yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

Update. Ran my stock MV yesterday. Ran great. Running 36X55 prop I got 40.1 mph on GPS. With my set-up, the nose felt light and seemed to air out pretty good. Actually, it ran so good, I never even tested my Y535. I'll have to do that during my next test. From reading some of the previous posts, most people are getting better results with the 535, I'm just not sure if i'ts going to be enough prop because the 535 seems to be a bit smaller than the Grimracer. All I know is that my engine is strong and I don't know if I could really ask for the boat to perform any better. Time will tell.

needy4speed

hi jd,yes used pliers and fixed my tank..a wrench did'nt work so i just let it go,but it all perfect now,just waiting for a calm day...windy and cold ...but mostly just real windy..last night was about 50 today its around 72...any way thanks

nuzum

My Feedback: (1)

ok guys im going too purchase a mv and there is 100 plus pages of info what is the mods up too date that everyone is doing ,sponsons, fueltank, motor,etc. i would greatly appreciate this

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

I ruined my boat with the sponson mods. I tried everything. The boat would be completly out of shape just trying to get up to speed and sometimes flip for no reason, constantly. If i got past all that nonsense it would turn a 54-56 in good water. Who knows why. I will swap everything into a new hull and get it back to normal again.

Jerry Dunlap

The sponson mods work well with 18 size engines running in the mid to high 40s. When you run the boat with a 21 engine and speeds over 50 you get into a whole different set of variables. The guy who designed the boat never thought anyone would be running one in the mid 50s.

JD

nuzum

My Feedback: (1)

guess i will ask twisted liquid they have alot available and online tech

Yo! Team Green

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a synopsis of the changes that I made.
Hull-
1) Jerry's sponson mods.
2) Add a spar in front of the fuel tank mounting block to connect the two stringers in the sponson, the upper deck, and the hull itself. This eliminates a lot of flex in the center portion of the hull.
3) 'Blueprint' the bottom to eliminate rounded edges.
4) Scuff the bottom of the hull with a scotchbrite pad to knock off the gloss.
5) Open up the tail end of the cowling - in the turbine exhaust area - to get more airflow through the engine bay.
6) Sharpen the rudder and the turn fin.
7) Replace the stock turn fin with a Grim Fin or equivalent.
8) I removed the tail fins. I did not want to do this becasue I like the look of the boat WITH the fins and wing BUT it definitely increased speed.
9) I swapped the positions of the fuel tank and the radio box. Radio box is now in front and a Sullivan fuel tank sits where the radio box used to be.

More to come... >T

Yo! Team Green

My Feedback: (1)

Engine -
1) Break it in with some TLC. Run the stock prop for a few tanks . Then try a sharpened/balanced Y535. When you can turn the Y535 with authority, remove the head shim. Run that prop for a gallon or so and then try a Y536, then a '40' sized prop x440, m440 or 1440 (I am running a back-cut 1440 now). I have yet to meet a stock AQ.18 that will turn more than that.
2) Install a header cooling coil - mine came from Tower - it is listed as a part for the SV27. After you install the coil, put a layer of JB Weld on it to bond it to the header. This will prevent vibration from eating a hole in your header.
3) replace the header connector with a more durable silicone based coupler.
4) I had to cut 1/4" off my header so the back end of the exhaust pipe would sit correctly on it's mounting pedestal.
5) I have run a good quality 67% nitro fuel since the first tank.
6) I use K&B 1L plugs.
7) Take care of your motor with proper flushing and 'pickling' at the end of the day.
8) Don't forget to clean and lube the pull-starter assembly at the end of each day.
9) Install a starting belt if you have an electric starter. The AQ.18 motor starts very reliably but an electric starter will start it more quickly and save you some arm fatique.
10) Add washers (shims) under the motor mounts as necessary to make sure that your engine lines up with your stuffing tube.
11) Add a muffler or quiet pipe so the neighbors don't get upset.
12) Add some epoxy (and maybe a little fiberglass cloth) around the motor mounts.
13) Remove the 4 wood screws holding the motor down and 'harden' those holes with some CA glue or a little thinned epoxy before re-installing them.

Please note that none of these changes involves a ton of money and none of them are what I would call HIGHLY technical. SO, there you have it - 105 pages of this thread boiled down to two posts - haha... I am certain that others will jump in here and add or correct where necessary.

PS - I love my little MV and I am sure you will as well. They are a GREAT deal of Fun for the money.
>T

yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

First off, I'm pretty darn new to R/C boats. I've got several years experience with R/C planes, and I've grown up running a few full scale boats, so I have some common sense to bring with me to R/C boats. With this being said, I came here and did my homework by reading through these 105 pages. That is what I advise everyone to do, "READ"! There's absolutely no sense in coming on here and asking for advice when it's already layed out for you. If you ask dumb questions you're going to get smart-assed answers. You may also ask dumb questions and get no response at all, which is what has happened in your case. Sure, you can go ahead and go to the website you've so proudly mentioned (which by the way I frequent myself), but I've found this site to be much more informative. I know this because I "READ".

I'm going to pass on some of my opinions and observances. First, sponson mods. It is solely my opinion that this mod is not suitable for all. I, for one, will be running in some pretty calm water. I think the sponson mod wouldn't help me much at all, simply because I feel that the sponsons should hardly by in the water at all. If I were running in more choppy water, I feel that's where the mod would come in handy, simply to help keep the boat more on top of the waves. Again, this is "my opinion". Secondly, I've had absolutely no problems with my tank, but that's not to say that I won't eventually. I bought the same tank to have as a spare just in case, and I do like this tank over the alternatives. Thirdly, the motor. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the stock motor. Mine is running stronger than what I'd been told it would run, but I'm crediting "my" break-in procedure for that, as I strongly disagree with what the majority (and the manufacturer) suggest for doing so. You can try the stock engine and if it doesn't suit meet your expectations, ditch it and buy an alternative. But, if you don't break it in the "right way", you'll never see "any engine's" full potential.

I think I've pretty much answered your questions, but there's a hell of a lot more to learn than this. You've got boat set-up to learn also, which requires "READING" and testing. My running buddy and I have learned that no two boats are the same, even when they're set up exactly the same. What works for one may not work for another.

Good luck to you, and no pun intended. I simply feel that it's better to do your homework first before asking that which should be the obvious.

Don't knock the Universe, it helps much more than it hurts. Trust me on that. Not all Forums/Infosites are the same!

[Sorry as I had to remove the quote as that company is not to be discussed on this site. Original posting removed also.]

fortimbo

At last someone who has some different ideas on running in a motor. I'm not saying that i'm definately correct it is just my opinion, but its based on my own experiences of building full scale engines, 6 cyl, V8's etc and talking to the guys who build and race them. I was always taught to run in your engine the way you intended to use it. If you want to run it hard, then run it in hard. Just make sure it has good oil supply and doesnt over heat. There are technical reasons that this method has advantages which I wont go into. I would be interested if anyone else has investigated the pros and cons with running in nitro engines both ways. I ran my MV engine hard from day one and have had no problems. It starts well every time and runs hard after just 2 litres of 20/20/60 fuel.

Tim...

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

You are correct yard-dart....its all trial and error on every boat with the basics being applyed to all boats. Ball park on props,strut depth, turn fin and engine tuneup. Ived wrecked more stuff just tryng something new and found out alot the hard way most of the time but if you want to go fast thats the way it is. I have gone 57 mph and then to go and try a sponson mod that brought me 2 steps back. But you dont know unless you try, wright? I am on my 3rd hull. Why? Because i love to try new ideas. I have my engine 1 inch forward, the "stock" fuel tank pushed forward and to the right looking at the boat for better ballance at full speed. My exhaust goes out to the side of the hull to cut down on "pipe lengh'..The radio box is up front 1 inch as well. I have gone as far as mounting the gps all over the boat with wire ties to find out where the boat likes it best. And props....forget it i am on number 9 and found so called custom props work no better than my own custom props. Like i said i will tear into anything to find more speed but hey its the love of the sport that i do it, Gary

yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

That's one of the reasons I didn't even want to attempt the sponson mod, simply because I knew I couldn't change it if I didn't like it. Hat's off to you for your effort.
I found out today that I don't like calm water. When I say calm, I mean like glass. The boats seem to suck to the surface of the water more, and they're definately not as fast. From what I could tell, I lost a full 3 mph on the calm water, as opposed to a rippled/choppy surface. I knew it would slow down some, but I didn't expect it to affect it that much. Oh well, you test and you learn.

Dan S

Yard Dart,

I have a couple of lines marked on my strut, the reason for that is one is for ripples to choppy water and one is for glass water.

Different strut depth and angle for different water.

Dan.

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

Peter T

Mr Hedach, you must be one hell of a guy with some very special hearing to hear this "Cowl Howl" over
the sound of a Nitro engine screeming at 20,000 odd RPM's

Big_Nasty911

I thought Cowl Howl was the noise the guy you wear racing making that whining noise

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

40,000 rpm not 20,000 LOL

yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

Yeah Dan, I'm starting to do the same thing. I'm also learning to prop for different water conditions also. It's definately a learning curve.

yard-dart

My Feedback: (35)

Here's a couple of pics I took this evening

N8ZF

Thanks allot Needy, appreciate the input. The lakes in Michigan have taken on a rather firm (hard) consistency for the time being, so I have some time. If Miss V. is serious, she will wait...lol. Man these guys are filling my inbox quickly (I have the notifier on) but that's good, Miss V. seem to have quite a following!!

Thanks again,


Lou
N8ZF

5574jerome

hi just want to see if it works iam new and love miss vegas great boat
lots of fun

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

Hey yard-dart how do you like that grim racer turn fin? Ive uesd the R.L.T." read backwards" fin . They said its the best so i dont know any different on them.

needy4speed

lou,yaa miss v is kinda a *****, but you gotta luv her...hope to get lucky sunday with her if the weather is nice..

needy4speed

Heah, can any one tell me why guys grind down mv rudders makeing the tip like a knife(half moon like) how does this help performance??

Sean Bowf

I think I read that it has something to do with making sure the boat does not use it like a ride surface. Personally, I don't do it.

Sean