hanging out but they don't really like the smell of the exhaust so I thought it would be kool to try some scented fuel additive. I know its just a gimmick but I think the kids might like it. I bought cotton candy but I haven't tried it out yet. I heard it works well and will not affect the engine performance.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&C=PFE&V=PAR

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

ya i keep going back to read that post. you would think i would have known that was in there. that scented stuff really does work. i raced on a indoor track and some guys used it and you could really tell it was in their fuel. the prob was not everyone used it. but i bet you will outside.

pilotrc2002

My Feedback: (15)

hey guy and gals
go to this link and let me know something
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=92980

boataddict

Did you ever get the video posted?

electricstorm

Horray! I just got my miss bud. I have started on the upgrades already but I have a question. I got the new upgraded version, and I can't see how you are supposed to add the water outlet. how do you get into it? also, there is a hole with a plug in it where the autobailer is supposed to go. can I get rid of it so I can get the bailer in it?

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

i have the water outlet as well. i didnt change it for the simple fact you would have to tear your boat apart to get to it. someone mentioned using silicone to mount it but ten you would have the chance of it leaking with out the nut on the back side. WATER FINDS ITS WAY ALWAYS! and the tube is a solid one not the rubber one you need for that outlet. on the NEW bud i dont see ant reason for changing it. even if you do want the bling factor your not gonna see it at 30mph. and that plug is so you can dump the water out of the hull if their is any. i heard horror stories about the autosinker and if you do the upgrades that me and boataddict did then you shouldnt need the bailer. it just take a bit of moss or even a blade of grass dirt ect to make the bailer not work and sink your boat in a hurry. just run it w/out the bailer first and see if you would even need it. the new bud is a better design and doesnt need the micro balloons as well. i bought them but the new one is stiffened and doesnt need it.

electricstorm

ok, heres another question. since the radio box is totaly sealed off, how would the water get out by itself if it gets in. I don't want any water to build up in it and ruin the electronics.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

seal it good w/ the trans duct tape and no water should get in. i put all my stuff in balloons and zip tied them. then i even put a strip of foam under the batt and reciever to soak up the water before it does get to them if something happened. the rear seal is the most important to change IMO. mine was hard and had something that looked like super glue on it and was even pulling the paint off. or you could even make a lid like i did? i just didnt like the idea of the stock one.[:@]

t3kops

Has anyone purchased the TigerDrive Starter for the Miss Bud? It looks like you need the 6mm version, but I just want to check with anyone who has gone down this road before.

Thanks
t3k

thunderboat

My Feedback: (1)

If one does all the necessary steps as suggested sealing the cowling and on the screw heads, and replacing the boots, I believe putting on a carb air filter would chance air restrictions causing more of a problem than worrying about water.

I also use vaseline on the pushrods next to the boot to make sure water keeps out. Once I corrected the water issues, running my boat for two months now seems my problems are few. I have noticed some cracking here and there due to vibration but I have addressed this with either epoxy or automotive fire red enamel paint.

As my normal after run I use Gel-Gloss, used for ceramic or fibreglass. One can get this at Home Depot. I have used this stuff on my fiberglass fishing boat for years. It works great and is gentle to the surface being a one step cleaner and polish.

After every other day of running I pull the shaft from the stuffing box and add more grease. I use the same water proof blue silicone water proof grease I use for my big fishing boat and trailer. It keeps the water out and appears to work fine.

Running my boat is for pleasure and take pride in her when I am at the lake. She sure draws a crowd. And is really a gem when skimming on top of the water.

I have bought replacement parts including decals which is assuring. Pro-boat should be complemented.

I am just starting to try metal props because the dirty water that I am running in is taking its toll on the plastic props.

Good job on this article

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

t3k-
i had to call sullivan products that makes the tiger drive to get a for sure answer on this----the S689 is the one you want to use and you have to shim it w/ a .020 shim so the gears work ok. tower has them really cheap.

t3kops

zzman,
Thanks for the info... Where did you get the .020 shim? Part number etc... I dont know what the ID and OD of the shim should be. I ordered my miss bud last night and want to have everything here for when she arrives. Also, what are you using to drive the wand? I was looking at the DuraTrax Kwik-Pit Super Starter and hoping to adapt the sullivan wand to fit into it.

Thanks again!
t3k

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

i was just going to make a gasket to fit under the back plate of the quick start. .020 isnt much it just keeps the gears from binding. she didnt have a part # . its the same size as the tiger drive. tower has the shaft as well i was just going to use my dewalt drill. the .15 doesnt need much to turn it over and should start fine.