jdmnick

Well i figured it was time but im going to start working on building a fiber glass hull im making a mold of this boat i have right now i dont know how this hull will work out i have a feeling though if it gets up there in speed it may be unstable because its such a shallow V-bottom but this hull my dad put together and when he had it running it had like a .15 in it and he said all it did was just putt around nothing fast but i figure i might as well try to build it in a fiberglass version put better running gear and a .21 engine or something. i plan on putting running gear on it like what you put on riggers. Im new to this hole thing so its interesting here is the hull im going to use for the mold.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Why not just buy the fiberglass version? It's an old Dumas hull that you have there. In the end it would be a lot cheaper to buy one than try to make a mold then try to make one yourself from it.
Option two is to buy a hull that will handle a .21 and handle much better.

jdmnick

yea your probly right i didnt realy know dumas made this hull my dad assembled it when he was around 18yrs old. so i realy didnt know it was a dumas hull but my i have alot of the stuff in the garage to make a fiber glass hull. also this summer im going to be dealing with molds and stuff so i figure i would learn at least a lil bit how to do it.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Buy, Buy, Buy! Does anyone step out and build anymore? That's BUILD not assemble. Jdmnick, I applaud you for going your own way to create something with your own hands rather than buying stuff and bolting it together. With ARF airplanes and plastic RTR toy boats I see a demise in the creative abilities of modelers to the point that they won't be able to trim, diagnose or fix anything. We'll let some 3rd world country do that for us.

jdmnick

one of these days once im able to find carbon fiber i would like to build a carbon fiber boat instead of fiberglass like a CF tunnel hull for racing or something but idk yet and i have a feeling that would be rediculus expensive to build a hull with that stuff but i think it would be fun everyone is out to buy stuff i like projects im done on building cars ive only had on project car and it was a 95 eclipse non turbo and i built the block my self and had it set up for turbo and the ecu took a dump on me so i said screw it and bought a rsx type s and i figure it was time to get back into boats and now i wanna build something ive got the building bug again so its time to build a rc boat now. but for anybody who is interested ill keep everyone posted on how the boat goes and how i make my mold and stuff!

jdmnick

well ive started on making the mold tonight later on ill post some pictures of the molds ive made

jdmnick

i wish i knew how to put the pictures in those smaller boxes that you can click on but if anyone knows how tell me! anyways im takeing the wire mesh stuff and trying to make a some what form of the hull and i will set like seran wrap or something down in it and im going to go back and put some bondo-glass short strand fiberglass filler for the mold and i will spray like a light adhesive to the bottom of the boat and put suran wrap on it and lay it down in the mold until it dryes thin pull the hull out and the seran wrap will pill off the bondo once it has cured if the mold has any imperfections like little bumps ill go through fill it more of bondo glass sand it down till its nice and smooth.
once im done with that im going to have to go through and think how to make a hull from there i can either lay some new seran wrap down lay the fiberglass cloth down ontop of that or come up with a new plan im doing this all as i go sit there and think on how to do this and hope it works more of a trial and error deal so far all trial and no error!!!

Hydro Guy

NO NO NO! UR DOIN IT ALL WRONG! FORGET THE SERAN WRAP AND WIRE MESH IDEA! OKAY THIS IS HOW U DO IT......

1. SAND UR HULL SMOOTH
2. SPRAY THE HULL WITH HIGH GLOSS PAINT
3. PLACE UR HULL IN A BOX
4. SPRAY THE HULL WITH PARTING COMPOUND
5. FILL THE BOX WITH THE HULL IN IT WITH LIQUID PLASTIC, OR LIQUID RUBBER (OR OTHER HARDENING COMPOUNDS) AND LET IT DRY- THIS WILL BE UR MOLD
6. TAKE UR NEW MOLD OUT OF THE BOX AFTER IT IS DONE CURING
7. CUT UR MOLD IN HALF AND REMOVE UR HULL
8. THERE SHOULD BE A PERFECT INDENT OF UR HULL, IF SO, UR MOLD IS DONE!

GOOD LUCK WITH UR PROJECT!!!!!!!!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

to get the thumbnail shots,, instead of using the image button above, use the "Reply" button on the previous posting. That will take you to an advanced creen where you can post your reply and at the bottom you'll find a place to upload images from your computers drive or disc.

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

amen John, Too many RTF/ARF's

KingCobra2

Or you could just rub VASOLINE all over the hull (smooth and thin) Lay your 'wet' fiber glass cloth over the hull. after it hardens lift the boat out of your mold. Then repeat for the top of your boat >then you will have both halves. A frienf of mine does this all the time. Vasoline is a perfect release agent. Rinse in hot water then soap and warm water. Good luck to ya -----------) Scott

Quicksilver1

well, how ever you make the hull, when ur done come see me, I heard you were looking into jet drives. Seems like a decent application. I tell you how to set it up besides the actual motors(if nitro).

good luck I've never made a plug before.........perhaps I should start. On a scale of 1-10 in fiberglass ability how hard is it to make a mold?

jdmnick

sorry i didnt post yesterday my computer crashed so im having to use my dad's computer but on a scale of 1-10 i would say a 5 or so anyone can do it as long as they take the time and for the mesh thing i just chucked it in the trash and tryed to just aply fiberglass and use the seran wrap as a way to seperate the hull from the mold i made it came out ruff so now im going to go through and aply a very thin layer of the bondo glass over it into all the seams and stuff and come back thru and sand it down real smooth and then figure out what to use as a release agent. but even though im doing this very diffrently i just figured id give it a try, i use some spray adhesive and sprayed it on the hull layed the seran wrap down on it till it was smooth and the mixed up the bondo glass now today im going to smoothen up the mold but later tonight i will post on how it went! but im still thinking either just using a prop or using a jet drive im still debating!

f16man

CHECK OUT www.hobbycast.net THEY HAVE SILICON MOLD CASTING STUFF AND EVEN A VIDEO ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR MOLD

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Where do they show you how to do the lay up of the glass cloth on the mold? This looks very interesting

f16man

THEY ARE JUST SHOWING A POUR TYPE BUT LAYING FIBERGLASS WOULD BE EASY, ALSO GLASSING IN STRINGERS AND FRAMES AFTER THE BASIC HULL WAS LAID UP. SEVERAL LAYERS OF CLOTH AND EPOXY RESIN IN THE MOLD AND MAYBE SOME CARBON FIBER IN THE HIGH STRESS AREAS, KINDA LOOKS LIKE FUN HUH. YOU COULD EVEN GET REAL BRAVE AND MAKE YOUR OWN PLUG FROM HIGH DENSITY FOAM, COAT IT WITH SEVERAL LAYERS OF LATEX PAINT AND SAND REAL SMOOTH AND POUR YOUR MOLD.

ByronRC

My Feedback: (2)

Would you have to coat the latex with a release after it's dry and ready for a glass lay up? On the site what product would you use for the mold?[8D]

Hydro Guy

YES, A SPRAY RELEASE AGENT WOULD BE SMART, THE EPOXY RESIN PROBABLY WOULD NOT STIK TO THE LATEX OR SILICON MOLD BUT IT'S GOOD INSURANCE. MOST ALL OF MY MOLD MAKING WAS DONE WITH FIBERGLASS AND FOR LONG LIFE OF THE MOLD I WOULD USE THAT METHOD, BUT I THOUGHT THE SIMPLE POUR TYPE MOLD MAY WORK WELL. THE NEXT PART IS TO THINK OUT THE STRINGERS , TRANSOM AND FRAMES WHILE THE HULL IS STILL IN THE MOLD. GLASS THEM IN BEFORE REMOVING THE HULL TO KEEP EVERYTHING STRAIGHT.

f16man

SORRY THE ABOVE WAS WAS NOT HYDRO GUY I WAS TO BUSY TYPING TO NOTICE MY SON WAS LOGGED ON,AND THAT TAKES ALL MY CONSENTRATION,,,, YOU KNOW THE HUNT AND PECK METHOD HE HE. THANKS GLENN.

f16man

I WOULD USE THE HOBBY MOLD 160 BECAUSE IT IS A STIFFER RUBBER AND WOULD HOLD ITS SHAPE BETTER. WORK ON A GOOD FLAT SURFACE AND LEAVE THE MOLD IN THE BOX YOU BUILD TO KEEP IT MORE RIDGED.

f16man

THIS STUFF WOULD BE GREAT FOR MAKING CANOPIES AND ALL KINDS OF TRICK PARTS, MAKE THE PLUGS FROM SOFT MATERIALS LIKE DENSE FOAM, BALSA, ECT. WHEN USING FOAM, COAT THE PLUG WITH THIN SHEET ROCK MUD AND SAND SMOOTH IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE YOU CAN USE MORE MUD AND FIX IT EASY, WHEN YOUR HAPPY WITH THE PART PAINT WITH SEVERAL COATS OF SHEETROCK PRIMER AND THEN SOME REGULAR HIGH GLOSS LATEX PAINT , I HAVE SEEN SPRAY LATEX AT THE STORES LIKE HOME DEPOT ECT. THEN MAKE YOUR MOLD FROM YOUR CUSTOM PLUG. THIS WORKED GOOD FOR ME BUT I'M SURE SOME OF THE SCRATCH BUILDERS IN HERE MAY HAVE SOME GOOD ADVICE ON MOLD MAKING ALSO.

Hydro Guy

if u want carbon fiber for a hull try: www.acsales.com

Thin water

i am making a mold of a 54 " deep V for a friend from his 54" hull he is modifying to suite him. I have several full size boat molds as well as a kayak mold. I have made several molds and will be making it like a production boat mold. All of this so my friend can have his boat in vacuum bagged carbon fiber and or kevlar. First fix any and all dents scratches and holes. Make the hull perfect with no blemishes. Paint to a very high gloss. Make a flange all the way around (to put vaccum bag on later) . Coat it well with mold release wax, once a day for three days, buffing each day. Spray with PVA mold release. Spray on a thick layer of tooling gel coat. Lay up many layers of fine fiberglass mat followed by layers of mat and core mat until thick. Add plywood supports then pop plug out.

Make the new boat much the same way but after the epoxy and carbon are laid up apply peel ply, breather bag and vacuum bag, put in oven and pull vacuum. Let it cook for 10 hours and you have a carbon boat! The engine will weigh more than the boat.

Good luck with your project, post pictures.

JIM

Thin water

I went to the page linked above using the silicone putty stuff. It would flex a lot and if not supported in a good box it would mess up the shape of the boat. It is made for pour casting, not layup. Don't use any of that silicone spray on anything you ever want to fiberglass, gel coat or paint unless you like fish eye and delamination. Proper mold release wax is only $5.00 or less for a big can and PVA is the proper thing to use on fiberglass molds over the wax for a perfect finish. Chemlease makes some great semi-permanant mold releases also. Look up this topic on www.Boatdesign.net and you will find a bunch of info on mold making.

I have my plug about ready to make the mold from. I will post pictures of the mold making process as I go.

JIM