Shockwaver

Those who play with Vegas stay with Vegas = Bigger is Better = Stock it or Mod it = It's your choice = That's why we run 2 classes

007clint

I was going to comment about putting ice skates on your vegas but instead come on down to the Super Texas race next week where our water is still liquid. There is an RTR class for your Vegas!





See the Current Flyer on the IMPBA website!

needy4speed

HI GUYS< took my vegas out today...and flipped her three times..question i must have gotten excess water in her because she would run great then give her gas and was sluggish then she would die after two minutes..got her back restarted it happen three more times and i called it a day...also think i had her to lean.as ..i forgot what manual said for the highspeed setting anyway got her home remove g-plug and pull coil a bunch of times water came out so i put her up side down yanked the cord a bunch more times,put more after run oil in her..then dry ran her at medium idle for 1 minute and made sure had high idle at 2.5..she seems okay now...anyone else ever have running problems after flipping ? one more thing..is that brass screw that is set sideways and screws into throttle lever low idle ajustment and if so should it be set 2 turns out.(manel does mention it..AND Last but not least my sevo box is loose(from crash i guess)...is it just expoxed or are there screws..it seems to me glue broke loose...thanks craig

Jerry Dunlap

Sounds like you were running too lean. Something to do after flipping the boat is to hold it bow upwards and drain any water that might be in the tuned pipe. The brass screw is the low speed needle and two turns out should work. If the engine turns high RPMs with the throttle closed then you should open the LSN. The radio box is screwed into wood stand offs. To check the front two screws, you'll need to remove the servo tray.

JD

Getnoff

Just out of curiosity...you're saying that the SV27 nitro is running the exact same engine as is in the MV. I thought that was the case, but does that then also mean that all of the engine parts are interchangeable? For example Tower Hobbies shows a different flywheel and I think a different flex cable collet for the SV than for the MV...can you use either in the MV?

Dan S

The collet are the same just a different color.

The flywheels, the MV is Steel and the SV is aluminum.

they fit both.

The flex shaft however are not interchangeable, they are both .150" flex but the SV is 12" long with a 3/16" shaft and the MV is 15.4" long with a 1/8" shaft.

Dan.

needy4speed

thanks JD, i was running tower 30% would it be okay to mix 50% and 30% together..and will i leave same carb settings or should i open 1/8 turn......yes as far as sevo box the screws probably vibrated loose...all motor mount screws had to be tightend lots of vibration...I am used to electric never had parts loosen this much...well next time out she should be perfect...i do have a whole lot of water inside after a 4 min run..is this common it takes on way more than my super vee....should i maybe use silicon sealer around wear canapy seats on the deck...thanks for your help...ps after flipping do you guys ever take off recoil starter and dry separately and oil it??

dookie84

hey everyone,

im pretty new to the boating hobby. just got a MV about 2 months ago, havent really been able to run it that much cuz work and all. but i took it out yesterday (i already broke the engine in) and ran her slow for a few tanks. after about 3 tanks i felt good about sending it planing across the water, and dodging some ducks. about the 5th tank, i sent it out after letting her cool down, it ran great for about 15 minutes, then just died for no apparent reason. i brought it back in and tried to start it but it wouldnt turn over. decided to call it a day, went home and tore the engine apart. man was i pissed, the piston rod where it connects to the crank shaft looked like it exploded, the piston head had a 2cm chunk broke off it, and the final bit of awesomeness the back of the cylinder had a nice chuck broken off the block. why the heck did that happen, and what would anyone recommend as a good upgrade from the AQU-.18? direct bolt on or minimal alterations. any feed back would be great.

hedach

My Feedback: (2)

To much water in your boat? Take a thin tube silicon hose -1/2 inch inside diameter and 1.5 inchs long and drill a 1/2 inch hole in the rear left side of boat and install in boat facing upward. It should be slightly above the water when its just sitting still in the water"bathtub, pool". Epoxy or J B weld the hose to the boat. Now every time the boat is moving and turning right the water will come out but if it stalls it can not get in. Try it

5574jerome

hedach post a pic of it

Sean Bowf

If you are getting water in the boat after it stops, I would not worry about it. The boat won't sink, and since the front has more floation in it, the back will go down a little, but the engine should not take in water.

As to getting water in the boat while running, I leave my plug out. A lot of folks drill another hole in the left side of the transom in about the same spot as the drain plug on the right...since this is where the water goes during a right turn. In short, it allows the water to drain out while it is running.

As to teh SV27 flywheel...I would not run one out of the bag. If you put it on a prop balancer, you will find it is not balanced (unless they changed something). In short, they cut a nice little light, balanced, flywheel, then drilled a hole in one side of it... When I installed one on my MV, I had all kinds of screws rattling loose on my boat...which lead to other problems. So if given the choice between a box stock MV flywheel, and a box stock SV27 flywheel...I would use the MV one (again, unless AQ changed the way they drill the SV27 one).

Someone mentioned having screws come loose. if you are having this problem, slowly turn your engine over while looking at the flywheel and collet. See if it looks like it is not centered (moves side to side as you spin the engine over). This is not rare, and will cause a lot of vibration that will cause screws to come loose, more than they normally do (I think it will happen some times no matter what you do...check them after every run).

The person that broke the rod etc...I believe the rods let loose in the AQ engine when something else goes wrong. As an example, if there was a stray piece of metal in the engine, or if the piece of your piston broke off while running, it would lock up the piston to the cylinder sleeve (or jam the piece between the head button and the piston), and break the rod. Just my thoughts on it...other folks might feel differently. My daughter had an engine that never really ran quite right. I was running it rich, yet it was running hot. Eventually, the rod broke. So, I think something was wrong inside the engine, that led to the rod letting loose. I got the engine replaced under the warrantee. Another possibility, is if the boat flips, you need to turn the engine off right away...if not, the engine will fill with water, and water does not compress very well...

As to mixing 30% and 50%, I did that a lot in my boats. Should not cause any problems if they are both boat fuel.

Radio box coming loose...I have seen folks seal their screws, to keep them from backing out or leaking. I am not sure if they are backing out, or if it is the wooden blocks that are shrinking and growing as they get wet and dry out. I have had the screws come loose, and have had 2 of the mounting blocks come loose. Check for both. As a matter of fact, if you have not done it already, I would remove the radio box and put some thinned epoxy on and around the blocks. I do this to all the mounting blocks (engine, fuel tank, tuned pipe mount, and radio mount). Makes it easier to clean the boat if you remove your engine, and do it to the hull around the engine area of the boat.

As to collets...if you are buying a collet, I would recommend getting an octura collet over either the SV27 or MV collet. I have zero experience with the SV27 one...but if it is the same as the MV, but a different color (as mentioned), go for the octura collet. The MV one is not bad...and might not be worth changing unless you have problems...but if you have problems...get the octura one. The main problem I had with the MV one, was that it was TOO tight. Hard to get the flex cable in or out.

Sean

needy4speed

sean..sounds like this water getting in mv is pretty common...i guess drilling hole in left side makes most sense especially once my boat stops stalling out and i can bring her in nicely instead of using the old fishing pole method...thanks..ps..does anyone know the correct distance boeys are set for mv class race...this way i can make a realistic pratice coarse...

needy4speed

WHY do they use those crappy tiny phillps head screws ? the servo mount screws are so tight my philips that works fine on the crappy screws that hold the lid on can't loosen any of the same tiny screws that hold sevo tray(which i need to remove to tighten my loose sevo box...Why in the hell do they use this tiny garbage..or at least include a special philips that can remove them with out stripping the heads.The boat should be easy to take appart..i never had problems building cars with these tools i use...So now i'm stuck can't loosen screws thus can't run my new boat...i feel like thowing it in the garbage im so pissed...aquacraft either stop using such tiny screws or include some magic tool that can loosen them ...this is ridiculas...

Dan S

all you need is a smaller Phillips screwdriver, nothing magical about those.

Dan.

needy4speed

The one i use is the right size..thats my point it worked fine on the lid screws which are the same screws..but the screws that hold down the servo tray,are to dam tight so the phillips can't turn and ends up breaking loose instead of turning the screw...i am not new at building things i'm 48 years old... not some dumb kid..when i say these screws are not breaking free its because someone made them to tight..its not a matter or corosion,rust, or old age or defective fasteners..its a matter of using cheap ultra tiny scews that were installed way to tight to be loosend..i have a complete set of micro phillips...It really is a case of manufacter cutting corners and selecting inferior fastners...and the bottom line is i am really angry over this,because there is know solution other then just mixing a bunch of epoxy and glueing mv radio box down which is what i have to do...ch

needy4speed

FIXED IT!!! in case anyone elses servo BOX on MV comes loose...Here's easy way to fix...just remove throttle servo and you will be able to tighten one of the front tiny screws... to get the other side you need to make a mod..simply bore a hole in the sever holder plate directly above the screw and presto you can tighten that side even with out removing throttle servo...PS all these are the same size screws,but for some reason the 4 screws that hold the servo tray to the servo box are impossible to unscrew...so i case anyone else has this happen just do what i did ..whole job took less then 10 minutes..ch

Jerry Dunlap

Just like the movie, "Juno," a happy ending to a challenging situation. Okay, maybe comparing pregnancy and screws isn't the best analogy.

JD

Dan S

Glad you fixed it, you must have gotten a Monday morning MV.

Mine were fine.

Now a message to everyone, I have just stopped smoking, so if my replies or remarks come out a bit harsh all I ask is bare with me for a couple of weeks, I will try to proof read what I write.

Dan.

beaverboy

I had the same problem. One of the forward corner servo plate mounting screws wouldn't come out & it's too tight in the corner to get a small vice grip on it. I used my Dremel with a small grinding bit to grind off the head of the screw. That heated the screw and it pulled right out before I was finished grinding the head off. Once the tray was out of the box, it would have been simple to get a vise grip on the screw body and turn it out. Would work on the radio box screws too! I replaced all 8 screws with slightly larger hex headed screws..after enlarging the hole with an appropriate size drill bit. All good now!

My experience with Chinese manufactured nuts, bolts and screws has not been good no matter what size they are so I always replace them with better hardware. One exception is the M3 hex headed bolts on the MV which seem to be satisfactory.

007clint

I replace all phillips head screws and bolts with allen socket head ones!

needy4speed

Regarding replacement of screws...Yes if it is something that must be taken appart at anytime and the screws are crap deffinitely replacing them is not a bad idea..But in my case with the servo tray...i just left those screws alone and found an even better faster way to fix the problem...so yes replace screws that have to be delt with on regular basis,but others that you do'nt need to remove just leave the orginals especially like in my case would have had to be grinded off and replaced with larger screws ...things like that just are'nt worth the trouble unless of coarse your going for a show boat look..i myself replaced all my stock fuel line with fancy purple and added a nice inline purple alumium feul filter..was it necessary..not really i just like it..enough said..ch

xx954hxcafexx

Couple of pix of what has been done, epoxied the interior and filled the gaps arounds the motor mounts with microballons, also the boat never got the stock MV name, i modded it so now shes this Miss FLA, i live in florida not vegas, anyways it will get a paint job and maybe some custom decals later on, but for now its fine.

needy4speed

HI GUYS...regarding high speed ajust...manual says start at 2.5 so after break inn running 40% wear should setting be? also turning in screw makes it run leaner? or is that richer...thanks ch

Sean Bowf

Where your needle winds up can differ, from engine to engine, from location to location, from day to day. My family has three MVs...I have seen everything from 2.25 turns out, to close to 3 turns out on the engines with everything stock. I have seen engines that run their strongest at 2.25 turns out after break-in, run their strongest at close to 3 turns out just prior to failure.

I think 2.5 turns out is probably a pretty safe setting after break-in, but you should break it in a little richer to keep it from over heating due to the added friction of a tight engine. I normally started about 3 turns out, ran two tanks best I could, then started turning it in a eighth turn after each tank. After about 4-5 tanks you should see it really starting to come alive, then after about 7 tanks it should be pretty much broken in. As a rough standard, I try to keep leaning it up, an eighth turn per tank, until I can only hold my fingers on the head for about 2 to 3 seconds right after a run (yes, I have burnt my fingers before when it was too hot, so be careful). Problem with this method, is that different water temperatures are going to change the temp of the head after a run. Your engine will last a lot longer if it is run a little rich, as compared to running it a little lean. Too rich you will normally notice that the last half of your throttle opening, has little affect on speed. A little too lean, you will hear the engine surging as it is running full speed down the straights (this can also be a bad plug). A lot too lean will be when it runs good on the shore, but dies 20 ft into the water. It should run like it is too rich on shore (bench tuning is not a good thing...tune it by how it runs in the water). Too lean will also eat a lot of glow plugs.

Sean

needy4speed

sean..thanks that makes it pretty clear...i hope i did'nt run her to lean the other day as i forget my manual...but i never ran her more then 4-5 min per run.anyway i ran 3 tanksthrough her three weeks ago at 2.5 and ran her pretty easy..i ran her at home yesteraday after got home from lake at 2.5 setting and she seemed fine..i'll post after i take her out sunday..thanks again