wave waker

sorry makes u confused....let's do this way, 2 things need to look at, color and shape of the element,,,

rich mixture will make the element color shinny and wet and no deformation of element then needs to lean the HSN,

lean mixture will make the element color looks dull and deformed or tangled needs to richen the HSN,,

perfect mixture the element is slightly dull with element pulled very slightly or no pull...

hope it's more clearer....

Toycollector

I have to agree on the novice and dangerous comment, but isnt that how novices advance to experts? (blowing things up and finding out how not to lol)

Anyhow from what I have been doing is just a combo of listening and smelling to tune, and then after those seem good on land I do them again while its out on the water at WOT but still pay attenion to the smoke trail.

For me setting a carb has always been multi step process, and that goes for just about all kinds of engines including this nitro one which I wasnt even sure *** was the right way. The instructions from proboat were helpful, but I am not sure if without any prior tuning experience they would be as helpful, and the average newbie would benefit from the info in this thread (heck I know I did).

To be honest I dont expect to be investing in rpm, or heat equipment since I wont be racing this etc, and the same goes for measuring the squish (or any other internals lol) but glad to see you mention this because it is a very important thing to get right if your wanting to maximize your power and a deffinate advantage if your racing etc.

Since you brought it up I wanted to ask or discuss the relationship between the low and high speed needle or carb settings.

I have tried to get into this on other forums about larger engines, and with mixed results, but many carbs are made in a way that one absolutely effects the other. I have no idea on this application if its just the normal way nitro works, or if its just how the carb works but could you offer additional info on this?

I know on another 4 stroke engine I have modded (not RC) that the lower speed jet size does effect the hi speed jet, and changing one makes a difference on the other. Thankfully these are not as sensitive to jetting as a nitro or 2 stroke engine, but its still a pain since there isnt any fine tuning like on this engine (dyn 32).

4wheelinrevo

im thinking of turning mine into a electric brushless set up.

any thoughts

Arrie

Hi all my boat is finaly done well 95% Done. THANK YOU MIKE. Here are some pic's. Cobus your boat is next.


And for the Brussless set up, to get it to run the same as with the DY32 motor wil cost you a hous's price. I would say stick with glow.

wave waker

[8D] cool pics Arrie[sm=thumbup.gif]

Hesco Racing

Hi Guys

Arrie looks great, can't wait to see it on the water. Here's some pics of my new rudder I made today. I think this boat will turn much better. Will be testing it tomorow and racing on Saturday. Sorry you can't be there.

ChiliConCarter

To all with carb problems!!! I have been posting results of carb change for the Dyno .32 on the Shockwave thread,I have just changed the one on my TC31 also with great results, you can read about it on that thread.The part # is SUPG1803 from tower hobbies all I have had to do is adjust the HSJ never touching the LSJ and both boats are now starting and running great.So I would highly recommend it to anyone like me who was getting real tired of trying to adjust the stock piece of ****.I can't take credit for for finding it myself because if you look back on these threads you will see several people mention it.It may not be a cure all for everone but it sure solved my problems!!!!

gooycheese

Ive been using that carb for almost 1yr now an I thinks its great.


Paul

wave waker

nice lookin rudder....lot better than stock....update us with race result....

Arrie

Just be sure to lube the carb well after running it. we had people usinf them on tunnel hulls and the barrel does not like water to much but if you lube it well it should be fine.

Jager 247

Hello guys,

I just got my TC31 the other day. went to a lake today and got 3 tanks thru it be for the clouds rolled in on me. Before i ran it i switched out the radio with a JR i had. Also flipped the reciver box upside down and re-mounted the toggle switch so i could place a 6v flat pack in it. I had no problems starting it up. i was unable to get it up on plane at first, so i bought it in and lowered the rudder. That made a big diff in it. I was up on plane with no problem. the boat ran great. i was running so old 45% nitro (it was like 3 years old, i wanted to break it in with 20% but the hobby shop was out. And i knew that the nirto % had dropped way below 45% so i ran it.) I did buy some 30% to run tomorrow, and monday going to buy some 50%. I wanna see how long the motor last running the 50 or even 65%. When it blows i get to put a good motor in it lol. one thing that i am going to do is remove the cuppler and put a HPI one on. And when i do that i will butt the header and exhust so i can get a little better profoamance out of it. I am sreaching now for a new prop. looking into getting a 220 or something just a hair bigger then what i got.

When i got home i to the flex shaft out to re-grease it. But i made the mistake of not unscrewing the cullet enough and when i put it back through the stuff box tubbing it frayed some at the tip. I then took it over to my brother-in-laws and he grinded off the on wire that frayed and then cleaned up the rest of the end of the flex shaft. He gave it a more rounded look at the end so it would go in better. I also broke the hatch clip the first time i took the hatch off the cat. I was pissed about that, but then took some apoxy and fiberglass and fixed it up, should have that problem again.

Over all the boat ran great. I didn't think that i would run that good by the 3rd tank. I haven't even got to tuning it up to where i want it. I didn't want to lean it out much due to the fact that i was using old fuel and when i put some good fuel though it it should be a new moster and then i tune it in. Today's goal was just to make sure everything was in working order and idle the fist tank and then get it up on plane whcih if passed all of them. tomorrow is when i start the tuning in process with the good fuel but i was in the upper 20s lower 30's today by the third tank. the hottes it got was about 120 then i cooled it down then ran it up again just to get some wear in the piston and working in some heat cycles.

Other then the problem with the hacth and flex shaft i am very please with this boat as of right now. I already want to make it fast, but for the speeds i am looking for i need a gasser, so that will be my next goal. anyways after i run it tomorrow i think i am going to give it a bad@^% paint job, and throw some demon decals on it. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress of that project.

Hesco Racing

So had our race day on Saturday but unfortunatly most of the guys were sick. It was only myself and a Chris with his new 3.5CMB driven F1. He was still setting up and our rules state that their must be a least 3 boats for a race so our class was scratched for the day. Then in a bold move I asked the 7.5 F1 if I could run with them just to get some running time. Biggest mistake they could ever make when they said yes.
With the new rudder this thing turns on rails. They were much faster down the straights but I kept my line and could turn 90 degree bends with no problem. In the one race I was leading for 6 laps before I mist a bouy and had to recircle. Came 5th, 3rd and second in the last three heats. Everyone was inpressed that a .32 could run with the 45. Biggest complaint was that the water spay hindered their line of sight. Hey not my problem.

wave waker

good job there Hesco Racing, u stand for tc31[sm=thumbup.gif]..nice shot there but kinda scary coz it almost flipped..


btw, my long plan project for tc31 is coming to reality, just got the header of OS .46, expecting the engine will come this week..i'll keep posting how this thing will gonna go..i really like the dynamite .32 but i just want to push tc31 more.

rappid

Ok I dont really feel like reading all 59 pages right now so I am just going to ask you guys. What is the best prop and any other mods besides a new motor that will get my thunder cat to get into the high 30's to low 40's.
thanks

Hesco Racing

rappid

You do not mention whether your TC31 is brand new or run in, if the latter I would firstly run in the motor with some low or no nitro feul. At least three tanks, this could be done on the bench with a large bucket of water feeding the motor of cool water. If you dont have a inline tap to use, an adjustable wrench pinchin the silicone works well too. Remember you dont want the motor running to cold when running it in. Once the motor has some runnning time check everything. My radio box leaked like a siv. On all the corners as well as the rubber boots on the control rods. Install a failsafe!.
Place the hull on a flat surface and check the bottom, mine had a hook in it forcing the nose down and causing drag. A sharp flat file or some sanding paper took care of that. Be carefull the hull is not vary thick dont take to much off, the paint and some of the gelcoat normally does the trick. Iff not you have to remove the radio box and fill in from the inside.

Move the feul tank to the side of the motor this helps with getting the CG right so that your boat will stay on the plane. (check page 55)
Cool down the manifold to regulate your motor temp better. Remove the presure nipple from the header pipe and place is on the fattist part of the tune pipe.
Reduce all piping to as short as possible on your feul and presure line.
Remove the header and smooth the welding on the inside, check for size match between the header and the exhaust port.

You will notice that up to this point I have not touched the motor and yet you would already see a vast improvement on speed.

As your motor has run a few more tanks you can measure your motor to check the "squich band" should be no more than 0.015". Remove head shims until it is this amount.
Run 40% Nitro feul. More nitro gives hardly a noticeable increase in speed, less nitro your wasting your time.
Any more modding on your engine would reduce its lifespan and although motos are cheap in USA in RSA their not.

Ride your boat and enjoy.

Jager 247

hey gooycheese,

i saw a few pages back you were talking about tighting up the flywheel, and someone said to use a ziptie, rope, rags. why not just use a piston locking tool. it threads into the piston and then you can just tighting the flywheel up easy as pie



http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN2512

rappid

Thanks Hesco Racing,
I have broken my motor in and everything I just wanted to see if I could make it faster.
thanks

rageman

Nice summary for all to read. Thanks.

I have some additional questions that I added to your quote below in CAPITALS if you don't mind. My TC engine is brand new.

rageman

Is this carb a direct dropin replacement for the stock carb or are there mods that must be done to connect things up and get it to function? If the latter could you please include those details?

Hesco Racing

Rageman

1. Temp of engine is a ugely discussed topic. I find temp between 110 & 125 Degree Celsius or as I have learned head temp of 4 counts before you say ouch.
2.Running would be at fast idle (1/4 throttle) with throttle blipping ever so often.
3.Removing the drive shaft is advised as you do not have a autolube on the shaft I asume and no cooling which your boat would get running in water.
4. Look at 1
5. I used a M3 pan head cap screw with thread lock fluid (Locktite red).
6. As far as possible you should try and get it to match perfectly. If you have a bigger manifold than engine port the return exhaust puls could be affected.
7. Remove head and button. Remove head shims from button. Measure from combustion face to seat face of button. Rotate motor to TDC and measure from top of sleeve to top of piston. These 2 measurements added together will give you your squish band. Before anybody starts going on about conrod stretching and so forth, this is a as close as dammit calculation. Please note that this is also in acordance with the amount of Nitro you are running.

rageman

Also, what are the LSJ & HSJ adjustment turns for this carb as a starting point?

rageman

Looking at your pictures that show the water cooling collars on the header and pipe, are they just sitting on the pipe or clamped to the pipe or alumium welded to the pipes or other?

rageman

Thanks.

Re, your item 1. response I do not understand: "or as I have learned head temp of 4 counts".

Also your item 7. response, what squish versus what %nitro?

Again, very helpful!

gooycheese

I do use a piston locking tool, the only problem I have heard with them is you can damage you piston if you are not careful. On another note, "Do Not" break in an engine on the stand even if you are running water thru the head you are not creating any resistance for the engine . the boat needs to be in the water with Resistance against it. holding the boat in the water is NO good, all you are doing is cavatating(probably spelled that wrong) like that. Just put the boat in the water and let it run, this boat floats great so if anything ya wait for it to float back no biggie have patients it will all work out in the long run.


Paul

Hesco Racing

Rageman

I have learned to hold the motor and count 1 2 3 4 before I have to remove my hand. I know its a very loose way of testing the temp but it works for me. 3 counts to hot (lean) and 5 counts to cold (rich).
At 0.015' squish you could run on this motor up to 40% nitro. Depending on your altitude. As I've said their is no big advantage of running more Nitro. But if you want to you have to increase the squish band. In other words more nitro bigger squish.