Thunder Cat 31
06-17-2007, 04:17 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Chuk that tiger drive and put on a starting belt. Most airoplane starter also have a v-groove for starting marine engines. Mine starts with the belt much easier than the tiger drive.
06-17-2007, 09:25 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
What length belt do you use/recommend?
Where do you put the loose belt in the boat when running on the water?
Where do you put the loose belt in the boat when running on the water?
ORIGINAL: Hesco Racing
Chuk that tiger drive and put on a starting belt. Most airoplane starter also have a v-groove for starting marine engines. Mine starts with the belt much easier than the tiger drive.
Chuk that tiger drive and put on a starting belt. Most airoplane starter also have a v-groove for starting marine engines. Mine starts with the belt much easier than the tiger drive.
06-20-2007, 01:42 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
OK i had to have number 1500 , after 4 days reading post in this thread i ran out to the pond to run my brand spankin new TC well had some problems ( defected parts) and broke my ruder but i JB welded it back together and will be out runing tomorow 
06-20-2007, 05:56 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Be careful running with a JB welded rudder, I wouldnt think the JB weld would hold. Regarding Sullivan Tigerdrive, Just contact them last time I talked with them they said there unit has life time warranty.
Paul
Paul
06-20-2007, 11:30 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Well JB weld is the only choice i have right now, the ruder is backordered EVERYWHERE, but i have a inline setup coming too so this is just temporary
06-22-2007, 06:29 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
I bought the tc31 4 weeks ago...it flys and im happy, but the carb either runs to rich or to lean...i ran it for an hour and the pipe came loose and also the rubber around the two pipes melted..the motor is fine, i took a compresion test and its perfect...the carb is horrible..i called liquid twisted for a new pipe and and a motified motor and also a plate that locks down and seals the radio box and also a prop...but i did read about a new carb that is made by tiger that is really good...but cant find it at tower hobbies---please help..i need to win a race with out killing my engine
06-25-2007, 01:46 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Ok wow I just got a TC 31 an right out of the box I had a prob. Went to start it and come to find out they for got to put the speed needles in. Now I have to wait til Trues. to run it. I hope more probs do not come up after I get my boat back from the shop.
06-25-2007, 03:11 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Can anyone tell me how they broke in their thundercat on the bench. I am trying to put a cup of water where the intake is and its not taking any of the water. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sloanhaus
Thanks
Sloanhaus
06-25-2007, 03:54 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
do not break in the engine on the stand the motor need a load on it for a good breakin. It will not suck water into the intake tube the boat moving through the water will force water to the engine.
06-25-2007, 04:07 PM
#1519
RE: Thunder Cat 31
ORIGINAL: Sloanhaus
Can anyone tell me how they broke in their thundercat on the bench. I am trying to put a cup of water where the intake is and its not taking any of the water. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sloanhaus
Can anyone tell me how they broke in their thundercat on the bench. I am trying to put a cup of water where the intake is and its not taking any of the water. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Sloanhaus
I do not recommend doing a bench break-in, as said in the previous post, the motor should have a load on it....(i.e. the propeller turning against water) Also, breaking-in the boat on the water helps you get a feel for how the boat handles.
If you are stuck on doing that though, get one of those small pond/fountain pumps to run water through the cooling head. Harbor freight has them pretty cheap....$10 or so.
I know a guy who broke-in his miss vegas on the bench...doesn't seem to have had any negative effects as of yet....but still not recommended.
06-25-2007, 04:59 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
MY THUNDERCAT VIDEO
20% NITRO PROP X 440
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx7ZJD32ad4
NEXT VIDEO WILL BE IN 2 WEEKS VS A TOPSPEED 2
I HOPE YOU ENJOY
YOU CAN CHECK MY OTHER VIDEO TOO !!!
20% NITRO PROP X 440
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx7ZJD32ad4
NEXT VIDEO WILL BE IN 2 WEEKS VS A TOPSPEED 2
I HOPE YOU ENJOY
YOU CAN CHECK MY OTHER VIDEO TOO !!!
06-25-2007, 06:55 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
We use a big fuel bulb with an X cut in the back of it to get water to the motor for break in. Just jam a hose in the back of the bulb where you cut the X. Then just plug in a long piece of fuel line in the front of the bulb. Water does spray out the sides of the x but who really cares.
06-25-2007, 11:00 PM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Regarding the 0.015" squish band. My measurements show the head protrudes into the cylinder 0.1035", the piston TDC is 0.115" below the cylinder top and the shims are 0.0115" and 0.008" so I can not get 0.015" squish band by removing existing shims ie either too little or too much. If however I remove the 0.0115" shim and add a new 0.008" shim along with retaining the one 0.008" shim I can hit 0.015" squish band on the button. Does this make sense?
ORIGINAL: Hesco Racing
rappid
You do not mention whether your TC31 is brand new or run in, if the latter I would firstly run in the motor with some low or no nitro feul. At least three tanks, this could be done on the bench with a large bucket of water feeding the motor of cool water. If you dont have a inline tap to use, an adjustable wrench pinchin the silicone works well too. Remember you dont want the motor running to cold when running it in. Once the motor has some runnning time check everything. My radio box leaked like a siv. On all the corners as well as the rubber boots on the control rods. Install a failsafe!.
Place the hull on a flat surface and check the bottom, mine had a hook in it forcing the nose down and causing drag. A sharp flat file or some sanding paper took care of that. Be carefull the hull is not vary thick dont take to much off, the paint and some of the gelcoat normally does the trick. Iff not you have to remove the radio box and fill in from the inside.
Move the feul tank to the side of the motor this helps with getting the CG right so that your boat will stay on the plane. (check page 55)
Cool down the manifold to regulate your motor temp better. Remove the presure nipple from the header pipe and place is on the fattist part of the tune pipe.
Reduce all piping to as short as possible on your feul and presure line.
Remove the header and smooth the welding on the inside, check for size match between the header and the exhaust port.
You will notice that up to this point I have not touched the motor and yet you would already see a vast improvement on speed.
As your motor has run a few more tanks you can measure your motor to check the "squich band" should be no more than 0.015". Remove head shims until it is this amount.
Run 40% Nitro feul. More nitro gives hardly a noticeable increase in speed, less nitro your wasting your time.
Any more modding on your engine would reduce its lifespan and although motos are cheap in USA in RSA their not.
Ride your boat and enjoy.
rappid
You do not mention whether your TC31 is brand new or run in, if the latter I would firstly run in the motor with some low or no nitro feul. At least three tanks, this could be done on the bench with a large bucket of water feeding the motor of cool water. If you dont have a inline tap to use, an adjustable wrench pinchin the silicone works well too. Remember you dont want the motor running to cold when running it in. Once the motor has some runnning time check everything. My radio box leaked like a siv. On all the corners as well as the rubber boots on the control rods. Install a failsafe!.
Place the hull on a flat surface and check the bottom, mine had a hook in it forcing the nose down and causing drag. A sharp flat file or some sanding paper took care of that. Be carefull the hull is not vary thick dont take to much off, the paint and some of the gelcoat normally does the trick. Iff not you have to remove the radio box and fill in from the inside.
Move the feul tank to the side of the motor this helps with getting the CG right so that your boat will stay on the plane. (check page 55)
Cool down the manifold to regulate your motor temp better. Remove the presure nipple from the header pipe and place is on the fattist part of the tune pipe.
Reduce all piping to as short as possible on your feul and presure line.
Remove the header and smooth the welding on the inside, check for size match between the header and the exhaust port.
You will notice that up to this point I have not touched the motor and yet you would already see a vast improvement on speed.
As your motor has run a few more tanks you can measure your motor to check the "squich band" should be no more than 0.015". Remove head shims until it is this amount.
Run 40% Nitro feul. More nitro gives hardly a noticeable increase in speed, less nitro your wasting your time.
Any more modding on your engine would reduce its lifespan and although motos are cheap in USA in RSA their not.
Ride your boat and enjoy.
06-26-2007, 12:22 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Rageman
Do the math (Piston to end of sleeve) - (button tip to retaining shoulder) = 0.015"
0.115" - 0.1035" = 0.0115" (squish will cause detonation at sea level fine at high altitude) + 0.008" =0.0195" (motor will run fine but not have peak power unless you through heaps of Nitro at it)
Now to solve problem. Find a machine shop that can machine the retaining shoulder back by 0.0045". That means that the equation reads
0.115" - (0.1035"-0.0045")=0.007"+ two 0.008" shims =0.015" or find a shim company to make you a 0.004"
0.115"-0.1035"+0.004" =0.0155" close enough.
Hope this helps
Do the math (Piston to end of sleeve) - (button tip to retaining shoulder) = 0.015"
0.115" - 0.1035" = 0.0115" (squish will cause detonation at sea level fine at high altitude) + 0.008" =0.0195" (motor will run fine but not have peak power unless you through heaps of Nitro at it)
Now to solve problem. Find a machine shop that can machine the retaining shoulder back by 0.0045". That means that the equation reads
0.115" - (0.1035"-0.0045")=0.007"+ two 0.008" shims =0.015" or find a shim company to make you a 0.004"
0.115"-0.1035"+0.004" =0.0155" close enough.
Hope this helps
06-26-2007, 06:15 AM
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RE: Thunder Cat 31
Why are you trying to make the head clearance so much? Will this sport engine not preform with a tighter clearance? I have heard between .006 and .008 is where you want to be?
Paul
Paul