Drmeff

I would contact TLR about all that slop, that seem pretty excessive! The water pickup is plenty big, mine shoots out water a good foot when going flat out and I barely have the pickup in the water!

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

Flipped and flooded my boat at least 3 times today jumping the wake from my fishing boat. Ran a bunch of afterrun oil through the carb turned it clean and it ran every time again. Not getting hte speed I want out of it though. My fishing boat at 25 mph was beating it...?? It is tuned pretty good to. Could be a little more lean but only has 7 tanks through it.

Raylon

Can someone give me the correct part number for the flex shafts from Aeromarine. I need to order some but not sure on which to get. Or from any other trusted stores would also be welcome.

Toycollector

Maybe that should be can anyone tell of the part number for the shaft at a place that actually has them

These things seem to be back ordered all over.

I have a friend who has been trying to get a shaft for his shockwave for over three weeks and every time he thinks he found one there gone.

bladett

yo people, good thread here with lots of helpfull info for the tc31. I'm however looking to change the engine on my tc. So i am asking which engine would fit the tc and how hard would the mods be to put it in.

Hesco Racing

So we had or first official junior tunnel (tc31 and F1 3.5) race on Saturday and what a day. The water was flt as a mirror and we good realy get up and go. Arrie showed me the way around the course at first but in the 3rd heat I managed to beat him. Dominic had his F1 3.5 but it had stearing problems. But when it goes its fast. I hope this class is going to grow as big as our F1 7.5. 9 Boats all racing for bouy 1 is quite spectacular. I am glad to say that the mod on the shaft to a 1/4" shaft I did works perfectly. I'll post pictures next time. Theirs no way this boat is going to turn off this shaft.

Toycollector

please dont forget the pics on the shaft mods!!

wave waker

finally my tc31 in the painting process,,after removing all the stuff inside i decided that i'll replace the radio box,,thinkin' of making a very low profile radio box,in this way i'l have more room for the fuel tank and making the cg more aft and lower,,i'm expecting a better performance particularly in high speed turns,,,no pics yet..

Hesco Racing

Hi Guys

Herewith the pictures as I promised. The shaft is a 1/4" flex shaft from a gas weedeater. It measures about Ø6.1mm and fits the brass tube perfect without the teflon liner. The adpater is made from brass and drill then reamed 3/16" one side and 1/4" the other. The whole brass unit is 25mm long. 13mm for the flex shaft and rest for the original shaft wich were cut down to length. I machined a flat were the 3mm grub screws locate. I soldered the shaft into the adapter after making sure that all the lubricant had been cleaned out.

wave waker

nice initiative and mod there[sm=thumbup.gif]

two things i saw, 1 is, this is heavy duty and for sure it's a lot better than stock, takes time to break it, on the other hand it's heavy to spin for a nitro engine.

Hesco Racing

Granted the shaft is slightly heavier, but the reduced friction over the teflon liner more than compinsates for it. In actual fact I'd say my boat is faster and more responsive with the new shaft. As a matter of interest we use to run 1/4" shaft in our .21 FSRV boats many years ago, now their all rigid shaft drive because the boats has increased in length and you can now get the right shaft angle.

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

Nice mod man. That is what this hobby is all about. Most of the fun I have in this hobby is improving on the original design. Sometimes I think RC manufacturers manufacture junk on purpose for 2 reasons. 1, make sure there junk breaks so we have to buy parts. 2, so many people like to tinker so why make it bullet proof.

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone had the problem with the carb freezing up on them between runs? Mine does it all the time....I even oil the carb slide after a run and it still seizes. A pair of needle nose pliers will get it back operational but I'd like to completely remedy the problem. Now, I do run in saltwater and I maintain for that, but this problem is bugging me....corrosion x doesn't seem to keep it from seizing either. Any thoughts?

Also, my flywheel spins freely on the driveshaft....anyone know how to tighten it up?

Toycollector

Salt water will make things that much more "fun", and lubing everything up is a must (like your doing etc) , but some things will likely be a problem anyhow since its obvious the materials used were not designed for salt water.

I run mostly in salt water too, and have had the problem with the carb sticking, but so far its rare, and like you have found just pursuading it a little solves the problem. What concerns me some is just which of the parts in this thing will give out first from the introduction of the corrosion producing salt.

Sure I lube everything up really well, and wash it down after every use (use lots of fresh water too lol), and then lube it up all over again, but I know from experience with full size boats that any materials prone to rust (those that are not SS) will eventually rust. Its seemingly just part of the game when running in salt water, and something I have learned to deal with, and also accept (accept being the real hard part of it lol).

Now as far as the carb is concerned I am not 100% sure if the salt is the problem, or just somehow increases it as mine stuck before it ever hit the water (fresh or salt). What I have found from just inspecting things is that the carb is far from a precision part, and though its loose tolerances would make you think it shouldnt be effected by salt all that much I guess it could, but still think the tolerances are a bigger part of what causes it.

Curious what other salt water related problems you may know of or have had yourself.

Hesco Racing

fun4ej

The only way I found to tighten the flywheel is to remove the glowplug, then take a cable tie and cut off the inserting taper point. Now carefully insert the cable tie through the glowplug hole to form a spacer between the piston and the head. Becareful not to insert the cable tie too deep it may go into one of the ports and be sheard off. (Motor stripping might then be the order of the day). You might find that the cable tie is to thin and that the piston still moves past TDC, so just dubble up on the cable tie.

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

Yea, thats what I figured....securing the piston in place to get leverage.

Thanks!

Hesco Racing

For those whom are interrested.

as you can see I am from RSA and model boat racing here is groing by the day. We use to only race FSRV as per Naviga rules but have realised that their is other forms of racing in the world. 3 Years ago we started racing F1 7.5cc on the same course as the FRSV but in the opposite direction. We do a le-mans type start were all boats are on the jetty dead when the siren goes for the race. We have 11 boats racing all at once. We started this month to race TC31 with F1 3.5cc. We feel that this class will grow just as strong as the F1 7.5cc as we are keeping this class stock. Only mods is prop and placement off fuel tanks. The FSRV classes are also well represented in 3.5cc, 7.5cc and 15cc monohulls.

Scott351

My Feedback: (20)

Has anyone used silicone fuel tubing as a
water-cooling jacket around the exhaust
manifold? I know it won't transfer heat as
well as brass or aluminum, but will it melt?


Thanks,
Scott

--
ThunderCat 31; Super Hawaii; SP3 Extreme;
OB4 Int'l; Nitro OB4; Impulse; XXX-NT; MBX-XR;
Sting

Hesco Racing

How do you intend fixing the silicone to the header as silicone sticks to nothing

Arrie

The silicone pipe will only last about 10 runs and then become rock hard and crack, I think it wioll be a wast of time.

Arrie

We also found removing all shims from the motor will give you more performance, sorry Kobus had to tell the others.

Scott351

My Feedback: (20)

Hesco: I was going to hold the fuel tubing in place
by keeping it pulled tight.

Arrie: That's the type of info I was looking for since
I didn't know how silicone would react over time...
Thanks.


Scott

Hesco Racing

Ja you plank

Know I wont beat you any more Arrie and at least I can spell your name right. Try a C next time. But wait have I told you all the go faster trick. Now that is what you should be wondering.

Scott351 if you go to page 55 of this thread you would see the mod that I have done to my boat as well as Arrie's. It is a cooling jacket on the manifold and the tune pipe. This mod has reduced the manifold temp by at least 1/2. It is now possible to play with the pipe hole size to get the optimum motor temp.

Cobus
Hope all your boats stay upright

1badmaro

Well me and my son are about to take the TC for its 1st run!!!!!

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

How did the maiden voyage go? My boat is perfection right now. Flawless operating piece of floating craft she is.