rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

Check this out,
Scroll to the bottom all the way down and look at the third item up.(Tuned Pipe After Coolers) Will most likely work excellent in cooling your header for increased performance. Why not put 2 on ? Easy mod...
The bottom item, "Blow Plug" could be handy as well. No more paper towel

http://www.niagaramarinehobbies.com/...essories_1.htm

1badmaro

It went awesome boat ran great!! Put 3 tanks through it half way through the 3rd tank we started to do short WOT runs. I must say I was very impressed at the speed although we did not hold it at WOT for no more than 3or4 sec at a time. Can't wait to work on the tune so we can see what it can do. I just want to thank all who posted the good advice in this thread. It made me and my sons first time out with the boat trouble free.

super_mike

Inserting a small peice of nice soft rope would be my choice of objects i would put between my piston and head... when u get the fit u like cut the excess off ,leave some extra hangin out so u can just pull it back out easy every time..keep it in your boat box and use it over and over..or buy a bolt and thread it in the glow plug hole and use it as a positive stop..i use the rope deal

gooycheese

A glow plug is a 1/4-32 thread its not an easy bolt to find? I put a rag over engine when I run after run thru it. Ok now I have a question I am running a new pipe and my boat seams to be running really well, It just doesn't seam to totally hit the pipe. Now my new pipe and stock pipe where both about 9 1/2-10" (glow to the fat of the pipe) which does seam a little long too me. My new pipe is an ops3280 which is a little smaller in diameter at the fat of the pipe. I am using a 40% synthetic castor blend of fuel now, I do have some 60% but I am guessing this will be a little too much for this sport engine? Once I find the correct pipe length I will be adding a muffler which I will be getting Sunday at our club race. Is there any suggestions on Pipe length for a dynamite .32 with an ops3280 pipe?


Thanks Paul

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

40 and 65% is pert high noitro content there.
Alan from Weston UK (aircraft pipe manufacturer) is getting higher rpm's and better temps using 10% nitro with 7.5% oil. Much longer run times as well. This is from a discussion we just had about them making a custompipe for one of my heli's. The rpm's with the Curtis YoungBlood fuel (30%) is a grand less than Weston UK's 10%N 7.5%Oil pro synth fuel and their race fuel... HuH
Why would it not be the same with marine engines ?

gooycheese

Marine engine's unlike most other engines run full speed, at least in a race scenario its run as fast as you can all out. 10% nitro I don't think will work in alot of marine engines, most race boats are running 40% or more (I am not saying this boat is a race boat but I want it as fast as it can be). And nitro % for heli vs marine I have no idea ............ sorry


Paul

Arrie

Why higher nitro is a waste of time in a heli is cause the helli motor is more torque oriantaded than rpm and the marine motors need the high nitro to get the higher rpm. If you take a OS 50 hyper motor it runs at about 18000 rpm and the marine motors at 33000 rpm. So the high nitro.

On a 30 size heli, they just dont fly on 5 or 10 % nitro ( motor runs to hot) they want at least 15 - 20 % nitro. On a 90 size, any thing higher than 20% is a waist.

Toycollector

Your correct its not nearly as popular as the 1/4-20 thread size, but if you guys need them just let me know as I work for an industrial parts distributor who sells hardware and should be able to get them without any problem.

Personally I would feel more comfortable using something more flexible and forgiving inside my cyl like the rope, plastic tie, or even a piece of tubing or maybe a plastic bolt, but thats up to you etc.


I think I touched on this earlier but the length of the pipe and especially the size of the chamber or fat section greatly effect the powerband of the engine. From memory a longer smaller chamber will produce increases in low to mid range rpm power, and a larger fatter one will reduce lower rpm power and greatly increase top rpm power, and even rpms.

Of course all of this is very much related to enging porting, and to gain the most in the area you want it etc you need to make sure the ports in the engine are working with you and not against you etc.

I am not a small engine builder, but I know from building some serious atv engines that the right pipe makes all the difference, and though normally I was setting those engines up to bring down the power band to increase low to mid range (making them much more ridable etc) while trying not to lose any more top rpm range power (sort of the opposite of what you might want in a RC boat ) and they didnt use nitro for fuel it would seem to make sense that the basics should still apply.

What may help figure out the problem would be to talk with someone who does porting on these things. I had found a wealth of info from doing this on the larger engines, and it saved me plenty of trial and error time. If their making those minute changes inside the cyl and piston that make such a large difference in power then they should be able to help you with changes in pipe design as well.

Good luck and have fun as its really interesting how these little things do make such a difference.

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

I haven't come across any other problems with running in saltwater....as of yet....

My carb seizing problem has seemed to remedy itself...maybe the constant oiling has worked its way into the small parts finally.

One recurring problem I have is blown out exhaust couplers. I get maybe 2 tanks from one coupler. I have seen the mod Hesco has done with the NiagraMarine pipe coolers but I don't think my header and pipe are perfectly round...I'd have to get a new header and pipe for the after coolers. Right now, I am just running a cooling coil around the header.

Is anyone running a wet exhaust system on their TC?

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

copper coiling like Hesco used will work the same as the after coolers I would imagine. Just easier than having to bend the copper correctly around the header.

gooycheese

Well today put the connecting rod thru the side of the case. It wasnt a good day.


Paul


p.s. will have pics tomorrow.

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

NICE... Looking forward to seeing the destruction, lol

Hesco Racing

fun4ej

Those are not NiagraMarine coolers. I machined the cooling jackets myself from Ø25 Aluminium. Although the pipes are not perfectly round they are soft enough to be forcefully persuaded into a round hole. I will post pictures and sizes if anybody would like me too.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Damn, I missed it by a day!
While you're shooting pix of the carnage you might want to show off your muffler.
Sorry to hear that you sneezed your engine.

1badmaro

Well my TC is all broke in I want to grease the prop shaft I have Marine Grease i use on my wave runners can i use this? If not what grease do you guys use?

rozzibandit

My Feedback: (1)

That should work just fine. I personally use prather cable grease but cannot see why that won't suffice.
Don't be shy with it either. Fill-R-UP, that cable is a twisting like u know what in there...

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

Right on man, they look great! I wish I had the capability to machine parts like that.

I added a copper cooling coil behind my coupler and it seems to do the trick...I ran 3 tanks yesterday and the coupler held up. I also removed all but 1 head shim and I was blown away with the performance increase!

1badmaro

Cool thanks! Ill grease it and take all but one shim out of the motor. Does this make a big difference in the power the engine makes? and what make and % fuel are you guys running?

fun4ej

My Feedback: (1)

I noticed a decent increase in power and a big increase in compression....granted, It needed a re-tune after the removal of the shims, but once it got dialed in, I was giddy.

I run 30%...I have run O'Donnels and Blue Thunder...I can't say which is better, the motor likes them both.

losifiend

Can some one tell me what diameter the flex shaft of the TC is. I'm thinking about outfiting my BJ26 with the TC31 rudder system and prop bracket. My only concern is that the flex shaft on the BJ is smaller and I'll have to find a way to make it work with the TC prop bracket.

gooycheese

The TC31 has a 3/16 or a .187 flex shaft and prop shaft. You could get a .150 flex with a .187 prop shaft that would work. I have a .130 flex shaft with a .187 prop shaft on my little rigger. I am not sure what size your flex is but the do step them up at the prop shaft regardless.


Paul

Arrie

If the TC is to thick remember you can run the shaft with out the teflon liner it allows you to run a thicker shaft. Hesco is running hes with out teflon linner with thicker shaft and it works fine

losifiend

But if I run the tricker drive wire will I need to change out the collett? Will the .32 collett thread on to the .15 crank shaft? It doesnt seem like it would.[]

Arrie

No you wil have to drill the collet out bigger

gooycheese

Just get the collet that fits your engine thread probably a 5mm to a 3/16 flex or like I said before use the stock collet and get a stepped flex to prop shaft.