007clint

JD,
I am playing around with the balance (CG) on my second Miss Vegas. When you designed it what was the range of CG that you ended up with? This obviously changes as you empty the front-mounted gas tank. What is the theory around mounting the gas tanks in the front - I notice this also in many other boats besides the hydroplanes (Cats, Monos, etc).
Thanks,
Clint

P.S.: Thanks for designing the Miss Vegas - I really had a BLAST racing it for the first time in the Houston Fall Classic last weekend (of course, winning always is fun) .

Jerry Dunlap

1. The design of the Miss Vegas is based on several successful 12 Cell Electric/Sport 40 designs. I really wasn't worried about "the range of CG." I wanted a RTR hydro that was roomy, easy to work on, and with the capability of adjusting the ride.
2. The main reason the fuel tank is located where it is in the Miss Vegas is because it's the easiest place to locate the tank. Not much "theory" in that explaination, huh?

The Miss Vegas project has been a lot of fun. We will be running a Sport 18 Hydro Class in our district next year. There are two Sport 18 Hydro Class races scheduled for this October and November.

JD

Dan S

Thanks JD, so if its not a water problem in the engine, what could be the culprit?
Why is he the only one blowing rear bearings?

anything would help.

Dan.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Did you read [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4849102]this post[/link]?

Dan S

Piper,
sorry, yes I was just replying in sequence.

By rear bearing I mean the one closest to the stern, the biggest of the two.
last time I looked Terry as been keeping the proper distance between the dog and the strut.
Terry is very meticulous at everything he does, well sharpened and balanced prop. When something goes wrong we inspect everything before and during removal.

maybe were missing something!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

For people who haven't seen what noy having the gap between the strut and drive dog can do, unfortunately I have with one of my .12 monos. It ended up breaking the threads on the crank, tossing the flywheel out through the top and the flex cable and connected parts out the back.
I was working with strut angle at the time and didn't bother to look at the gap. Needless to say, I do now!

t munn

My Feedback: (2)

guys,

it is the inner bearing closest to the con rod,Not the outer one closest to the flywheel.

The carrier that holds the race in lets go.twice now.

30%nitro 20% synthetic /castor red max boat fuel.

space at strut and thrust washer...yes
prop balanced ...yes
drive line lubed ..yes

problem ...unknown..[&o]

Terry

gatin69

THIS WAS A GOOD WEEKEND FOR ME AND MY MISS VEGAS, SHE STAR TU RUN FAASTER, I WENT TO THE LAKE WHIT SERGIO A FRIEND OF MINE, HE HAS ONE PRETTY ORANGE VEGAS, AND BOTH BOATS STAR RUN FASTER EVERY TIME WE PUT ON THE WATER I THINK WE HAVE TO PRACTICE WHIT THE HSN, BECAUSE SOME TIMES THE VEGAS DONT REV UP ALL THE TIME, SOME TIMES THEY FALL..... THEY WAS RUNNING VERY WELL IN THE CORNERS BUT IN STRAIGHT WAY THEY LOOSE REVS!!!!!!!


THX ALL OF YOU GUYS !!!

Grimracer

Terry,

Tell us how you are pickling the motor.. .. I raced red max fuel about 10 years ago and would go through about two sets of bearings a year.. switched fuel and bearing issues went away.. but again let us know your pickle procedure.. if for instance you are using allot of WD-40 and not backing that up with a good air tool oil (Do not use marvel mystery oil) you are going to be changing allot of bearings. Are you running the motor out of fuel to clean the fuel out? Are you running the motor in short bursts on WD-40? There are a bunch of bad ways to pickle a motor.. and most lead to bearing failure.

Keep us posted.

Grimracer

t munn

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks grim,

i am disconnecting the fuel line and running the engine out of fuel.
then i spray w-d 40 in the carb, turn that over a few times.
then i put hobbico after run oil in the carb and glow plug hole and pull that over a few times with the plug out.

Then i clean the boats inside, jube the flex shaft , check her all over and then put the boat up til next time.

Terry

Dan S

Grim,

it might be a good thing to tell us or just me the right way to pickle an engine (maybe its because i'm french that I don't get it).

All I have been doing is at the end of the day I drop after run oil in the carb and in the cylinder (plug removed) a couple of slow pulls (so it doesn't spit the oil back out).

I don't run the motor to burn the excess fuel, this in my opinion does the exact same thing as running out of fuel and running the motor lean for nothing.
I could be wrong, but so far the motor is doing fine (knock on wood).

Torquer

Could you please elaborate a little more regarding the Marvel Mystory Oil? Is the stuff bad for the engine?
-Thanks

RedBullVegas

1outlaw,

I have sat on this for a couple days now. It appears no one really answered your questions. First I will start with the T.L. Turn Fin. That appears to be the wrong one. You might contact T.L. and describe what you have. That to me, looks like the bigger hydro trun fin which would eliminate all your turn fin issues.

Second as to the crack on the sponson. Two part answer:

1. These boats are made by an underpaid chinese guy who does not use enough glass resin when forming the two halves. That is why you see guys using 30 minute epoxy in the bottom of the boat. I try to get as much reinforcement in the hull as possible. I don't believe it is an intentional error.

2. If you did not hit anything, what is the chip on the lower sponson with the crack you are speaking of?

The strut spraying water back into the boat: you might try changing the angle to not catch water? Not sure about that one. It looks just like the way I re-tooled mine and I have no problems.

I hope this helps.

t munn

My Feedback: (2)

Guys, I am having problems with my .18 cvr-mx the one way bearing in the starter is not catching so I am ordering one.

I have everything i need to start the engine with a starter belt.

I have reinstalled the part that the crank pin sets in as well as the back plate with 'o" ring.

My question is do i need to re-install my pull starter along with faulty bearing or will it run fine with the starter removed and only the shaft or stub that goes in the one way bearing exposed ??

Thanks
Terry

Dan S

yes,
for some reason that oil is bad for the bearings.

RedBullVegas

Marvels Mystery Oil is very good used as a cleaning agent/gunk remover or even an "injector cleaner"....Its properties are not very good for lubrication.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Terry, pull the bearing out and clean it to see if that helps. The car and truck guys have problems with that one-way bearing all the time.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

It also allegedly gums up over time and doesn't do well at preventing rust. OTOH, Marvel Air Tool oil does great at preventing rust and lubricating. Automatic transmission fluid is also supposed to work well.

RedBullVegas

Just thinking out loud here, but I have also thought about using chainwax. I used it often on my motorcycle chain, may work well for cable greasing. As for pickling a motor, I have had all the luck in the world with the few drops of after-run oil and chainsaw chain oil. Just try and blow out the chainsaw oil before you start running the engine again. I know these methods may seem a little off, but just trying to expand the horizon of opinions.

Grimracer

Here is what i know.. take it for what its worth to ya..

Marvel Mystery Oil has something in it called Sent of Wintergreen. This added stuff is hard on plastics and rubber parts. (your boat is just that.. plastic) It also does not have the long life properties of air tool oil. It gums and it does little to prevent moisture build up.

As it is the best stuff I have ever used is good old Porter Cable air tool oil. Also to do your engine fully its best to pull it out of the hull to pickle it. I take and flush the motor out with WD-40 and then fully coat the engine inside and out with air tool oil. Most engines take as much as 2 or more OZ of oil to get then done right.

Having said that.. If you do nothing else use a good after run oil like Hobbico after run oil and don’t be shy with the stuff.. Fill the motor and hold a rag over the openings and fully flush out the engine. Leave no white looking (watered down) oil in the motor..

Also Hotts…

I have a question for you. Have you been to the MFG that makes the Miss Vegas? No!. I have and I suspect you are just merely stating that the cost of living is lower in China.. I agree.. but in all honesty.. they/the factory workers make the necessary amount of money for there cost of living.. Not spending time at the factory one might think they are underpaid… not having spent time at the factory I can understand why you might assume that..

Also.. the way the boat is joined has noting to do with the amount of resin used in lay-up. Adding extra epoxy to the floor of the boat as suggested just makes the boat cleanup a tad nicer and has little to nothing to do with strength of the two halves.. Joining two halves of any GRP lay-up is undoubtedly the hardest part of this or any boats assembly.

KEEP ON ROCKIN

Grimracer

1outlaw

I have talked to James and he has told me the wrong turn fin...New one on the way...As far as the crack and the chip...The chip is tiny and no it didnt hit anything....If you look closely at the pic you will see no scratches of any kind....Its a stress crack and may have been caused by the numerouse 180's it did trying to get the turn fin to work.
As far as the strut its definantly the cause of the water intrusion into the hull....Moving strut hieght to 1/2" below pad pulled the hole in the strut out of the water and no more water intrusion.....

As far as anyone replying to my post i have gotten use to that....

toyotatruckin

the lay-up of the vegas could be better, but if it was it wouldnt be a 300$ boat, also the crack in the sponson is on the factory seam and this is not the first or last vegas to split there.
Epoxy on the floor of the hull adds a little stiffness to the bottom of the hull not the sides also makes for easy clean-up
Air-tool oil is good stuff you could even mix it with other oils for a custom blend and cheaper than after-run,
For the money the vegas is a good running little boat and you can learn alot with it before spending the money on building one

t munn

My Feedback: (2)

The splits on the sponsons can easily be repaired been there done that.
I also have some repairs to the nose piece in front of the tank and under the front of the cowl.

I have tried just CA/,just epoxy ,epoxy and cloth but the recipe below has worked best for me.

Rough the area up with 100 grit sandpaper.Go 1/4" in each side of the crack.
Apply thick CA then a piece of thin fiberglass cloth to the area.
Go back over with thin or thick CA after the first application has hardened.
Do one sponson at a time so you can place the hull in a position that will alow the c/a not to flow off.

You can pretty it up with bondo, sanding and paint if you want but I did not and my repairs are holding up very well so far.

Hope this helps.

This is my second nitro boat and for 250.00 I think they are great and have aprox 6 gallons on mine.
I have had a few problems but overall they are a good value for $$

Terry

RedBullVegas

Grim,

My knowledge of factory work on boats is vague at best. I did however find a way to epoxy and strengthen the inside of the sponson. I will post some pics of my boat later today when I get all the hardware back in and on the boat.

outlaw1,

Please do not take my post as an attack, I was merely observing the photos given and noticed the chip.

To everyone: we are all here to learn and make this boat faster. Atleast that is what attracted my attention to this thread.

Good luck and happy boating.

RedBullVegas

Wow looks like I get to double post today. This morning, I promised some pics of the completed Vegas. Here she is minus all the T.L. Hardware. Not quite done with the inside.